The "Need to fix" list = too many to put in one forum.

[euro3]

Rattle at idle???

I think your rattle at an idle (but dissappears when you hit the clutch) is a bad tranny bearing.

If you are not in gear, and your clutch is not depressed, your transmission is spinning with your engine (rattle, rattle)....Once you depress the clutch, your engine disconnects from the transmission and is no longer spinning (rattle gone).

You hear it most at an idle because you dont have the engine/road noise going, but more than likely the rattle is there whenever the tranny is spinning.

If your throw out bearing was bad, it would make noise when you depress the clutch and disappear when you release it.

Since you know the subframe bushings are bad, you have to start there. I'd start off with OEM bushings and possibly upgrade later once all your other issues are sorted. If the tire is somehow rubbing it could be connected to the excessive play from the shot rear subframe bushings.

For your fuel issue, I'd run a straight wire from the battery to the pos on the fuel pump. (purple/green wire) If your problem disappears its a relay or ground issue. If the problem is still there you can move to the pump.

I'm no expert, but that is how I would do it. Good luck

[nando]

I don't think urethane bushings are too harsh at all for the street. a benefit is they last way longer than rubber.

[Digitalwave]

I don't think eurethane bushings are too harsh at all for the street. a benefit is they last way longer than rubber.

They are also easier to install. You won't mind the urethane rear subframe bushings if you keep spring pads in the rear. Are you replacing the trailing arm bushings as well? Maybe keep those rubber.

All those E30's you own, and this is the only one that runs?

[redhatpat]

I've only had them in for 2 months, but the IE urethane SFB don't squeak, and aren't harsh. This is with an otherwise stock suspension. The harshness will come from the springs and shocks, not form the SFB. I'd recommend going with the IE urethane street versions.

Using a rubber trailing arm bushing will help the rear suspension from getting too harsh.

[UNHCLL]

NOTE: Please take the time to read this. Even if you can only give advice or insight to one of the issues, it'll be that much closer to smoothing out the bumps.

As most of you know, I'm 2 weeks on the road with my m20 stroker vert. As one should expect, there are still some bugs that need working.

First off, the rear subframe bushings are non-existent. I need to replace them, but don't want to make the ride too stiff. I'm running H&R race w/ bilstein sports, and moving from a 14" tire to a 16". Will urethane be a bit too much, or will it be a welcome upgrade?

Use stock bushings

Second, there's been an ongoing issue with puffs of smoke coming from my rear right corner. When people are following me on the highway, they see it - definitely out of the RH side, and it was doing it before the swap. It's not exhaust related, as far as I know, so I can't figure out where it's coming from. Seems to happen when I hit bumps on the highway, if that helps. Also seen when I cornered hard left once or twice too.

Check for tire/wheel rubbing on the rear fender lips/inner fender walls, etc.

Next, my fuel cutout issue. Came back again today, but again, not consistent, and can't find the cause. Driving down the highway and the engine cuts out and in again, and eventually stalls out. Turn the key off and on, and it's back to normal for a bit. I can get in the car a few hours later and it won't do it even once. Theories are a bad ecu, bad tps, bad relays, or a possible bad fuel pump. Thoughts?

Sticky relay.

Lastly, a heck of a rattle when idling, that's now also rattling when accelerating in 1st and sometimes second. Push the clutch in at idle and it goes away. Shift past second or third, it goes away. Doesn't do it all the time when accelerating, but always at idle - might be two seperate issues.

Did you replace the Throw Out Bearing when this whole monstrosity was apart? Do you have a LTW flywheel?



-CL

[Bimmerfanatik]

Things just went from bad to worse. If I accelerate harder than normal the driveshaft whacks against the underbody in 1st and mostly 2nd gears. It's quite bad.

Went underneath, and the flex disc - barely a few weeks old and 1500 miles old, is destroyed. The subframe bushings are now officially gone. So long as I accelerate slowly and carefully, the car drives fine. Get on it even a little hard, and it's a massage chair on wheels. Not so good.

I can't afford to have this car down for more than my two days off, next Wed and Thurs. Is it possible/feasible to replace the subframe bushings in a day's time with limited tools?

Found the source of the fuel cutout. The main relay was bad. Whacked it a few times with the car running and the car cut out. Replaced it with another and it stopped. One problem down...

Chris - I indeed replaced the TO/Release bearing when I did the swap - new Sachs clutch, pressure plate w/bolts, TO bearing and pilot bearing. Dan Teague mentioned the ABS plastic pieces that come with the Sachs kit having a tendency to fail, and that there's another material (some sort of aluminum or alloy) used on other variants. Wondering if I should get in there and swap it out. No LTW flywheel - just the stock 87 i, which Mike Morris looked over and gave the thumbs up for duty.

They are also easier to install. You won't mind the urethane rear subframe bushings if you keep spring pads in the rear. Are you replacing the trailing arm bushings as well? Maybe keep those rubber.

All those E30's you own, and this is the only one that runs?

I'll be keeping the spring pads in the rear. I'd like to replace the TA bushings while I'm in there too, and those will most likely be rubber. Why are the urethane bushings easier to install? Does the subframe have to be dropped to replace them? Time to find a writeup...

