E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Collection_136. ETK_11_Engine. Lubricating system oil filter. Oil dipstick

BMW E30 cars with the M20B25 engine were equipped with an oil cooler as standard. To install its hoses on the engine block, a special oil filter adapter with a built-in thermostat is installed.

Lubrication system oil filter




Part #1 - oil filter (11 42 1 707 779). I always use the Mann-Filter (W71915).
Part No. 2 - ring of round section 65X3 (11 42 1 265 670) - 1 pc. Rubber ring.
Part #3 - PUROLATOR oil filter adapter (11 42 1 711 070). Comes complete with built-in thermostat and spring.

Part No. 4 - ring of round section 20.0X3 (11 42 1 714 764) - 1 pc. Rubber ring installed on the bolt (#6). But it is not round, but flat, and flush with the surface of the bolt. At the same time, the bolt goes in quite tightly. And with a round ring, it may not fit at all... Therefore, although I bought such a similar ring, I decided to leave the old original one. If someone changed it, write what it is in the original.
Part No. 5 - sealing ring A27X32-AL (07 11 9 963 441) - 1 pc. Aluminum.
Part No. 5 - sealing ring A24X29-AL (07 11 9 963 384) - 1 pc. Aluminum. It is not clear what this ring is for. Its size does not fit anywhere and it was not installed there. Perhaps this is another error in ETK. If anyone knows for sure, please write.
Part No. 6 - PUROLATOR hollow bolt (11 42 1 711 071) - 1 pc.

Part No. 7 - set of gaskets (11 42 9 059 338) - 1 pc. The set consists of a rubber sealing ring 24.5x3 mm, an aluminum plug, and a metal retaining ring. I don't understand why it is not possible to order the original rubber ring separately, but only together with the plug and retaining ring? Why change the plug? Therefore, I bought a similar rubber ring 24x3 mm separately, although the old one was normal.


Assembly is simple - insert the thermostat and spring into the adapter.


We put the rubber ring on the plug, insert the plug, compress the spring with it and put the locking ring in the groove. Then we put an aluminum sealing ring on the bolt and insert it into the adapter. We insert a large rubber ring into the groove of the adapter. The adapter is assembled.


We bolt the adapter to the engine block in place of the oil filter in this position. Screw the oil filter to the adapter.


After installing the motor, we screw the hoses of the already installed oil cooler to the adapter.

ETK has another type of oil filter:
Environmental oil filter


I have never met him on an E30. If someone has such a filter, I would be grateful for a photo. I wonder what he looks like. Probably something similar to the filter on the M50 engines...

I skip the other sections on the lubrication system, as they relate to the "innards" of the engine.




As I have already said, during its repair there, everything that was necessary was already replaced.

The next section of ETK
Oil dipstick




Part #1 - oil dipstick L=533.5MM (11 43 1 718 863).
Part #2 - guide pipe (11 11 1 705 786).
Part #3 - bracket (11 43 1 720 566).
Part No. 4 - bolt M6X12 (07 11 9 905 524) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - clamp (11 43 1 258 342).
Part No. 6 - M6 nut (07 11 9 905 543) - 2 pcs.


It is important to use the dipstick that matches the motor, as they have different lengths and oil level markings.
The tube is tightly inserted into the engine block. A collar is put on the tube from above, to which the bracket is screwed with a bolt and a nut. The bracket is fixed with a nut and washer to the stud on the intake manifold. Since the collector is not yet installed, I did not install the tube bracket either. So far, I just tried it on in approximately this position.


Next, about the details of the engine block.

[The_Glory]

Collection_137. ETK_11_Engine. Engine crankcase block

Engine crankcase block


Again, I did not completely disassemble the engine block, so the photo shows only those parts that were removed.


Part #1 - cylinder block with pistons (11 11 1278 921). There is no such number in ETK for some reason... strange.

Part #2 - bolt M10X75 (11 11 1 735 525). It was not filmed.
Part No. 3 - oil pressure sensor (12 61 1 710 509). I had a sensor installed under the restyling wiring connector, so I left it.
Part No. 4 - plug D=12.0MM (11 11 1 268 539) - 2 pcs. It was not filmed.
Part No. 5 - threaded fitting (11 11 2 140 435). On my unit, there is no place for its installation, just like the fitting itself. Maybe it depends on the year of release...
Part No. 6 - centering sleeve D=12.5MM (11 11 1 280 594) - 2 pcs. It was not filmed.
Part No. 7 - threaded plug AM14X1.5 (07 11 9 919 228) - 1 pc. Plug for draining antifreeze from the engine block.
Part No. 8 - sealing ring A14X18-AL (07 11 9 963 200) - 1 pc. Aluminum.
Part No. 9 - ring of circular section (11 15 1 714 390) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - spacer washer (11 15 1 280 937) - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - tube (11 15 1 280 938) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - spring (11 15 1 265 346) - 1 pc.

Part #13 - threaded plug AM12X1.5 (07 11 9 919 225) - not used.
Part No. 14 - sealing ring A12X15.5 AL (07 11 9 963 130) - 2 pcs. Aluminum.
Part No. 15 - ring of round section 79X2.5 (11 11 1 285 403) - 1 pc. It was not filmed.
Part No. 16 - cover (11 11 1 285 395) - 1 pc. It was not filmed.
Part No. 17 - protective shield (11 14 1 280 826) - 1 pc.
Part No. 18 - cover (11 11 1 714 712) - 11 pcs. It was not filmed.
Part No. 19 - centering sleeve D=14.5MM (11 11 1 743 118) - 2 pcs. One was missing, he installed.
Details No. 20...No. 22 - Not filmed.
Part No. 23 - bearing 11.4X16 (11 11 1 265 412) - 1 pc.
Part No. 24 - sealing ring 42x3 (12 11 1 363 190) - 1 pc.
Part No. 25 - bearing cover (11 41 1 276 333) - 1 pc.
Part No. 26 - bracket (12 12 1 364 199) - 1 pc.
Part No. 27 - bolt M8X28 (07 11 9 913 659) - 1 pc.
Part No. 28 - threaded fitting M12 (11 12 1 740 3960 - 1 pc.

Part No. 29 - rubber gasket 305MM (11 14 1 287 846) - 1 pc.
Part No. 30 - stiffness insert (11 14 1 286 342) - 1 pc.
Part No. 31 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 32 - bolt M8X65 (07 11 9 912 535) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 33 - bolt M8X45 (07 11 9 902 955) - 1 pc.
Part No. 33 - bolt M8X80 (07 11 9 912 558) - 1 pc.

