E30 from Ukraine - "Shadow of Intelligence"

[The_Glory]

Collection_86. ETK_51_Body equipment. (part 2) Sound insulation

I wrote about the noise insulation of the body a long time ago, but in addition to the noise insulation of the floor, since at that time the wiring had not yet been laid.
So, I will continue this section.
Sound insulation





Until 1985, the sound insulation of the bottom was separate from the decorative carpet.
In this section, it remains to establish these two details.
Part No. 5 - sound insulation of the front bottom (51 48 1 916 533)
Part No. 6 - soundproofing of the rear bottom (51 48 1 906 357)

It is no longer available for order, and it is very difficult to find it in good condition. So I restored mine as best I could.
The front one had many cracks on the driver's side.


The cracks on the right are much smaller.


The condition of the back part was pretty bad, but I couldn't find a better one.


Therefore, I simply pasted a new soundproofing made of the same material on top of it.


I have already tried to seal the cracks in the front part with reinforced tape, but it did not help much. Therefore, this time I decided to seal it with construction sealing tape - I even picked up a similar color in a hardware store :)


It turned out not bad enough, in my opinion. I heated it a little with a hair dryer in places - it stuck very well.




Through special holes we remove the nozzles of the heater - from the front and under the front seats.




Sound insulation of the bottom is installed.


Now you can lay the carpet.

[The_Glory]

Blue Salon

So, it's time to lay the carpet and install interior details. And at this stage, out of nowhere, I suddenly had an idea - to assemble a blue interior - to match the color of the car! The idea seemed very good to me, and I began to look for parts of the original blue PACIFIC interior, which was installed on cars before 1985.
The carpet was found first. Although, in the photo, at first it seemed to me to be gray, not blue... and not by chance... I had to think better even then, but the idea of a blue interior won over common sense, and I bought it! :)


The carpet is not in perfect condition, but it is probably the best of the blue ones I have seen on sale. I compared it with my black ANTHRAZIT carpet - there is still a difference... it seems a bit like blue... :)


But, you need to wash and clean it well.


Now it looks more like blue! :) Although, in some places, spots remained... and under the pedals, it is simply already worn and worn.


Then there were 0212 PACIFIC blue door panels with houndstooth fabric inserts. Just what you need for a 1985 325i. In my opinion, houndstooth is one of the best fabric textures for the E30. The door trims are also not in perfect condition and have some blemishes, but I bought them as well. After cleaning, their appearance also became much better.


There is also an option to buy blue skins without fabric inserts. It will be easier to choose a seat with any fabric texture for them. ;)
An interesting nuance - all the blue door panels that I saw on sale here were sold with black pockets. Amazingly. But when I did find the blue pockets, I understood why it was so. Blue pockets, in contrast to black, gray, beige, brown and green, in 30-40 years almost completely lose their color and become almost white! Perhaps this is explained by the different quality of the dye for plastic... or I don't know what...


By the way, I also accidentally bought a blue door handle frame. Colored frames were on E23 and E28. And on the E30, there were only black ones, except for convertibles, which also had red and beige ones.
The inside of the pocket remained blue, as did the frame. And the outer side is very "burnt" in the sun.


And the door handles kept their color well. The difference is simply huge.


Later I bought another pair of blue pockets - they look a little better, but also almost completely discolored. Perhaps they need to be polished, or in extreme cases, painted.


Another interesting detail - in ETK, pockets of different colors have different numbers, but in fact, regardless of the color, the same number is indicated on the pockets! The upper one is black, the lower one is blue - 1 906 204. And there is no such number in ETK at all! Surprisingly! :)


And one more detail - some pockets are attached with self-tapping screws, and some with screws in threaded bushings. This is also not listed in ETK for some reason.


The most difficult part of the task remained - to find whole blue seats... And then I finally understood that the idea of assembling a blue interior is doomed to failure! :)
Everything I saw for sale looked something like this, or much worse:


In addition, I did not find blue "crow's-foot" seats at all. But I came to the conclusion that almost all colored E30 seats turn gray after 30-40 years of operation! :) I will definitely not install the seat in this condition in my car...
So, after comparing the assembled parts of the blue interior with my parts of the black interior...


...I've decided to shelve this crazy blue interior idea indefinitely and install my black interior! :)


I will write about this next time.

[The_Glory]

Collection_87. ETK_51_Body equipment. Bottom lining

Finally, it came to the interior assembly!
I already wrote about the not very successful idea with the blue interior :)
According to the factory configuration, my car had a green interior PINIENGRUEN (0149). Of all the colors available for the E30, it is my least favorite. It's also a good thing that the previous owner replaced it with an ANTHRAZIT (0211) black interior.

Underfloor trim



As I wrote before, before 1985 the carpet and soundproofing were separate parts, and after 1985 it was one unit. Therefore, the earlier version of the carpet is easier to clean and dry. There are many carpet numbers in ETK, depending on the year of production and color, but in terms of shape and size they are all the same and interchangeable for all 2 and 4 door sedans and touring cars. But of course, the early version should be installed only with appropriate sound insulation. And to install the late version instead of the early one, you need to remove it, since the noise insulation is combined with the carpet on the late version.
Accordingly, I have an early version of the carpet.


Detail #1 - lining of the bottom
Detail #2 - lining of the seat frame

The color is black ANTHRAZIT - in fact, it is dark gray. We will lay it on top of the installed sound insulation.


After buying the car, the back of the carpet was brown for some reason. I replaced it with a gray one a long time ago. But it turned out that the gray carpet can have a different shade, depending on the year of manufacture and model. The fabric itself also has a different texture and pile. After dry cleaning, the difference became more noticeable... Moreover, in the photo, the difference can be seen much better than in real life. Maybe later I'll find a backing that's the same texture as the main rug, but for now I'll leave it that way. In reality, the difference is not very noticeable ;)




Through special holes, we remove the front blower nozzles and the nozzles under the front seats. We also bring to the surface all the wiring for buttons and seat heating.


The carpet in the salon immediately became more comfortable :)

[The_Glory]

Collection_88. ETK_51_Body equipment. Side panels and cladding

The carpet around the perimeter needs to be fixed with overlays.

Side trims and trims







Part #1 - left bar (51 43 1 884 375) and right bar (51 43 1 884 376). It is used only if there is a ceiling panel. Without the ceiling panel, these slats have a different top shape. I used to have them different, but now I replaced the left one with the right one.
Upper ordinary, lower under the ceiling panel:


Part #2 - bracket (51 43 1 922 789) - 2 pcs. Insert plate for lower fastening of slats No. 1.
Part No. 3 - bracket (51 43 1 881 429) - 2 pcs. Clips for upper fastening of slats No. 1.

Insert plate No. 2 and clip No. 1 are inserted into the grooves on the bar. Often they are broken. The plate is inserted into the lower hole on the body strut and is clipped into the upper hole on the body strut.


By the way, it is not clear why there is a hole with a thread similar to the thread for seat belt bolts in the middle of the body strut. What can be attached there?


The edge of the slat covering is inserted under the door seal and pressed against it.


The bar is installed.


Detail No. 4 - window frame lining left (51 41 1 906 475) and right (51 41 1 906 476)
Part No. 5 - bracket (51 41 1 906 485) - 6 pcs.


Staples No. 5 are inserted into the front door rack, 3 pcs. on each side.


Pads No. 4 are tightly inserted into staples No. 5.


