cameras ready prepare to flash

[s14brent]

So I got a few things checked off tonight. I was basically trying to figure out what would work in current form and future setups. I was playing with rack limiters as SLR provides the slip-on stackable style. With e46 arms and the SLR mini kit i was running 3 on ea side. I'm still doing the same amount with the new setup, but once I get the larger flares I can throw on some spacers and remove 1 rack limiter on each side and be able to utilize some of the increased angle this kit provides. I thought about setting it up and having the front wheels stick out a ton, but decided against it for now. Its truly an eye sore when i mocked it all up with 25mm spacers

In hindsight I'm not sure why I was afraid to go longer lca's over extended e36 m3 setup especially since I planned on going with different flares. The "super" length arms are only 27mm longer than the e46 lca's which basically means I'm 2mm wider than where I was with 25mm spacers (no big deal). The "ultra" arms are 11cm (according to their website - which is 110mm and I think those are more meant for e36/e46's vs e30s because they're more advertised so they can achieve full lock with 18" wheels/tires).

I think my kamotors standard flares are 1.25" flares, but that's not really accurate with the e30 front fender design since the stock fender lip sticks out past the mounting area. (technically 50mm-70mm flares would be ideal with this setup - 90mm is definitely going to be overkill unfortunately unless their measurement isn't true like a lot of ebay flares- but i doubt it based on charlies/tread and pics). I'm going to wait and see if there are any black friday sales for the BDC sedan m3 fender flares. I've been a fan of those since released. I just hate that shipping would be an additional $200 - so I may have to pick them up if anything.
Also, I have those AKG swaybar end links thinking they were going on extended e36 m3 lca's before I upgraded. I noticed SLR sells their own sway bar endlinks with a thicker machined spacer so the endlink doesnt have as bad of an angle as mine do. They also use 8mm hardware vs 10mm though.



sorry the whole car is pretty filthy since last event (months ago damnit lol) Heres a quick pic of the suspension when i only had 2 rack limiters in vs 3. Also turning from lock to lock it felt smooth, no binding or rubbing whatsoever. Also will be sure to take pics later to show difference in caster. I'm thrilled. It made doing all this totally worth it!!

also when the car's on the ground on its own weight, the sway bar endlink angle isn't as horrible as I thought it'd be.



Apparently not all 16" wheels clear these kits. it was this close before but I guess I never noticed. Hopefully I'll finish putting on the hood and drive it for once and report back.

[s14brent]

As far as oil pressure, the more work you're doing in the car, the more work the motor is usually doing. Its really hard to catch the oil pressure gauge on a low pressure scenario. Id get a 20PSI switch hooked up to a light if you don't have something simulator. Although the oil pressure gauge is good tool for diagnostics, but tough to monitor when in the zone.

I don't know though how drifting and E34 oil pans handle oil starvation.

Whats the limiting factor in the fuel rail?

agreed! I wanted to look into hooking up a light, but tbh it seems like getting some nicer/newer gauges with built in warning lights would be nice. i've set warning lights on the apexi' el series gauges in my old s-chassis, and they were simple to operate. Ideally, just take all the gauges out and throw in a STACK but loool money. The car won't be for purely drifting - I don't think. I'm doing a lot of this stuff to just learn/teach myself how to do things really and most of it is unnecessary for drifting I'd say. it's just sad that I think my ideal auto-x alignment specs are not what I currently run for drifting and I really don't have an alignment hook up either so it adds up quick - and my local auto-x.....i dont know if they've changed, but I showed up 25 min late and wasn't allowed to participate and lost my entry fee. It really shouldn't be THAT serious for auto-x in my opinion. There are a few track days happening this month (spring mountain, and our local rip off "race experience" track, but they are $350-375+ track membership or fees. Kind of out of my price range at the moment.

