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  • s14brent
    replied
    I spent some time figuring out the wiring at the evap temp regulator on wedophones site. The ac switch was getting power and turning on the aux fan, but was not getting 12v at the pressure switch or compressor, and this is the only thing between all of that.





    What was weird though was that the pins on the relay were all backwards from the actual wiring colors labeled in the schematics. So when I ended up jumping pins 2 & 3 it ended up being 4&5 by wire color alone, and low and behold i had power to the compressor!! I won't have a replacement until next week when a friend gets back into town. This is another part from bmw which is now over $150 new, which is crazy!!

    also, my 4th spal fan bracket finally showed up, mounted the aux fan resistor



    sweet! i might be able to finally move forward from this whole ac business.
    Last edited by s14brent; 08-26-2020, 12:33 AM.

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  • s14brent
    replied
    welp....the bmw's will never get done now!! I picked up an 02' sv650 (only 5k miles!) to cruise around with friends. It's got an ohlins rear shock and a did 520 chain conversion with vortex front and rear sprockets and some woodcraft rear sets. Previous owner was pretty darn meticulous, all I really need are some bar-end mirrors (i guess nv law requires you to have two) and a fender eliminator kit (because the stock trim is bloody hideous) and a lot of ride time.

    Last edited by s14brent; 05-19-2017, 01:58 AM.

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  • s14brent
    replied
    Originally posted by jeenyus View Post
    Awesome work. Interested in how you make the fan shroud once it's in. I'm currently trying to decide how I'd like to make mine. I was probably going to just cut a circle out of a sheet of aluminum and mount it, but i didn't know if i could do it that way effectively.
    oh no, spal makes a rubber seal that they call a "shroud"....i want to eventually make some sheetmetal ducting basically a modified copy of the factory plastic stuff by the aux fan.
    I'm afraid I don't think I'll be able to fit a shroud on the back of my radiator.....there's just no room....maybe if i didn't have the ac compressor there but because I do, there is little to no clearance on that side of the radiator.

    I got 3/4 brackets for the spal fan in earlier today and couldn't help cutting them up to fit.



    and I checked the clearance with the 1/4" rubber spal shroud. The 14" fan previously mounted was a bit too close to the condenser. so overall this was worth revisiting. I just have to make sure the fan is wired up the correct way (another day).



    I found a friend who has the e30 evap valve in a box, I'll try to get that sometime this week or next and get back to trying to figure out why my ac compressor isn't getting power.
    Last edited by s14brent; 08-26-2020, 12:35 AM.

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    Awesome work. Interested in how you make the fan shroud once it's in. I'm currently trying to decide how I'd like to make mine. I was probably going to just cut a circle out of a sheet of aluminum and mount it, but i didn't know if i could do it that way effectively.

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  • s14brent
    replied
    finally finished the exhaust up this week...it's ugly - but fitment is spot on now. before it ran a bit too close to the axle flange for my liking.



    it still looks close, but theres enough clearance not to worry like before. also note axles will give a ton more clearance once off of jackstands and on the vehicles own weight.



    I ran it, it sounds great, but I threw two codes. one was an evap code since it's not hooked up, and the other is a speed sensor code. My plug was broken when i got the car, I've always meant to change it, even pulled a plug off an e36 that fit it.



    i cut the original connectors off because the wires were super dull. basically stripped back until the copper was like new and then soldered on the new plug. Unfortunately after all that i broke one of the squeeze tabs installing it...but the whole plug is in tact which is nice.



    as for the evap code, what are most of you guys doing? I don't have a charcoal canister, i believe mine was failing/falling apart anyways. Am I supposed to use an e36 or e30 "fuel tank breather/vacuum control valve"

    e36: which usually routes from charcoal canister to throttle body



    e30: which i'm not sure where it goes from the charcoal canister... but it'd definitely be easier to fit due to hose size



    The thing is, I have a spare e36 valve, I think my e30 one is long gone and there's no way I'm spending $140+ on that, i'd rather wait til i find a part-out or grab one from a junkyard car. I guess my question is, can I get away with using an e36 one?

    ------------------------

    I finally got my spal fan in. (30101517). I screwed up thinking the old 14" ebay fan mounting tabs would fit. So now I'm waiting on 4 mounting brackets.



    I also ordered the spal "fan shroud" gasket...not sure if i will be running it, it makes the "medium profile" fan thicker than I wanted (not sure if it will clear the brace/oil cooler/ps cooler setup).

    Last edited by s14brent; 08-26-2020, 12:38 AM.

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  • s14brent
    replied
    ------------E39 update
    After replacing the 50a fuse on for the SAP, I went to do the drive cycle on the car.