Part No. 34 - Torx bolt M8X80 (23 00 1 434 509) - 4 pcs. Manual transmission mounting bolts.
Part No. 35, No. 36 - not used.
Part No. 37 - cover (11 11 1 718 873). In my case, it is not used - an oil dipstick tube is installed in its place.
Part No. 38 - a set of gaskets. It was not filmed.

The bearing cap (#25) is simply pulled up, using a screwdriver or a flat blade. I had it with an old sealing ring. I bought a 42x3 mm ring, but I guess I need to take a little smaller, somewhere 41x3, or maybe even 40x3, so that it fits more tightly on the lid. We put the ring on the cover with the bearing.


We insert the cover and tightly drive it into the engine block until it stops. We fix it from above with a bracket with a bolt.


We put the tube (#11) with washer, spring and rubber rings. I have not put the spring yet, because it is pressed by the intake manifold.
Screw the fitting (No. 28) with an aluminum ring (No. 14).
Install the shield (No. 17) on the bushings (No. 19).
We fasten with bolts (No. 32, No. 33) the stiffness insert through the rubber gasket (No. 29).





We twist the threaded plug (No. 7) through the aluminum ring (No. 8) for draining the antifreeze from the engine block.
We screw the oil pressure sensor (No. 3) through the aluminum ring (No. 14).


That's all for the block.
I skip all other sections on the piston system, since everything necessary there was replaced earlier.












Next, probably a little about attachments...

[The_Glory]

Collection_138. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. Generator

Let's go to the ETK section
Engine electrical equipment

I'll start with the units on the generator.

Alternator mounting parts




Part #1 - support bracket (32 41 1 264 642).
Part #2 - bolt M8X30 (07 11 9 913 664) - 2 pcs.
Part #3, #6, #12 - elastic washer (07 11 9 932 095) - 5 pcs.
Part #4 - bolt M8X60 (07 11 9 901 797) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - bolt M8X85 (12 31 1 716 014) - 1 pc.
Part No. 7, No. 11 - self-locking nut (07 12 9 946 400) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 8 - clamping plate (12 31 1 274 833) - 1 pc.
Part No. 9 - tension mechanism gear (12 31 7 677 914) - 1 pc.
Part #10 - screw with a semicircular head M8X80 (12 31 1 276 516) - 1 pc.

The generator support bracket is also a bracket for the power steering pump. Although, there is also a separate bracket - only for the generator. This is exactly the bracket I had installed earlier, but I replaced it when installing the hydraulic booster. Therefore, I will immediately write here about the fastening of the power steering pump.
Power steering pump. support bracket




In the photo, there was a strange reflection on the plates - as if they were rusty) In fact, they are shiny and beautiful)

Part #1 - support bracket (32 41 1 264 642). The same bracket #1 as for the generator.
Part No. 2 (No. 11) - bolt M8X60 (07 11 9 901 797) - 1 pc. Bolt #4 for the generator.
Part No. 3 - elastic washer (07 11 9 932 095) - 6 pcs. Washer No. 3 for the generator.
Part #4 - bolt M8X30 (07 11 9 913 664) - 2 pcs. Bolt #2 for the generator.
Part No. 5 - mounting plate (32 41 1 284 735) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - mounting plate (32 41 1 284 736) - 1 pc.
Part #7 - bolt M8X22 (07 11 9 913 652) - 5 pcs.
Part #8 - ZF mounting plate (32 41 1 128 080) - 1 pc. For VICKERS pump (32 41 1 132 164).
Part #9 - ZF mounting plate (32 41 1 288 597) - 1 pc. For VICKERS pump (32 41 1 132 166).
Part No. 10 - bolt M8X20 (07 11 9 903 039) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - bolt M8X35 (07 11 9 913 676) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 12 - clamping plate (12 31 1 719 992) - 1 pc.
Part #13 - screw with a semicircular head M8X30 (32 41 1 277 375) - 1 pc.
Part No. 14 - tension mechanism gear (12 31 7 677 914) - 1 pc.
Part No. 15 - self-locking nut (07 12 9 946 400) - 1 pc.

So, we assemble the bracket for the generator and the pump. Plates #8 and #9 will be installed later, together with the pump.


We fasten the bracket to the engine block with two bolts from the side and one bolt from the front end.




Next, about the details of the generator.
V-belt




Part #1 - V-belt 9.5X965 (11 51 1 706 710). I bought all the belts from the manufacturer Continental. AVX10X960 generator belt.

Part #2 - insulating part 8/5MM (12 31 1 286 664) - 1 pc. Plastic cover on the terminals of the generator. Plastic washers for generator terminals and nuts with washers for wiring terminals are not specified in ETK.
Part No. 3 - BOSCH generator capacitor (12 31 1 356 564) - 1 pc. According to the Bosch number (0290800036), it is much cheaper.

Part No. 4 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 099) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - bolt M6X8 (07 11 9 913 420) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - generator ground wire L=170MM (12 52 1 312 124) - 1 pc. In the original, it is red for some reason - strange. I made it myself from a brown wire, like all "ground" wires in BMW.


I had no complaints about the operation of the generator, but it did not look very beautiful, so of course I also completely disassembled and restored it. Replaced both bearings, brushes, contact rings of brushes, rubber sealing ring, rubber bushings, capacitor. Everything else is cleaned, painted and galvanized.


Several types of generators were installed on the E30. In my case, it is an 80A generator - Bosch Type N 0 120 469 619.
Alternator parts for 80A




Part No. 1 - nut M14X1.5 (07 11 9 901 309) - 1 pc.
Part #2 - spring ring B14 (07 11 9 933 148) - 1 pc.
Part #3 - pulley D=66MM (12 31 1 288 238) - 1 pc. It consists of five parts - two pulley "plates" and three washers.

Part No. 4 - impeller (12 31 1 735 306) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - key 4X5 (07 11 9 951 453) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - drive support (12 31 1 288 458) - 1 pc. Front cover.
Part No. 7 - retaining ring (12 31 1 276 226) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 8 - spacer washer (12 31 1 268 420) - 4 pcs.
Part #9 - bushing 75 SHORE LANG (12 31 1 268 433) - 4 pcs. I used the 01612 Febi analogue.
Part No. 10 - sleeve (12 31 1 276 227) - 2 pcs. Metal guide sleeve for the bolt.