So the e34 oil pan is pretty much why my car ride height is so damn high....I'm not used to it still - if I stare at it too long I always want to drop it lower but I have to remind myself of that stupid pan that i'm so scared of cracking. I'm currently running one of the 1st gen hik fab skid plates for a m20 (modified to fit the s52), the thing is super beefy, i'll try to remember to take a photo of how low it sits though.
I have the achilles e34 oil pan baffle and oil cooler setup, but I do the old e36 track guys trick of adding in 3/4-1quart of oil extra at the track. and i use an evacuator down the dipstick tube to take it back out before driving home. - but i've been changing the oil after every track event also, so it seems to be overkill. I also go on a full tank because I worry about fuel starvation. I really want to do a 2.5-3qt accusump setup and a radium fuel surge tank just for peace of mind, and most likely will eventually. I priced both out and it'd be about $800 for the accusump with the electronic valve tapped into my oil cooler setup, but I haven't found an ideal place I'd like to mount it without running 10' of -12 AN. The Radium setup would probably cost pretty close to that after putting -AN lines into account with the second pump.
(sidenote: have you seen kmiata/kpower industries oil pan clearance for their swap kit? It's pretty damn amazing, i believe its even with the subframe - it looked in the pictures they posted at least, and it's a baffled custom pan, that you can have a oil drain bung added if you want to boost it) I'm pretty sure touge factory's oil pan is similar - it might be higher capacity. Anyways.....lots of cool swaps out there now days - but the s52 is strong and takes a beating like a champ so I can't complain - I think I'd be happier with a little more power but I'm definitely okay with only burning up a pair of tires after a full track day - and the power level for local track layout is good enough to link most of it)

I don't think theres a limiting factor in the m50 fuel rail. I just wanted to convert the front half first since my hardlines are kinda questionable, and eventually do the surge so it'd be nice to have the whole feed/return lines done.
The problem I'm running into with the m50 fuel rail is that the hardline coming from the rail (both feed & return) is really short and has a large barbed end. It won't fit inside the -6 compression fittings, and I thought about getting another from the junkyard and grinding them down to test fit, but I don't think I want to chance that kind of crap on a fuel system. theres a perfect oem rail out there, but it's super hard to find. BMW part # 13-53-1-436-468. It's actually more expensive new than buying a nuke fuel rail which is stupid, but I'm not sure I'm wanting to do an external FPR because I'd have to find a place to mount that, and it seems unnecessary for a basically stock s52. The nice ones are li $3-400!! and not including the gauge, fittings, or lines! Everything is just money - It'd definitely be easier if I didn't have a house about as old as I am that I am that needs constant attention. Anyways, the plan is to keep checking junkyards or ebay for the oem rail, no real rush to do that or keep my car down longer than necessary.

Oh, and for image tagging/keywords, I do that all for work, but I never do it for any personal project stuff. Most the time it goes straight from my phone to the app/gallery.

sorry for the super long response. sheesh.

[moatilliatta]

I did photobucket's yearly plan, Not sure how much it is, Maybe $40-$60. I don't use it commercially though, just hobby. The app is ok, I do need a lesson and make some reserved time in photo management.

Id like add a gallery to Wix, and have a pool of photos that you would could search by scroll down list of "Tags" Like "E30" "S52" "Suspension" "ECT" and it would sort the photos as such "TAGS" you selected from the list.


As far as oil pressure, the more work you're doing in the car, the more work the motor is usually doing. Its really hard to catch the oil pressure gauge on a low pressure scenario. Id get a 20PSI switch hooked up to a light if you don't have something simulator. Although the oil pressure gauge is good tool for diagnostics, but tough to monitor when in the zone.

I don't know though how drifting and E34 oil pans handle oil starvation.

Whats the limiting factor in the fuel rail?

[s14brent]

thanks guys'.

As for photo hosting, photobucket took too long to offer an affordable fix. IIRC they wanted $500+ for their low resolution hosting services basically holding images hostage for people's blogs, websites, etc. I wasn't going to sub with a company willing to do that to their users. And it wasn't a price thing, I already was paying almost $200 for my client viewing site through zenfolio which is why i switched everything over the first time. They had great service back in the day, and they had a semi-decent mobile app to make life easier. However when the images stop loading in a timely fashion, it just becomes an embarrassment and frustrating for both me and the clients. I do not mind the back-end work, (it actually wasn't that bad) with the new site layout you just double click your images and replace the link, no need to retag anything with [ img ] bars.

