Headbolts torqued to EXTREME amount (video)

[noid]

Today I went to pull the head off to do the headgasket and of all things that would be give trouble it was the headbolts. These 17mm headbolts are torqued like crazy.

My 550ft/lb 1/2 impact at 120psi and 3/8 hosing (with no quick connects) was not able to budge these bolts. Two of my 1/2 breaker bars started bending, and I have currently only removed 5 bolts with the help of a 5ft cheater pole.

This same impact was able to remove both rear axle nuts WITH locking plates still on.

Of the 5 headbolts that I have removed, 1 snapped mid way down the last inch of the treads. Worst yet the bolts aren't breaking free; they are tough as nails to turn the whole way out.

Thinking that there was possibly red loctite that had been used at some point I tried heat with no avail, and from what I can see the bolts do not have loctite on them.

How is this even possible?

Proof video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0riaYeAyOw&feature=youtu.be

[Raxe]

Maybe they're seized? See it happen all the time with wheel bolts, people think they were torqued to 4234lbs but really they're just rusted in.

[Dj Buttchug]

first off,When you just sit there and hold the impact gun on you dont get its full potential of torque.

Using a breaker bar here is probably the best.

[noid]

first off,When you just sit there and hold the impact gun on you dont get its full potential of torque.

Using a breaker bar here is probably the best.

I have tried all variations of use including quick bursts, long bursts and everything in between.

My 5ft cheater breaker bar is barely enough, and my 1/2 breakerbars with ratchet feature have destroyed their internal ratcheting teeth.

[Scallywagon]

first off,When you just sit there and hold the impact gun on you dont get its full potential of torque.

Using a breaker bar here is probably the best.

I very often see a gun not able to put the break-free torque down on a seized bolt that I can using a lever.

Get the jack handle out.

[Exodus_2pt0]

That is not right.

Cross threaded, or the last person who was in there cleaned the threads in the block and failed to put some oil on the bolt threads.

Good luck.

[mrsleeve]

That is not right.

Cross threaded, or the last person who was in there cleaned the threads in the block and failed to put some oil on the bolt threads.

Good luck.

Cross threaded on all of them?? I would say its prolly more than likely non lubed bolts at last install

[noid]

The real question is; how the hell will I be able to move the part of the bolt that broke off in the block now, if its jammed in there as tight as the bolts are no dinky extractor will be able to get it out.

[Perry Wilson]

The real question is; how the hell will I be able to move the part of the bolt that broke off in the block now, if its jammed in there as tight as the bolts are no dinky extractor will be able to get it out.

Drill and tap

[Wschnitz]

Drill and tap

If they are torqued down as bad as OP says, drill and tap wont get them out. OP once you get all of them off, just heat that remaining broken bolt until its really hot, then get some heavy duty vice grips or some other form of gripping device that will allow you to put some mega pressure on it, then try getting it off.

You can always try pounding a smaller socket onto the bolt too.

[noid]

If they are torqued down as bad as OP says, drill and tap wont get them out. OP once you get all of them off, just heat that remaining broken bolt until its really hot, then get some heavy duty vice grips or some other form of gripping device that will allow you to put some mega pressure on it, then try getting it off.

You can always try pounding a smaller socket onto the bolt too.

I'm afraid that there will be no protruding stud once the head is off, the remaining peice will be sunk in there.

[mrsleeve]

If they are torqued down as bad as OP says, drill and tap wont get them out. OP once you get all of them off, just heat that remaining broken bolt until its really hot, then get some heavy duty vice grips or some other form of gripping device that will allow you to put some mega pressure on it, then try getting it off.

You can always try pounding a smaller socket onto the bolt too.

No if there is any part left above the deck of the block you WELD a nut on top of that and use a correct socket on it

[TobyB]

I have a different scenario- they epoxied the threads, and the TTY head bolts have enough
spring to them that they defeat the rattle gun.
Just like a torque stick works- a rattle gun only moves a few degrees a whack, and
the 'spring' of it is designed to deflect a set amount at a set torque.

Pretty clever, really.

Unlike epoxying head bolts.

They won't gall or anything like stainless does on itself, since the bolt's a
high tensile steel and the block's a casting of very different composition.

Sounds like a case of 'PO did me a REAL favor here'.

t

[Wschnitz]

No if there is any part left above the deck of the block you WELD a nut on top of that and use a correct socket on it

Oh duh why didnt i think of that...

[gtdragon980]

Although, worst case scenario if that bolt is not protruding above the block, you will have to Helicoil that bitch. It will be a bitch.