Part No. 11 - bearing 47X17X14 (12 31 1 722 979) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - mounting plate (12 31 1 727 7400 - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - rotor (12 31 1 288 423) - 1 pc.
Part No. 14 - bearing 28X12X12 (12 31 1 714 521) - 1 pc.
Part No. 15 - generator winding (12 31 1 727 758) - 1 pc.
Part No. 16 - diode panel LIMA (12 31 1 288 457) - 1 pc.

Part No. 17 - ring of round cross-section ( 12 31 1 276 2240 - 1 pc.

Part No. 18 - housing (12 31 1 288 456) - 1 pc.
Part No. 19 - regulator (12 31 1 726 022) - 1 pc.
Part No. 20 - bolt (12 31 1 747 251) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 21 - bolt (12 31 1 727 760) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 22 - bolt (12 31 1 738 099) - 1 pc. Long screw for the ground wire.
Part No. 23 - generator "brushes" (12 31 1 727 756) - 1 pc. Set of "brushes" Bosch (1127014022).

Part No. 24 - rotor repair kit (12 31 1 727 762).

We install rubber bushings in the front cover and metal guides, fix them with washers and a retaining ring. If you look carefully at the ETK scheme, the upper and lower guides are installed from different sides. This is not accidental, and it is important! Previously, I did not pay attention to this and put bushings on one side. At the same time, the generator becomes a little oblique, and probably that is why the upper rubber sleeve was constantly wearing out and the belt began to squeak. The bushings protrude at different distances and this compensates for the difference in the plane of the lower attachment and the tension bar. In later generators, these bushings were completely removed, and different protrusions were simply made on the front cover from above and below.


Install the rubber ring in the generator housing.


We fasten the diode panel with the winding with six screws.


We install the capacitor and terminals.


We insert the rotor with bearings, screw the front cover, pulley and impeller.
Finished result:

Generator




Part #1 - generator (12 31 1 288 409).

Now the generator has a much better look and condition.








Here, the difference in the size of the protrusion of the upper and lower bushings is clearly visible:


We install the lower bracket on the bracket, and the upper - on the tension bar. The tension bar is screwed to the cover pin.






The generator is installed. I will install and tighten the belt after installing all the pulleys.

[The_Glory]

Collection_139. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. Additional elements of the air conditioner compressor. Belt drive

So, the generator bracket and the power steering pump are installed. My old pump is beyond repair, so I will be ordering a new one. But that will be later.
Almost the same with the compressor of the air conditioner - apparently it needs to be completely restored. Therefore, I also postponed it for later. For now, I will write about the compressor mounting bracket.
Let's go to the ETK section
Heating and Air Conditioning

Unit
Additional elements of the air conditioner compressor. Belt drive




Part No. 1 - support bracket (64 52 1 717 007)
Part #2 - bolt M8X25 (07 11 9 920 022) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 3 - bolt M8X100 (07 11 9 912 570) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 4 - self-locking nut M8 (07 12 9 946 400) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 5 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 7 pcs.
Part No. 6 - tension bar (64 52 1 284 748) - 1 pc. Or (64 55 1 714 458) - a little shorter.
Part No. 7 - spacer washer (07 11 9 936 441) - 1 pc.
Part No. 8 - tension mechanism gear (12 31 7 677 914) - 1 pc.
Part #9 - screw with a semicircular head M8X110 (64 52 1 284 966) - 1 pc.
Part #10 - V-belt 12.5X823 KLIMA (64 55 1 722 991). I bought all the belts from the manufacturer Continental. Air conditioner compressor belt AVX13X825.


We collect the bracket.


But we fasten it to the engine block with four bolts.




I will install the compressor later, after its restoration.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_140. ETK_11_Engine. Oil sump, oil measuring device

[URL='http://ru.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E30-4-doors/Europe/325i-M20/L-M/1985/browse/engine/oil_pan_oil_level_indicator/']Oil pan, oil gauge[/URL ]


I did not analyze anything here, so there is nothing to write about. But there is a nuance. :)



Part No. 1 - oil sump (11 13 1 720 754). I already boasted that after many years of driving on a low static suspension, my engine pan remained intact! :) I just cleaned and washed it. He did not paint. After all, it was not painted from the factory, so I left it like that.

Part #2 - sealing gasket (11 13 1 730 234) - was not removed.
Part #3 - bolt M6X20 (07 11 9 915 031) - was not removed.
Part #4 - rubber sleeve (12 61 1 276 240). Here is the same nuance! I bought it, but it turned out that it is not used on the E30.

I couldn't understand exactly where it goes... There are no holes for it anywhere.

And as it turned out, it is placed in part No. 5, which is used only on M30 engines.
Part No. 5 - protective shield (12 52 1 276 200). Not used.

The top hole is for this insert.

The sensor on the M30 is placed in the tray from below, so it is covered with a protective metal shield (No. 11 on the M30 diagram) so as not to cling to lying policemen. It is in that shield at the exit of the wire that there is a hole for this insert (#14 on the M30 diagram). Sensor and shield in M30 on 3 bolts.
On the M20, the sensor is on 2 bolts, so that shield together with this insert will not fit on the M20 in any way. Although, according to ETK, it also goes to M20 - this is a mistake.
Part No. 6 - M6 nut (07 11 9 905 543) - 2 pcs. There is an error in the quantity in ETK again.
Item No. 7 is not used.
Part No. 8 - pin M6X25 (07 12 9 908 100) - 2 pcs. There is an error in the quantity in ETK again.
Part #9 - oil level sensor (12 61 1 277 240). Before restyling with a round connector, after restyling with a square one.
Part No. 10 - ring of round section (12 61 1 277 602) - 1 pc. I bought it just in case, but I didn't change it. I don't see the point in this.
Part No. 11 is a plug instead of a sensor. Only for machines without a control system. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 12 - sealing ring A12X17-CU (07 11 9 963 151) - 1 pc. Copper.
Part #13 - threaded plug M12X1.5 (11 13 1 273 0930 - 1 pc. Plug for draining lubricant.
I haven't drained the old oil yet, so the plug is still in place.


The M8 bolt with washer is still visible in the photo. For some reason, it is not specified in the ETK - it is a bolt that is used to fasten the "ground" wire from the body to the engine.

P.S.
The intake manifold and valve cover are painted - now I can fully complete the engine assembly.


P.P.S
I am proud of the gift from my friends-teammates for my birthday! :)




The test drive was successful! :)


Then about pulleys and belts.

[The_Glory]

Collection_141. ETK_11_Engine. Damper of torsional vibrations V-belt drive. Fan drive clutch fan

V-belt drive torsional vibration damper




Part #1 - damper of torsional vibrations (11 23 1 708 852). A rubber band is glued around the damper, which has a label that duplicates the label on the crankshaft.