I haven't taken the car off jackstands yet, I wanted to address a few more things which should be wrapped up by Saturday if all goes to plan. I've been dealing with a few other issues so I had to take a break from the car and focus on work as more money is going out than going in. I highly considered going CSR Rad, but literally no issues with my mishimoto currently, and I can swap out a radiator fairly quickly. And thank goodness theres barely any humidity here. It's absolutely miserable when there is though.

edit: I have a vdo oil temp gauge, but to be honest i keep an eye out on coolant temp/oil pressure more than anything. I'll try to make not of oil temps on my next time bringing her out.
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I got the fittings/ptfe hose in from deatschwerks. I came to a conclusion I'm going to need to upgrade fuel rail* as i dont feel comfortable shaving down the short barbed ends on the m50 rail to make this work. I'll probably be looking for the same rail charlie's using (528i) rail with FPR on the end.



and I just got these delivered maybe less than an hour ago, so I'll be installing these along with akg sway bar endlinks, and most likely going back to the normal Fortune Auto camber plates since the akg fcabs should be able to dial in the caster appropriately on its' own now. test driving the car might lead me straight to the alignment shop after, and i'm doing this even though my wheels will be sticking out a lot further. - No ETA on the flares I ordered yet unfortunately.



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edit: no sense in posting twice in 24hrs. I had to drill out the sway bar mount holes on the new LCA's to fit the beefier 10mm hardware AKG supplied. I actually mixed some of the old swaybar hardware in there to fit into the SLR opening.



I had to upgrade the tie rod arms from 8" to 10", but I think my alignment should be spot on since all I had to do was swap the outers. I'm pretty pumped to drive this thing this weekend hopefully - nothing special, just want to check my alignment and drive around with ac on and watch my temp gauge - pretty much to see if all these mods helped or not for city driving at least LOL. Even though the LCA's are all bolted down and torqued to spec. I still have to check wheel fitment, spacers, and make sure there's no rubbing lock to lock. I'd like to see if I can get rid of a SLR slip-on rack limiter - but I doubt it unless I put on a large spacer. Oh and I need to lower it down, and adjust sway bar endlinks on its own weight.
The SLR "super" LCA's aren't actually that much longer than the e46 arms, I thought the measurement they gave me was on top of the e46 arm length not stock. I think the 90mm flares are going to be wayy too much but its taking way too long for this set *as of right now its been 31 days since ordered and I think they're still in Russia. - so I don't plan on ordering another pair - might wait to see what kind of cyber monday deals are going on. Oh and since these aren't the extended e36 m3 lca's as planned - i think the caster is somewhere between e36m3 arms and e46, (which isn't bad...but isn't great either) so I think I'll be leaving on the SLR camber/caster plates and leaving the jam nuts off the akg fcabs also.

[moatilliatta]

Thanks for keep us updated. Glad to see your still at it and motivation to help keep me at it.

I just stuck with photo bucket and paid them, in the end, nothing is free... And all other options were more work.

No chance to see if things are running cooler? Do you have oil temp gauge?

As far as radiators, I have the Z3M mishimoto radiator that if I was to do it all again, I would do an E36 C&R. Thinner more efficient core, good enough for S54 E36s.

I was measuring it out, E36 radiator has more surface area than E46. And the thicker the radiator, then harder it is for the air to go thru, not to mention some weight savings.

Im sure aero and frontal area need work for track use, I’m not even sure about drifting, seems like fans are your hope when sideways.

At least it’s not humid there?

[vWBIRDWv]

good read!

