The 15 Y/O Turbo M42 Build Thread (Now Holley EFI Terminator X Controlled)

[Dj Buttchug]

Those were taken from pictures ive saved while doing research on intake building. I didnt create those. Basically im becoming familiar with all the different parameters of constructing a functional intake plenum. Theres a ton of stuff out there related to N/A engines but im having a hard time finding intakes designed for F/I applications.

Theres a chance the rules are essentially the same in relation to flow turbulence and volume but the more I read the more things change.

[unevolved]

CFD's a bitch.

[Dj Buttchug]

fixed the no start issue, fired it up tonight and finished up some more engine grounding. I forgot to ground the alternator out so my battery would charge. Somewhere along the line I mis marked the coil wires and I was running 2 in the wrong holes. LOL
Things to do:
Install new driveshaft center support
Re-wire electric fan and fabricate proper mounting
Order boost fittings for VDO
Free air calibrate LC1

If all goes well ill do another intro video tomorrow.

[Dj Buttchug]

So heres my thoughts on intake design style for my engine. Can someone confirm that the vacuum port on cyl #1 here is for either the brake booster or for crankcase vent recirculation? This is a Jun style intake for an sr20det

Crankcase vent recirc would make more sense in this located due to the style of the manifold. With this style cyl 1 is usually the one that has the hardest time getting the most air. At least thats what it seems like from previous CFDs.

[ak-]

Idle air control is vaguely located on/near that runner on the sr20.
Or dammit it could be the PCV which means there has to be a check valve.

[e30guydownunder]

I was going to say Idle control also.

You vaguely touched on cylinder distribution. This can be helped with the taper of the plenum (present on the JUN example), placement of the TB AND consideration of the throttle blade position at part throttles as well as general runner placement on the inlet.

I am currently working on a custom inlet for M42, currently I am focusing on determining optimum runner length, inlet openning shape and size and runner taper. But I might start doing some CFD work on cylinder distribution.

When the guys came to me initially the plan was a simple plenum and runner with the theory that the big ass turbo would make up for any real inefficiencies, but since I have got started on the engine analyser side of things I'm kinda hell bent on optimising the setup a bit better than some "Oversize D" plenum extrusion with a TB thrown on the end and a bunch of runners that end up the M42 port size.

I will tell you that internal "flow distributors" are a sure fire way to generate a load of turbulence in the plenum and will not give you the desired results (which is evident on the pics you uploaded).

[Dj Buttchug]

^ good info. I think I will end up going with a simple tapered style manifold running an m50 TB at the end. Brake booster, amongst other things will be tied in on the under side of the manifold some place. The turbulence issue seems pretty important. I cant imagine the issue being any better with FI cars. Like you were saying intake runner length as well as intake volume plays a big part. The longer the runners the less torque, more top, your going to get and shorter runners means more lows... essentially. My only other question now is volume. Ive read several times the intake should be 60% the displacement of the engine NOT including runners?? what you think chris?

[e30guydownunder]

Put your take offs towards the rear of the manifold (smaller end of the taper) pressure is more stable (Refer every performance Audi Intake since about '85).

You have that backwards. The shorter runners generally are suited towards higher RPM, longer for more torque. Regarding volume. I have heard in the region of 1.5x displacement for FI. so around 2.7L for us. I have a mate who had a 5-6L plenum on a similar sized engine, throttle response was very laggy as a result.

I havent done any hard research on sizing of stuff myself but from the few simulations I have done, anything below a 5" runner length started too hurt power. I haven't done alot of research above 5" yet. The problem with a longer runner is getting sufficient runner taper which seems to promote good power fro 4500 rpm onwards

[e30guydownunder]

Like at the top left of this inlet

[Dj Buttchug]

The interior is done. Dash flock came out pretty good. There are some minor imperfections that annoy me, but its whatever. Im not worried about them now.


Got my seats bolted down and adjusted. The two switches on the center console are for some accessories I am running. The one closest to the shift boot is the electric fan switch. The second one is for a distilled water mist setup. I will show you how to build one once I upload more pictures.

