Andrew's Sterlingsilber 90 325iS -> 318iS

[Andrew325is]

You’re going to swap the engine from the Z3 into the E30? Curious as to why you’d want to go from an M20 to a M44. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep. It's going to become a 318is. I wanted one of those to begin with, except they are missing some of the features I like such as cruise control, check control, OBC, map lights etc. Some of them have heated seats, but I don't think it's very common. This 325is has all that. I want the M44 for better handling (more M3-like), better MPG, and I like the OBD2 diagnostics. The M44 has several improvements over the E30 M42, including serpentine belts (as opposed to V-belts), extra torque at lower rpm (will help compensate for extra weight of the 325is), a DISA intake, knock sensors (so premium isn't required), and a MAF (the M42 AFM is expensive and no longer produced). If I decide later I want more power I can supercharge it or build it up, but I think it will be fine since this car is a daily driver I use to mostly run errands around town. I could save for an S14, but that's just it. They're very expensive and should probably stay in an M3 (or 320is). And an S14 still isn't OBD2. M44 is more advanced (DOHC, coils for each cylinder, etc.). Another plus is that the M44 produces lower emissions than the M20, especially this one since it has the SAP.

[ATL_E30]

You’re going to swap the engine from the Z3 into the E30? Curious as to why you’d want to go from an M20 to a M44. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Andrew325is]

I got a low mileage Z3 1.9 that's been very well maintained. From what I can tell from the Carfax it was 1-owner until late March of this year and then the second owner wrecked the front driver's side corner in July. About 1000 miles ago it had quite a bit of work done to it including replacing gaskets and seals in the engine. Most of the service was at BMW of Bellevue and BMW Seattle. I plan to use the engine with exhaust (at least forward of the muffler) and probably also the steering rack and shifter. I could also do the 5 lug conversion since it looks like I have everything except for the E36 M3 front struts and control arms, but I would need to find some E36 fitment wheels I like as much as the Euroweaves. Is there anything else on the car that's a good upgrade for the E30? I named it the Bond car since it's exactly the same as the one in GoldenEye haha.

[Andrew325is]

I renewed the front end. The PO included a new genuine BMW control arm for the right side so I just needed to get the left. The genuine one has Lemförder ball joints so I got a Lemförder for the left side. He told me not to touch the front end because it was all good, but that wasn't the case. (He had two of these cars so maybe he got them mixed up, who knows.) Everything needed replacement. I got E36 M3 tie rods and solid centered CABs, and also the stabilizer bar links and bushings. All Lemförder except I got genuine BMW stabilizer bar bushings. I got the CTA 8920 control arm bushing tool which made installing them a snap! The steering feels so tight now. It feels like a new BMW instead of a rickety old car like before. Now I just need to take it in for an alignment.

[nando]

Dang. I should buy one at that price. It won't be long and they will be $500 or NLA..

[Andrew325is]

The center console was about $150.

[laidback93]

What did that cost you? I didn't think they were available still.

Yeah I'd like to know the cost as well. The vinyl is bubbling up on this piece. Looks nasty.

[e30austin]

What did that cost you? I didn't think they were available still.

[Andrew325is]

I got a brand new center console. The vinyl covering on the old one is peeling on the back side and looks gnarly.

[Andrew325is]

I got the brakes and wheel bearings installed. It was more work than I expected. I had to buy a new tool set to install the rear bearings. I got Astro 78825. It worked well. There's a genuine BMW tool set (special tool 33 4 030), but it's kind of expensive. It's part # 83300492349. I think it only does 75mm bearings. There's a different one for 85mm bearings used in some other BMW models. It's nice the aftermarket kits can do multiple sizes.

I also took the opportunity to replace the internal hex bolts on the output shafts (to differential) with the updated Torx bolts used on 8/90+ E30s (part # 33211227279). They're about $20 each from BMW, but I was able to grab them from a 95 740i at a local wrecking yard.

The Bentley manual calls for Loctite 638 to put on the front bearing/hub dust caps which I couldn’t find locally. So I used Permatex 64000 which is similar. Also, I wasn’t sure at first how to install the locking ring over the rear axle nuts. I tapped them on with the socket I used to torque the nuts. That worked really well. Looks just like factory.

[Andrew325is]

Now I have all the parts to do the brakes and wheel bearings. I took quite a bit of time trying to research which brake pads to get since there are so many choices. I don't like cleaning the wheels all the time, so I want some that don't make a ton of dust, but I want them to stop well too. I decided on the Akebono for the front, and I got Centric PQ Pro for the rear (since there are no Akebono rears). I don't know what the formulation difference is exactly between the PQ Pro and the PosiQuiet Ceramic and Semi-Metallic (aside for an extra layer that is suppose to reduce the break-in period), so I called Centric and the rep I talked to didn't seem to know either. He said they're the same, but the PQ Pro come with roadside assistance. So who knows; I'll give them a try.

I got FAG for the bearings (the front hubs by Timken come with FAG bearings). And I got regular rubber ATE & Corteco hoses. Everyone goes with SS hoses, and I did on the last E30, but after I looked into it more I decided to go with the regular. The SS hoses deteriorate too, but you can't tell when with the braiding on them. I got Centric high carbon discs. I was thinking about getting the cryogenic ones, but they cost twice as much.

I painted the rebuilt calipers Nogaro silver. :) I wasn't sure if I should paint the piston & seal, so I masked those off. I used a 2k epoxy primer, followed by the basecoat and clearcoat.

[Andrew325is]

Yeah the tire shops appear to be professional, but they're really amateurs. Most of them don't even know what runout is. Only thing I could suggest is to try a different set of wheels/tires so you know for sure.

[jeenyus]

If the radial runout is beyond spec I would have the tire taken off the rim so you can measure the rim directly. If it’s just the tire that sounds like it’s defective.

Well so the story of mine is that I had no issues, put on some "new" tires I found on Amazon for so cheap that matched the other Nittos I was already using. As soon as they were replaced I've had issues with vibration ever since. Leads me to think it's an issue with the actual tire, which wouldn't surprise me being they were so cheap and probably issue tires to begin with.

I have taken them to a tire shop by work and they always say they balance right even with road testing balancing (simulates road conditions and pressure) they are claiming there is no issue. They then told me it was probably my drivetrain, well that sent me on a wild goose chase and it still didn't resolve anything. I mean I learned things from it, but the tire issue is still there.

I'm just blown away that a tire shop needs me to tell them to check for radial runout and that's not something they look for on their own, you know, being a tire shop and everything.

[Andrew325is]

Quick question on this. If you find out that you have radial run-out, how do you fix that? I can't seem to find the answer which is leading me to believe the answer is just "replace the tire". Would inflating them to like 40lbs help?

If the radial runout is beyond spec I would have the tire taken off the rim so you can measure the rim directly. If it’s just the tire that sounds like it’s defective.

[jeenyus]

I measured the runout of all the wheels with my new tool. They're all within spec. Of course that's the tires. I can't measure the wheels directly with the tires on them. BMW says maximum runout is 1.6 mm for the Z1/E30 (source) and 1.3 mm (axial) for E36 one-part alloys (source). Max lateral/axial runout on two of the wheels is 1.3 mm, and 1.0 mm and 0.8 mm for the other two. Radial runout are all within 1 mm. So they're pretty straight. I guess the shop did good straightening them.

Quick question on this. If you find out that you have radial run-out, how do you fix that? I can't seem to find the answer which is leading me to believe the answer is just "replace the tire". Would inflating them to like 40lbs help?