Headbolts torqued to EXTREME amount (video)

[jhaurimn]

OP, i apologize on behalf of the PO who seems to have really screwed you...

[Thizzelle]

Buy a new engine

[Roysneon]

Is it your car or a customers car?

[Simple_Smith]

fuck the bullshit. call MM and order a rally engine. But seriously, it may be time to consider just picking up a new engine and rebuilding it. You spend quite a bit more up front, but it will be worth it in the long run if you intend on keeping the car

[Dj Buttchug]

updates?

[F34R]

Cross threaded on all of them?? I would say its prolly more than likely non lubed bolts at last install

This^ plus that impact does not sound like it is hitting that hard. Just because the specs say it does not mean it will loosen anything. What size is your tank? Impact with a basic tank or crappy hose will affect the gun.

[Exodus_2pt0]

This^ plus that impact does not sound like it is hitting that hard. Just because the specs say it does not mean it will loosen anything. What size is your tank? Impact with a basic tank or crappy hose will affect the gun.

I have currently only removed 5 bolts with the help of a 5ft cheater pole.

A 5 foot cheater pipe with a human behind it is going to put out more torque than any 1/2 inch impact. No matter the make or model.

Though I do agree, a shitty tank with low CFM will not allow an impact to operate at it's rated capacity. I've got 2 of those Matco branded IR's rated at 1000 ft lbs, but I have seen them perform poorly on small tanks.

[1fastETA]

Put the socket over the bolt and hit it with a hammer a couple of times. That should break it loose. Then use the breaker bar with an long tube on top for more leverage and that should work wunderbar! I'm Mexican, so don't ask how I know.

[delatlanta1281]

fuck the bullshit. call MM and order a rally engine. But seriously, it may be time to consider just picking up a new engine and rebuilding it. You spend quite a bit more up front, but it will be worth it in the long run if you intend on keeping the car

Why? so you can pay way too much for way too little?
just build your own. M20s are everywhere.

[noid]

Update:

Bought a 3/4 impact only to realize that my tank cant handle it. Good news is that I have been able to get all of the bolts somewhat loose with the cheater bar. By "somewhat" I mean that the bolts are unscrewed from the block but are still jammed in the head. I have been able to remove a total of 8 of the 14 bolts. The 6 left are unscrewed from the block, however they continue to be jammed in the head.

Half of the bolts removed look to have some sand/cement looking stuff on them, which is what I suspect is atleast part responsible for jamming them in there.

Even with the bolts unscrewed from the block, they are jammed hard enough in the head where it still takes notable effort to turn them with a big 1/2 breaker bar.

Today I bought a slide hammer with a vise grip attachement similar to this:


Come saturday me and a friend (member here also) will attempt to use this contraption to remove the bolts the rest of the way.

I have attempted to remove the head the way it sits now but it will not budge whatsoever, even after shaking like a mad man it feels like its still bolted down. Even though the bolts are unscrewed, I feel as though the little knubs that stick past the bottom of the head may be preventing me from removing the head (by essentially requiring me to have to lift straight up rather then side to side). Hence the requirement for the slidehammer vice grips.

I have ordered professional grade left handed drill bits from fastenal so I can remove the broken bolt when (and if) I get the head removed.

Lets all hope the headgasket isn't laced with the same crap the bolts are.

[Andy.B]

Half of the bolts removed look to have some sand/cement looking stuff on them, which is what I suspect is atleast part responsible for jamming them in there.

I wonder if it's 'bars leak', or some other type of head gasket in a bottle product.

[Exodus_2pt0]

Sounds like corrosion, you should post a picture of a removed head bolt with the crap on it.

Also, keep updating. This is the most interesting thread I've seen on here in a while.

[F34R]

I feel for you man, I could not imagine this happening ever. With all the heads I have redone, none of them had an issue removing the bolts. Sometimes the threads hangup in the bolt holes in the head.

Wish you luck and I also would like to see a detailed picture if the bolts when you get it free.

[noid]

Update:

This is the crap I was talking about before:



The slidehammer vice grips worked WONDERS, it not only pulled out one of the jammed bolts but on the second bolt it popped the head loose from the block.

Leaving me this:




Yay for 885 head:



Two bolts in total broke off in the block:

Top right in the picture:


The other one can almost be seen in the 2nd picture above.

Only one of the bolts was sticking out past the block surface; this was however useless because they are jammed in there as hard as the whole bolt was, so drilling them out was is only option.

Currently I am at the stage of drilling them out, the Milwaukie cobalt drill bit set from home depot (most expensive) was not able to drill out the bolt past 7/32nd's. This is what happened to the 1/4:



This week I will be ordering 1/4 and 5/16 left handed drill bits from fastenal, I will ask them for their strongest bits.

This is where I left it for today:




This is the method I used to catch the shavings (magnets):



At this point I am not sure I will be able to save the threads before being able to drill out the rest of the studs. Not sure if I should consider a time sert solution or a new block if that happens. Anyone running time-serts for headbolts?

[noid]

Long overdue update:

I tried a Time-sert 1090 headbolt repair kit. Public service announcement to everyone: the 1090 kit will NOT work with an E30, the kit can not countersink the hole, the existing bolt hole is not deep enough to get to the second step on the headbolt kit. The drill bit bottoms out right where the second step should start. Without this second step the insert will not be able to go in the hole because the rim of the insert is wider then the first step of the drill. If you try to keep pushing and drilling deeper than the existing hole then you will drill into the coolant chamber.

I ended up returning the time-sert kit and getting myself a whole new engine that I found locally out of an 89 auto 190km vert that was crashed. I ended up getting the whole engine for cheaper then the cost of the time sert kit.

I had already received my old head back from the machinist and already had an OEM headgasket kit so I decided to swap heads and redo all of the seals/gaskets before putting the engine back in.

Being that the new engine was from an auto and an 89; I needed to swap a few things before I could use it. Notably the waterpump, thermostat housing, pilot bearing, oil sensor, and clutch assembly. I also did a fresh timing belt change, swapped alternators, all new seals from my kit and a valve adjustment.

Ended up pulling and putting the engine back in from the side in a two car garage by myself:

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=304326