Detail No. 6 - cladding of the middle left (51 43 1 933 731) and right (51 43 1 933 732) rack. Usually black, but in the exclusive Edition configuration there were INDIGO blue or SILBER gray.
Part #7 - left (51 43 1 916 681) and right (51 43 1 916 682) cover
Part No. 8 - plug (51 44 1 854 624) - 4 pcs. Clip for lower attachment of part No. 6. Can be replaced by item #15.
Part No. 15 - rivet with spacer sleeve (51 47 1 919 209) - 4 pcs. Clip for lower attachment of part No. 6. Can be replaced by part #8.


Part No. 16 - bracket (51 47 1 933 985) - 2 pcs. For fixing the wiring under the cladding of the rack.


Part No. 17 - threaded plug (51 71 1 913 007) - 2 pcs. There are two threaded holes for fastening the seat belt on the body rack. By default, the belt is screwed into the upper hole. When replacing the belt in the lower hole, you need to cut an additional hole in the lining according to the factory markings. At the same time, the factory top hole is closed with this threaded plug. I'm not going to rearrange the belts, so I don't have this part. It looks like this (photo from the Internet):


To install the rack lining, you need to unscrew the upper fastening of the seat belt, and pull it through the hole in the overlay. Plastic hooks glued to it are used to fix the lining. They are often already broken, as in my case. You cannot order them separately, but you can print them on a 3D printer. You need 2 pcs. on each pad. In the photo, the old hook is broken, and the new ones.


We glue them in the right places, at the same time I also glued sound insulation on these overlays and the edges of the cladding. We insert the overlay with hooks into the holes in the body rack and move it up until it is fixed. At the bottom, we press the carpet with an overlay and insert two bottom clips #15 (or #8). We insert cover No. 7 into the hole for the seat belt and screw its upper fastening. The lining of the racks is installed.


Part No. 9 - threshold cover front inner (51 47 1 904 595) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - front outer threshold cover (51 47 1 904 641) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - threshold cover rear inner left 51 47 1 933 557) - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - threshold cover rear inner right 51 47 1 933 558) - 1 pc
Part No. 12 - threshold cover, rear outer left (51 47 1 904 645) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - threshold cover, rear outer left (51 47 1 904 646) - 1 pc.



External door sill plates with the M TECHNIC logo were available as an option. They look very beautiful, they are very expensive, they are very rare :)
Part No. 10 - threshold cover front outer M TECHNIC (51 47 2 230 812) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 12 - threshold cover, rear outer left M TECHNIC (51 47 2 230 813) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - threshold cover rear outer right M TECHNIC (51 47 2 230 814) - 1 pc.

Photo from the Internet:


Part No. 13 - bracket (51 47 1 840 961) - 16 pcs. A clip for fastening the inner linings of the threshold. 5 pieces each on the front pads and 3 pcs. on the rear pads.
Part No. 14 - bracket (51 47 1 840 960) - 14 pcs. A clip for fastening the external linings of the threshold. 4 pieces each on the front pads and 3 pcs. on the rear pads.
Part No. 18 - bracket (51 47 1 840 961) Clip for fastening the inner linings of the threshold. Parts #13 and #18 have the same number, that is, they are one and the same part. I do not understand why it is indicated twice.

I cleaned and polished all the pads before installation.


Installation is very simple - we insert the clips into the groove of the lining and snap them into the holes in the body. The inner linings press the edge of the carpet and the door seal, and the outer ones have a decorative and protective function for thresholds.
The front pads are installed.


And there was a problem with the rear ones - on the left side of the body, they forgot to drill one hole for the clips of the outer lining... I had to fix it. :( The hole was primed with zinc primer and painted.


There is also a nuance with internal ones. As it turned out, they are of two types. I had different ones - one wider and the other narrower, with a different shape of the profile.


The wider one has holes for additional fastening at its rear end.


I had to look for a pair of the same ones. Narrow ones are probably earlier, because they are harder to find. Therefore, I bought wide ones. But on the body, I did not find holes for additional fastening of the rear end. They also do not coincide with the holes for fastening the back of the seat. Well, I didn't use them, they hold up so well. Apparently, those holes are on later cars.


Rear pads are installed.


So, the carpet is completely installed and fixed around the perimeter. The heater/air conditioner housing can now be installed.

[The_Glory]

Collection_89. ETK_61_Wiper system

Before installing the heater housing, I decided to install the wiper mechanism first. It will be much more convenient to do without a heater fan.
So, section General vehicle electrical equipment

Subsection Wiper system




Part No. 1 - wiper lever mechanism (61 61 1 370 792)
Part #2 - wiper motor (61 61 1 373 385)
Part No. 3 - protective cap (61 61 1 369 586)
Part No. 4 - electric motor crank (61 61 1 370 799)
Part No. 5 - drive rod (61 61 1 370 796)
Part No. 6 - corrugated casing D=16MM (61 61 1 370 800) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 7 - bolt M6X12-Z3-2 (07 11 9 915 014) - 3 pcs.
Part #8 - locking nut M6 (51 41 7 053 138) - 1 pc.



Part No. 9 - M8 nut (07 11 9 904 948) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - protective cap (61 61 1 370 387) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 11 - nut (61 61 8 744 121) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 12 - spacer washer (61 61 8 444 182) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 13 - ring (61 61 1 353 766) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 14 - damper ring 18X28X6 (61 61 1 353 754) - 2 pcs.



Part No. 15 - bolt M6X20-U2-8.8 (07 11 9 903 995) - 1 pc.
Part No. 16 - sleeve (61 61 1 372 677) - 1 pc.
Part No. 17 - damper ring (61 61 1 372 676) - 1 pc.
Part No. 18 - corrugated crank cover D=16MM (61 61 1 370 649) - 1 pc.

For some reason, the ETK does not show the shims and retaining rings that fix the wiper axles.


There was no backlash in the hinges, so I did not disassemble them - I simply cleaned them well and replaced the grease in them. We also lubricate the axes and insert the mechanism into the housing. We put spacer washers on the axis to remove the axial backlash and fix the axis with retaining rings. The electric motor was working fine, so I just cleaned it. We fasten electric motor #2 to the windshield wiper housing #1 with three #7 bolts and cover it with plastic cover #3.


We insert rubber damper No. 17 and sleeve No. 16 into the hole of the case.
But it is better to screw the crank No. 4 to the motor axis with a nut No. 8 after installing the windshield wiper on the car. So it will be much more convenient to insert it into the niche of the body. Although, it is not very easy to do it anyway.


We insert rubber rings No. 14 into the holes on the body and deflect the wiring connector so that it does not interfere.


Insert rings No. 13, and install the wiper mechanism in the niche of the body.


Carefully push it to the holes. The procedure is quite difficult, there is little space, and it is not very convenient to do it. As I said, it is better to do this with the crank NOT screwed on - this way you can fold the levers more compactly so that they pass more easily through the niche. And good thing I did it BEFORE installing the heater and its fan. With him it would be much more difficult.
After the wiper axles are finally installed in their places, we put washers No. 12 on them, tighten nuts No. 11, and put on protective plastic caps No. 10. We screw in nuts No. 9, which will then be used to fix the levers of the brushes. But it will be after installing the glass.




After that, we screw the wiper body to the body with bolt #15, through the rubber damper #17 and sleeve #16.


I left the crank unfastened for now. We connect the wiring connector to the electric motor. After installing the glass, it will be necessary to turn on the windshield wiper so that its electric motor is in its extreme position. After that, screw the crank and brush levers.

