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    #16
    Originally posted by -SUPREME- View Post
    Hey bud I tried my best to work with you on a reasonable price.. We both knew it was a little rough and that's why I didn't try to retire on the sale.. Most D-BAGS would Rape n Pillage!! "It's an E30 BRAH" She had NO rot and very very minimal rust.. Most of the things needing attention were obvious and we discussed them. For $1350 I wanted to give you plenty of room for parts n such.. Sorry If you're at all upset.. My $2500 IX has turned into $5500-6000 Quickly! Not to mention the SHOCK when I bought 2 front axels n control arms ouch!! Most of us on here most definitely feel your pain homie... Hope you get to enjoy her soon! ;)

    BMW=BrokeMyWallet! hahaha JK

    Definitely not upset man I'm actually excited to get her on the road i waffleswaffleswaffleswafflesin love the car and im very satisfied with the price you gave me... :)

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      #17
      Originally posted by z6ne View Post
      dude everytime I see it I watch it for like atleast a minute

      lol its ok i do to my man

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        #18
        Originally posted by noid View Post
        If it makes you feel better, over the winter this is what I did:

        Falken 912 tires x 4
        Treehouse racing control arm bushings
        New control arms x2 (lemforder)
        New tie-rods
        Rebuilt injectors (flow matched/bench tested)
        Valve adjustment
        Timing belt/waterpump/tensioner
        Alternator/power steering/AC belts
        Black leather interior
        Re-installed stock radio
        Removed aftermarket alarm
        Antenna gourmet
        Euro smileys
        Bilstein HD shocks (car has factory m-tech springs that I retained)
        173 ECU
        New odo gears
        Derlin shifter carrier bushings
        AKG DSSR
        Both Transmission seals
        Engine mounts
        Transmission mounts
        Strut mounts front and back
        Glove box handle/lock
        Exhaust hangers middle and back
        Catback gasket x2 + header to midpipe gasket
        CV boots inner and outer
        OEM Subframe bushings
        OEM Trailing arm bushings
        Shifter joint
        OEM Differential mount
        OEM Diff Gasket
        Sway bar links front and back
        Oil filter housing plug (revised design from the dealer)
        T-fitting for the spray nozzles
        New wipers
        Shifter boots (the actual boot and the rubber boot below it)
        Thermostat
        Radiator
        Window regulator
        Door seal
        Trail light seal
        Guibo
        CSB
        New fluids front to back (diff, transmission, engine, coolant, etc).
        Time-sert kit for the oil drain plug
        Turn signal stalk
        Rear sway bar links
        Spark plugs (NGK)
        Reverse light switch
        Fuel pump
        Fuel filter
        Distributor cap
        Distributor rotor
        Ignition wires
        Valve cover vent hose
        Coolant hose (from thermostat housing to throttle body)
        Tool kit for the trunk
        AFM
        O2 sensor
        Gas funnel rubber surround
        New group 49 battery (and proper venting)
        All new bulbs all around
        Coolant to heatercore outlet hose
        I am sure I am forgetting some stuff, the above is all I can recall off the top of my head.
        and yet we all flame when we see $20k+ e30s for sale.
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          #19
          Originally posted by Rigmaster View Post
          First and foremost, when you get the cat replaced, make DAMN sure you get the OEM cat back from the shop.

          That right there will get you ~$100-150 back on your expense. If you don't mention it, you can be sure that the shop will be more than happy to "take care of it" for you for free.

          There's a guy who posts on here that buys used cats, or you can try www.sellyourcatsdirect.com if you can't find a buyer locally.

          Thank you for that I actually didn't even think about it but hell yes ill be keeping the cat and reselling it

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            #20
            Originally posted by noid View Post
            If it makes you feel better, over the winter this is what I did:

            .
            .
            .
            .
            I am sure I am forgetting some stuff, the above is all I can recall off the top of my head.

            Sounds about right.. i'll be right there with you soon enough lol I got pretty good start going i'm up to about 700 in parts in the first week of ownership :)

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              #21
              A single 2" pipe is too small for an m20b25. You want 2.5".
              Build thread

              Bimmerlabs

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                #22
                :up::up::up::up:
                Originally posted by NeedaE30 View Post
                Definitely not upset man I'm actually excited to get her on the road i waffleswaffleswaffleswafflesin love the car and im very satisfied with the price you gave me... :)
                :up: can't wait to see her all dolled up!!

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                  #23
                  Well I'm happy to say after about 3 weeks of ownership.. the car is finally back in my posession. I am absolutely disappointed in the fact that i had to have shops do these initial repairs.. but $800 later(in labor) and i am happy to say she's driving Wafflesing amazing.. I've never had an e30 with such a quiet running m20.. she feels over all tighter and very smooth after the valve adjustment, cooling system overhaul, timing belt, driveshaft etc were the major repairs i paid for in labor.. overcharged a bit yes but it was done in a somewhat timely manner and it was definitely done right cause my god this is the best running e30 i've ever driven lol

                  When i picked her up from the shop today, her idle was terrible and was nearly stalling nearly stalling. the shop told me i failed inspection for tires, cat leak, and rear shock mounts, no big deal all was planning to replaced anyways.. so once i got the car back home..(after working) i cleaned the following, ICV, throttle body, intake boot, AFM, and fixed a vacuum leak in the little elbow that goes to the throttle body.. and also got rid of the rusty disgusting paper cone ebay air filter and "ghetto" installed an e30 stock airbox. By ghetto i mean its wrapped with electrical tape until i can get 3 more little metal clips.. the car LOVES the stock air box.. she idles right at 600-750 no jumping, wandering idle, no more loss of power during acceleration i am loving it..