[s14brent]

i like to be able to have a place to store images for both work & personal (via mobile - that I can then delete off mobile device) in one place - that has a mobile app I can upload/export from and offers password protected galleries for work clients. This whole thread has now been updated to new smugmug links for e30 content. (i'm glad that's over) I even added a few missing photos which was kind of fun seeing the build again. This is the one build thread I actually care about since the amount of work that's gone into it.
------------
no real actual e30 updates here, but I did place an order with deatschwerks, I'll be converting the front half of the fuel system over to PTFE steel braided lines and got all necessary 5/16 to -6 fittings. It's pricey stuff, but I have been feeling a little uneasy with my fuel feed & return hardlines being in pretty bad shape towards the front half of the car. (If you follow the hardlines from the front, maybe 6" after the actual hose connects the hardlines are in perfect shape. I think both feed/return hardlines can be had at about $150-160+shipping. So i'm trying to look at it like I spent about $140 more towards the complete front upgrade since i won't have to replace the 8mm rubber bits. And if anything - it will give me the confidence to do the rear half eventually, which I may want to add a fuel surge with the an additional 190lph pump. I swear, fuel and oil starvation are my biggest concerns most the time.

Also...I'm not be getting the extended e36 m3 lca's from SLR, but rather the tubular "super length" which is 110mm over stock e30 stuff. Production is backed up at SLR (thanks to the pandemic), and I decided to simply just get what they had on hand - which is actually probably something I should have done in the first place. Oh and I'm not sure if I mentioned it, but I ordered a pair of 90mm flares from jumdoo or whatever - shipping is gonna take probably another 2-3 weeks since it's coming from russia. Those flares should accommodate these longer arms - so it's all working out!

------
here's some pics of what I was complaining about a few weeks ago in an earlier post


^ new pump, and i coated the inside with a textured evaporative cooler undercoating spray. It wasn't looking so great prior with all the calcium build up and crap, used the opportunity to clean out the filters really well (i replaced them right after I bought the unit 2nd hand). I'm pretty sure the calcium build up is what killed the other pump, so I put some of those basket filters around the pump itself - not sure if those are just a scam or not, but I figured anything to help prolong the life of the unit would be welcomed.
I also installed a new drain that i just hook up via garden hose now, no more pushing the unit outside to dump out.

The trick is to throw in ice or an ice pack during use. makes vegas summers somewhat workable in the garage.
I also had to change the spigot out, there was a slow leak from the old unit - decided to try one of these sediment filters out to help prevent extra crap going into the cooler since the mesh micron screen is a lot finer than the little net baskets installed around the pump.

and finally, i had to change the 3' section of air hose on my compressor that goes to the air regulator/moisture trap. I also changed the oil in the compressor - it was long overdue.



oh and i know I haven't done a mini-update in a while, but I fucking love this damn bike so much now. I finally found an exhaust I wanted to try out (this is #4 i believe - most of them being wayyy too loud for neighborhood hooning. It also has the removable spark arrestor/silencer. I threw on some spare titanium exhaust wrap that I had from my last exhaust on the bike.



It doesn't look as cool now, I threw on some ghetto diy crash protector on there (hose clamp and spare hose LOL) but this exhaust costs way too much to replace in event of a wreck so i'm trying to preserve it


and i've been trying to go out once a week to get my stamina up riding in the heat. Next time I go to a socal kart track I don't want to take any breaks during our sessions LOL!! Here's a quick clip from the end of the night last saturday night

[ForcedFirebird]

As long as you reduce the file size, pics can be uploaded directly to your threads. Ever since the PB melt down, been uploading direct. Takes an extra step, but figure the posts will be more permanent here than any other hosting site.

[s14brent]

what. lol. dude just use Tapatalk. it's some bullshit, but lets you at least post pictures.

well all the images were rehosted there for "ease of use" after photobucket tried to hold all my images hostage. I'll probably relocate them and try to update this thread with new links before my sub runs out (sept. 17th). I'm going to give smug mug a go, i tried tapatalk in the past, i ended up wanting to throw my phone against a wall. Maybe it's a bit simpler now?

EDIT: I signed up for smugmug basic membership, and i've updated a ton of e30 related posts already. maybe 5 pages left to do!! I was super pissed earlier at the other host since they were charging a crap-ton more - but the pro services are relatively priced in case I ever need to renew those types of services - but at least this one works flawlessly so far!

-----------------------------------

I got the replacement pulley on Saturday evening and got to install it the next evening. Good news was that the factory length belt did work with under drive turner PS pulley and ecs 8% over drive water pump pulley.