Part #2 - belt pulley D=116MM (11 23 1 280 958). It is used only in the presence of power steering and / or air conditioning.
Part No. 3 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 6 pcs.
Part #4 - bolt M8X16 (07 11 9 913 612) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 6...No. 11 - bolt and crankshaft gear. It was not filmed. I just cleaned them and painted them on the spot.
Part No. 12 - V-belt 9.5X965 (11 51 1 711 091). I already wrote about it in the section about the generator - I bought all the belts from the manufacturer Continental. AVX10X960 generator belt.

So, we screw the damper and the pulley to the crankshaft flange. There is a special hole on the damper, through which it is put on the pin - that is, it is impossible to put it incorrectly. I used a threaded lock on the bolts just in case.


The duplicate mark on the damper matches the duplicate mark on the lower cover.


The damper is installed.

Fan drive clutch fan




Part #1 - fan 11-blade D=410MM (11 52 1 723 363). Since my entire cooling system is restyled, the fan is also for restyled cars. Before restyling, a 9-blade fan D=420MM (11 52 1 273 086) was installed.
Part #2 - BEHR fan clutch (11 52 1 740 962).
Part No. 3 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 099) - 8 pcs.
Part No. 4 - bolt M6X16 (07 12 9 905 536) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 5 - bolt M6X10 (07 11 9 913 426) - 4 pcs.
Part #6 - belt pulley D=129MM B=9.7 (11 51 1 271 424).
Part No. 7 - flange (11 51 1 277 387). It is an integral part of the water pump.
Part #8 - clutch nut. It is an integral part of the clutch.

Screw the coupling to the fan. I used a threaded lock on the bolts just in case.


It is interesting that the blades on the fan are not located symmetrically, with a different step between them.


We screw the pulley to the water pump. I used a threaded lock on the bolts just in case.
We put on and tighten the pump and generator belt.


Since I haven't bought a new power steering pump yet, and I haven't restored the air conditioner compressor yet, accordingly, there is nowhere to put their belts either. Therefore, their pulley remains empty for now.
I immediately screwed on the metal tube of the cooling system, because it will be a bit inconvenient to do it on the car. I will write about it later, in the appropriate section. The tube is attached with two bolts. One to the top cover.


Second to the special "ear" on the water pump.


Now screw the coupling with the fan. Please note that there is a left-hand thread!


Next, about the intake manifold and valve cover.

[The_Glory]

Collection_142. ETK_11_Engine. Cylinder head cover. Crankcase ventilation system

Cylinder head cover


My valve cover was previously powder coated red. But the paint peeled off in places, so I tried to remove it completely, but it turned out to be not easy... There was no time then, so I just painted the surface with ordinary black paint. It didn't turn out very well, but that's how it drove all the time. The paint peeled off again and the lid looked something like this.


But inside it was quite clean.


Especially compared to the Jetronic cover I bought a long time ago.


It temporarily covered the head of the cylinder block - also red, "racing"! :)


I also had another cover for Motronic, not painted - I decided to install it. But it was also very dirty inside. Therefore, I decided to remove the plate riveted from the factory. And it's not for nothing - there's just horror under it!


I don't know what to put in the motor on which she was standing, but there is a lot of dirt and soot and it was very difficult to wash it...


Looking at this, I decided to remove that plate on my lid as well. It was much cleaner there, but still a lot of soot.


It was not easy to wash the lids - I washed them with a solvent, brushes, several times. Then sand it. It was very difficult to get the powder paint residue off my lid. But as a result, I did get two completely clean lids.


Now you need to install the plates. At the factory, the plates were not riveted with rivets, but simply riveted pins cast together with the cover. That's why there are no holes there. So, I drilled the holes and cut the M3 thread into them. Used M3 stainless steel washers, spring washers and screws. This is important because the contact of aluminum with ordinary steel causes chemical corrosion.
Just in case, for additional fixation of the screws, I used a thread lock.


done


I hope that these cogs do not unscrew and do not fall into the engine! :)


In terms of color, I had options - silver, black and blue;) Or not to paint at all, but aluminum oxidizes and dirt stains remain on it. That's why I decided to paint. I powder coated one cover silver and will later paint the other cover black with silver stripes and BMW lettering. And the third one for Jetronic, maybe for an experiment, I will paint it in the color of the body ;)
And for now - a classic!


Part #1 - sealing gasket (11 12 1 730 271). I use the Elring 774693 gasket.
Part #2 - cylinder head cover (11 12 1 713 116). As I wrote above, they differ for Jetronic and for Motronic by the mounting of the intake manifold brackets. Although, all M20B25 engines are Motronic, but the cover is also Jetronic, only without the manifold bracket.
Part No. 3 - oil filler cap (11 12 1 716 993). I have two covers and both are not quite for the E30. One round metal from older "sharks" E21, E23, E28. The second square plastic one from newer E32, E34, E36. I don't really like the original cover for the E30 because it reminds me of a gas stove handle. :) Therefore, most likely, I will leave the square plastic one.

Part #4 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 9 156 628) - 8 pcs.
Part No. 5 - elastic washer B6 (07 11 9 932 099) - 8 pcs.

I didn't screw the cap on because the valves will still need to be adjusted before starting the engine.



Crankcase ventilation system




Part #1 - pipeline (11 42 1 265 376). It was not filmed.

Part #2 - clamp L16-30 (64 21 8 367 179) - 1 pc.
Part #3 - hose (11 15 1 708 801). I recently replaced it with a new Febi 12554.
Part #4 - clamp L18-24 (07 12 9 952 109) - 1 pc.

I will install the hose after installing the intake manifold and throttle.




Next, about the intake manifold.

[The_Glory]

Collection_143. ETK_11_Engine. Intake system

Intake system


I already wrote about the painting of the valve cover, but the story with the intake manifold was even more complicated... It was also, before me, painted with powder paint, in an equally "racing" yellow color! :) But in 24 years, the paint also began to peel off in places...


The experience of sandblasting the valve cover showed that it is very difficult to remove the powder paint even on a flat surface, not to mention all the "tricks" on the collector. Therefore, sandblasting is not an option. Peeling by hand is especially not an option. I already wanted to buy another collector, not painted. But then I was advised to try a paint wash - just like the one in the photo. Tried it - there is an effect!


Brushed the entire collector with that wash, and after about 15-20 minutes I got this picture - it's just cancer of the collector! :)


The paint was removed like a film - the result is quite good!