    Installed 18mm spark plug/o2 foulers



    The foulers had to be drilled out to 12mm (31/64) to fit the o2 element.
    I sent out my abs module to BBA-Reman for a rebuild. They were highly recommended on here, so I didn’t shop around, it cost about $175+shipping.



    Time for drive cycle test # 4? Fml….

    ------------E30 update
    I started to try to trace why my AC compressor won't get power. I started with the switch, and turns out the switch wasn't powering k1/pin85.






    I replaced the switch, turns out pelican parts sent me a dead switch. damn. Meanwhile I picked up a switch from a friend who went "full race car" and had his laying in a box!
    The compressor plug is still not getting power, checked power at the aux fan, then checked the resistor, voltage is something like 12v/8v - one of the ends is supposed to be a lower voltage than the other, so this looks like it's operating normal. UPDATE: Turns out the pressure switch wiring was wrong, still got to figure out if I’ve got the wrong wire to the compressor, still no voltage there….
    During all this testing I jumped the fan switch and found out my 14" fan sounds like it's dragging garbage bags on the high setting......I am planning to change to a higher cfm 16" SPAL (not slim, but mid for slightly higher cfm) while I'm in the process of removing the front end again, I decided to redo the oil cooler and ps cooler mounts while I'm in there.





    I also plugged all the previous holes I made for mounting and grinded it down. I will leave this bare for now, I have a feeling I will revisit this when I move the oil cooler and make room for an intercooler. Most likely make it out of aluminum next time.


    I picked up rallyroad’s e30 steering column gauge pod. I decided I wanted water temp up higher, and I’ll install the other pod when there’s a need for a boost gauge.



    Filled the empty spot down below with a volt gauge. I didn’t really like the digital one (my own mistake) I accidently glued it in where a mounting bolt should go, so I got rid of that.



    Also started version 3 (maybe?) of the exhaust. Wish I could use the chop saw right now, the weather is super nice out….hopefully more progress soon!!
    Last edited by s14brent; 08-26-2020, 12:41 AM.

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  • s14brent
    replied
    Originally posted by cspec View Post
    Sorry should have been more specific, you mentioned that you lowered the steering wheel angle in the first post with "I also lowered the steering wheel angle by using some square tubing as a spacer."
    I added some info to my response up above....also the square tubing spacer will only work on non-airbag models as airbag models have a horseshoe design

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  • cspec
    replied
    Originally posted by s14brent View Post
    I'm guessing you mean what i used on my e36 m3? Only issue was i had to use a momo to nardi adapter on top, so it was a bit thick, but it worked out well.

    Jwest description:

    "Offsets the steering wheel 12mm upward and 16mm rearward"

    http://www.jwesteng.com/shop/home/15...c-adapter.html
    Sorry should have been more specific, you mentioned that you lowered the steering wheel angle in the first post with "I also lowered the steering wheel angle by using some square tubing as a spacer."

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  • s14brent
    replied
    Originally posted by cspec View Post
    Could you tell us more about the spacer for the steering wheel angle? I'd like to fix mine too.
    I'm guessing you mean what i used on my e36 m3? Only issue was i had to use a momo to nardi adapter on top, so it was a bit thick, but it worked out well.

    Jwest description:

    "Offsets the steering wheel 12mm upward and 16mm rearward"




    If you're talking about the actual spacer...that i put between the column/dash bar (a long time ago that i eventually removed after installing the recaros) that was just square tubing drilled out to fit with longer grade 8 hardware. I did not like mine as the square tubing i used was too soft and was deformed from over tightening so definitely don't go cheap if you go that route

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  • cspec
    replied
    Could you tell us more about the spacer for the steering wheel angle? I'd like to fix mine too.

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  • AwakenNoMore
    replied
    You are going to love the PMC shifter. My brother has it in his car and its insanely fun to bang the gears. Thinking about getting one for myself.

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  • CorvallisBMW
    replied
    Wow, never seen fuses in that location before! What a PITA.

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    Originally posted by s14brent View Post
    wasn't a huge pain because my car car never leaves its jackstands LOL!!

    I also did a trans swap maybe a month ago, so my exhaust and drive shaft were already off. It is definitely easier if you have a second person to help out, but i used painters tape to hold the lower plate in place and going back in up top to put the screws in place - if that makes any sense


    That makes complete sense, thank you

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  • s14brent
    replied
    Originally posted by 2mAn View Post
    How much of a pain was it to install the PMC shifter? Do you have to get under the car to install it since it sandwiches in
    wasn't a huge pain because my car car never leaves its jackstands LOL!!

    I also did a trans swap maybe a month ago, so my exhaust and drive shaft were already off. It is definitely easier if you have a second person to help out, but i used painters tape to hold the lower plate in place and going back in up top to put the screws in place - if that makes any sense

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    How much of a pain was it to install the PMC shifter? Do you have to get under the car to install it since it sandwiches in

    Leave a comment:

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