Upon rebleeding there was interference with the water pump pulley bolts and the fan for some reason, I'm guessing the pulley is a mm thicker than the replaced turner unit. (i added a small bolt/nut behind the radiator upper mount pads - to kind of keep it pushed forward - if that makes any sense. I literally just refilled the radiator so this was the quickest fix for now. The great news was that there are no leaks from the -AN fitting at the block or at the cap on that drain hose. This next photo was taken before the fix, but i'm also going to try and see if i can use different bolts there as well.



Oh yeah, and I found this 180 degree hose on pegasus auto - it's good up to 400 degrees, so I don't think I'll have to worry about the hose collapsing again at an event.



Also i covered up more of that aeroquip blue hose with the extra heat barrier that used to be on the heater hose 180 bend.

[jeenyus]

what. lol. dude just use Tapatalk. it's some bullshit, but lets you at least post pictures.

[s14brent]

ugh....so this thread is gonna be useless for a while, I'm cancelling my sub with zenfolio for image hosting since there's been nothing but issues for months now. I thought I could piggy back off a sub I had for work, but this would be unacceptable for clients let alone personal projects and bs sorry guys'

--RIP--

[s14brent]

well last night I decided to start installing some of the coolant upgrades I had laying around. - I didn't get too far, there's been what feels like a month long heat wave in Las Vegas. I figure I should start to do this while I wait for my LCA's from SLRSPEED. I need to tackle that when this part is done. so having the front end up in the air is going to be dual purpose.



I didn't get far until I noticed a problem. Not even sure how this happens, but I have a new one on the way from Pelican, so it should be here by the weekend. I also ordered a few of those clips that hold the headlight cover/grille in place. I keep losing them one by one somehow.



here's some comparison photos of the water pump pulleys (ecs 8% over driven on Left, Turner underdriven R)



I realized the e36 m3 power steering pulley differs from 325/328, due to bracket design. I have no choice but to run the turner underdriven PS pulley for now- which I kind of liked - so no big deal. I just dont want to spend $80ish on an oem pulley at the moment, I might need to find a custom sized belt however, we'll see. I have the larger turner belt that came with the kit, and a brand new oem length conti-tech, and string if i need to measure LOL!



stewart pump on the left, hepu w/metal impellar on right. big difference in quality here! Hepu has held up though, it looks brand new still.

and it kind of killed me to chop off the threads on this waterpump, but I did a much cleaner job this time around.




and lastly I installed the smaller ECS water pump pulley before calling it a night.



I finally installed the coolant block drain setup that I copied from charlie's thread. Literally had the parts leftover from my oil cooler setup (minus the cap and block adapter which i also ordered a lifetime ago it seems) and they've been sitting on a shelf for years pre-assembled LOL. I threw on a m14 washer, and some high temp thread sealant for the block side (since it's not flared on that end). I'm going to let it sit until the new pulley arrives and hopefully there's no leaks or issues there. I'm going to need to flush the block more often. I wasn't happy with the color of the old fluid - which was supposed to be only water wetter and distilled water.





I also noticed the 8mm hose going from the expansion tank to radiator was kind of gummy. It's an OEM BMW hose I ordered new a few years back. I really want to go aeroquip socketless hose here, but the size on the radiator and the expansion tank are slightly different so i need something a little more pliable. I picked up some 5/16 gates transmission hose from the oreillys near home. I should have gotten 3 feet to work with instead of 2, but we'll see how it works out when its' all put back together.

Hopefully will have some completed updates soon!!

[s14brent]

Well, guess what?! Vegasdrift' night event got cancelled again this weekend. I talked to the organizers, and looks like it won't be happen til "phase 3" opens in las vegas. which honestly feels like might be a while.

Meanwhile, I decided to install the N15 side vents or run no hood this weekend.



I thought maybe this time i should paint the vents off the car prior to install.



Jokes on me again....i slipped with the rivet gun on the last rivet on each side....masked the corners and sprayed them but you can totally tell, and vents need a new even coat.