The remaining paint was processed again and removed manually with a metal brush. Also cleaned with a brush and washed the collector inside.


done


Now sandblast and the collector looks like new!


You can not paint. But the surface is porous and over time it will get dirty with dust and dirt. Therefore, I still decided to paint it with powder paint in silver color.






Part #1 - intake manifold (11 61 1 289 210). In fact, the number is slightly different (11 61 1 289 211), which is not in ETK - another mystery..

Part #2 - sealing gasket (11 61 1 726 012) - 1 pc. I use VICTOR REINZ 712703810 spacers
Part No. 3 - sealing gasket (11 61 1 726 010) - 4 pcs. I use VICTOR REINZ 712703710 spacers

Part No. 4 - sealing gasket (11 61 1 717 286) - 1 pc. I did not really like the price of the original gasket, and I did not find any analogues. That's why I cut it myself.
Part No. 5 - cover (11 61 1 708 858).
Part No. 6 - bolt M6X25 (07 11 9 919 926) - 3 pcs. Why is the quantity 1 pc indicated in ETK? - I do not understand.

Part No. 7...No. 10 is not used. These are parts for Jetronic.
Part No. 11 - spacer washer 6.4 (07 11 9 936 425) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 12 - bolt M6X16 (07 12 9 905 536) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 13 - elastic washer B8 (07 11 9 932 095) - 12 pcs.
Part No. 14 - M8 nut (11 61 1 713 432) - 12 pcs.

Part No. 15 - pin M6X35 (07 12 9 908 103) - 4 pcs. Throttle mounting.

Part #17 - not used.
Part No. 16 - bracket (11 61 1 277 431). Fastening the accelerator cable.
Part No. 18 - bolt M6X16 (07 11 9 904 357) - 3 pcs.

Part #19, #20 - not used.
Part No. 21 - pin M6X30 (07 12 9 908 102) - 2 pcs. Fastening of the wiring bracket.
Part No. 22 - pin M8X28 (07 12 9 908 147) - 1 pc. Fastening of the bracket of the diagnostic connector.
Part No. 23 - bracket (11 61 1 708 838). Additional mounting of the collector.
Part No. 24 - cap D=5.0MM (11 61 1 437 694) - 1 pc. It is put as a plug on earlier #5 covers for an additional outlet. I have a cover without an additional tap, so it is not used in my case.

Screw the bracket (#23) to the valve cover. We install the manifold gaskets.


To install the collector on the pins, and at the same time insert the crankcase ventilation tube with a spring into it, you need either an assistant or a third hand! :) I didn't have either, so I had to use materials at hand - a thin wire for a spring tie. So you can fully insert the tube, put rubber rings on it, and put the collector on it.


Then we pull out the wire and the tube is supported by a spring.


We screw the bracket (#16)


On the other hand, install the cover (No. 5) through the gasket (No. 4), and fix the collector to the bracket (No. 23)


I did not tighten these bolts, as it will be necessary to remove the cover to adjust the valves.

The collector is installed - now it is already something like an M20! :)

[The_Glory]

Collection_144. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. High voltage wire. Spark plugs

The engine is almost assembled, it remains to wait for a few new parts to it. Therefore, let's move on to the ETK section

Engine electrical equipment

Let's start with the subdivision
High voltage wire




Part No. 1 - High voltage wire cylinder No. 1 (12 12 1 710 631) - 1pc.
Part #1 - High voltage wire cylinder #2 (12 12 1 710 632) - 1pc.
Part No. 1 - High voltage wire cylinder No. 3 (12 12 1 710 633) - 1 pc.
Part No. 1 - High voltage wire cylinder No. 4 (12 12 1 710 634) - 1pc.
Part No. 1 - High voltage wire cylinder No. 5 (12 12 1 710 635) - 1pc.
Part #2 - High voltage wire cylinder #6 (12 12 1 717 375) - 1pc. With a pulse sensor of the position of the camshaft.
Part No. 3 - Central high voltage wire T1KL4 (12 12 1 720 601) - 1pc. Wire to the ignition coil with a protective rubber cover.

I have a set of BOSCH wires. They are in good condition and their resistance is as rated. Somewhere on the Internet I found information that the high-voltage wires for the M20B25 should have a resistance of about 6 kΩ, and the central wire should have a resistance of 2 kΩ. The results of my measurements are similar - the top row of numbers:


By the way, there is an interesting original option - "Jute of high voltage wires with protection against rodents"! :)

Harness high voltage with rodent protection


This is a set of high-voltage wires with protective plastic rings on them, and an additional plastic cover. Apparently they are made of plastic, which rodents do not like the taste of! :)


Part No. 1 - High voltage wiring harness with rodent protection (12 12 1 735 217). No longer available to order.
Manufacturer of wires

In addition to protection against rodents, I discovered another interesting thing - the resistance of these wires is much lower - only 1kΩ (bottom row of numbers). I heard something about low resistance wires - could that be them? I don't think it's a coincidence, because the four wires have the same indicators. The last two wires are obviously broken. And in general, their condition is bad. I took them, hoping to rearrange the plastic rings on my wires - to replenish my collection of original options ;) But for this, the wires will have to be cut and the contacts re-crimped. Didn't do it. Maybe later I will try to cut the rings and rearrange them in this way.


The plastic cover can be ordered only complete with wires. It has a number on it (12 12 1 735 181), but for some reason such a number is not in ETK. Therefore, it will not be possible to order it separately.


This cover fits well with the standard cover.


Spark plugs




Part #1 - spark plug BOSCH W7 DCR (12 12 9 061 871) - 6 pcs.
Part #2 - a kit for 4-cylinder engines. Not available to order.
Part #3 - a kit for 6-cylinder engines. Not available to order.

I always use NGK ZGR5A spark plugs.


High voltage wiring harness




Part No. 1 - high voltage wiring harness (12 12 1 710 664). The set includes all parts, except for parts No. 12...No. 15.
Part #2 - cable (12 12 1 719 889). Plastic pencil case for wiring.
Part #3 - high voltage wire (12 12 1 705 675). Probably sold by the meter.
Part #4 - marking ring cylinder #1 (12 12 1 706 186) - 1 pc.
Part #4 - marking ring cylinder #2 (12 12 1 706 187) - 1 pc.
Part #4 - marking ring cylinder #3 (12 12 1 706 188) - 1 pc.
Part #4 - marking ring cylinder #4 (12 12 1 706 189) - 1 pc.
Part #4 - marking ring cylinder #5 (12 12 1 706 190) - 1 pc.
Part #4 - marking ring cylinder #6 (12 12 1 706 191) - 1 pc. Plastic tags on the wire with the corresponding number. My wires are marked, so I have not ordered these tags yet.

