$1000 Sedan - Turbo Build - SOLD

[iso_hi]

I finished wiring my Wideband to the stock sensor last night. I pulled the boot on the engine harness to see the wires and figure out what each pin leads to. I didn't use pin 1 which would have tied to the brown spare signal wire on the lc2 controller side.

I'm not getting a green status light when I have it on "Key On". I haven't tried turning the engine on. Is that normal or should the controller be getting power even without the engine running?

[iso_hi]

I called Innovate and they confirmed that the LC2 controller status light should blink with the key in the "ON" position without the engine running. I tore down my controller harness to confirm that there was no mistakes in my wiring and everything checked out. I asked on the e30 discord if anyone was familiar with it and someone said that in the past they used a different power source, not the o2 loom. I did see multiple forum threads where another 12v switched power source was used. There was also many threads that simply said they used the stock o2 sensor loom and not much more details. I decided to only try the loom for a cleaner look in my previous post but I wasn't getting the status light on the controller to turn on.

After that discord conversation I unplugged the red LC2 wire from the stock o2 loom and hooked it up to the 12v switched power in the auxiliary fuse box. Everything worked properly and I should be able to calibrate my o2 sensor after I clean up my harness again. I'm not sure if my car having a 1986 build date with a late model engine harness is affecting my capability to simply use the o2 loom but I'm glad I got this figured out. Hopefully this helps someone in the future.

[Panici]

Glad you got the wiring figured out.

Make sure you follow the instructions to calibrate the O2 sensor in free-air before you put it in the exhaust pipe.
Also you'll have to configure the sensor in TunerStudio to read correctly.

[iso_hi]

Glad you got the wiring figured out.

Make sure you follow the instructions to calibrate the O2 sensor in free-air before you put it in the exhaust pipe.
Also you'll have to configure the sensor in TunerStudio to read correctly.

Yes I completed calibration in free-air and waited til the status light turned solid green on the LC2 controller. Then I used LM Programmer to set the lambda sensors settings to MS2 spec per DIYAUTOTUNE before calibrating my AFR table in TunerStudio.

I'm going to give it a run later today. Will post updates.

[iso_hi]

So glad you warned me about getting a wideband Panici.

My fuel table was severely lacking and I was definitely running lean. I've been driving for like 30 minutes now adjusting my fuel tables and it gets so much better with each change. Doesn't seem like any damage was done to the engine. I don't think I ever held boost for more than a second before getting the wideband.

I finally feel like I'm starting to figure out all the terminology and functions related to Megasquirt. There is still a ton to learn but feels good to know I am making progress.

Again, if anyone knows a tuner in Arizona a referral would be greatly appreciated. Or if anyone wants to take a shot at remote tuning.

Edit: I also figured out why I wasn't getting past 7psi. I was going over all my settings last night while watching the Coachella live streams and I had Overboost Protection on at 150kpa. I changed it to 210kpa since my maps are maxed at 200kpa. Will report with results later.

Edit 2: Ok I just took the car out and I can't get past 150kpa/7psi even after removing overboost protection completely. My maps go to 200kpa but it never climbs past 150kpa. Is my shitty $100 turbo my bottleneck? Could it be my stock fuel pump?

[Panici]

So glad you warned me about getting a wideband Panici.

My fuel table was severely lacking and I was definitely running lean. I've been driving for like 30 minutes now adjusting my fuel tables and it gets so much better with each change. Doesn't seem like any damage was done to the engine. I don't think I ever held boost for more than a second before getting the wideband.

Edit 2: Ok I just took the car out and I can't get past 150kpa/7psi even after removing overboost protection completely. My maps go to 200kpa but it never climbs past 150kpa. Is my shitty $100 turbo my bottleneck? Could it be my stock fuel pump?

Glad I could help. When I learned to tune I took things slowly and I haven't blown anything up yet!
FWIW I still have the lightest 4psi spring in my E30's wastegates after about 1500km of driving.


Speaking of taking things slowly, keep that boost turned down until you have your fuel table sorted for current boost levels. You can get away with lean spikes at low boost, but with it turned up you can melt things with a single lean event.

After you have the low-boost levels sorted, you can extrapolate upwards to fill in the rest of the table before you even get to those boost levels. Obviously it will have to be tweaked, but you can get it pretty close once you figure out the Volumetric Efficiency (how the engine breathes at RPM/load levels).

Speaking of which, do you have Incorporate AFR turned on in your ECU? It makes the AFR target table actually work, and then your VE table is closer to a "true" map of the VE.
If you've been tuning with the setting off, unfortunately you'll have to do the fuel table from scratch again as it changes the fuel calculation formula.

-
To answer your question about not going over 7psi: Check for boost leaks around silicone couplers. If you don't have bead rolled edges that could also be an issue.
Might be the wastegate. I have an eBay external gate in my Miata but use genuine Tial springs inside (from a local distributor).

[Fraser]

There are a lot of factors that go into boost control and hitting a specific level, including hardware itself, atmospheric conditions, day of the week, etc... Just know that because a specific wastegate spring says it's good for 7psi, 10psi, whatever, in real world conditions it may not control boost at that exact specific level. It's good habit to pick a spring that's basically the *lowest* boost setting you intend to use and then control it from there with a boost controller. It sounds from your description of the setup that you're not using any kind of boost control, which is theoretically fine but leaves you pretty powerless over boost levels. Adding an inexpensive or even DIY boost controller is going to help the arrangement a lot and you may look into controlling boost with MS later on down the road.

Overboost protection works as a safeguard in case something occurs that allows the boost level to blow past your intended setting- it's not a means to control boost at all but instead to cut power to prevent damage in case of overboost. Generally needs to be set a few psi above your general target boost level.