Its also 1/4" off top to bottom, but perfect distance to the edge of the hood is spot on...go figure....anyways the plan down the line is to transfer these onto a blank cf hood or fiberglass hood, one preferably with oem latches, not sure I want to go the 4 hood pin route or not yet. Whenever I do that I'll be sure to hit up a local buddy who can knock out the measurements on all 3 vents. I might want to angle the vents differently next time around too. I'm not sure if you noticed, but this hood is pretty beat to shit, so i don't care too much. No matter the weight or looks, it should flow like a mf'er though.



I also bit the bullet on the front suspension. I ordered the extended e36 m3 LCA's from slrspeed. These should be roughly 30mm wider than my current e46 lca's, I also needed 9" outer tie rods, and I ordered up some 90mm flares to test fit from russia, I feel I should have ordered 70mm's but I think 90mm might be the ticket since I know some of these flares aren't true to their advertised measurements. LCA's will take 1.5-2 weeks to get here since they have to be built in-house and the flares are probably taking a boat to america (was told est. 4-5 weeks). With that noted, I ordered AKG front swaybar endlinks, and will have my fortune auto camber plates on hand so I can get rid of the camber /caster plates from SLR. I'm excited to have all the suspension play nice with each other finally! I can finally shut up about trying to dial it all in. I should also be able to remove one of the stacked slrspeed steering rack limiters for more steering angle. Also, ride height in rear is set, fronts will come down a tiny bit lower, but no point in doing it now if i plan to go back to FA camber plate setup. I'll do all of that at one time. Did I mention it's hot in Vegas?!



Also -speaking of the heat, not sure if i mentioned it, but my swamp cooler in the garage went out, after somewhat refurb'ing the unit, i found out the hose bibb/spigot in my garage is leaking. I took it all apart, and i needed a new bibb as the valve was broken on the old unit, but now I can't get it to seal to the pipe for the life of me now. I had it sitting for 2.5hrs today with sealant and it started leaking the minute i opened the valve at the water heater. I'll be trying another type of plumbing sealant most likely tomorrow. - just not excited at all about doing this a 3rd time (1st attempt was with ptfe teflon tape or whatever) ..meh. Anyways, more updates as they come along.

[s14brent]

Pretty sure a mixture of boredom, research and curiousity got the best of me. I feel from the past few events since I've been primarily doing drift events that I wanted to get a little less grip/squat (higher rates) in the rear for current my power level. So I've been thinking of changing spring rates on the car for quite some time now. I've been running e36 m3 fortune auto 500 coilovers that had 7k/9k swift springs. I thought about buying eibach springs but the fortune auto's use 60mm metric springs, while Eibach's come in 2.25/2.5 (even though i'm using IE perch in the rear that can take 2.25 springs/60mm). So I wasn't planning on downgrading to standard fortune auto spring set, so I forked up the cash for hopefully a setup more suited to my driving style. The E36 coilovers use 1" larger springs than the e30's do front and rear, so I got a little confused. Basically 7"- 7k fronts, 6"- 9k rears. I figured I'd be okay moving the 9k swifts from the rear up front and add some swift helper springs (so I could maintain preload) and ordering 6" 12k for the rear. Everything is fine all said and done, but I should have probably ordered 5" rear springs since the rear perch is bottomed out/max low but now the fronts can go wayy lower than the rears. I remember my Ground controls (when i was 4 lug) had custom rates 440lb/8k fronts and 650lb/12k rears, and I remember the rears being 5" and I remember the car felt stiffer with those rates than the fortune auto setup (7/9) when I switched over. Anyways, here's some pics and hopefully I learned a little about the suspension out of sheer curiousity.



swift 6" 12k rears showed up before anything else did. My old swift 9k springs (rear) measured under 6" at 5.75" for some reason.