Maybe I'll order one later, for beauty, although they won't be visible under the lids anyway :)
Part No. 5 - cylindrical connector (12 12 1 705 656) - 14 pcs.
Part No. 6 - KBB 1000-OHM interference-suppressing plug (12 12 1 289 829) - 7 pcs.
Part No. 7 - 1000-OHM interference-suppressing plug (12 12 1 289 825) - 1 pc.
Part #8 - 5000-OHM spark plug wire tip (12 12 1 289 821) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 9 - rubber sleeve (12 12 1 710 584) - 1 pc. Instead, I will install an additional plastic "rodent protection" cover. She looks more beautiful.
Part No. 10 - protective cap (12 12 1 284 464) - 1 pc. Rubber cover for the ignition coil.
Part #11 - not used.
Part No. 12 - ignition distributor cover (12 11 1 715 905). Comes complete with plastic cover, bolts and washers for mounting.

Part No. 13 - ignition distributor rotor (12 11 1 715 906). Comes complete with bolts and washers for mounting.

Part No. 14 - cover (12 11 1 287 718). Protective plastic cover of the camshaft gear.
Part No. 15 - protective cap (12 11 1 710 553) - 1 pc. Plastic cover.
Part #16 - spark plug BOSCH W8DC (12 12 1 276 283) - 6 pcs. As I said, I always use NGK ZGR5A spark plugs.

So, we put on a plastic cover, insert bolts with washers into the cover and the rotor.


Insert the plastic gear cover and fasten the rotor with three screws.


We fasten the cover with three bolts.


Carefully and tightly place the wires in a plastic case, according to their number and length. Align their ends and close the pencil case with a lid. The pencil case is screwed with two nuts to the studs, together with the valve cover.
Because of the damned Muscovites, the lights were turned off again, so we had to install the wires already in the dark...
The cover (#15) snaps onto the lower plastic cover. Then a plastic "rodent protection" cover is put on the pencil case (#2) and the lid (#15).




The appearance with it is much better, although it somehow did not become very tight. It will be necessary to somehow press it a little.




High voltage wires are installed.


It remains to fasten several brackets for wiring, and lay the wire of the impulse sensor of the sixth cylinder.

[The_Glory]

Collection_145. ETK_12_Engine electrical equipment. Wire harness fastening elements (part 1)

Harness fixings



There is some confusion with numbers and details, but I will try to figure it out somehow.



Part #1 - diagnostic connector plug holder (12 52 1 714 132) - 1 pc. Installed since 1986. Since I have an 86 motor wiring, the holder is also later.
Part #2 - not used. Although the picture looks like an oil dipstick tube bracket.
Part No. 3 - plate (12 14 1 269 699) - 1 pc. Not available to order. I don't know what it is, I probably don't have one. If anyone knows, I would be grateful for the information.
Part No. 4 - plate (12 42 1 289 510) - 1 pc. Not available to order. I don't know what it is, I probably don't have one. If anyone knows, I would be grateful for the information.
Item No. 5 is not used. But there is a mistake here.
Part No. 6 - bracket (12 52 1 711 228) - 1 pc. In fact, judging by the photo, this is part #5. Bracket for motor wiring. It is installed under the hood, on the shield of the interior heater fan niche.
Part No. 7 - bracket (12 52 1 285 040) - 1 pc. I don't know what it is, I probably don't have one. It looks like a connector holder for ABS or Airbag sensors.
Part #8 - bracket (12 52 1 714 333) - 1 pc. "Ground" terminal on the right support of the body.
Part #9 - not used.
Part No. 10 - bracket (12 52 1 719 510) - 1 pc. Bracket for motor wiring. It is installed under the intake manifold.
Part No. 11 - bracket (12 52 1 288 127) - 1 pc. Not available to order. But there is a mistake.
Part No. 12 - bracket (12 52 1 719 521) - 1 pc. In fact, judging by the photo, this is part #11. I don't know what it is, I probably don't have one. If anyone knows, I will be grateful for the information.
Part No. 13 - ground wire 235MM (12 51 1 714 039) - 1 pc. In fact, judging by the photo, this is part #14. I already wrote about it earlier - the wire to the "mass" of the engine.
Part #14 - not used. But there is a mistake.

In this part, I will write only about parts #1, #5 and #10, because they are installed on the engine. I will write about other details after installing the engine on the car.

So, the bracket (#10) is screwed with two M6 nuts to the studs on the intake manifold.


Together with it, the bracket for the oil dipstick tube, which I already wrote about earlier, is fixed to the front stud.


This bracket serves to fix the engine wiring and cooling system hoses. About this in the corresponding section.


The bracket (#1) is screwed with an M8 nut to the upper stud on the intake manifold.


The plug of the crankshaft position sensor is fixed in it.


The plug of the pulse sensor of the position of the camshaft is also fixed there.




I routed the two wires together behind the pulleys, but I guess that's not right. After installing the cooling system hoses I will check it. If I was wrong, I will write about it later.

Next, I will install the throttle.


P.S.
I installed an alarm with a magnetic lock a long time ago, but I did not install the lock itself, because for some reason the paint did not stick to its coating. Finally, I solved this problem - sandblasting, priming and painting. Now the paint is holding up well.


And finally I installed it. The cover of the lock with the diode is inserted through the rubber gasket from the outside, and the lock from the middle. Then it is fixed with an elastic clamp.


We connect to the door wiring, fix the plug with a clamp.


Now everything is installed.


Two locks! ;)

[The_Glory]

Collection_146. ETK_13_Preparation and adjustment of the working mixture. Throttle body

Throttle body




Almost all throttle parts are no longer available to order, so it is important not to lose them.
Part #1 - throttle body (13 54 1 707 730). I cleaned the case well, did not paint it. It comes complete with flanges for hoses, which often no longer hold in the housing. I fixed them with gasket sealant.

Part #2 - drive lever (13 54 1 714 174).
Part No. 3 - spring (13 54 1 717 027) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - sleeve (13 54 1 714 176) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 5 - spacer washer 19X8X0.1 (13 54 1 256 344) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - elastic washer (13 54 1 714 204) - 1 pc.
Part No. 7 - locking washer 8.4X13 (13 54 1 267 663) - 1 pc.
Part #8 - nut M8X1 (13 54 1 267 664) - 1 pc.
Part No. 9 - spring (13 54 1 717 028) - 1 pc.
Part No. 10 - sleeve (13 54 1 714 178) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - sleeve (13 54 1 714 177) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 12 - elastic washer (13 54 1 714 204) - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - locking washer 7.0 (07 11 9 905 858) - 1 pc.