[The_Glory]

Assembly_90. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 2) Wiring connection, adapters

So, now everything is ready to install the air conditioner. Today will be, so to speak, the "introductory part".
The air conditioner in the E30 is probably the option that has been changed the most and most frequently throughout the E30's production period. Every year some changes were made to its wiring and design. Therefore, there are many combinations of wiring options, sensors, regulators, compressors, fans, radiators, heater housings and other air conditioner parts. And not all of them are compatible with each other. Now, as a rule, you don't have to choose, so I bought what I could find at the moment - an M20 air conditioning kit, which was then installed on the M42, with sad consequences for the compressor, due to its homemade mounting - I already mentioned this before .




In principle - a normal complete set, at a normal price.
Based on the wiring and ETM, I identified it as a variant of the 1989 model - that is, restyling. The main wiring in my 1986 model car is, accordingly, before restyling. Therefore, almost all the connectors are different, the circuits are different, the colors of the wires and pin numbers also do not match. But somehow it is necessary to combine all this! :) Having armed himself with the schemes of 86 and 89, he began to figure out how to do it. I decided not to "barbarically" cut anything in the wiring, but to make it on "transitional" adapters. For this, I bought donor pieces of wiring with the necessary connectors.


In fact, everything is not as difficult as it seems at first glance - you only need to connect a few wires correctly.
This time it will only be about connecting the underhood wiring of the air conditioner. If the wiring of the air conditioner corresponds to the main wiring, then the connection is very simple - you need to insert 5 terminals into the fuse block, and connect two connectors there (or one, for restyling). But this is not my case! :)
My case is a mix of '89 A/C wiring with '86 main wiring. It was for such an option that I made unfoamed adapters.


Please note - for other years of production, the pin numbers and the color of the wires may differ!

In practice, I only partially tested it - the heater fan works, the air conditioner fan works, the recirculation works. There is no way to check the operation of the compressor yet. Also, if you use this information, you do so at your own peril and risk! :) If there are any inaccuracies, I will make the appropriate changes after the air conditioner is fully launched.

Underhood wiring of the air conditioner of the 1989 model.


1 - fuse terminal #18 (30A), black-blue
2 - fuse terminal No. 3 (15A), black-green
3 - connector C413 for connection to the main wiring
4.1, 4.2 - connectors for connecting the diode
5 - terminal 86 of relay K1, black
6 - terminal 86 of relay K6, black-brown
7 - terminal 85 of relay K6, brown
8 - "ground" G104 (near the left headlight)
9 - connector of the additional air conditioner fan
10 - connector of the 2-pin radiator temperature sensor
11 - air conditioner compressor clutch connector
12 - high pressure sensor connector
13 - low pressure sensor connector





I haven't fully figured out the pressure sensors yet, so the blue connector 12 is temporary, and may be replaced later with the one needed for the corresponding sensor.
With the terminals, everything is simple and the same, regardless of the year of manufacture - empty places for relay contacts and fuses are visible on the board.
But the connectors are different. I have two white 2 pin connectors in my '86 fuse block to connect the A/C wiring.




They are compatible with each other in terms of shape, but you do NOT need to connect them to each other! They plug into the same matching 86 A/C wiring connectors.
But the connector corresponding to them (C413) on the wiring of 89 is completely different.


According to the expansion shown above, we make adapter No. 1 from the corresponding parts of the connectors - for underhood wiring of the air conditioner.


The cabin wiring for the '89 heater/air conditioner housing has the following C204 connector:


The cabin wiring of the 86 heater housing has the following C204 connector (three empty places for the air conditioner wires):


According to the expansion shown above, we make adapter No. 2 from the corresponding parts of the connectors - for the interior wiring of the air conditioner.
We add three additional wires for the air conditioner.


But we connect the corresponding foams according to the table above, according to the colors.


We get such an adapter (the length could be made twice as short).


According to the pinning shown above, we make adapter No. 3 from the corresponding parts of the connectors - for connecting the interior wiring of the air conditioner to the engine wiring (it could be made much shorter in length).


So, to connect the air conditioning wiring of the 89 model to the main and motor wiring of the 86 model, you need to make three such adapters:


As I already said, I made the length with a margin, I will shorten it in places, if necessary.

Therefore, we open the fuse block and connect adapter No. 1 to the corresponding connectors. These wires, in addition to black and green, go into the cabin to the C204 air conditioner connector. Black and green goes to fuse #19.


In the 86 version, the red-black wire does not go into the cabin with the other three, but is connected to the engine wiring under the hood. Therefore, this wire is brought out separately from the fuse block under the hood. It will be connected to the motor wiring later.


We break out the plastic plug in the fuse block housing, and tighten the underhood wiring of the air conditioner into it.


According to the ETM and EBA, insert the two fuse contact terminals (#3 and #18) and the three air conditioning fan relay contact terminals (K1 and K6) into the corresponding blanks on the board. This is given above in the description of wiring connectors. Connect the C413 connector to adapter #1. We put all these connectors in the fuse block and close it.


There is one nuance - judging by the EBA, there were simple configurations of cars, with no preparation for air conditioning at all. That is, - without these connectors in the fuse block. In this case, you need to buy the original additional wiring harness specified in the EBA. Don't know if it's still available.

Or just lay these wires yourself from the fuse block in the cabin to connector C204, according to the pinout table above.

Another small "upgrade" ;)
The previous owner installed an additional electric fan that was switched on by a button via a separate relay and fuse. I got used to it, so I decided to leave this button - suddenly I want to burn rubber on "donuts" or "barnauts", then it will not be superfluous to turn on the fan in advance, and not wait for the motor to overheat :) But I connected this button in parallel to temperature sensor, which turns on the maximum speed of the air conditioner fan - as if at the factory;)
This is the usual green button for heating the rear window.


The connection scheme is elementary - parallel to the sensor, to fuse No. 19 and to pin 86 of relay K6. Added a connector for adjusting the backlight of the button.


For convenience, I led the wires from the fuse block to the connector, and through the rubber insert in the engine shield, led it into the cabin.


I connected the backlight to the rear window heating button.


So, the underhood wiring of the air conditioner is connected, and together with other wiring is laid under the hood to the right headlight. I will connect its other connectors as the relevant parts of the air conditioner are installed.
Now you can install the heater/air conditioner housing and connect it using adapters #2 and #3. I will write about it next time.

[The_Glory]

Collection_91. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 3) Details of the heater housing/with a microfilter

BMW E30 was equipped with two types of interior heaters. Accordingly, each type of heater had its own radiator, radiator valve, electric fan motor and wiring. All these parts are not interchangeable between the two types of heaters, and must match each other. Of course, the housings of the heaters are also completely different. But, fully assembled with all these parts, the heaters are interchangeable. The difference can be only in the C204 connector, if you change between restyling and before restyling. Both types were available both before restyling and after restyling - there are many options for combinations :)

In addition, these two types of heaters were available in several variants each.

So, the types of BMW E30 interior heaters:
Type 1
1.1 - heater
1.2 - heater with automatic temperature control
1.3 - heater with attached air conditioner (perhaps this is a dealer or aftermarket retrofit)
Type 2
2.1 - heater
2.2 - heater with cabin filter
2.3 - air conditioner without recirculation (I only read about it somewhere, but never saw it)
2.4 - air conditioner with recirculation
2.5 - air conditioner with automatic temperature control (climate control) and with recirculation

The first type is simply a heater. But there is an air conditioner retrofit kit for it, although it is rare, mostly on early cars.

