There are speciality tools/techniques that just make a job exponentially easier than it would normally be.
I will start the list. Please feel free to add: always looking to expand my speciality tools, and knowledge base.
Job: Replacing rubber brake lines (with OEM or SS) from the trailing arm to the union underneath the rear subframe.
Problem: You need to hold the rubber hose from spinning when trying to undo the hard line from the other side, but its nearly inaccessible.
Commonly advised course of action that we are trying to not do: remove/drop subframe from vehicle to gain access to the brake union.
Speciality tool or technique to avoid aforementioned: 14mm crows foot with 3/8 extension.
The hard line is a 11mm nut, while the rubber line is a 14mm nut. Both driver and passenger sides you are able to get a 14mm crows foot on, just barely, to hold the rubber line while you undo the 11mm nut from just in front of the subframe.
Proof:
Job: Getting half shaft back into rear hub (wheel bearing job, half shaft replacement, etc).
Problem: Assuming your hub and half shaft splines are in good condition, the fit is very tight, and does not simply slide in, and the amount that it does slide in does not expose enough thread length to catch with the nut to pull the half shaft in.
Commonly advised course of action that we are trying to not do: clean the splines with brass brush, clean hub splines, and if that doesn't work try identifying any burrs. Then magically become religious when you ask god for help when the half shaft still doesn't slide in far enough, and you start using a pry bar between the diff and half shaft.
Speciality tool or technique to avoid aforementioned: "Ford Front Hub Installer" M22 x 1.5mm
What tool does it that it goes through the tunnel of the hub, grabs on to the half shaft thread, and a socket looking push cylinder pulls the half shaft into the splines as you tighten the nut. Think of it as essentially temporarily extended half shaft threads by 8-10 inches. Literally makes the job COMPLETELY painless, really couldn't be easier.
Since old fords are all junked now, these tools can be picked up for very cheap. Can be had for 10-15 bucks.
Proof:
A broader set that also includes an M24 x 1.5mm (to push front wheel bearing into shaft) is called a "Antriebswellen Einzieher" set or Drive shaft insertion set.
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Job: Getting out stuck balljoints out of the front strut assembly without destroying boot.
Commonly advised course of action that we are trying to not do: Hit the housing with a BFH, or add the nut back on to and hit the nut with a BFH to save the threads, or use a speciality tool (not pickle fork).
Speciality tool or technique to avoid aforementioned: Air hammer and blunt tip.
The vibrations from the blunt tip will more commonly then not free up seized bolts without causing marring, especially if used from above.
More to come later.
I will start the list. Please feel free to add: always looking to expand my speciality tools, and knowledge base.
Job: Replacing rubber brake lines (with OEM or SS) from the trailing arm to the union underneath the rear subframe.
Problem: You need to hold the rubber hose from spinning when trying to undo the hard line from the other side, but its nearly inaccessible.
Commonly advised course of action that we are trying to not do: remove/drop subframe from vehicle to gain access to the brake union.
Speciality tool or technique to avoid aforementioned: 14mm crows foot with 3/8 extension.
The hard line is a 11mm nut, while the rubber line is a 14mm nut. Both driver and passenger sides you are able to get a 14mm crows foot on, just barely, to hold the rubber line while you undo the 11mm nut from just in front of the subframe.
Proof:
Job: Getting half shaft back into rear hub (wheel bearing job, half shaft replacement, etc).
Problem: Assuming your hub and half shaft splines are in good condition, the fit is very tight, and does not simply slide in, and the amount that it does slide in does not expose enough thread length to catch with the nut to pull the half shaft in.
Commonly advised course of action that we are trying to not do: clean the splines with brass brush, clean hub splines, and if that doesn't work try identifying any burrs. Then magically become religious when you ask god for help when the half shaft still doesn't slide in far enough, and you start using a pry bar between the diff and half shaft.
Speciality tool or technique to avoid aforementioned: "Ford Front Hub Installer" M22 x 1.5mm
What tool does it that it goes through the tunnel of the hub, grabs on to the half shaft thread, and a socket looking push cylinder pulls the half shaft into the splines as you tighten the nut. Think of it as essentially temporarily extended half shaft threads by 8-10 inches. Literally makes the job COMPLETELY painless, really couldn't be easier.
Since old fords are all junked now, these tools can be picked up for very cheap. Can be had for 10-15 bucks.
Proof:
A broader set that also includes an M24 x 1.5mm (to push front wheel bearing into shaft) is called a "Antriebswellen Einzieher" set or Drive shaft insertion set.
Job: Getting out stuck balljoints out of the front strut assembly without destroying boot.
Commonly advised course of action that we are trying to not do: Hit the housing with a BFH, or add the nut back on to and hit the nut with a BFH to save the threads, or use a speciality tool (not pickle fork).
Speciality tool or technique to avoid aforementioned: Air hammer and blunt tip.
The vibrations from the blunt tip will more commonly then not free up seized bolts without causing marring, especially if used from above.
More to come later.
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