Also double check the vacuum/boost reference plumbing for both your wastegate and blow off valve- it's possible to have them hooked up incorrectly and have strange behavior as far as target boost is concerned. I once reinstalled my bov with the lines switched and it was basically opening under boost and preventing reaching boost levels over a certain level.

As far as getting the tuned dialed, I would contact John (forcedfirebird on here) for a basic setup and then you can get it pretty dialed yourself with VE analyze live. It's really important to take it slow and make sure you're starting off with a really conservative timing map.

[iso_hi]

Ok seems like I should just focus on my tune before even thinking about pushing boost. I was looking into a manual boost controller and it's a route I'm going to take. I'm trying to soak up as much information as I can, I have like 50 tabs open on my phone with different topics on megasquirt/boost/tuning. I appreciate you guys taking the time to go in depth on this since it gives me more clarity on what to search.

Panici, when I first set up Megasquirt I did not have Incorporate AFR on since I only had a narrowband. I did turn it on after I installed my Innovate LC2. And should I have also redone my Req_Fuel after installing the wideband? Sounds like I'll be starting my VE table all over since I want to be sure it was done with the proper settings. And I'll be going over my couplers there is one straight piece of aluminum intercooler pipe that doesn't have rolled edges so I'll be measuring and replacing it.

Fraser I believe my wastegate is hooked correctly, to the nipple on my turbo. I do not have a blowoff valve so I'll be getting one as well. Where does the vacuum line from the blow off valve usually attach to? I'll be reaching out to John and hopefully he can help me out.

Aaaaand this happened yesterday:



Yesterday I was cruising around town with Autotune trying to get a better understand of what values I should be seeing on my VE table, when suddenly it began bogging and cutting out under load. It didn't sound good under load at all but luckily there was a gas station near by and I was able to coast into a parking spot. Under the hood everything looked normal with everything connected and no leaks visible or smells. Then I remembered the loud noise my external fuel pump had been making the past week. The car would idle a bit lumpy but would just bog and die under load if I tried to restart it. Pretty sure it's the external pump.

My AAA was expired so I had to pay $75 to get it towed 2 miles home. I've had a Walbro in my parts stash so I'll be deleting the external pump for the single Walbro in tank and replacing the fuel filter. I need a break from wrenching I was way too stressed yesterday about leaving my car overnight at a gas station. I'll be heading out to Coachella music festival (hit me up if anyone of you will be out there) in a few days so I'll pick this back up next Tuesday or Wednesday. Hopefully I have a boost controller and blow off valve by then, I'm open to recommendations.

[Panici]

...I'll be deleting the external pump for the single Walbro in tank and replacing the fuel filter.

From this thread. You'll want to use the right hose to connect the in-tank pump.
Existing adapter is probably perished and also is not rated for a high-pressure pump.

I used Submersible-rated Gates 27097 (3/8" ID)
Bit of a bear to get on there, but it's been working fine.

[iso_hi]

I did manage to remove the in tank pump already and while my adapter still looks good I'll be replacing it with hose just for peace of mind.

[Panici]

I did manage to remove the in tank pump already and while my adapter still looks good I'll be replacing it with hose just for peace of mind.

Mine looked okay but blew out first time I fired up the upgraded fuel pump.
Use submersible rated hose as well, regular stuff breaks down quickly inside a tank.

I used regular hose for about a month and the outside was already going soft/gummy when I changed it out.

[iso_hi]

Ok back in business. I got back from Coachella last Monday but I got a cold or something and didn't touch the e30 til Saturday. I made sure my req_fuel was correct, turned EGO correction on, and reset my VE tables to remove anything auto tune had done. I went to start the car and it cranked for a few seconds before it fired up and died. This was the first start after removing the external pump.

Weird. I checked my fuses and connections and all my megasquirt settings. Everything was ok. I did not hear the pump at all when I did try to start the car so I figured might as well pull it and check everything. Bingo. The ground wire had undone itself from the ring terminal since I didn't crimp it hard enough. That was a simple fix at least. After I reinstalled the pump in the tank I was able to hear it with the key "ON" and it fired right up. Now I can get back to tuning. But I'm probably going to wait until tomorrow or Wednesday it's pretty hot out here today in Arizona and I still need to get my AC refilled.

[2mAn]

I got back from Coachella last Monday but I got a cold or something ...

COVID... both of my employees who went to Coachella came back with it lol

[iso_hi]

Yeah it could of been. I took a couple of rapid tests but I don't really trust those.

Anyways. I got tired of not having a tach and gauge clusters are stupid expensive now so I decided to try a digital dash via Shadow Dash. I've been researching tablets and decided on a Lenovo Tab 8. It was like $80 on Amazon then you also need a OTG USB adapter to connect to megasquirt. Clusters are going for like $200+ on eBay. Setup was pretty simple, you pay for Shadow Dash MS($15) and download the app to your tablet. Theres a quick initial setup when you first connect it to megasquirt so be sure you have internet connection for this bit. After confirming it was working I had to decide how to mount it.



I was going to get a nice cluster blank 3D printed but then I realized I wasn't going to have a fuel gauge if I went that route. So I decided to just trim my cluster a bit in order to get the tablet more flush. I removed the speedo and tach and that gave me space to run my cable behind the cluster to the glovebox for a cleaner look.



I was even able to swap the color to amber for a more OEM look. I took it for a ride earlier today and it worked great, including the GPS speedometer. My tune is also working out pretty good so far. My AFRs are basically in my target zone in boost and it pulls strong with no hiccups or cuts through the RPM range. I'd still like to get someone to tune it for me eventually.

[Northern]

I've thought about a tablet digital dash, but I'm not sure how bad the lag is these days.
I tried years ago on a galaxy tab 2 but the data refresh rate was like 2-3Hz and seemed to be the same across shadowdash and some other competitor that I forget (Realdash or something?).