The second type can simply be a heater or an air conditioner. The cabin filter can be installed only in the second type and only for the heater option. In the air conditioner version, an evaporator is installed in its place. A bit of a strange decision in my opinion.

I had the simplest option installed - a heater (1.1), before restyling. Now I will install air conditioning with recirculation (2.4), restyling. In this part, we will talk about the assembly of the heater/air conditioner housing itself.

He looked like this:


Therefore, it was first necessary to completely disassemble it, wash it, clean it and bring it into proper shape and condition.
Unscrew and remove all hinged parts.
The case consists of upper and lower parts, which are fastened with staples.


Staples are easily removed with a thin screwdriver, the main thing is to find them all.


Having separated the lower and upper parts, it became clear that in order to remove the wiring, it is necessary to separate the upper part into left and right parts. They are riveted with four rivets in the place of installation of the electric motor of the fan - two on top


But two from below


But with four more rivets at the bottom of the case.


We drill rivets.
Then you need to unscrew the self-tapping screw in the upper part. This requires a very long thin screwdriver.


And one more self-tapping screw in the lower part.


In addition, the edge of the case was soldered (scratches in the photo).


Carefully cut the solder and, finally, the upper part is separated.


Carefully remove them from the grooves. I did not remove the central flap. There was a thin rubber gasket between the parts of the case.


Now you can remove the wiring and rewind it.


1 - connector C204 for connection to the main wiring
2 - temperature controller relay connector
3 - evaporator temperature sensor connector
4 - fuse connector (2A)
5 - radiator valve connector
6 - fan speed resistor connector
7.1 - power connector of the electric motor of the fan
7.2 - "mass" connector of the electric motor of the fan
8 - connector of the servo drive of the left recirculation flap
9 - connector of the relay of the left recirculation valve
10 - right recirculation valve relay connector
11 - connector of the servo drive of the right recirculation valve
12 - the connector of the backlight lamp of the air conditioner panel
13 - fan speed switch connector
14 - air conditioner/recirculation button connector
15 - connector of the backlight lamp of the air conditioner panel
16 - connector for connecting to Motronic motor wiring (pin 40, 41)
17* - cigarette lighter light bulb connector. Instead of a lamp, in accordance with the EBA instructions, I have a connector installed there for connecting the wiring of the gear knob backlight (I will write about this later)
18.1 - cigarette lighter power connector
18.2 - "mass" connector of the cigarette lighter

* this is how the additional wiring of the cigarette lighter and gear shift knob looks like


Body parts were thoroughly washed and cleaned of age-old dust and dirt. But there was one problem with the body, "classic" for the E30 - a broken recirculation valve. Not even broken, but completely self-made from plastic from the Zhiguli!


Someone tried very hard, but it still jammed and didn't work.


VAZ relay cover :)


And here I was lucky! At a flea market, I found a half-disassembled case of an air conditioner - with an evaporator, and damper drives, and with WHOLE dampers!


I rearranged the damper and glued new 4 mm splenum seals on all dampers.




By the way, I made the templates for all the flaps in .pdf format, so if someone needs them, you can print them out and cut them. Dimensions tested in practice! ;)

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pBzVuRbMJMIqI9nzqfZI5OLQCn9WMA6J/view?usp=drive_link

So, you can start assembling the case,


First, we insert the wiring and connector of the fan electric motor resistor. We also do not forget to insert the rubber valve body.


We insert a rubber gasket into the grooves of the case. I bought a skein of ordinary rubber in a fishing store - it costs a penny :) Although it only takes a few meters. There was some sealant in the places where the self-tapping screws were installed, so I put some black spacer sealant there as well.


Now we carefully connect the two parts, while it is necessary to get into all the grooves, and so that the rubber seal does not fall out anywhere. I got a little dizzy, but I made it! We twist two self-tapping screws, rivet new rivets through the metal plates, and seal the edge.






The upper part of the case is assembled - everything is as it was.


Now you can put the side flaps. We insert the axis and fix it with locking washers on both sides.


We put a red rod, attach a cable with a red label to it. Do not forget to put a red rubber band on the axle. A mysterious detail - I thought for a long time why it was there, and I came up with it! :) I'll show you later ;)




Also new gaskets on the flaps.


We put the flaps carefully so as not to break them - push the rod and put on the flap from the other side, while the flaps should fit into their grooves.






I lubricated the hinges of all dampers with Teflon grease.
We install the brackets for attaching the heater body to the body - just screw them tightly into the grooves.




The cables are attached to the corresponding rods. By the way, I did not remove all the cables from the case, because some are riveted. But someone must have removed it not carefully before and punched a hole - it had to be sealed.


Finally, the upper part of the heater body is completely assembled. It is strange that it consists of many parts, but in ETK it goes like one part. Although, for example, there are numbers on the same flaps, but they are not in ETK.


It's easier with the lower part - it's just a trough with a large flap. Also goes on ETK, as one detail. Cleaned and glued new seals.

So,
Heater housing parts/with microfilter




Part No. 1 - the upper part of the body
Detail No. 2 - lower part of the body
Part No. 3 - sealing gasket (64 11 1 370 936)
Part No. 4 - sealing gasket (64 11 1 370 937)
The gaskets can be bought new, but their price is a bit overpriced, in my opinion... :) That's why I cut them myself from a similar material.

Part No. 5 - bracket (64 11 1 370 938) Brackets for fastening parts of the case. You need about 22 pieces in total, although I don't remember exactly...

Part No. 6 - resistor (64 11 1 370 927)
Part #7 - cover (64 11 1 370 929) - only for the heater. In the photo, another cover is for the air conditioner.
Part No. 8 - air duct left (64 21 1 370 619) and right (64 21 1 370 620)
Part No. 9 - screw (64 11 1 370 949) - 6 pcs. For fixing the cover and air ducts.
Part No. 10 - cover (64 11 1 372 670) - 2 pcs. It is used only on 2-door cars, if there are no channels in the rear part of the cabin. In my case it is not used.

If it was just a heater, it could already be completely assembled. But, since this is an air conditioner, you still need to install all its hinged parts. More on that later.

[The_Glory]

Collection_92. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 4) Air conditioner details

So, I continue to assemble the air conditioner case. It remains to install the hinged parts.
Air conditioning parts




Part No. 1 - the upper part of the body
Detail No. 2 - lower part of the body
Part #3 - fan bowl (64 11 1 372 507)
Part No. 4 - servo drive (64 11 1 372 511) - 2 pcs.

Part No. 5 - connecting rod (64 11 1 372 512) - 2 pcs. Again a mistake in ETK - the left and right thrusts are different and this is very important, I will show why later.

Part No. 6 - relay (61 36 1 388 911) - 2 pcs.
Part #7 - evaporator temperature regulator (64 50 8 390 158) On the diagram, this is part #20
Item No. 8 is not used. Used only for climate control
Part No. 9 - condensate drain hose (64 11 1 370 998) - 2 pcs.
Part No. 10 - condensate drain hose (64 11 1 370 995) - 1 pc.