Yes TJ, this is the only one that runs. Starting from the back, the 85 euro is a rolling chassis that's for sale or will become a track project, the 87 es is tentatively sold, the 86 es was bought for its houndstooth interior, got me around for 6 months, and then its diff went elsewhere too. Too rusty to save, but still some good parts. The 90 calypso is engineless waiting for the project to start (buyer finalizing plans), the white 318i needs to be stripped and the 88 SETA was a generous donor to my cabby when the engine greneded :)

All of my cars were bought for a purpose, whether it be to make money off them or to steal parts from them, or both. I've broken even or made a profit on each one, so I don't mind having them sit there doing nothing until I need them.

Chris, Dave, others - thanks for the advice. Fuel issue is solved, now I need to fix the subframe bushings.

[Nick325is]

If you are planning on doing the subframe bushings in a day or so make sure you have all of your parts there and you have access to a bearing press. I am in the process of doing all rear suspension bushings and the wheel bearings and having access to a press has made things alot easier.

Its definitly possible to do the subframe bushings in a day though.

Feel free to PM me with any questions you may have.


Nick

[erik325i]

I indeed replaced the TO/Release bearing when I did the swap - new Sachs clutch, pressure plate w/bolts, TO bearing and pilot bearing.

Did you put any lube/grease onto the TO bearing when you installed it?
I always put some grease onto the TO bearing where it contacts the tranny input shaft.

I still think it's the TO bearing causing the clutch rattle.

-Erik

[Dave]

Scott, the urethane ones are easier because they dont have to be pressed in. Doesn't help on the part where the old ones need to come out, though. If you can cut or burn out what is left of the old bushings, you'll just slide the new ones in. That is why they are easier to install. Ditto on the TA bushings. However, again, you still need to get the old ones out Fortunately, you can make a "press" for those out of some threaded rod, washers and nuts - there is a writeup somewnere - I've done it.


Having said that, Langsten is probably right that stock rubber ones will make for a better ride.

Why did that flex disc go like that?

[Digitalwave]

I killed 2 flex discs after my tranny swap. On the third one, I used new bolts and torqued them to spec and it was fine. Make sure you do the same, and also make sure you insert the bolts in the correct direction per the arrows on the flex disc.

BMA will probably replace the flex disc for free.

[Bimmerfanatik]

Did you put any lube/grease onto the TO bearing when you installed it?
I always put some grease onto the TO bearing where it contacts the tranny input shaft.

I still think it's the TO bearing causing the clutch rattle.

-Erik

Definitely greased it - followed the book to the letter, each spot, and greased liberally. But, again, it's ABS and it's been said these fail fast at times, so maybe it's a combination of a few things.

Scott, the urethane ones are easier because they dont have to be pressed in. Doesn't help on the part where the old ones need to come out, though. If you can cut or burn out what is left of the old bushings, you'll just slide the new ones in. That is why they are easier to

install. Ditto on the TA bushings. However, again, you still need to get the old ones out Fortunately, you can make a "press" for those out of some threaded rod, washers and nuts - there is a writeup somewnere - I've done it.


Having said that, Langsten is probably right that stock rubber ones will make for a better ride.

Why did that flex disc go like that?

Better ride with stock=paying someone $500 to replace them, or buy urethane and do it myself...I don't know.

I need a writeup - I've got to do these next week or this is going to get ugly and keep breaking more parts. Flex disc went because the subframe is flexing left and right and buckling the driveshaft. Not to mention the driveshaft was a bit notchy - not as bad as some I've seen, but I doubt it helps.

I killed 2 flex discs after my tranny swap. On the third one, I used new bolts and torqued them to spec and it was fine. Make sure you do the same, and also make sure you insert the bolts in the correct direction per the arrows on the flex disc.

BMA will probably replace the flex disc for free.

See above - the trashed subframe bushings and notchy driveshaft are likely causing the flex disc to go south. I thought I could make it to the fall and do a full rebuild, but looks like that won't happen.

Bought the flex disc from flyingbrick - maybe Dan can help out, but it's the other parts causing the failure, so I don't know why they would.

[rede30]

I say go urethane, it wont be that harsh. Its not like going thr for CAB's because its easier, It wont kill your ride. Buying them and having that hold you till you have time would be cheaper than having a place do it.

[Digitalwave]

You still don't have a Bentley by the way?

[Bimmerfanatik]

You still don't have a Bentley by the way?

Dude I've had a Bentley for years - since I first bought the euro eta. I just don't have it in front of me, and the bentley is not always the best example of how to do something.

[Low Level E30]

Subframe bushings can be done at home, w/ out dropping the whole subframe. It would be much much better on a lift, obviously. I have never done it w/ out a lift --- I'm not sure I'd want to try it w/ out one.

You can do the rubber ones yourself, they aren't that hard to get in with the right tools --- you'll need "mechanical" help, so if you can borrow a press from someone, that would be excellent. W/ a press, you can easily do it yourself.

I personally have never swapped urethane bushings into a car, I've only driven on them, so I don't know how hard / easy they are to get into the car.

Regardless of whether they're urethane or rubber, the bushing should fit tight... which obviously doesn't make it any easier to get in. Thus, the recommedation for white lithium lube.