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SLC: 1989 Zinno coupe. Superlight, Super Functional *6spd swap inside*

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    looks great! i'm jealous of the M50.

    How long did the steering wheel take to get redone? What battery is that?

    Leave a comment:


  • mitchlikesbikes
    replied
    it's been a minute since i posted a normal update. car has been running well and driving for almost a month. having issues passing the emissions sniffer test to get it registered so i have a few things to do to try and get that hammered out. not trying to type too much so i'll let the photos do the talking for the most part. overall the car feels and runs great, the powerband and responsiveness of the m50 with 6 gears behind it is phenomenal compared to the old m20 and 5 speed.

    since the update i have installed my kooglewerks spoiler (still needs support rods), installed a new odyssey 680 and added a cutoff switch, and finished up the swap stuff and engine bay. also got my rewrapped mtech1 back from jordan at stitchedwheels.

    Untitled by mitch allen, on Flickr

    Untitled by mitch allen, on Flickr

    Untitled by mitch allen, on Flickr

    Untitled by mitch allen, on Flickr

    Untitled by mitch allen, on Flickr

    Untitled by mitch allen, on Flickr

    Untitled by mitch allen, on Flickr

    Untitled by mitch allen, on Flickr

    Untitled by mitch allen, on Flickr

    Untitled by mitch allen, on Flickr

    Untitled by mitch allen, on Flickr

    Untitled by mitch allen, on Flickr

    Untitled by mitch allen, on Flickr

    Untitled by mitch allen, on Flickr

    Leave a comment:


  • wworm
    replied
    Originally posted by 2mAn View Post
    The reason most of the 24v cars sound like crap is the setup people make. Ive heard a LOT of different 24v setups and a lot dont sound too great, but look closer at what they built and its not surprise. Those who take time to build a proper system will reap the benefits of delicious exhaust noise.
    care to get into more detail with this?

    Leave a comment:


  • ahrensNW
    replied
    Funny, after crawling around under my car I found out I have the same spring rates. Gc coils on stock perch locations, gc camber plates and rear shock mounts. But I want to be kind of low so my front konis are blown to shit. I've been looking into sectioning the front struts and welding some m3 sway bar tabs on, I think it'd be pretty beneficial.

    Leave a comment:


  • mitchlikesbikes
    replied
    Originally posted by ahrensNW View Post
    What spring rates are you running for your gc? What shocks and struts?
    445f/650r

    Koni SA yellow shocks front
    Koni yellow nonadjustible shocks rear
    Cut off factory front perches and used GC ones but did not shorten housings
    "Silver project" polish/eBay front camber plates

    Ride is stiff but solid and bearable. Body roll and overall handling is worlds better than the old Vogtland springs

    Leave a comment:


  • ahrensNW
    replied
    What spring rates are you running for your gc? What shocks and struts?

    Leave a comment:


  • Mushi
    replied
    I like the fan switch idea and placement. I have mine on all the time but I am planning to make a switch in the engine bay somewhere to have it off if I am doing tuning on position 2.

    Leave a comment:


  • mitchlikesbikes
    replied
    mounted the electric fan, wrapped the harness, and installed it. i haven't completed the wiring to the temp switch yet but i tested the fan via the manual override switch in the dash and it works great. i may upgrade to a curved blade fan with a higher cfm rating at some point but for now i will try this one. i used a switch blank to mount a toggle switch in the spot where the fog light switch used to be. i also wrapped the front end harness for the lights and what not. i used two deutsch connectors to split the wiring near the headlight on the driver side so the front clip can be removed without unhooking all of the wiring. i the third 2 terminal deutsch connector in the photo is for the temp switch wiring that isn't complete yet. while i was wrapping and slimming out the front end wiring i did some clean up. i removed all of the ABS wiring that has been hanging around since i deleted the abs two years ago, save for the stuff running to the rear end. i also removed all of the factory aux fan wiring since i am no longer going to need it. i am finally pretty close to having all of the unecessary wiring cut out. i have removed probably 20lbs+ of wiring alone from this car over the years.











    Leave a comment:


  • 2mAn
    replied
    The reason most of the 24v cars sound like crap is the setup people make. Ive heard a LOT of different 24v setups and a lot dont sound too great, but look closer at what they built and its not surprise. Those who take time to build a proper system will reap the benefits of delicious exhaust noise.

    Leave a comment:


  • E30335i
    replied
    I’ve said this many times; when you have a m20 and put a s52 in it, it’s amazing. Then when you hear a muffler delete, leaking exhaust it sounds so much better than a swapped car


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • rturbo 930
    replied
    The US 24V motors do sound awful (among the worst sounding inline sixes around), but to say that an M20 exhaust doesn't sound good is blasphemy!

    Leave a comment:


  • jeenyus
    replied
    Originally posted by varg View Post
    Guess again! I'm pretty well versed in the sounds of BMW I6s. I tuned a healthy high compression NA M20 you may have seen on this forum just recently, the exhaust was raspy and overall meh aside from the overrun crackle, but the intake noise (when you can hear it, like on tip in) is mighty nice. Sounded better than a spec E30 car though, those sound like a civic with a couple of extra cylinders. A loud M5X powered track car I heard at Sebring fairly recently was one of the worst sounding cars I've ever heard in my life. I6 induction noise is good though, and should always be encouraged over loud exhaust. Funny enough, turbo M20 exhaust sounds way better than NA. The turbo takes the rasp out quite effectively and they tend to have a nice deep sound because of it, but turbo induction noise sounds pretty much the same no matter what configuration the engine is.
    I'm surprised a M5X was so terrible. I am leaning toward that for a swap... :(

    I'd say it's time for me to do a valve adjustment though. My induction noise is minimal currently and i feel like that's becuase of the valve noise.

    Leave a comment:


  • varg
    replied
    Originally posted by jeenyus View Post
    you only say that because turbo. a well running m20 is awesome
    Guess again! I'm pretty well versed in the sounds of BMW I6s. I tuned a healthy high compression NA M20 you may have seen on this forum just recently, the exhaust was raspy and overall meh aside from the overrun crackle, but the intake noise (when you can hear it, like on tip in) is mighty nice. Sounded better than a spec E30 car though, those sound like a civic with a couple of extra cylinders. A loud M5X powered track car I heard at Sebring fairly recently was one of the worst sounding cars I've ever heard in my life. I6 induction noise is good though, and should always be encouraged over loud exhaust. Funny enough, turbo M20 exhaust sounds way better than NA. The turbo takes the rasp out quite effectively and they tend to have a nice deep sound because of it, but turbo induction noise sounds pretty much the same no matter what configuration the engine is.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeenyus
    replied
    Originally posted by varg View Post
    Induction noise from a BMW I6 sounds better than exhaust noise anyway.
    you only say that because turbo. a well running m20 is awesome

    Leave a comment:


  • varg
    replied
    Induction noise from a BMW I6 sounds better than exhaust noise anyway.

    Leave a comment:

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