Part #11 - bracket left (64 11 1 372 635) and right (64 11 1 372 636)
Part #12 - rubber gasket (64 11 1 372 637) Not available for ordering, but as I said, it is perfectly replaced by a regular "fishing" rubber.
Part No. 13 - bracket (64 11 1 372 638) - 2 pcs. This is a plastic bushing of the linkage
Part No. 14 - fan bowl (64 11 1 370 934)
Part No. 15...No. 18 is not used. Used only for climate control
Part No. 19 - resistor (64 11 6 912 633)
Part No. 20 - evaporator temperature regulator (64 50 8 390 158)
Part No. 21 - insert of the retainer (64 11 1 376 327). Fastener for attaching salon clips

We connect the internal and external recirculation flaps of the recirculation flaps.


We install the resistor in the grooves and snap it into the connector.






We connect the upper and lower parts of the case with staples, inserting a rubber seal around the perimeter. We lay the wiring and fix it with metal clips, install and connect the thermostat and the temperature sensor of the evaporator. Below is a place to install a radiator.


We install brackets with servo drives and connect them. We fix the connectors in the brackets of the brackets. We install relays and fix their connectors on special grooves on the case. The wiring is fixed on the left with a tie, on the right with a clamp.


We insert the rods into the corresponding holes in the case and snap them into the bushings (#13) on the servo drives. And now an important point. Traction must be properly adjusted. If this is not done, then soon the flaps will break, as it often happens, and as it was in my case. The fact is that the servo drives are constantly under power and "pull" the flaps so that they are tightly closed. That is why they break. To prevent this from happening, you need to manually move the servo with the thrust as far back as possible until the servo lever rests against the bracket.


Now manually press the flap so that it closes, and adjust the length of the rod along the thread, and in this position snap it into the hinge.


Now the servo will not excessively "pull" the flap, as its lever will rest against the bracket.

It is the same on the right, but there is a nuance. I don't understand why they didn't do the same. The difference is that the lever of the right servo goes past the bracket and does not rest against it. But the right pull (unlike the left) has a special bend, with which it rests against the lever itself.


Adjusting the length of the thrust is similar to the left side.


Lubricate the joints with Teflon grease. Done with flaps.
A place to install the vaporizer. By the way, this is where the interior filter can be installed in the version of a conventional heater.


For now, just put the lid on.


On the cover there is a special attachment for the retainer of salon clips No. 21. There should be a similar mount on the left side of the case, but it's broken off...


I asked a friend to print a "repair insert" for this fastener. He also printed a few more things I needed - mounting the instrument panel, ceiling panel and cover on bolts with a lock.


Maybe not perfect, but the clip should hold.




The air conditioner body is fully assembled.

[The_Glory]

Collection_93. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 5) Heating element/fan

So, the case is assembled, it remains to install the fan electric motor, radiator and evaporator. I'll start with the fan and radiator. I thoroughly washed the old radiator that was included with the air conditioner - it looks intact.


But he is already 35 years old and I don't know how he worked before that, and what to expect from him. Once I already had a heater radiator burst - I don't really want such "joy" again :) I ordered a new radiator. Along with it, there is also a dehumidifier and all sorts of small things for the air conditioner.




Chose the Mahle Behr (AH95000S) as it was from the factory, but of course now it is also "Made in China".


But the packaging and equipment are completely "branded" - a seal, instructions and an advertising booklet :)


The electric motor of the fan turned out to be working, even without the creak of its bushings, as is often the case. So I just washed and cleaned it well. And then the operation will show...
But all other details needed some attention and restoration.
I'll start with the recirculation flap cover.
Soldered the crack under the engine and the cracks on the landing holes of the flaps.




By the way, the "ear" above the flap is the place to install the temperature sensor for the climate control option. In my case it is not used.
Part of the rib against which the flap rests was broken. We restore it with plastic hot glue.




We clean


Putty and sand


Primer and matte paint for plastic.


It turned out not bad.
Now the aluminum tubes of the radiator - they often corrode under the clamps. After cleaning the pipes with sandblasting, there were even holes.


Soldering aluminum is not easy, but thanks to google I found a very easy way! :) I bought a special solder with flux Castolin 192 FBK. A simple gas burner is also needed.


The process is very simple - we heat the tube with a gas burner, then apply solder to the place of heating, it melts and evenly fills the holes. After that, we clean it lightly.




But we paint with zinc-aluminum paint.


Now it's the turn of the radiator valve. They are of two types, as I said before. The upper one is for the first type of heater, and the lower one is for the second type.


Their design is different, but the principle of operation is the same - the valve is usually open, and when power is applied to it, it closes with an audible click. My valve would not close even though it looks intact and has no signs of leaking. In this case, you need to disassemble and clean it without thinking for a long time. Most likely, it was simply stuck with dirt.
So we drill four brass rivets.


The expected result - everything is covered with mud!


The valve solenoid was disassembled without any problems.


But the cover of the valve membrane did not want to come off! I had to soak it all night in WD-40.


There was also a lot of dirt under her.


The channels in the cover are also clogged with dirt.


Fortunately, the membrane was intact, so we wash everything very carefully. Especially all the channels and grids in the case.


By the way, the arrow indicates the direction of movement of the liquid - I will write more about this below.




We also thoroughly clean the rubber membrane and channels in its cover. We wash the solenoid.




A diode is provided on the coil of the solenoid, but for some reason it burned out.


I'm not very good at electronics, so I don't really understand why it's there - the valve works without it - but I replaced it anyway.


All parts of the valve are ready for assembly.


The assembly is simple - we put the membrane in the tube and close it with a lid. We put a washer, a coil with a metal clip, an upper washer on the solenoid and cover it with a plastic cover. We put a rubber ring and a spring on the solenoid rod. Carefully squeeze and evenly twist with four M3x30 screws with washers and nuts.


Blow the valve - it should be open. We supply power - the contacts are signed on the cover.


The valve clicks when closing and does not blow out - fully operational.

All parts are ready for installation.

So, Heating element/fan




I will repeat once again - all the details of this section are suitable only for the housing of the heater of the second type. And not interchangeable with similar parts for the case of the first type.

Part #1 - heating element (64 11 8 391 363). In my case it is Mahle Behr (AH95000S)
Part #2 - fan (64 11 1 370 930)
Part No. 3 - tightening tape (64 11 1 370 636) - 2 pcs. For fixing the fan cover.
Part No. 4 - tube (64 11 1 370 931)
Part No. 5 - tube (64 11 1 370 932)
Part No. 6 - fan bowl (64 11 1 372 507). Recirculation valve cover. According to this number, it comes together with two pairs of flaps. It is available to order, but I think the price of 300 euros is not adequate :) In my photo, there is only one pair of shutters. The other pair remained on the heater body. I didn't want to take them off again so as not to break them... especially considering their price ;)
Part #7 - fan bowl (64 11 1 370 934). Fan cover.
Part #8 - foot (64 11 1 370 935) Plate for fixing the fan.
Part #9 - square nut M5 (07 11 9 921 431) - 5 pcs.
Part No. 10 - bolt M5x20 (07 11 9 913 251) - 5 pcs.
Part No. 11 - spring washer (07 11 9 933 060) - 5 pcs.
Part No. 12 - sealing ring D=17.12MM (64 11 8 377 824) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 13 - rubber sleeve (64 11 1 370 809) Installed in the motor shield.
Part #14 - check valve (64 11 1 372 653) Rubber valve - I wrote about it last time when assembling the upper part of the heater body. It is installed above the electric motor of the fan.

It consists of a plastic frame and a rubber flap - in the center of the photo.