                  at about 2 AM i called it quits for the day after working 9 hours then jumping straight into the car, I also did the following, Installed the interior door handle trim, fixed drivers side inner door handle, removed drivers side door panel, lubricated all moving metal parts inside the door, fix the tweeter pod cover so it actually stays where it should, put all new door panel clips in the door panel, fix the cigarette lighter, fixed passenger side window, mmm tried to remove some nasty old ahesive from an ac schnitzer badge and the 325 badge but had no luck, ill need a heatgun or some paint thinner to get that nasty shit off of there ugh


                  next on the list
                  catalytic converter, i think a single in/out 2" cat will be fine i don't see why it would hinder performance whatsoever?? any opinions?
                  tires
                  rear shock mounts
                  affix the ends of the front valance some how can anyone suggest anything???
                  registration and inspection
                  install new side markers
                  clear all the water drains in the car
                  fix the rust
                  fix the front seats or buy new ones
                  Fix the gauge cluster and align it properly and get the check engine light working again
                  detail the hell out of the car because it needs it badly...BADLY!!!! in and out
                  paint valve cover and intake manifold
                  Fix the interior light brackets/frames i hope they are replaceable..
                  and sooooooo much more


                  expensive but god damn i miss owning an e30 :)

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by NeedaE30 View Post
                    i think a single in/out 2" cat will be fine i don't see why it would hinder performance whatsoever?? any opinions?
                    Yes: trying to second guess a room full of German engineers is usually not a good idea.
                    Originally posted by kronus
                    would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by NeedaE30 View Post
                      affix the ends of the front valance some how can anyone suggest anything???

                      More pictures = better answers


                      But I know my valence is attached to the fender with a small lag bolt with a 8mm head. Go to HF and get one of those boxes of bolts or boxes of thick screws, and go crazy! Might not be "oem" quality but it's solid for that kind of stuff, and much better than zip ties

                      Here's what I'm talking about it if you can see. That's the pass side looking from the front of the car, I had pulled the bumper mount to the side (early bumpers) to show how wonderfully zip tied it was there. You can see the 8mm bolt in the middle of the picture which holds the valnce to the fender

                      Last edited by saturnv7890; 06-19-2013, 06:27 AM.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by agent View Post
                        Yes: trying to second guess a room full of German engineers is usually not a good idea.
                        on my first e30 i had a y pipe made that went from the stock dual pipes to a single 2" pipe all the way to the tail pipe.. and it ran perfectly and sounded amazing with zero loss of power.. with this car im keeping the dual exhaust its just going to have a slight bottle neck going from dual pipes into a single 2" cat then out of the single 2" cat and back into the dual pipes.. less restriction than my first e30 and will still be mostly dual exhaust, again. i don't see how it could cause any issues



                        Originally posted by saturnv7890 View Post
                        More pictures = better answers


                        But I know my valence is attached to the fender with a small lag bolt with a 8mm head. Go to HF and get one of those boxes of bolts or boxes of thick screws, and go crazy! Might not be "oem" quality but it's solid for that kind of stuff, and much better than zip ties

                        Here's what I'm talking about it if you can see. That's the pass side looking from the front of the car, I had pulled the bumper mount to the side (early bumpers) to show how wonderfully zip tied it was there. You can see the 8mm bolt in the middle of the picture which holds the valnce to the fender

                        I will try to get pics tomorrow... im talking about the very ends of the valence closest to the fender/tire there literallty is nothing to hold it in place at the moment i have it duct taped from the inside so it doesn't hang down while im driving i have not had the time to fix it yet because i want to figure out the proper way to permanently fix it and i've been much more worried about the mechanical aspects of the car so far
                        Last edited by NeedaE30; 06-19-2013, 11:19 PM.

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                          #27
                          single 2" is way too small for an M20B25!!!

                          the *stock* pipes are dual 1 7/8.

                          you can't have "mostly" dual exhaust. even worse, you're making the cat smaller, which is already a restriction. You'd be way better off leaving all the exhaust stock.
                          Build thread

                          Bimmerlabs

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by NeedaE30 View Post
                            I will try to get pics tomorrow... im talking about the very ends of the valence closest to the fender/tire there literallty is nothing to hold it in place at the moment i have it duct taped from the inside so it doesn't hang down while im driving i have not had the time to fix it yet because i want to figure out the proper way to permanently fix it and i've been much more worried about the mechanical aspects of the car so far
                            Here is another shot of that bolt/screw, sounds like you're missing that.

                            And if you've got plastic bumpers, that little plastic slide piece also does a little bit to help support the valence on the side there.

                            If you've got aluminum bumpers, be sure you've got screws holding the plastic cover on.

                            But whether it's an early or late model, the small lag bolt (painted white here) is always on the end of the valence holding it to the fender


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                              #29
                              Originally posted by NeedaE30 View Post
                              on my first e30 i had a y pipe made that went from the stock dual pipes to a single 2" pipe all the way to the tail pipe.. and it ran perfectly and sounded amazing with zero loss of power..
                              Butt dyno doesn't count.

                              Originally posted by nando View Post
                              single 2" is way too small for an M20B25!!!

                              the *stock* pipes are dual 1 7/8.

                              you can't have "mostly" dual exhaust. even worse, you're making the cat smaller, which is already a restriction. You'd be way better off leaving all the exhaust stock.
                              QFT.


                              Dual 1⅞ = 3¾. A single 2" is roughly *half* the 3¾ used by the stock system. How can that not be more restrictive?

                              Don't get me wrong... I think it's awesome you're putting some money, time and effort into an E30. I'd bet nando does too. It boils down to talking you out of making a poor choice that could be easily corrected.
                              Originally posted by kronus
                              would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Single 2" = 3.14 sq in

                                Two 1.75" = 4.81 sq in



                                and single 2.5 = 4.9 sq in

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