Part No. 14 - spacer washer 13.5X8X0.5 (13 54 1 256 351) - 1 pc. I did not remove the axis, so it remained on the case.
Part No. 15 - retaining ring 8X0.8 (07 11 9 934 034) - 1 pc. I did not remove the axis, so it remained on the case.
Part No. 16 - mounting pin (13 54 1 278 976) - 1 pc. I did not remove it, so it remained on the case.
Part No. 17 - cap D=4.7MM (13 54 1 278 977) - 1 pc. No longer available to order, so I just picked up something similar in size.
Part No. 18 - screw (13 54 1 714 186) - 1 pc. I did not remove it, so it remained on the case.
Part No. 19 - ring of round cross-section (13 54 1 711 026) - 1 pc. I did not remove it, so it remained on the case.
Part #20 - BLAU cap (13 54 1 713 477) - 1 pc. No longer available to order, so I just picked up something similar in size.

Part No. 21 - sealing gasket (13 54 1 285 471) - 1 pc. I did not remove it, so it remained on the case.
Part No. 22 - cover (13 54 1 711 042) - 1 pc. I did not remove it, so it remained on the case.
Part No. 23 - bolt M4 TX20 8.8 (13 54 1 705 561) - 3 pcs. I did not remove them, so they remained on the case.

Part No. 24 - throttle position sensor (13 63 1 710 559). Took it apart, cleaned it, lubricated the contacts.
Part #25 - bolt M4 X 9.2 (13 54 1 705 562) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 26 - cap D=7.0MM (11 61 1 727 176) - 1 pc. Judging by its size and photo, this cap is used as a plug for the throttle body flange on machines without a carbon adsorber. In my case, the hose from the adsorber is put there, so the cap is not used.
Part No. 27 - gasket (13 54 1 289 576) - 1 pc. I cut it myself.
Part No. 28 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 9 156 628) - 4 pcs. Fastening the damper body to the collector.
Part No. 29 - accelerator pedal cable support SCHWARZ (13 54 1 747 519) - 1 pc. It is already installed on the car together with the cable.

In ETK, for some reason, there is another section on the throttle - a more coarse-grained one:
Throttle body




Part #1 - throttle body assembly (13 54 1 716 065).
Part #2 - throttle position sensor (13 63 1 710 559).
Part #3 - bolt M4 X 9.2 (13 54 1 705 562) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 4 - cover (13 54 1 711 042) - 1 pc. I did not remove it, so it remained on the case.
Part No. 5 - sealing gasket (13 54 1 285 471) - 1 pc. I did not remove it, so it remained on the case.
Part #6 - bolt M4 TX20 8.8 (13 54 1 705 561) - 3 pcs. I did not remove them, so they remained on the case.
Part No. 7 - cap D=7.0MM (11 61 1 727 176) - 1 pc. Judging by its size and photo, this cap is used as a plug for the throttle body flange on machines without a carbon adsorber. In my case, the hose from the adsorber is put there, so the cap is not used.
Part No. 8 - gasket (13 54 1 289 576) - 1 pc. I cut it myself.
Part #9 - nut with washer M6 (07 14 9 156 628) - 4 pcs. Fastening the damper body to the collector.
Part No. 10 - accelerator pedal cable support SCHWARZ (13 54 1 747 519) - 1 pc. It is already installed on the car together with the cable.

So, we collect all the parts of the lever, according to the scheme.




We install the sensor.


It must be adjusted on the axis so that in the extreme position of the closed flap, contacts 2 and 18 are closed, and in the extreme position of the open flap, contacts 3 and 18 are closed. I have this extreme position counterclockwise along the adjustment grooves.


After installing the throttle on the intake manifold, it will be very inconvenient to adjust. Therefore, it is better to do this before installing it.
Now you can screw the throttle to the collector, through the gasket, and connect the crankcase ventilation hose to it.






It remains only to install the hoses of the cooling system, but you need to wait until some parts for their fastening arrive.
In the meantime, I will prepare the gearbox and clutch for installation.

[The_Glory]

Collection_148. ETK_21_Clutch. Clutch

I wrote about the installation of the clutch drive a long time ago, and now it's time to write about the clutch itself.
Let's go to the ETK section
Clutch

Unit
Clutch


All the clutch parts were replaced earlier during the engine overhaul, so they are in excellent condition. So, the work is purely cosmetic - cleaning, washing, painting, galvanizing.



Part No. 1 - pressure disc D=228MM (21 21 1 223 026) - 1 pc. I am using SACHS 3082001454.

Part #2 - driven disk D=228MM (21 21 1 223 097) - 1 pc. I am using SACHS 1861661133.

Part No. 3 - release bearing lever (21 51 1 204 229) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - release bearing (21 51 7 521 471) - 1 pc. I am using SACHS 3151231031.
Part No. 5 - sleeve H=15MM (21 51 1 202 659) - 1 pc. I did not remove it from the manual transmission housing.

Part No. 6 - bracket (21 51 1 204 327) - 1 pc. Lever attachment.

Part No. 7 - bolt (07 11 9 919 939) - 6 pcs.
Part No. 8, No. 9 - not used.
Part #10 - set of clutch parts D=228MM (21 21 1 223 102). This is probably the original repair kit.

So the main parts of the SACHS are in excellent condition, so I just cleaned everything. The thickness of the disc is like a new one.


But it is necessary to center it somehow. I do not have the original tool, and it is not advisable to buy it for one-time use. Maybe then I'll make a homemade one. And now I used improvised means - a 12mm drill and a 16mm head;)


The 16mm head fits almost perfectly into the disc hole. By the way, on the disk it is written in German - "gearbox side". In order not to make a mistake, install the disc with the correct side.


A 12 mm drill bit fits perfectly into the hole of the head.


Also, a 12mm drill fits perfectly into the flywheel bearing hole. We insert the drill, put the head on it - and the "special tool" is ready! ;)


We put a disc on it.


And we fasten the pressure disk, tightening the bolts evenly. I used a thread lock for the bolts.


The clutch is installed.
Now we install the clutch parts in the manual transmission housing.
We fasten the new clutch cylinder with two M8 nuts.




We install the lever and the release bearing. We slightly lubricate the places of their contact.


We fix the lever with a clamp in the holes of the manual transmission housing.


