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I liked the video! I've had a few issues with pedal/brake pressure on my car over the years. Swapping out rotors and pads helped a bunch as did replacing the original brake hoses and thoroughly bleeding the system.Comment
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Was that a diesel trunk in front of you?Comment
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Enjoy a photo dump and a Youtube video. Just changed out a few small items while wiring in my tach, nothing too exciting. Autocross video 2 to come in the next week or so. Also, finished moving into a new house with a garage so I have a few projects beginning to be planned. First up will most likely be refinish Zender valance and Mtech1 wing, but I'm no bodywork expert.
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This car is sweet, looks great with those wheels. Agreed on the shots!
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Ok, had another rusty brake line go out on me today so a few questions to ask the r3v-hivemind...
1) Has anyone used the Chase Bays brake booster elimination reservoir set up?
2) Any advice on running all new brake lines?
3) If I were to go to run new brake lines, I would also like to run new fuel lines. How is the job to drop the tank and redo that setup?
4) Finally, worth it to go to one fuel pump, I think my eta has the two pump set up?
Obviously, I am planning for a full fall-winter-spring project set up and would like to do everything in one giant sweep.
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http://www.fedhillusa.com/ - cunifer brake line and tube nuts
https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...ring-tool.html - brake line flare tool
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/H...xoCReYQAvD_BwE - Bimmerworld / stoptech Dot hoses
1. I believe that kits garbage and makes no sense unless you’re lazy. keep twin masters if you delete your booster…
2. See above and test a few bending tools that you like before you start.
3. You’ll find more fuel hose on top of the tank to be replaced, good time to upgrade to the large tank - spectra. You can get replacement fuel lines from the dealer. I made mine from stainless also with brake lines. A harder but more satisfying way to do it.
4. Larger tank runs one in tank pump
Take your time and do it right, brake / fuel plumbing is nothing to gamble.
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Keep the booster.
Seconded on getting a new tank, be sure to put new foam or sound deadening on top where it touches the body, and get new tank isolator mounts where it bolts in if possible. You may have to do some cutting to get the new tank to fit if you go to single pump, but you also need to extend wiring from the main pump as the lift pump power probably isn't suitable for a single pump.
Cunifer for the brake lines for sure, and you can potentially reuse some fittings depending on their condition, but a selection of new stuff is good to have. I suggest getting a bench bender and copying the lines off of the car, but in reality you can do all of the bending by hand, or with a piece of pipe with cunifer.
In fairness, since your car isn't exactly in primo shape I see nothing wrong with simply running soft lines to replace any dead fuel pipes, providing you can secure the soft lines so there is no sag. Clearly, if this is a prelude to more restoration then you ought to use metal lines, and while cunifer can also work it's easy to kink when you change a fuel filter or replace soft lines again down the road if you are not very careful.
If you opt to not replace the tank (which you probably need to as the filler neck inlet is probably rusted) you can lower the tank partially and sneak in new soft lines.Comment
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Ah you guys, breathing some sense back into me. I am lazy and do like the quick fixes. But also don't want to get too trashy with repairs where people begin to expect big vape clouds when I open the doors. Began poking around to find the bad lines and its pretty toast. Going to just replace that one for now and then begin planning for the winter. The right way. The car is rustier than I remember and it was slightly defeating digging around underneath it.
The line that is bad runs to the rear along side the fuel lines and connects in the engine bay at some large (2-3") piece where the exiting line runs to the abs module. At first I thought it might be the pressure regulator I read about but doesn't match up well to RealOEM. So no idea what it is but the lines are pretty seized into it.
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I would encourage you to plan to replace any lines that are connected to the one you plan to replace as it's likely that a failure will occur after you disconnect the faulty ones after disturbing the area, especially in the area just below the master.Comment
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Here's a visual of where I am and the piece I'm trying to ID.
Line 5 here is good. This line is what is inserted into the top of the piece in the following picture. I need to disconnect and replace the line out of the bottom of this piece. But, it is quite stuck in there...
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Maybe it's an early model thing, I don't remember it being there on any late model I replaced lines on, but I could easily be wrong. But considering how it just looks like a union I think you can safely delete it and replace both lines with one, or get a new union to keep the stock retention system.Comment
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