1988 325

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  • pnw_bmw_325
    Noobie
    • Jun 2026
    • 10

    #1

    1988 325

    Just acquired this 1988 BMW 325. 5-speed. Stock. Was just bough at auction from the seller I acquired from. Otherwise appears to be one owner car.

    ZERO rust. Black vinyl interior all original. No rips or tears. Stock radio. Dash intact. Sunroof and alll electronics except on board computer work from what I can tell. AC does not blow cold.

    I plan to get the timing belt changed, and there is an intermittent check engine light. What else should I do or check for?
  • reelizmpro
    R3V OG
    • Dec 2003
    • 9538

    #2
    Timing belt, water pump and tensioner are important and typically done altogether around 50-60k miles IIRC. The valves also need to be adjusted every 30k or so. Other than that, the maintenance is basic. You should know that the 88 325 aka Super ETA is a 1 year anomaly. It's like a transition between 325e and 325i as well as early/late model (like late model body with early bumpers), so familiarize yourself with the differences.
    "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

    85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS
    88 M3 - LACHSSILBER
    89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II
    91 M TECH CABRIO 2.7L TURBO - MACAOBLAU

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    • 2mAn
      Señior Mod
      • Aug 2010
      • 20803

      #3
      Originally posted by pnw_bmw_325

      I plan to get the timing belt changed, and there is an intermittent check engine light. What else should I do or check for?
      Like Barry said, but I’d include the water pump and any suspect hoses too. This way you’ll be covered for a long time.

      Also, the “check” light is mostly related to the check panel above, not an actual check engine light. Push the button up top and let us know what’s on… probably the washer reservoir.
      Simon
      Current Cars:
      -1966 Lotus Elan
      -1986 German Car
      -2006 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

      Make R3V Great Again -2020

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      • Panici
        Moderator
        • Dec 2009
        • 2482

        #4
        Change the rubber fuel hoses!

        I like Gates brand hose, skip the cheap ones which will crack and/or react with Ethanol.

        Comment

        • pnw_bmw_325
          Noobie
          • Jun 2026
          • 10

          #5
          Thanks for the feedback. Had the timing belt, water pump, all belts, cooling system flush and new hoses, and valve adjustment done. Shop said timing belt was toast, so glad I did that. They found a snapped head bolt. I found the notice and procedure for swapping out the original heat head bolts for recommended Torx head bolts without removing the head. Did that myself. The check engine light (yes, check engine, not check panel light) has been intermittent, and was not on while at the shop. Somewhat of a rough idea when cold, but don't notice any real performance issues. Also keeping an eye on fuel gauge, as it seems to jump back up to full on occasion as the tank level goes down.

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