The "Need to fix" list = too many to put in one forum.

[Bimmerfanatik]

NOTE: Please take the time to read this. Even if you can only give advice or insight to one of the issues, it'll be that much closer to smoothing out the bumps.

As most of you know, I'm 2 weeks on the road with my m20 stroker vert. As one should expect, there are still some bugs that need working.

First off, the rear subframe bushings are non-existent. I need to replace them, but don't want to make the ride too stiff. I'm running H&R race w/ bilstein sports, and moving from a 14" tire to a 16". Will urethane be a bit too much, or will it be a welcome upgrade?

Second, there's been an ongoing issue with puffs of smoke coming from my rear right corner. When people are following me on the highway, they see it - definitely out of the RH side, and it was doing it before the swap. It's not exhaust related, as far as I know, so I can't figure out where it's coming from. Seems to happen when I hit bumps on the highway, if that helps. Also seen when I cornered hard left once or twice too.

Next, my fuel cutout issue. Came back again today, but again, not consistent, and can't find the cause. Driving down the highway and the engine cuts out and in again, and eventually stalls out. Turn the key off and on, and it's back to normal for a bit. I can get in the car a few hours later and it won't do it even once. Theories are a bad ecu, bad tps, bad relays, or a possible bad fuel pump. Thoughts?

Lastly, a heck of a rattle when idling, that's now also rattling when accelerating in 1st and sometimes second. Push the clutch in at idle and it goes away. Shift past second or third, it goes away. Doesn't do it all the time when accelerating, but always at idle - might be two seperate issues.

In any case, I can't afford one more day without this car, so I've got to get in there on Wed and fix any and all of these before it leaves me stranded.

[browntown]

Just spitballing here, no idea as to cause, but I'm thinking about whats in that corner of the car.

is your battery in the right rear hand corner? Two things exit e30's in that corner, sunroof drains (not applicable to you), and battery vapor hose. Neither of which should be smoke. So my other idea is that your subframe bushing is disintegrating into smoke, or maybe your hitting the dirt under the car when your suspension is fully under compression. Also worse case its a fuel leak in the filler pipe, or an electrical fire smoke from the gas filler door electric lock.

[parkerbink]

My first thought was the sub bushings on the smoke. Maybe your tire is rubbing?

[der affe]

the rattle could be either your heat shield or the rubber balancer on your drive shaft. at least that's what i think it is on my car..nasty rattle at idle once warmed up, but mine is only at idle. i am missing a bolt on my heat shield and the rubber is badly cracked on my balancer. it's just too hot out for me to fix it right now. the white smoke is prob. tyre rub caused by your sub frame shifting when cornering.
hope this helps.
greg

[Bimmerfanatik]

Just spitballing here, no idea as to cause, but I'm thinking about whats in that corner of the car.

is your battery in the right rear hand corner? Two things exit e30's in that corner, sunroof drains (not applicable to you), and battery vapor hose. Neither of which should be smoke. So my other idea is that your subframe bushing is disintegrating into smoke, or maybe your hitting the dirt under the car when your suspension is fully under compression. Also worse case its a fuel leak in the filler pipe, or an electrical fire smoke from the gas filler door electric lock.

Great theories - the subframe disintegrating and the leaky fuel hose were my first two theories as well :) I'll be under there tomorrow and see if there's anything out of whack. My battery is in the hood, so that's out.

My first thought was the sub bushings on the smoke. Maybe your tire is rubbing?

This was my only other theory - I'm low, but I don't think it's that low. I'll check in there and see if there's rubbed plastic in there tomorrow.

the rattle could be either your heat shield or the rubber balancer on your drive shaft. at least that's what i think it is on my car..nasty rattle at idle once warmed up, but mine is only at idle. i am missing a bolt on my heat shield and the rubber is badly cracked on my balancer. it's just too hot out for me to fix it right now. the white smoke is prob. tyre rub caused by your sub frame shifting when cornering.
hope this helps.
greg

Heat shield would rattle all the time - not just when I first start driving it. And it's also further towards the front of the car. Also new flex disc and csb.

Sounding like it's my poor subframe bushings causing the smoke, possibly even some of the vibration. Gotta get those done...Anyone know if the rear subframe on a coupe is the same? I can rebuild one and swap one with little to no downtime...

[rede30]

I have seen fuel pumps do weird things. When mine was going out it would run ok then all of a sudden run bad till i turned the car off and started it back up. It is an expensive fix to just check to see it its bad but they are very easy to change so you could maby borrow on or grab a spare one and see if that does anything. The connection on the pump can get loose very easily and cut out.

[Bimmerfanatik]

I have seen fuel pumps do weird things. When mine was going out it would run ok then all of a sudden run bad till i turned the car off and started it back up. It is an expensive fix to just check to see it its bad but they are very easy to change so you could maby borrow on or grab a spare one and see if that does anything. The connection on the pump can get loose very easily and cut out.

