e30 just died in the middle of the street

[Xecure]

This happened once 2 weeks ago (bought the car about 4 weeks ago). I managed to pull over and restart the engine.

Happened again today and am not able to restart the engine. A friendly stranger helped me pop open the hood and check a few things out. The engine cranks but doesn't start. We saw that the ignition coil sparks but there is no spark in the distributor.

I'm pretty new to DIY but please advise as to what else I should be looking out for to figure out what actually needs replacing.

[IRON-E]

This happened once 2 weeks ago (bought the car about 4 weeks ago). I managed to pull over and restart the engine.

Happened again today and am not able to restart the engine. A friendly stranger helped me pop open the hood and check a few things out. The engine cranks but doesn't start. We saw that the ignition coil sparks but there is no spark in the distributor.

I'm pretty new to DIY but please advise as to what else I should be looking out for to figure out what actually needs replacing.

Sound like your crank position sensor.

[Xecure]

Sound like your crank position sensor.

Is there anyway to check without actually buying the part?

[IRON-E]

Is there anyway to check without actually buying the part?

I know there's a way to check for resistance, I just usually go to the junkyard, pocket a few and switch it out. Happened to me 4-5 times.

[BobombETA]

Sound like your crank position sensor.

I think you're dead on here. This happened to me in my 528e and it was the crank position sensor.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...aft-Sensor.htm

"On some E30 cars (1984–1987) 325e/s models, there are two sensors that read the toothed crankshaft wheel. When replacing these, double-check that you don’t accidentally switch the two sensor plugs. They should be color-coded to match their receptacle plugs"

[nando]

if the CPS is bad the coil wouldn't be firing.

[IceWhite]

if the CPS is bad the coil wouldn't be firing.

Next items to check would be the Distributor Cap middle pin and other pins inside, as well as the rotor.

Btw, how did you test the coil?

[heatmakerz]

There are a few things it could be. CPS, fuel pump and filter, etc. Have you checked fuel pressure. For the CPS, you could check resistance but I forgot what the numbers should be. A Bentley manual will list the specifics. Also, check for vac leaks.

[nrubenstein]

Have you checked the relays? They pop out and should be zipped in place.

[StereoInstaller1]

Main Relay is way more likely than CPS.

There are procedures for testing a CPS in the Bentley, but your issue is really common.

I can walk you through a test, but more importantly, you can do a pretty solid diagnosis by watching the instrument clust at exactly the point that the car dies.

First, right now, go out and turn your key to the "bulb check" mode (key "ON" but not running) and make absolutely sure your "Check Engine" light works.

Lets be clear, I am NOT referring to the "CHECK" light between the gauges, but the "service soon" or whatever on the far left.

Once you are sure it works, fire up the motor and it should go out.

Now, go drive, and await the fail. When it fails, watch the cluster.

If the main relay is bad, when your engine dies there will be no "check engine" light.

If it dies and there is a check engine light, it is very likely the CPS.

So: check, drive, fail, check...or just spend $17 on a new relay, which you likely need to replace from age alone.

GL!
Luke

[dnguyen1963]

The problem is that OP can't drive the car...It doesn't start.

[Exodus_2pt0]

Spark at coil but not after the distributor huh?

When the engine turns does it vary in cranking speed (indication of compression)

You just bought the car, did you check the timing belt or have documentation of it being done?

[Xecure]

Main Relay is way more likely than CPS.

There are procedures for testing a CPS in the Bentley, but your issue is really common.

I can walk you through a test, but more importantly, you can do a pretty solid diagnosis by watching the instrument clust at exactly the point that the car dies.

First, right now, go out and turn your key to the "bulb check" mode (key "ON" but not running) and make absolutely sure your "Check Engine" light works.

Lets be clear, I am NOT referring to the "CHECK" light between the gauges, but the "service soon" or whatever on the far left.

Once you are sure it works, fire up the motor and it should go out.

Now, go drive, and await the fail. When it fails, watch the cluster.

If the main relay is bad, when your engine dies there will be no "check engine" light.

If it dies and there is a check engine light, it is very likely the CPS.

So: check, drive, fail, check...or just spend $17 on a new relay, which you likely need to replace from age alone.

GL!
Luke

I appreciate all the info but the car won't start :(

The problem is that OP can't drive the car...It doesn't start.

Thank you

Spark at coil but not after the distributor huh?

When the engine turns does it vary in cranking speed (indication of compression)

You just bought the car, did you check the timing belt or have documentation of it being done?

Sounded pretty consistent to me. But the stranger who helped me out also made a comment about my compression. Said it sounded a little weak.

No idea when the timing belt was done. I'm planning on doing it this weekend.

[Benjamin_Button]

You can check CPS with a multi meter. This exact same issue happened to me. Swap out the relays and it should fire right up.

[Exodus_2pt0]

Sounded pretty consistent to me. But the stranger who helped me out also made a comment about my compression. Said it sounded a little weak.

No idea when the timing belt was done. I'm planning on doing it this weekend.

If the speed is constant when cranking that is a bad indication. When the belt snaps, most likely at least one valve is bent on each cylinder. This causes you to lose all compression.

Pull the oil cap off, and look so see if the camshaft rotates while someone cranks the engine over.

If it doesn't, you will need a new head.