Part No. 15 - bracket (64 11 1 373 634) - 1 pc. For fixing radiator tubes.
Part No. 16 - water valve (64 11 1 386 707)
Part No. 17 - screw (64 11 1 370 949) - 1 pc.
Part No. 18 - repair kit for the temperature sensor (64 11 1 394 105) It is not entirely clear what it is.

We install a cover with flaps, press it with metal springs fixed on the body.
Installing the fan looks very simple - we put it in a niche and press it with a clamp (#8).


In fact, you need to get a little dizzy - so that the fan is in its place and does not cling to the heater body and cover with its blades. The buckle fastens with noticeable effort. We connect the power terminals and "masses" of the electric motor.


We snap the plastic collars (No. 3) into the body, install the cover (No. 7) and press it with plastic collars on the fasteners.


The fan is installed.

We proceed to the installation of the radiator. First, you need to screw the valve and aluminum tubes to it.


There are special grooves on the tubes, so they stand in only one position. The main thing is not to forget to put rubber rings (#12) on the joints. We insert square nuts into special grooves and evenly screw the tubes and the valve with bolts.


We glue the radiator with a sealant that was included with the radiator. We glue it diagonally on the back plane.
Although, I didn't have enough of it, so I glued the spleen on the front plane.




We insert the radiator into the niche of the heater housing and fasten it with two self-tapping screws.


We press the tubes with a bracket (No. 15) and fasten them with a self-tapping screw. We connect the valve. The rubber insert is still just hanging on the tubes. Also found my old engine shield sound insulation insert.


Finally, the left side duct for warm air can be installed. On one side it is placed on a latch, on the other side on one self-tapping screw.


Everything is established, but I still want to write about one nuance. Disputes often arise - where the valve is located - at the entrance to the radiator or at the exit from it. And in general, where is the entrance, and where is the exit.
So, according to ETK:
The upper tube is the exit from the radiator of the heater
The lower tube is the entrance to the radiator of the heater

As I already said, there is an arrow on the valves that indicates the direction of fluid movement. On my old heater of the first type, the valve is on the lower tube, and the arrow in the direction of the radiator is also indicated there.


That is, the valve is at the entrance to the radiator of the heater.


And here is the arrow on the valve of my new heater - from the radiator:


The valve is on the upper tube. That is, the valve is at the exit from the radiator of the heater.


So, both parties are right in disputes! :) It just depends on the type of heater - for the first type, the valve is at the inlet, and for the second type - at the outlet.

Next time I will write about the installation of the evaporator.

[The_Glory]

Collection_94. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 6) Evaporator/relief valve. Microfilter

So Evaporator/relief valve




Part #1 - evaporator R12/R134A (64 51 8 391 780). According to ETK, the evaporator is the same for both types of freon.
Part #2 - safety valve R134A (64 51 8 391 209) And the valves are apparently different. We will have to deal with this freon later...
Part #3 - sealing ring D=11.1MM (64 50 8 390 602) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - sealing ring D=14MM (64 50 8 390 603) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - screw (64 11 1 370 949) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 6 - evaporator cover (64 11 1 376 851)
Part #7, #8 - not used

The evaporator is, in fact, a radiator "in reverse". Thanks to it, we get coolness in the cabin. The new one is not cheap, but people write that it rarely fails. That's why I left him. He looked like this.


By the way, I also did not unscrew the valve just to change the rubber rings - I don't see the point in this. But the tubes can be bent or broken at the same time.... I left it like that. Although, I bought a large set of rubber rings of all sizes for the air conditioner.
The insulation has completely crumbled.


A lot of dust and dirt.


I already said that together with the air conditioner donor housing, I also bought another dehumidifier with a valve. I cleaned them both - one of the two must be working! ;) The second one will be spare.


Aligned the bent plates of the ribs.










The difference in the holes for the temperature sensor - one hole on one, and two on the other. Perhaps it depends on the year of release or restyling.


The evaporator is installed in a niche on the right side. On the back wall, you can see the rod of the temperature sensor, which should fit into the hole on the evaporator. Therefore, it is better to remove and install the temperature sensor after installing the evaporator.


We glue the new thermal insulation, as it was from the factory.


And we insert the evaporator into the body of the air conditioner. The holes for the temperature sensor on the evaporator and on the case coincided.


Insert the temperature sensor into place.


On the other hand, we glue the tubes with thermal insulation, but so that it does not interfere with installing the cover.


We insert a thin rubber gasket (fishing gum) into the groove of the lid, close the evaporator and screw the lid.
Now you can install the right side channel for warm air.


All that remains is to connect the cables to the damper control panel.

P.S.
As I said earlier - in the version of a conventional heater, this niche remains empty, but a salon microfilter could be installed in it. But for some reason it is very rare.
Although it is not available for the conditioner at all, but I will write about it - just for information.

Microfilter


Part No. 1 - microfilter (64 31 1 394 093). In ETK there is a note "For cars with air conditioning". This is a clear mistake - as you can see, there is an evaporator in the air conditioner, and there is physically no place for a filter. Perhaps this refers to the type two heater/air conditioner housing itself. The filter is available to order, but only in the original. I did not find analogues from other manufacturers. So, if desired, everyone who has a heater of the second type installed can order an original filter, or choose one of similar size and breathe cleaner air in the cabin ;)

It looks like this (all photos found on the Internet)
Sticker under the lid of the box for small things




Microfilter cover


Cabin microfilter




It seems that the filter is tightly inserted into the niche and pressed by the ribs of the cover.

It would be good and logical if there was such a filter for the air conditioner...but for some reason it was not provided

[The_Glory]

Assembly_95. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 7) Heater control panel. Damper control drive cable

So, the air conditioner body is completely assembled, it remains to connect the panel and damper control cables.

Heater control panel




Part #1 - front panel (64 11 1 385 878) For cars with a clock or on-board computer (as in the photo). For the simplest configurations (64 11 1 385 877) - with a radio and buttons in the center of the panel (as in the diagram).
Part No. 2 - backlight panel (64 11 1 385 878) Depending on the year of production, there are different icons
Part No. 3 - bracket (64 11 1 368 948) For fastening the backlight panel

Part #4 - heater control panel (64 11 1 385 972)
Part No. 5 - support bracket (64 11 1 385 972)
Part No. 24 (No. 5...No. 8) - temperature regulator (64 11 1 375 746)
Part #9 - screw M3X8 (07 11 9 907 602) - 3 pcs.

Part No. 10 - plug (64 11 1 368 498). Plug instead of buttons. In my case, it is not used, since all places for buttons are occupied.
Part No. 11 - cover of the radio receiver (64 11 1 368 515) Plug for simple configurations without a radio. In my case it is not used.
Part No. 12 - screw ST2.9X6.5 (07 11 9 907 701) - 2 pcs. For upper mounting of the panel.
Part No. 13 - screw ST3.9X16 (07 11 9 906 734) - 2 pcs. For lower panel mounting.
Part No. 22 - sheet nut ST3,9-5 (07 12 9 925 727) - 2 pcs. For lower panel mounting.
Part No. 14 - screw M4X8 (07 11 9 906 407) - 4 pcs. For fastening the control panel of the heater.
Part No. 15 - button (64 11 1 375 674) - 3 pcs. Illuminated handle for adjusting the shutters
Part No. 16 - overlay (64 11 1 370 629)
Part #17 - rotating handle (64 11 1 375 508)
Part No. 18 - temperature adjustment knob (64 11 1 375 673)
Part No. 19 - fan switch (61 31 1 381 201) Available in 3 or 4 speeds, depending on the year of manufacture.
Part No. 20 - the switch fastening nut
Part No. 21 - air conditioner switch (61 31 1 372 051). Air conditioning and recirculation button.

