Ian's E30 LS1 Swap

[CubbyChowder]

That is such a bummer, I'm sorry to hear man. Fingers crossed it's not an engine-out ordeal. Build is looking amazing though! Would love to see this ripping out at Buttonwillow sometime in the future.

[ian e30 318is]

aw man....sucks to hear that! what are you doing for crank case ventilation currently? I know most local drift dudes swear by the chasebays dual catch can system.

Thanks man. Yeah definitely a bummer. Currently have a Mighty Mouse catch can setup. Was using the non-vented cap, but switching to the PCV vented one when it goes back together. Also purchased a PCV vented oil cap that I'll need to put on as well.

Plan is to check cylinder #7 and #8 first then the rest depending. If all checks out, I'll put the vents on. If not, I'll be pulling the core support and removing the engine.

[s14brent]

aw man....sucks to hear that! what are you doing for crank case ventilation currently? I know most local drift dudes swear by the chasebays dual catch can system.

[ian e30 318is]

Welp the shake down didn’t go to plan…

First couple laps out at Chuckwalla, huge plume of smoke on deceleration and oil pressure dropped significantly into the 10-15 psi range. Was coming off the track and noticed oil all over the windshield. Pulled in to our spot and started investigation. Initially thought I had a loose fitting but found the dipstick popped out. Tightened everything and went back out for another round.

Two laps in and the same issue. Immediately knew the issue was crankcase pressure…but why from the bottom end through the pan…unless it’s pressure past the rings. That would explain the heavy positive crankcase pressure and the oil on deceleration. Decided to park the car for the rest of the day, take a couple rides with others, chat with a few people, then pack up and head home. Super bummed and haven’t touched the car since. Actually, it’s still strapped in the trailer.

Next step is to compression check the engine. Everyone I’ve talked to said they would put money on a cylinder #7 rings or ring land failure. So I’ll likely need to drain fluids and pull the engine. The LS life has been rough. If the bottom end is toast, I may need to look into an LS3 bottom end. If anyone has a hookup let need know haha.

Anyways, here’s a picture…

[ian e30 318is]

Damn Ian, your car was already a great package - talk about cranking it to eleven.

Great work as always.

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I appreciate it! I needed a new project haha.

First track shakedown at Chuckwalla this Friday. Hoping it all stays together. Had a local friend's shop perform a fluid bleed and a nut/bolt check, so I think we are ready to rock.

[DEV0 E30]

Damn Ian, your car was already a great package - talk about cranking it to eleven.

Great work as always.

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[ian e30 318is]

I went with the Condor solid steering shaft system… next is finalizing engine harness and driveshaft options as my Sikky ones are initially built for an LS3 and T56 Magnum


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The Condor steering shaft seems like a high quality piece. I would just make sure to dimple the shaft for the allen studs as well as use loctite. I would definitely recommend the Holley Terminator ECU and wiring harness. Wiring Specialties sells LS swap harnesses as well that can be customized. The custom driveshaft I had made from Oceanside Driveline was also a high quality piece. I would use a local driveshaft shop to make a custom one with a T56 mating yoke and removable front u-joint with u-bolts. You'll just need to measure from the center of the front yoke to the rear diff mating surface for a total length.

Update for the e30. I just installed the Setrab 19-row cooler with Garagistic mounts. I used 100mm studs to offset the oil cooler down in order to orient the cooler properly with fittings at the top. Crimped -10AN hoses are currently in production and should be finished early next week. I'm still trying to figure out how to route the -10AN hose to the Accusump in the trunk. I may need to route the lines to the Accusump through the interior of the car.

[steel330i]

Awesome! Stoked that it's motivating to others and happy to share/answer questions. Sikky definitely has a well put together kit and options, but were just a little expensive in my opinion. I had to scrap a few of their parts due to fitting and custom length issues.

You will definitely need a solid steering shaft. Mine barely clears the headers and required some slight machining/header modification.

Power steering I ended up installing a Volvo power steering pump (PN 36050678) in the trunk and wiring this past weekend. I purchased a Brewington Wiring Systems (BWS) speed controller setup with speed, power, and ground wires. I wired a 12V source to a switch on the dash blank panel as a signal wire then to the pump. The pump power was wired to the battery/ground with 6AWG wires and an 80 amp fuse (probably overkill). The lines are custom -6AN lines (high pressure/return) that will be routed through the bottom of the trunk, over the rear subframe, down the driver's side frame rail, and past the heaters with heat shielding. The fitting adapter from the pump high pressure to -6AN line is Fragola PN 491963 and the -6AN banjo adapters at the rack are high pressure side Fragola M14x1.5 (PN 980659) and return side Fragola M16x1.5 (PN 980664). Hoping to finish the routing this week/weekend.

Also, you are correct about fuel vs. oil (typo on my end and fixed). The Accusump will be tackled after some driving during the next oil change. I need to figure out how to install the T-fitting and Improved Racing -10AN check valve with very limited space in the front of the car. I'll be routing a -10AN line from the rear of the car to the front.

