California Dreamin': E30 Vert Build Inspired by Katy Perry

[Mwishlist]

Sorry, responded before I read the rest of the post!

If the main window is still leaking with the new seal, and it's not just the front corner; you need to either adjust the window or the top. The window should be sitting right in the channel of the new seal.

[LorenzeTorres]

Sorry, responded before I read the rest of the post!

If the main window is still leaking with the new seal, and it's not just the front corner; you need to either adjust the window or the top. The window should be sitting right in the channel of the new seal.

That's what I figured! Thanks for this. I'll be going to the body shop to have them adjust my door and see if that'll do the trick. If it doesn't, then I'll adjust the window.

I've noticed that my driver door doesn't quite close the way it should.

Will keep you posted!

[LorenzeTorres]

KONI SA FRONT INSERTS
I couldn't stand the clinking and clanking of my suspension and recently, it truly sounded like it was all going to fall apart. Remember the post earlier where my strut fell out? Yup, didn't want that happening again. Come to find out, ALL outer tie-rod nuts were loose and same for the control arm nuts as wells. The major cause of my clunking was the insert bouncing up and down in the housing because the collar was very loose.

Three tools that made my life easy was spring compressor, torch, and a table vice to hold the strut in place. This allowed me to removed the collar without having to wrestle with it.

Also note,I installed Koni's with part number ending in 1210. I didn't have any issues installing them, and I do know there's some confusion about these and the 1021's. I was told by the other vert guys to get part number 1021.

COST:
Full set of used Koni SA's : $100
Front Strut Mounts x 2: $41.00

Links:
KONIA SA 1210: https://konimarket.com/products/1986...iABEgLRMfD_BwE

Front Strut Mounts: https://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...1-139-452-M810

New insert awaiting to be installed. Need to remove old one first.
IMG_4119 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

I was worried that these wouldn't fit my 92 vert. Obviously they went in without an issue.
IMG_4120 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

Back to the removal, I used a torch to get things toasty and loosened up.
IMG_4121 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

Old: KYB Excel-G's. Leaky and had difficulty popping back up when depressed
New: Koni SA 1210. Dirty but in very good shape.
Notice the Koni has a shorter shaft.
IMG_4122 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

Old strut mounts were beat. In comparison to the new ones, they were shorter due to major wear.
IMG_4123 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

In order to get the strut mount and spring perch back on, a spring compressor was needed.
IMG_4124 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

Golden hour with Dylan. Thanks homie for lending a hand and being a great resource.
IMG_4137 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

Also held a E30 and E36 meet at a breakfast spot at a local airport in Halfmoon Bay, CA. Great turnout and really nice people.
IMG_4132 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

I have yet to install the rears since I've been waiting on some additional parts. However, I'll have another surprise for you guys tomorrow.

[2mAn]

I like the way you document your build. Good luck with the leak.

[Mike36]

How do the Konis feel? You may need to loosen your top frame and readjust it. Not easy and its taken me a few attempts. Maybe try removing a 1mm shim to move it forward.

[LorenzeTorres]

I like the way you document your build. Good luck with the leak.

Thanks for the kind words. I take a peep in your thread from time to time and it's so good.

[LorenzeTorres]

**BONUS AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS POST**

Sorry for keeping the suspense.... but I'm proud to present my Ford Taurus skirts! The paint is a little off, but whatever. They'll probably get ran over at the track or something.

These guys are mounted on by 3M tap and zipties. This is with the intention that the will have give and break off clean if I hit something.

Overall satisfied and would recommend to anyone

But before I post, I'll show you the work that went into fitting them.

Mocking up to drill
IMG_4079 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

My mounting points
IMG_4080 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

I contoured the edges so that it wasn't a straight edge at the bottom of the rear wheel arch.
IMG_4084 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

Spent time sanding, priming, and sanding again to save a couple bucks before they went into paint. Here's a pic next to the Breyton reps.
IMG_4088 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

Once they were out the shop, I cleaned them off and applied 3M double-sided tape.
IMG_4164 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

Pro-tip: Peel just the edges so that you have something to grab when you need to reposition them.
IMG_4165 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

.....boom! There ya have it!
IMG_4166 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

Very impressed!
IMG_4171 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

I'm gonna send some thank you packages to those who follow my thread. Email me your name and mailing address and I'll send them out this week. You guys giving feedback and advice is the reason why I keep going. I appreciate each and all of you!