Part #23 - film (64 11 1 375 742) For climate control (64 11 1 375 743) - with a temperature scale in degrees. (in the photo above, both options)
Part No. 27 - lamp 2V 1.2W (63 21 7 167 000) - 2 pcs. To illuminate the heater control panel.
Part #25, #26 - not used. The temperature controller is only for climate control.

The temperature regulator (No. 24) activates the radiator valve of the heater. When the ignition is turned on, power is supplied to the contacts of the regulator and the valve closes.


When the regulator handle is turned by 15 degrees, the power contact breaks and the valve opens. Further, the regulator works mechanically - it simply pulls the damper cable when turning.


We clean the contacts, lubricate them, and screw the regulator to the heater control panel. In the photo, you can see the light guides of the backlight, they must be clean and standing in their seats.
We fix the backlight panel on the front panel with staples.


By the way, in the photo on the right panel, the clock frame is screwed. It is not needed for the on-board computer.
We install regulators and their handles. An overlay on the panel and a button. I installed a temperature scale with digital markings - for climate control. Maybe one day I will find climate control... :)


By the way, the round grille near the temperature regulator is the place for the cabin temperature sensor of the climate control. It is not used for air conditioning.


The panels are assembled, it remains to connect them with cables to the shutters.

Flap regulation drive cable




Part No. 1 - air temperature control actuator cable ( 64 11 1 370 915)
Part No. 2 - the cable for the glass heating flap drive (64 11 1 370 916) Red label.
Part No. 3 - warm air damper drive cable (64 11 1 370 917)
Part No. 4 - cable for the drive of the air supply valve in the area of the legs (64 11 1 370 918) Green label.
Part No. 5 - bracket (64 11 1 367 615) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 6 - bracket (64 11 1 358 563) - 1 pc.
Part No. 7 - bracket (64 11 1 368 019) - 3 pcs.
Part No. 8 - spring (64 11 1 381 659) - 1 pc.


I connected three cables to the dampers while assembling the body.


They are fixed to the body with staples No. 5, one for each cable.
Cable #2 with a red label and cable #3 without a label.


Cable #4 with a green label.


Cable No. 1 is fixed with clamp No. 5 to the flap adjustment panel.


On the other hand, it is fixed to the body with spring No. 8 and clamp No. 6.


Cables No. 2, No. 3, No. 4 are fixed with staples No. 7 on the damper adjustment panel, according to the color labels - upper red, middle black, lower green. Cable #1 to the temperature control lever.


When I connected all the cables, I finally understood what the red rubber band I mentioned earlier was for! Everything is simple and convenient! :)


But, unfortunately, it broke from old age. I replaced it with a similar new one from a sewing store :)

The cables need to be adjusted, so you should not fix them immediately with staples. We check whether the dampers are completely closed and opened in the extreme positions of the regulators. If necessary, move the cable in the right direction. Then we fix it with staples in this position.

Now, finally, the air conditioner can be installed on the car.

[The_Glory]

Collection_96. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 8) Heater/air conditioner

Finally, the air conditioner can be installed on the car!
But, again but! :) First you need to drill (!!!) the holes for the condensate drain hoses. There are only 3 hoses. There was a factory metal plug under one hose in the body, which I knocked out when I was just disassembling the car. Under the other two hoses, you need to drill holes according to the scheme from the EBA instructions. Was it really that hard to make all three plugs at the factory? :)
We measure 254 mm from the bracket forward, to the motor shield, and 133 mm in each direction. It is not very convenient to do this on a curved surface.


Therefore, just in case, I tried on the lower body of the heater with tubes for draining condensate.




Again, grinding our teeth, we drill two holes with a diameter of 21 mm.


The edges of the holes are primed with zinc primer and painted.


Now you can definitely install it!

Heater/Air Conditioning




Part #1 is the heater/air conditioner unit
Part #2 - M6 nut (07 14 7 134 319) - 5 pcs.
Part No. 3 - damper (64 21 8 042 132) - 1 pc.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST4,8X13-C (07 11 9 916 813) - 1 pc.
Part No. 5 - spacer washer 5.3 (07 11 9 936 439) - 1 pc.
Part No. 6 - bracket (64 11 1 370 637) - 1 pc.
Part No. 7...No. 11 - are not used. For climate control only.

The ETK does not show the insert plate for the #4 self-tapping screw. It is inserted into the groove on the heater body.


We fix the damper adjustment panel with a red rubber band to a special hook so that it does not sway on the cables and does not interfere.


This is how the condensate drain hoses are installed.


Additional fastening of the air conditioner body to the body.


We insert the hoses into the holes and treat them with wax sealant. Screw the damper into a special bracket on the body.




We install a rubber insert for the radiator tubes, and treat it with a wax sealant.


And, finally, we install the air conditioner unit! It sounds and looks simple, but it's better to do it together. But, thanks to the lack of a windshield, I managed it myself.


We tighten four nuts in the niche of the body.


Then additional fastening in the cabin. We put on the rear hose.


We put on the side hoses for draining the condensate. We connect the side air ducts with the ducts going to the back of the cabin.


Condensate is diverted to the gearbox.




Well, and finally, we connect the air conditioner to the interior wiring through the adapters that I wrote about at the very beginning.
Adapter #2 - turned out a little too long, but not critical.


Adapter No. 3 is very long, only a few centimeters would be enough - I will shorten it. Connects to the motor wiring.


The air conditioner is installed and connected.
In the test mode, I checked - the heater fan is working, the recirculation valves are working, the additional fan is working. It's already good! Next, I will install the tubes, and the compressor, radiator and fan will have to wait until the motor is installed...

[The_Glory]

Collection_97. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 9) Dryer tank/pneumatic switches/small parts. Pipelines

Dryer tank/pneumatic switches/small parts




Part #1 - insulating tape (64 50 1 352 059) is no longer available, so I replaced it with ordinary thermal insulating tape from a hardware store.
Part #2 - rubber sleeve (64 53 1 372 609)
Part No. 3 - spacer nut ST 6.3 (64 12 1 379 221) - 5 pcs.
Part No. 4 - clamp D=10/6.4 (12 14 1 305 0280 - 2 pcs.
Part No. 5 - clamp D=16/6.4 (12 42 7 840 4060 - 1 pc.
Part #6, #7, #10 - self-tapping screw 4.9X19 (64 50 1 380 494) - 5 pcs.
Part No. 8 - bracket (64 50 1 372 610)
Part No. 9 - sheet nut (16 11 1 152 613) - 1 pc.
Part No. 11 - M6 nut (07 12 9 922 705) - 1 pc.
Part No. 12 - clamp (64 53 1 372 613) - 1 pc.
Part No. 13 - spacer washer 6.4 (07 11 9 931 044) - 1 pc.
Part No. 14 - spring ring B6 (07 11 9 933 082) - 1 pc.

Part No. 15 - gasket (17 11 1 150 1700
Part No. 16 - clamp D=22/6.4 (64 53 1 357 128) - 1 pc.
Part No. 17 - self-tapping screw 4.9X40 (64 50 1 380 496) - 1 pc.

