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    e30 just died in the middle of the street

    This happened once 2 weeks ago (bought the car about 4 weeks ago). I managed to pull over and restart the engine.

    Happened again today and am not able to restart the engine. A friendly stranger helped me pop open the hood and check a few things out. The engine cranks but doesn't start. We saw that the ignition coil sparks but there is no spark in the distributor.

    I'm pretty new to DIY but please advise as to what else I should be looking out for to figure out what actually needs replacing.

    #2
    Originally posted by Xecure View Post
    This happened once 2 weeks ago (bought the car about 4 weeks ago). I managed to pull over and restart the engine.

    Happened again today and am not able to restart the engine. A friendly stranger helped me pop open the hood and check a few things out. The engine cranks but doesn't start. We saw that the ignition coil sparks but there is no spark in the distributor.

    I'm pretty new to DIY but please advise as to what else I should be looking out for to figure out what actually needs replacing.
    Sound like your crank position sensor.
    @IRON-E30 aka Edwin:D

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      #3
      Originally posted by IRON-E View Post
      Sound like your crank position sensor.
      Is there anyway to check without actually buying the part?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Xecure View Post
        Is there anyway to check without actually buying the part?
        I know there's a way to check for resistance, I just usually go to the junkyard, pocket a few and switch it out. Happened to me 4-5 times.
        @IRON-E30 aka Edwin:D

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          #5
          Originally posted by IRON-E View Post
          Sound like your crank position sensor.
          I think you're dead on here. This happened to me in my 528e and it was the crank position sensor.



          "On some E30 cars (1984–1987) 325e/s models, there are two sensors that read the toothed crankshaft wheel. When replacing these, double-check that you don’t accidentally switch the two sensor plugs. They should be color-coded to match their receptacle plugs"
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          Current: 99 M3
          Past: 84 325e, 84 528e

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            #6
            if the CPS is bad the coil wouldn't be firing.
            Build thread

            Bimmerlabs

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              #7
              Originally posted by nando View Post
              if the CPS is bad the coil wouldn't be firing.
              Next items to check would be the Distributor Cap middle pin and other pins inside, as well as the rotor.

              Btw, how did you test the coil?
              1990 325i
              2004 330i Individual 6-speed
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                #8
                There are a few things it could be. CPS, fuel pump and filter, etc. Have you checked fuel pressure. For the CPS, you could check resistance but I forgot what the numbers should be. A Bentley manual will list the specifics. Also, check for vac leaks.

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                  #9
                  Have you checked the relays? They pop out and should be zipped in place.
                  2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
                  2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
                  1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
                  1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
                  - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
                  1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
                  1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

                  Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
                  Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

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                    #10
                    Main Relay is way more likely than CPS.

                    There are procedures for testing a CPS in the Bentley, but your issue is really common.

                    I can walk you through a test, but more importantly, you can do a pretty solid diagnosis by watching the instrument clust at exactly the point that the car dies.

                    First, right now, go out and turn your key to the "bulb check" mode (key "ON" but not running) and make absolutely sure your "Check Engine" light works.

                    Lets be clear, I am NOT referring to the "CHECK" light between the gauges, but the "service soon" or whatever on the far left.

                    Once you are sure it works, fire up the motor and it should go out.

                    Now, go drive, and await the fail. When it fails, watch the cluster.

                    If the main relay is bad, when your engine dies there will be no "check engine" light.

                    If it dies and there is a check engine light, it is very likely the CPS.

                    So: check, drive, fail, check...or just spend $17 on a new relay, which you likely need to replace from age alone.

                    GL!
                    Luke

                    Closing SOON!
                    "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                    Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                    Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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                      #11
                      The problem is that OP can't drive the car...It doesn't start.

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                        #12
                        Spark at coil but not after the distributor huh?

                        When the engine turns does it vary in cranking speed (indication of compression)

                        You just bought the car, did you check the timing belt or have documentation of it being done?
                        No E30 Club
                        Originally posted by MrBurgundy
                        Anyways, mustangs are gay and mini vans are faster than your car, you just have to deal with that.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
                          Main Relay is way more likely than CPS.

                          There are procedures for testing a CPS in the Bentley, but your issue is really common.

                          I can walk you through a test, but more importantly, you can do a pretty solid diagnosis by watching the instrument clust at exactly the point that the car dies.

                          First, right now, go out and turn your key to the "bulb check" mode (key "ON" but not running) and make absolutely sure your "Check Engine" light works.

                          Lets be clear, I am NOT referring to the "CHECK" light between the gauges, but the "service soon" or whatever on the far left.

                          Once you are sure it works, fire up the motor and it should go out.

                          Now, go drive, and await the fail. When it fails, watch the cluster.

                          If the main relay is bad, when your engine dies there will be no "check engine" light.

                          If it dies and there is a check engine light, it is very likely the CPS.

                          So: check, drive, fail, check...or just spend $17 on a new relay, which you likely need to replace from age alone.

                          GL!
                          Luke
                          I appreciate all the info but the car won't start :(
                          Originally posted by dnguyen1963 View Post
                          The problem is that OP can't drive the car...It doesn't start.
                          Thank you
                          Originally posted by Exodus_2pt0 View Post
                          Spark at coil but not after the distributor huh?

                          When the engine turns does it vary in cranking speed (indication of compression)

                          You just bought the car, did you check the timing belt or have documentation of it being done?
                          Sounded pretty consistent to me. But the stranger who helped me out also made a comment about my compression. Said it sounded a little weak.

                          No idea when the timing belt was done. I'm planning on doing it this weekend.

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                            #14
                            You can check CPS with a multi meter. This exact same issue happened to me. Swap out the relays and it should fire right up.
                            ~Stay Thirsty~

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Xecure View Post
                              Sounded pretty consistent to me. But the stranger who helped me out also made a comment about my compression. Said it sounded a little weak.

                              No idea when the timing belt was done. I'm planning on doing it this weekend.
                              If the speed is constant when cranking that is a bad indication. When the belt snaps, most likely at least one valve is bent on each cylinder. This causes you to lose all compression.

                              Pull the oil cap off, and look so see if the camshaft rotates while someone cranks the engine over.

                              If it doesn't, you will need a new head.
                              No E30 Club
                              Originally posted by MrBurgundy
                              Anyways, mustangs are gay and mini vans are faster than your car, you just have to deal with that.

                              Comment

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