I decided to try and add some torrington/thurst bearings front and rear. (supposedly helps with any binding, and can help with ease of preload adjustments). I noticed these things on a few FD cars when I used to photograph them back in the day. I think a falken tech told me about them when I asked years ago, so they've always been something I wanted to add on a future setup. It was kind of a bitch finding them, bimmerworld sells a pair for $60 with no real details on manufacturer. You can get SKF/KOYO/ETC if you look up the ID/OD you need for much cheaper ($20+ pair). For SAE springs, summit sells a lot of kits which makes research not as bad as metric sized springs.



I reset the rear adjustment (after this picture was taken) so the perch is as low as it can go currently with 6" 60mm springs. I still have about a 1.25" (two finger gap between the flare/tire), but the shock is also threaded all the way in, so preload is just spring being seated (which was recommended to me by Fortune Auto anyways). If i wanted to go lower in the future, I think I'd need a different setup in the rear. It's okay though, i'm not about that LOW-life anymore. - you can see the torringtons on top the IE perch which I believe adds 5mm in height (3mm bearing+ upper lower washers at 1mm ea)



Fronts are a cluster f*** of colors. Grey SLR speed caster/camber plates, blue anodized fortune auto radial bearing, blue swift 60mm spring, yellow-green swift helper springs, torringtons, green anodized fortune auto lock perch. Kind of bugs my OCD tbh - LOL. I set the preload up front to 1/4" of preload.

I spent some time readjusting height to what I had it set at prior, fronts might be a little higher after accidentally over adjusting - but due to time I wrapped it up so I'll reset height another day and test drive ASAP after - I'll try to get some photos of the ride height, but literally making it close to the same as before.



still putting off the stewart water pump/contitech belt and ecs oversized water pump pulley. It's a shame I'm going to have to cut off those beautiful clutch fan threads. I also got the side N15 hood vents to add on - center vent was feeling lonely!! I'll probably clean those up to prep/paint black before install.

[s14brent]

wish i could actually have some updates with some cool shit, but being a 1099 contractor during these times are a little rough right now. I was about to sign up for a vegasdrift event that was supposed to be this past weekend, but it ended up getting cancelled last minute, same with the local SCCA. Our local track hasn't reopened yet, i mean they did have the dragstrip open the prior weekend for test and tune, so i guess we were in high hopes.

One thing from last few events that I've been meaning to get dialed in better was the rear camber/alignment. I was eating through rear tires the past few events due to camber wear, past the point of flipping tires to save money. It would look perfectly usable half way through the day then I'd run maybe 2 more runs and the tires would chunk aggressively past any point of return. When I dropped the rear subframe to do the dual e46 caliper setup I trimmed the upper IE subframe bushings for better clearance (so you can get a wrench in there easier). So everything was pretty much ready for adjustment finally. I scheduled an appointment with Southwest bimmers to do just a rear alignment for me. I guess when doing the weld on tabs, it's probably best to mock it up under load a few times to make sure you can get specs desired. I bought this subframe from a guy from SW bimmers with the tabs pre-welded on (to save me time), so all I did was weld the reinforcements thinking I was good to go. I could only get the rear to a -2.25 from a -3.32 but considering -2 is "stock e30 spec" I guess this will be a slight improvement until I get another subframe (if i decide to redo the whole rear end - which i highly doubt).



Running through the normal checklist for tech inspection I found my battery ground clamp wasn't as secure as it could have been. I'm thinking i could have just replaced the bolt, but I've had this moroso 2 gauge sitting in a battery box from my old s-chassis forever. So I decided to cut off the terminal side and give it some extra length since the wire wasn't nearly as flexible.




So next I guess I'm going to pull the Turner underdrive pulleys out (might only remove waterpump and pulley (replace with ecs slightly larger pulley, also I pulled the trigger on a stewart high performance water pump finally) and may just leave tms (slightly smaller) PS pulley in there- hoping that the stock length belt will work in that config) all which requires removing the radiator/fan setup. But...the real killer part is that its 10pm currently and 102 outside still...so we'll see!! all for the quest of better cooling in the damn desert summer heats. Figured I'd leave the thermostat alone, its a rather new 88 degree I believe, but the mishimoto 68 degree thermostat has been kind of peaking interest, but I have kind of a mixed opinion on mishimoto even though i'm running quite a bit of their products on this car.