Part #18 - dryer tank (64 53 8 391 025) In my case it is Knecht-Mahle (AD123000S)

I haven't quite figured out the sensors yet, so I bought a few:
Part #19 - safety pneumatic switch (64 53 1 390 070) new for E30, E32, E34 on 4 contacts
Part #20 - safety pneumatic switch (64 53 8 390 971) for E30 on 2 contacts
(64 53 8 390 536) - for E23 with 4 contacts

Part No. 21 - sealing ring. I bought a universal set of rings of different sizes - it's easier and cheaper that way.
Part No. 22...No. 25 - used to fasten early radiators for M20. In my case, they are not used.
Part No. 26, No. 27 - not used.
Part No. 28 - cap (64 53 1 363 569) - 2 pcs.

So, all the fasteners are new, small parts are ready - you can install pipelines.

Pipes


They did not look very good.


Therefore, first sandblasting.


Then electroplating.


In different years, the numbers of the hoses differ, and there is also a difference in the type of freon. I will probably deal with this directly when refueling the air conditioner. For now, just what I actually have.

Part #1, #2 - not used
Detail No. 3 - compressor-condenser pressure pipeline
Detail No. 4 - condenser-drier pressure pipeline
Detail No. 5 - pressure pipeline drier-double tubes
Detail No. 6 - pressure pipeline double tubes-evaporator
Detail #7 - evaporator-compressor suction pipeline
Detail #8 - evaporator-compressor suction pipeline

We start the installation of pipelines by installing a rubber insert in a special hole in the body. The hole was closed with a metal plug - I knocked it out while disassembling the car. So we insert a rubber insert and treat it with a wax sealant. We push tubes No. 6 and No. 7 into it.


We screw these tubes in the cabin to the evaporator valve. A rubber ring of the appropriate size is placed in each tube joint.


We install the bracket for mounting tube #8.




We screw tubes #5 and #8 to tubes #6 and #7, respectively.


We lay them along the right wing and fasten them with clamps.




Two clamps near the hood bracket.


But one collar near the hood shock absorber.


The protective corrugation on tube #8 was torn, so I replaced it. But I had to take a thermocorrugator with a larger diameter so that it would fit through the large nut. Therefore, he fixed the corrugation at the ends with metal ties. We fix the tube with a clamp to the bracket.


We install the dryer in a special hole in the body. The hole was closed with a metal plug - I knocked it out while disassembling the car. Depending on the manufacturer, the dryer can be attached with two or three self-tapping screws. In my case, two.




We install a spacer and a clamp for tube #3.


At this stage, that's all for now. Tubes #3 and #4 will be installed together with the compressor and condenser. Then the dryer and sensors will be connected. But it will be after installing the motor.

[The_Glory]

Collection_98. ETK_64_Heating and air conditioning. (part 10) Partition of the heating system

It remains to install the cover of the heater niche.

Heating System Partition




Part #1 - partition of the heating system (51 71 1 913 799)

Different motors differ in the number of pins for attaching the motor wiring.

Part #2 - spacer nut ST 3.9 (51 71 1 874 203) - 4 pcs.

Part #3 - sealing gasket (51 71 1 825 972) I replaced it with a sealing tape.
Part No. 4 - self-tapping screw ST3,9X16-C-Z2 (07 11 9 916 808) - 4 pcs.
Part No. 5 - hose (51 73 1 911 369) For draining water from the heater niche.

We insert plastic clips No. 2 into the holes in the body. We put hose No. 5 on special ribs on the body.


In fact, this is quite an important detail - it prevents water from getting under the sound insulation of the motor shield and corrosion of the body underneath it.

Glue the sealing tape and fasten the cover with self-tapping screws.


Later, motor and other underhood wiring will be attached to it.

That's all for the air conditioner.

Let's return to the interior assembly.

[The_Glory]

Collection_99. ETK_51_Body equipment. Upholstery per meter

So, you can continue to assemble the cabin. Namely - the installation of door linings. I'll start with noise isolation. These materials are ordered by linear meters according to ETK.

Upholstery by the meter


There are many numbers in one position, so I will write briefly, factually.
Detail No. 1 - sound insulation, can be width B=1450MM (51 95 8 101 124) or B=1050MM (51 95 8 103 058). Apparently it's for the front and back doors, respectively. Not available to order. It is installed on the inner side of the door panels. There are two types - paralon on a soft gray base, or on a harder gray base. The first one is of better quality, the paralon on it is preserved in good condition. But more often there is a second one, on which the paralon has almost completely crumbled from old age and only the base itself remains.


Detail No. 1 - noise-insulating coating 1160X700MM ( 51 48 8 165 271) This is a sheet of vibration insulation glued to the door. It is in good condition on all my doors, so I left it as it is.


Detail #1 - artificial leather upholstery. In my case, these are black SCHWARZ door trims (51 92 1 932 925). My front fairings had holes cut out for the speakers, so I bought another whole set in the same color a long time ago. Cleaned both.


Part No. 2 - weight film B=1520MM (51 95 1 924 961). It is available to order, but I consider the price of 55 Euros per meter inappropriate. That's why I bought the same dense film in a hardware store for 2 euros per meter, and double-sided tape! :) First, I cut out the template from sound insulation.




By the way, the film has two layers, so the patterns come out on two doors at once - convenient.


But after trying the film on the door, it became clear that it is too small - you need to cut along the contour of the cladding, and not along the contour of the sound insulation. The second attempt is what is needed..


Glue double-sided tape along the perimeter and edges of the door.


But stick the film on the door so as to close all the openings.




The door is ready for installation of cladding.
By the way, I previously installed gaps on all doors and locks. Quite painstaking work that requires a lot of time and patience! And you definitely need an assistant. I didn't take photos - everything is as per TIS. We start with the rear doors - we level them along the rear wings, using factory gaskets under the hinges with a thickness of 0.5 mm and 1 mm. Then we level the front doors with the back doors. Then we align the front fenders and hood along the front doors. Although, I will display the front fenders and the hood after the engine is installed. It is better to unscrew the brackets of the door locks from the body, and install them after the doors are fully exposed. Then simply adjust the lock. By the way, I did not use the factory technological holes in the body opposite the nuts of the door hinges for their adjustment - somehow it is very inconvenient to do so.

Now soundproofing. On my skins, except for two, it all fell off. That's why I picked up a bunch of these gray base sheets, cleaned them and decided to glue them instead of paralon - felt. The same as under the rear seat, on the middle pillars and under the torpedo. I thought it would be better that way... I bought sheets of felt and started cutting and gluing.


Factory paralon on the left, felt on the right.



It turned out not bad looking.


Glued with polyurethane glue - it holds well.


But not everything turned out so well. The felt is much thicker than the factory paralon, so the trim did not click well on the clips, and the door handle frame did not fit at all. It was necessary to try it on at once, instead of gluing all four skins...
Well, what are you going to do - peel off that felt from the skins. I bought the thinnest paralon of 5mm in a hardware store and started cutting it.


Again, it looked good.


But this time I decided to try on one skin immediately :) The difference in the thickness of the factory and new paralon.


And what do you think? The clips clicked, but the frame of the door handle still does not fit! I struggled all evening, broke two doorknobs in the process, and it won't hold! Fiasco! I wanted the best, but it turned out - as always... :) Time and money wasted...
I spat at this idea and went to look for a whole factory soundproofing at flea markets. Found it, cleaned it. The whole set.


In the photo, one of the front ones is glued, but then I found a whole one.


By the way, while I was looking, I found out that door sound insulation is available not only on a gray basis, but also on white or black. Later it will be necessary to find a set for my blue skins.
Now, finally, you can install the door trim.