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Why aren't all our wheels falling off/all hubs or discs warping?

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    #46
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
    Lugs were still to TQ :P

    Crazy thing is, I had just gotten out of the car about 30min prior. It happened climbing the hill, turn 1 at Road Atlanta (middle of 4th gear)!

    The top pic is when it was still on the roll back, we jacked it up while on the truck, slapped a new wheel on, just in time to do one lap and get the checkered flag haha.
    Believe it or not (I'm sure you do, having been to RA), one of our Ginettas snapped a LR axle shaft just after the apex of Turn 1 and the wheel, hub, brake drum, and everything departed stage left. Scary stuff.
    Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

    Elva Courier build thread here!

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      #47
      I did that at the drag strip doing neutral drops, before I invested in a higher stall converter. Young and dumb..


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      1991 325i MT2 Touring (JDM bro)
      2016 Ford Flex
      2011 Audi A3 - wife's other German car

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        #48
        The loads on the wheel are very low compared to the bolt forces generated from even a half torqued set of 4 bolts so you'd have to forget to tighten them or overload then to the point of necking and breaking them to have an issue. Assuming you aren't using Chinese bolts made from cheese
        89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

        new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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          #49
          Originally posted by ELVA164 View Post
          Believe it or not (I'm sure you do, having been to RA), one of our Ginettas snapped a LR axle shaft just after the apex of Turn 1 and the wheel, hub, brake drum, and everything departed stage left. Scary stuff.
          2 friend of mine lost right front t1 at Sebring. o.0

          Glad I haven't experienced loosing a wheel/hub....yet.

          Originally posted by digger View Post
          The loads on the wheel are very low compared to the bolt forces generated from even a half torqued set of 4 bolts so you'd have to forget to tighten them or overload then to the point of necking and breaking them to have an issue. Assuming you aren't using Chinese bolts made from cheese

          I had a wheel nearly come off when someone on our team had reset the torque wrench to 80 instead of 90 ft/lb, so even "a little loose" can be dangerous - but again, street car probably wouldn't notice.
          john@m20guru.com
          Links:
          Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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            #50
            Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
            2 friend of mine lost right front t1 at Sebring. o.0

            Glad I haven't experienced loosing a wheel/hub....yet.
            I can unfortunately say from experience it isn't the best part of racing.



            That video will be staying private for the time being...
            Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

            Elva Courier build thread here!

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              #51
              Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
              I had a wheel nearly come off when someone on our team had reset the torque wrench to 80 instead of 90 ft/lb, so even "a little loose" can be dangerous - but again, street car probably wouldn't notice.
              i doubt having 10 ftlb less than what BMW recommend was the real reason, it is peanuts, and no way is there that little margin in the design. ive never used a torque wrench for wheels in my life, make sure interfaces are clean no debris or burrs etc and then tighten until they feel good using a decent length bar 16" or so. there is anything wrong with using one though and if you get a flat on the street what to do....you gotta use the stupid bmw wrench
              Last edited by digger; 04-20-2017, 02:38 PM.
              89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

              new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

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                #52
                Originally posted by digger View Post
                i doubt having 10 ftlb less than what BMW recommend was the real reason, it is peanuts, and no way is there that little margin in the design. ive never used a torque wrench for wheels in my life, make sure interfaces are clean no debris or burrs etc and then tighten until they feel good using a decent length bar 16" or so. there is anything wrong with using one though and if you get a flat on the street what to do....you gotta use the stupid bmw wrench
                I wouldn't think so, either, but it happened, wheels were loosening up. And, yeah, even standing on the BMW wrench will over tighten them. 80lb weight at the end of a foot (foot-pound). I laugh when I see someone using all their might to tighten a lug.
                john@m20guru.com
                Links:
                Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                  #53
                  I'll jump in on this one, Ive had it happen to me, too.
                  Young, Dumb(er), and in High School, the e30 was my first ride.
                  I must have gotten too stoned, and changed a flat or something....

                  All I know is, I felt a weird, serious vibration, pulled into my close-by friends driveway, and jacked up that wheel.. Sure enough, before I could figure out much else, the lugs were hand-loose and halfway backed out.

                  sumbich.

                  Now I hit everything with the breaker bar, put half my weight at the end, and call it 86-ft-lbs, or so.
                  Been good since!

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                    #54
                    lol elva, the number of uga-duga's on 7/16" studs just means how many you need to replace, i know its correct but still, torquing the lugs on our s1a europa to 37 ft-lbs still make me cringe thinking they will loosen

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                      #55
                      Originally posted by 2002tiiguy View Post
                      lol elva, the number of uga-duga's on 7/16" studs just means how many you need to replace, i know its correct but still, torquing the lugs on our s1a europa to 37 ft-lbs still make me cringe thinking they will loosen
                      I know, it's freaky. I can tell you: If 40 ft•lb is enough to keep the Cortina in four-wheel drifts for half an hour, it'll hold up to the Europa just fine :)

                      Any pics of the Europa? Renault or Twin Cam?
                      Interested in vintage cars? Ever thought about racing one? Info, photos, videos, and more can be found at www.michaelsvintageracing.com!

                      Elva Courier build thread here!

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                        #56
                        Originally posted by djjerme View Post
                        I did that at the drag strip doing neutral drops, before I invested in a higher stall converter. Young and dumb..
                        My friend managed to shear all his wheel studs off after installing a higher stall in his Camaro. 400whp, sticky tires, and stock studs, not a great idea. The tires caught instantly and then all the lug nuts were in the air making a pretty little loop. Luckily he only needed a new front bumper after rotating sideways into the wall.
                        AWD > RWD

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