EMAIL: Lorenzetorres@gmail.com
SUBJECT: Come up with something clever that will make lol

[LorenzeTorres]

3.73 LSD INSTALL
It's always been a goal to get this car on the track and do drift events. It's my everything car and if I want to drift, I should't let it limit me. So in efforts to make my dream reality, I bought a 3.73 LSD. This not only allows me to drift but it also provided my car with better gas mileage and less stress on motor. The car originally came with a 4.10 open diff. At 80ish MPH, I'd be doing about 4K RPM, whereas I'm doing 3.3-3.5k RPM at the same speed. It's nice that my second gear exists now.

Wanted to go welded diff but I was afraid that it rattle things loose or cause stress on other parts. Never ran into issues with the S13 running welded, but recently saw a friend's diff mounts shear off his E30.


Before I continue, allow me to indulge in my past with my S13.
IMG_4039 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

IMG_2496 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

COST:
Used 3.73 LSD: $350
Royal Purple 75W-140 diff fluid x 2: $34.00
Friction Modifier: $11
Hi-temp Silicone/ Gasket Maker: $10
Break cleaner: $4

IMG_4192 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

I'll try to keep it brief. I serviced the 3.73 diff by opening it up, cleaned off the old gasket, drained the nasty fluid, and sealed it back up with gasket maker. SHOUTS TO OSCAR LIM FOR HELPING ME OUT!
IMG_4194 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

Let is set/ for more than 4 hours so that it adheres. It's recommended you wait up to 24 hours before putting fluid in.... I didn't. No leaks though!
IMG_4195 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

To remove and install the diff was straight forward. Be sure to have a friend with you only because this shit is heavy. This is the only pic I took...
There are 5 bolts holding it to the chassis ranging from 17-19 mil
4 bolts to the driveshaft
6 bolts on each side connecting each driveshaft
Overall install time about 3-4 hours
IMG_4196 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

On a side note, can someone send over the links to buy new hangers for my exhaust. It's about to fall off.

[oekundar]

Nice progress


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LorenzeTorres]

Nice progress


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks!

[LorenzeTorres]

Nothing too crazy here. Thought my rears were clunking so I ordered new mounts and decided to install my rear struts. Turns out, I didn't realize that the struts I bought came with solid mounts, so all I really needed were the gaskets.

Car originally had Bilstein HD's and swapped them for these Mustang Koni SA's. I also threw on ECS's reinforcement plates too! This was a fun and easy job.

IMG_4201 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

IMG_4202 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

Till my next post, I'll just leave this here.... Pulled a mission with my homie (THANKS FREDDY) and left the Bay at 9PM, got to LA at 3AM, turned around and got back at 9AM. Never gave us a problem and drove through the cold, rain, and some snow. This car is a champ!
IMG_4258 by lorenze torres, on Flickr
IMG_4262 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

[LorenzeTorres]

To spare you guys another chapter of long words, tire shop stripped allen bolts on my adapters. They told me to go home and fix it myself since they closed early even though they had my car for four hours....

Here is my story in pics...

Titanium drill bits, PB Blaster, and a torch
IMG_4263 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

IMG_4264 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

IMG_4265 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

Here is the end result..
IMG_4269 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

[Levy3Poop]

To spare you guys another chapter of long words, tire shop stripped allen bolts on my adapters. They told me to go home and fix it myself since they closed early even though they had my car for four hours....

Here is my story in pics...

Titanium drill bits, PB Blaster, and a torch
IMG_4263 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

IMG_4264 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

IMG_4265 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

Here is the end result..
IMG_4269 by lorenze torres, on Flickr

Well that's bitch. Was it the manager that told you "tough shit"? Also, was it a local shop or a chain?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[2mAn]

Yea that spot needs to be put on blast

[LorenzeTorres]

Well that's bitch. Was it the manager that told you "tough shit"? Also, was it a local shop or a chain?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

It was a local shop that had one other store (which I've gone to for excellent work and service). I guess it's hard to expect the same level of customer service at a store 15 miles away.

We've had rims and tires mounted for RWB's, Liberty Walk builds, and other crazy stretched stuff and never had an issue. This was my first time going to their other location and my last.

Also, I'm sending your postcard out tomorrow!