Now the gearbox and clutch are completely ready for installation on the car.


The car is also ready! Finally, I wheeled her to the floor! :)


Everything is ready....almost....waiting for small details...

[Mazi!]

Really fun to watch this from you!

when do you think it will drive for first time?

[The_Glory]

Really fun to watch this from you!

when do you think it will drive for first time?

It's hard to plan anything during a war...
First of all, because of the damn Muscovites, I have had problems with work for the third year already, and for the last 5 months I have been completely without a job, and accordingly, without a salary. But any project needs stable financing, so everything is delayed...
Secondly, because of the damned Muscovites, now we have electricity available for only a few hours a day, and even at night. My garage is in the basement of my house, so I can't do anything in the dark. This delays even more…
Thirdly, because of the damned Muscovites, there is now an active military mobilization, and every day there is a possibility that they will be sent to the front. In this case, it is not at all known what and how it will end... it may never end at all...
That's why I haven't set any "dead lines" for a long time - it will be as it will be...

[The_Glory]

Collection_149. ETK_11_Engine. Cooling system water hose

For 1985 it should look like this:
Cooling system water hose


But on my car, the entire cooling system was installed with an E34 M20B25. Including a radiator with a built-in expansion tank. Its lower fastening was self-made. Now I have the stock restyling mount installed, and accordingly, the radiator will be fixed with the stock mount. The radiator will be larger, for the air conditioner. So I see no point in going back to the 1985 cooling system. Moreover, even visually, that expansion tank looks too archaic for me. And I can't install the restyling expansion tank, because another interesting tank already stands in that place, but more on that later.
Finally, all the little things have arrived, and you can continue assembling the engine.


So, the M20B25 E30 cooling system is similar to the M20B25 E34. Maybe someone will say that this is a "kolkhoz", but I will say that this is an "upgrade"! :)
Cooling system water hose




Part No. 1 - water hose (11 53 1 287 651) - 1 pc.
Part No. 2 (No. 5) - clamp L42-48 (07 12 9 952 119) - 2 pcs.
Part #3 - hose holder (11 53 1 714 433) - 1 pc.

Part No. 4 - water hose (11 53 1 722 214) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 (No. 2) - clamp L42-48 (07 12 9 952 119) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 6 - clamp L37-43 (07 12 9 952 117) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 7 - water hose (11 53 1 722 486) - 1 pc.
Part No. 8 - tube (11 53 1 719 788) - 1 pc.
Part #9 - bolt M6X16 (07 11 9 904 357) - 1 pc.
Part No. 10 - bolt with washer M6X16 (07 11 9 915 123) - 1 pc.

Part No. 11 - water hose D=45MM (11 53 1 718 982) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - supply hose (64 24 1 374 911) - 1 pc. Supply to the interior heater. This hose is from E30.
Part No. 13 - return hose (11 53 1 720 524) - 1 pc. Return from the interior heater. This hose is from the E34.
Part No. 14 - clamp L28-33 (07 12 9 952 113) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 15 - clamp L16-30 (64 21 8 367 179) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 16 - clamp D=24.5MM (61 13 1 379 580) - 2 pcs. Plastic clamp for interior heater hoses.
Part No. 17 - bandage 120MM (61 13 1 379 580) - 2 pcs. Plastic strap for the hose (#13) of the interior heater. It is inserted into the holes on the left spar of the restyling body. My body does not have these holes, so this part is not used in my case. Instead of them, I will use a metal bracket for the restyled body.
Detail No. 5 on the first diagram for 1985 - bracket (11 53 1 279 946) - 1 pc.

Part No. 18 - water hose (13 54 1 705 568) - 1 pc. Supply for heating the throttle. This hose is from E30.
Part No. 19 - water hose (13 54 1 289 976) - 1 pc. Throttle heating return. This hose is from E30.
Part No. 20 - clamp L15-18 (11 15 1 727 509) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 21 - wire holder (61 13 1 378 529) - 2 pcs. Plastic clamp for throttle heating hoses.
Part No. 22 - hose holder (12 51 1 309 471) - 1 pc. Plastic clamp for interior heater hoses. For restyling E30.


I installed the metal tube (#8) earlier, along with the water pump pulley.


By the way, it was because of its attachment to the pump that the pump itself had to be changed. Because before the restyling, the pump did not have this attachment.


I start installing the hoses with the interior heater hoses.
By the way, in the ETK section on heating and air conditioning, there is a separate section on these hoses.
Additional water pump / water hose




Part No. 1 - return hose (11 53 1 720 524) - 1 pc. Return from the interior heater. This hose is from the E34.
Part No. 2 - supply hose (64 21 1 380 527) - 1 pc. Supply to the interior heater. This hose is from E30.
Part #3 - clamp L28-33 (07 12 9 952 113) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 3 - clamp L16-30 (64 21 8 367 179) - 2 pcs.
All other parts for M20B25 are not used.

All hoses are original and in good condition, so I don't see the point in changing them to new Chinese ones that crack after a year... All clamps are also original, some are old, some are new.
So, I start with the interior heater hoses. On the flange of the cylinder head, we install the supply hose to the interior heater radiator.


We lay the T-shaped return hose from the interior heater radiator to the main radiator and thermostat.


We install two plastic clamps (#16) on the metal bracket and fix the hose in them.




The hose will go to the radiator along the left spar.


There it will be fixed with a metal bracket to the spar.




Next, we lay the throttle heating hoses.


We screw them to the throttle flanges.


On the flange of the cylinder block, we install the supply hose for heating the throttle.




We install two plastic clamps (#21) on the metal bracket and fix the hoses in them.


We screw the return hose from the throttle heating to the lower flange of the thermostat.


We fix the hose in a plastic clamp (#21).


So far, I have installed the plastic hose holder (#22) like this - on the oil dipstick tube.


I'm not sure how it should be, but I have no other ideas :) Maybe after installing the engine, that holder can be used to fix the fuel hose... I don't know. I'll see you later.

Let's move on to the main hoses of the cooling system.
Install the hose holder (#3). It is inserted into the hole on the bracket and fixed with a pin.


I already wrote that I laid the wire from the impulse sensor of cylinder 6 together with the wire of the crankshaft position sensor. Well, that's not right! There is a special eyelet for this wire on the slag holder. I had to extract it, then translate it correctly.


Next, we fix it in a rubber shield


And we take it to the bracket.


We install the hose and fix it in the holder.


We screw the hoses to the water pump and tube.


But to the thermostat.


All hoses of the cooling system are installed.


Next, about the engine suspension.