My euro 85 had both pumps replaced before I bought it, so I'd steal those if need be. Just a pain to get to the euro in the barn...

[erik325i]

Lastly, a heck of a rattle when idling, that's now also rattling when accelerating in 1st and sometimes second. Push the clutch in at idle and it goes away. Shift past second or third, it goes away. Doesn't do it all the time when accelerating, but always at idle - might be two seperate issues.

I think you have a bad clutch throw-out bearing.

-Erik

[MrK]

I second the bad clutch throw-out bearing. Text-book symptoms: Rattling sound that quits once you depress the clutch pedal.

[PУCCKAЯ_e30ka]

i third the clutch throw out bearing

[Dave]

Anyone know if the rear subframe on a coupe is the same? I can rebuild one and swap one with little to no downtime...

Yes, it is.

[Low Level E30]

Highly recommend rubber subframe bushings in your situation. New ones will feel much better than ancient rubber ones, and urethane bushings will probably beat you to death in combo w/ the Race's, Billy Sports (ouch), and 16" wheels --- really depends on your tolerance for pain. Urethane may develop squeaks, too. Go w/ new rubber bushings. Grease 'em up nicely before installing.

Hope that helps!

Also, drop me a line --- I have an idea for your 'vert that you might like... :D

[Julien]

I don't agree with the bad throwout bearing. Mine does it too (2 week old t/o bearing), as well as most of my E30s. As long as your clutch pedal doesn't vibrate when you press it, you should be fine. This also depend on how loud it is.


For the fuel cutting out issue:
the last week before my fuel pump went south i had my rear seat up so i could wiggle it to keep it going at times. My cabrio has one 1 pump, not sure about yours.

I'd 2nd the fuel leak issue.. it's a very common area for leakage.


Best of luck.
Julien

[Bimmerfanatik]

Highly recommend rubber subframe bushings in your situation. New ones will feel much better than ancient rubber ones, and urethane bushings will probably beat you to death in combo w/ the Race's, Billy Sports (ouch), and 16" wheels --- really depends on your tolerance for pain. Urethane may develop squeaks, too. Go w/ new rubber bushings. Grease 'em up nicely before installing.

Hope that helps!

Also, drop me a line --- I have an idea for your 'vert that you might like... :D

I'm pretty sure I'll want the rubber ones too - as this car won't be on the track ever, it should be just fine with rubber ones for another 20 years. What sort of grease should I use for something like that?

See your pm's - love to hear what you have in mind for my vert :)

I don't agree with the bad throwout bearing. Mine does it too (2 week old t/o bearing), as well as most of my E30s. As long as your clutch pedal doesn't vibrate when you press it, you should be fine. This also depend on how loud it is.


For the fuel cutting out issue:
the last week before my fuel pump went south i had my rear seat up so i could wiggle it to keep it going at times. My cabrio has one 1 pump, not sure about yours.

I'd 2nd the fuel leak issue.. it's a very common area for leakage.

Best of luck.
Julien

The throwout/release bearing is brand new, so I'm skeptical that it failed already. However, I've been told the ABS plastic one in the Sachs kit is crap, and there's an alloy one somewhere you can get that helps. Also, it's most likely the input shaft bearing, as a few others have said, which most cars need anyways, and it requires a tranny rebuild - that's coming in the winter.

Pretty sure my car has two pumps - one under the DS near the rear wheel, and one under the rear seat. I'll bang on them and see if it causes anything. I'm wondering if this is yet again a relay problem, as with my blower motor, because the relays are quite old - might even be original.

I'll see what I can find with the fuel issue, but I'm getting 22-23 MPG with a stroker and a VERY heavy foot - if I were leaking, I'd assume I'd be seeing lower numbers...

[Low Level E30]

I'm pretty sure I'll want the rubber ones too - as this car won't be on the track ever, it should be just fine with rubber ones for another 20 years. What sort of grease should I use for something like that?

I like white lithium grease. You'll want the thick version that requires painting on w/ a li'l stiff-bristled brush.

Here's the required Internet endorsement:

http://www.extremehowto.com/xh/article.asp?article_id=60343

The undisputed king of grease for miscellaneous automotive applications is white lithium grease. The obvious lubrication advantages are augmented by its ability to repel moisture, retain its lubrication and protect from corrosion. White lithium grease comes in a variety of consistencies. The best pairing for keeping things moving smoothly is a tub of the pasty thick stuff, and a can of the spray variety. Use the paste on heavy duty areas like door hinges and hood latches. The spray can is perfect for smaller spots. The small straw on the spray can helps with application in tighter areas such as door latch mechanisms.