AJ, urethane bushings slide right in and then you tighten a bolt to expand the inner insert which expands the bushing to fit tightly in the subframe.
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The rear subframe bushings while a PITA to change are not that difficult and can be done in a day. After reading the instructions for the tool that is sold online for removing the bushings, I cobbled one together from some plumbing and hardware parts. Here is what I used.
1. 3 inch male to male steel/iron pipe connector
2. 3 inch pipe cap
3. 2 inch pipe cap
4. 1.5 inch pipe cap
5. 1.25 inch pipe cap
6. .5 inch threaded rod with lots of nuts and washers
I drilled a 1/2 inch hole in the center of all pipe caps to allow the threaded rod to go through.
To Remove.
1. Place 1.25 inch pipe cap on top of the subframe bushing, wth the opening of the pipe cap facing the bushing
2. Run a length of the threaded rod through the bushing and pipe cap, and secure with two nuts
3. Place the 3 inch pipe cap on the 3 inch pipe connector and slide over the bottom of the threaded rod and then place a washer and nut on the bottom.
4. Crank away on the bottom nut to pull the old bushing out. I found it came out easier when I tightened it down some and then heated the subframe a little with a torch, but not enough to set the bushing on fire or melt it.
A word of caution, the 1.25 inch cap will fit into the bushing opening on the subframe but will not come out the bottom as it there is a dimple near the bottom of the opening that catches it. So you will need to dismantle the setup once the bushing is out and take the 1.25 inch cap out the top. The 3 inch sleeve will not sit level due to the design of the subframe, but this did not seem to be a problem.
To Install
1. Place 2 inch cap on top of the subframe, wth the opening of the pipe cap facing the bushing
2. Run a length of threaded rod through the cap and secure with two nuts
3. Place the new bushing over the threaded rod on the bottom of the subframe and place the 1.5 inch pipe cap over the bottom of the bushing with the opening of the pipe cap facing the bushing
4. Place a washer and nut over the cap and tighten away
I used a water with small amount of dish soap as a lubricant. I did find that the threaded rod may strip out depending on how much force is required to press the bushings. When I had the first bushing almost all the way in I stripped the threaded rod and had to cut it off. I then enlarged the hole in the two pipe caps to allow me to use the subframe mounting bolt, I was replacing them anyways, which is a higher grade stronger nut and bolt. This pressed the bushing in the rest of the way with no problem. I also strongly recommend that you get a Gearwrench, or similar ratcheting wrench, as it makes the job go much quicker.
All parts can be purchased at a local home improvement store, except the 3 inch pipe fittings which I had to get at a plumbing supply store.Last edited by Bimmerfanatik; 07-07-2006, 09:06 PM.Comment
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heeter once had a thread on here about how to get the old subframe bushings out - $10 Bernz-o-matic I believe. Urethanes will slide right in to replace.Current Cars2014 M235i2009 R56 Cooper S1998 M31997 M3Comment
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No shit? Very cool.Originally posted by Digitalwave
Maybe you -should- get urethane bushings then, Scott --- a lot easier to install at home, I'm sure. I wouldn't want to mess w/ rubber bushings and a press unless I could get the car up on a lift, or get the ass-end up in the air...
I don't know about using white lithium grease on urethane --- I imagine it's Ok, but I'd do some research first just in case. Don't want 'em to squeak in your pimpin' 'vert :DComment
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I'm most likely going urethane, but I'm not positive just yet.
Can anyone find me a writeup? I want to know what I'm doing before I get under there. Is it just undo the side bolts and bottom bolts on the subframe that attach to the body, then burn them out or something? No idea.
Also, I need bushings...I'll post a WTB now.Comment
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Honestly, its as simple as undoing everything that could connect the subframe to the car, and the taking the 2 main bolts off.
The Bentley should have it covered.
You haven't taken a subframe out of a parts car yet?Comment
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I was thinking that too.Originally posted by DigitalwaveCurrent Cars2014 M235i2009 R56 Cooper S1998 M31997 M3Comment
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Read my response above - Bentley is at the garage, to which I have limited access, and have not yet been able to refer to. Also, the Bentley isn't always the best way to do something - as some responses have shown there's not even a need to remove the subframe in some cases.Originally posted by Digitalwave
We've removed a whole bunch of subframes - but we just took a sawzall to the subframes and did it the easy way. Not exactly planning on rolling my car upside down and hacking the subframe off :)
I'm sure it's not that hard, and with all the other aspects I've covered on these cars, I'll be able to figure it out. However, I've never had any experience with the subframe bushings, and with all the complaining people seem to do about them, I want to make damn sure this project gets finished on time. It's my only car, and it needs to get me to work on Friday. So I may be asking a few more questions than I need to, but the more info I have going into this the better.Comment
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Definitely going urethane - I want a stiff ride and better handling over a softer ride and more flex.
Next question - trailing arm bushings. I've got H&R Race springs, so it's got a nice drop on it, and a bit of camber - not crazy, but probably more than I should have. Should I get eccentric or not?
One last question - brand. For the subframe bushings, as well as the TA bushings. AKG has some eccentric TA bushings on ebay for $155, or standard for $95. They also have poly rear subframe bushings for $80.
Just wondering what to go with - don't ever want to do it again, at least not in the next decade or two :) Car only sees spring, summer and early fall anyways!
Dropping a spare subframe from a parts car tomorrow, sanding and painting it, and installing the new parts on it. Next week I'll drop my subframe and install the new one ready to go. No downtime! :)Comment
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the eccentric trailing arm bushings seem interesting. Did some searching, and if they are the same as the k-mac's they adjust camber and toe at the same time which apparently is a pain to nail one down and get the other right. The concensus seems to be IE camber and toe kit instead. Dunno. From a thread in 2004:
Originally posted by nitro325isComment
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I have IE trailing arm bushings AND subframe bushings.
SOMEHOW the dealer was able to dial my rear camber out to like -2.5 Course, my toe in seems to be pretty high. Since I removed a couple of my rear pads, my rear camber is a lot higher now. (looks to be -3 now) But, nontheless, if I did it again, I'd get the adjustable ones.
I will eventually. lol For now, the tires should last a while anyway. I'll add more pads before I drive back to school in August, hopefully that'll save em! heh- Sean HayesComment
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How's the ride? I'm almost certain I'm going urethane. How much more are the adjustable TA bushings than the non, and how hard/easy are they to adjust?Originally posted by SeanComment
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Couldn't tell you about adjusting the TA bushings. I didn't think urethane TA bushings were even adjustable, I jsut thought I was SOL. But the dealer made the magic happen.Originally posted by Bimmerfanatik
The ride is badass. I love it! It's stiff, but so is every other thing on my car. If you ran stock suspension with urethane bushings, I don't think you would hear a whole lot more, you would just get better feedback from your rear tires.
Defiantely go urethane man, they kickass. lol- Sean HayesComment
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I'm already on H&R race with bil sports in a cabbie and no subframe bushings - can only get better from here ;)Originally posted by SeanComment
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HELL YESOriginally posted by Bimmerfanatik
Do it. You WILL not regret it!
Especially if you like the 3.0i shifter! :P- Sean HayesComment
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