Shift knob of choice. Matching red stitching on shift boot and ebrake boot to match seats.

LC1 test button mounted directly under AFR gauge for easy access


Heres my AVCR boost control mounting location. Its easy for me to reach through the wheel and change settings on the fly. And yes, 349 miles on new engine.


One last one of the drivers side perspective. iphone picks suckin it hard

[MF DOOM]

You might want to pm e30_rob about the plenum design. I know they ran one on their turbo track car. Plus that guy is filled with usefull information.

Interested in that water mist setup.

[Dj Buttchug]

Distilled Water Mist.

To anyone that has an intercooler this might be of some interest to you. This is my mini DIY on how to create a mist kit using the OEM windshield washer sprayer pump. For this install I will be using a separate tank and pump wired in independently to supply the mist. More pics of the tank and other hardware SOON!!

Purpose: A distilled water mist sprayed onto an air to air cooler will significantly reduce the temperature of the intercooler in turn reducing the air temp moving through it and finally giving you a much denser, colder intake charge into the engine that will hopefully yield more power.

Okay cool. Evaporation. Like one of those shitty ass swamp coolers. Works the exact same way. Some WRX and STI bros claim distilled h2o mist setup will reduce intake air temps by 30 degrees. In 2005-2006 Subaru developed a OEM mist setup that came stock on the STI. hmmm, that means it must work.

We will find out cause buttchug has a temp sensor just for measuring intake air.

Step 1: Obtain cheesy porch monkey misting kit from local hardware store/home depot/ Ace. (no racism srs)

Mine cost 17$



Step 2: Make sure the kit you buy is outfitted with these brass misters. They are much better quality than the plastic ones and they deliver a much finer mist spray, perfect for super cooling intercoolers!

Step 3: Mod accordingly. My intercooler is rather small (will upgrade later) so Im running all six misters in a offset fashion to best cover the whole intercooler.



Step 4: Admire your creation. Its 104 outside right now so I am waiting till later this afternoon to start the install and test fit.



I will most likely use a fine gauge metal rod to mount the plumbing. When mounting, you want the misters to sit somewhat in front of the intercooler. This will allow the water mist to cover much more surface area and give better results.

More to come.

[wazzu70]

Some info on intake size

http://mysite.verizon.net/vzezeqah/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/inductionsystems.pdf

The design like the SR intake you showed is a good layout. The key is to have the plenum angle away from the #1 runner with a smooth radius. The mistake most make is to put the front wall of the intake perpendicular to the runner which requires the air to make a 90deg turn to the first runner.

Another tip is to extend the runners into the plenum. Terminating the bellmouth right at the wall of the plenum is a bad design (although common!) inserting it into the plenum a bit keeps the inlet in the cleaner airflow.

Look at the AMS F1-I intake manifold for EVO to get some ideas. This is a pretty good manifold, I would move the TB flange further away from the runner if you have the space.

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/AMS-Mitsubishi-Lancer-Evolution-VIII-IX-8-9-F1-I-Intake-Manifold.html

[Dj Buttchug]

Some info on intake size

http://mysite.verizon.net/vzezeqah/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/inductionsystems.pdf

The design like the SR intake you showed is a good layout. The key is to have the plenum angle away from the #1 runner with a smooth radius. The mistake most make is to put the front wall of the intake perpendicular to the runner which requires the air to make a 90deg turn to the first runner.

Another tip is to extend the runners into the plenum. Terminating the bellmouth right at the wall of the plenum is a bad design (although common!) inserting it into the plenum a bit keeps the inlet in the cleaner airflow.

Look at the AMS F1-I intake manifold for EVO to get some ideas. This is a pretty good manifold, I would move the TB flange further away from the runner if you have the space.

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/A...-Manifold.html

wow that first link is gold. Thank you!

[lambo]

I apologize if you mentioned this earlier, but are those real Brides or reps? How comortable are they?