Clutch and flywheel were an LS7 stock setup from Tick Performance (https://www.tickperformance.com/gm-l...-applications/)

I went with the Condor solid steering shaft system… next is finalizing engine harness and driveshaft options as my Sikky ones are initially built for an LS3 and T56 Magnum


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[ian e30 318is]

Progress!
Why did you have rear toe out? Usually you want to shoot for 1/8 in or so.

I always wondered if you could sneak a vette style intake into the kidneys on one of these...

Yes progress!! Getting closer everyday. The 4” intake is now installed.



The guy who did the alignment couldn’t access the tabs for rear toe or else he would have adjusted it. I have a friend who said he can do it without dropping the rear subframe. Ideally I would like zero toe or 1/8” toe in. You are correct.

[moatilliatta]

Progress!
Why did you have rear toe out? Usually you want to shoot for 1/8 in or so.

I always wondered if you could sneak a vette style intake into the kidneys on one of these...

[ian e30 318is]

Another thread update...

1. Decided to keep ABS on the car from several people's recommendations. Wired in an ABS specific light I purchased from AlpineTech which worked great! Wired in series with the existing ABS cluster light.
2. I was having issues with fuel pressure so decided to order and install an Aeromotive fuel filter/regulator combo. Mounted on the existing air filter bracket which worked out pretty well. Now fuel pressure is steady at 60 psi.
3. I also blew out the check valve on the DW300 pump so was having trouble with start-up and maintaining pressure. Ended up ordering and installing a new TRE255 pump and the fuel system is working flawlessly for now.
4. Was absolutely hating the adjustability of the Ireland Engineering adjustable spring perches, so purchased and installed some new GC spring perches (unfortunately along with springs and other items I didn't need). At least I have some extra parts now.
5. The initial tune was absolutely horrendous (won't mention the tuner). The LS was tuned again on a load dyno. Power was decent but seemed a little low, so we decided to pull the 3.5" intake tube. The LS made an additional 15-20WHP with the throttle body only/intake removed. So naturally I immediately started working on a 4" intake with a larger filter for the engine. The aluminum elbow required some massaging, but fits well now. Off to powdercoat and waiting on a filter from AFE.

Pictures of the new fuel pressure regulator, the engine as currently sits, and "trying" to fit the 4" intake tube (hitting the idler pulley).







The goal is to book a track day at Buttonwillow on January 6 for a shake down. I have a few items to address prior to January in a semi-rush
1. Pipe in Accusump with -10AN line from the trunk to the new oil cooler - A Setrab 19-row cooler is being installed along with an Improved Racing sandwich plate that will be installed
2. Change break in oil to a high zinc, 50 weight oil for track use
3. Flush coolant and add distilled water with wetter
4. Adjust rear toe to neutral instead of toe out
5. Overall nut and bolt check for sanity sake

[ian e30 318is]

Whens the first shakedown track day?

Hoping by the end of this year! I need to get out asap.

[2mAn]

Whens the first shakedown track day?

[ian e30 318is]

In the middle of my E30/LS1 build now as well … this is beyond motivating!! Thanks for sharing your experience and the parts used. I’m almost 100% Sikky kitted but didn’t pull the trigger yet on the Condor steering shaft since my oem bits broke during disassembly and also wasn’t sure on power steering setup (looking at Chase Bays).

Did you mean to be concerned about oil (vice fuel) pressure with the Accusump kit in the trunk? Also which clutch /flywheel combo are you running?

All the best,

Travis

Awesome! Stoked that it's motivating to others and happy to share/answer questions. Sikky definitely has a well put together kit and options, but were just a little expensive in my opinion. I had to scrap a few of their parts due to fitting and custom length issues.

You will definitely need a solid steering shaft. Mine barely clears the headers and required some slight machining/header modification.

Power steering I ended up installing a Volvo power steering pump (PN 36050678) in the trunk and wiring this past weekend. I purchased a Brewington Wiring Systems (BWS) speed controller setup with speed, power, and ground wires. I wired a 12V source to a switch on the dash blank panel as a signal wire then to the pump. The pump power was wired to the battery/ground with 6AWG wires and an 80 amp fuse (probably overkill). The lines are custom -6AN lines (high pressure/return) that will be routed through the bottom of the trunk, over the rear subframe, down the driver's side frame rail, and past the heaters with heat shielding. The fitting adapter from the pump high pressure to -6AN line is Fragola PN 491963 and the -6AN banjo adapters at the rack are high pressure side Fragola M14x1.5 (PN 980659) and return side Fragola M16x1.5 (PN 980664). Hoping to finish the routing this week/weekend.

Also, you are correct about fuel vs. oil (typo on my end and fixed). The Accusump will be tackled after some driving during the next oil change. I need to figure out how to install the T-fitting and Improved Racing -10AN check valve with very limited space in the front of the car. I'll be routing a -10AN line from the rear of the car to the front.

Clutch and flywheel were an LS7 stock setup from Tick Performance (https://www.tickperformance.com/gm-l...-applications/)

[steel330i]

In the middle of my E30/LS1 build now as well … this is beyond motivating!! Thanks for sharing your experience and the parts used. I’m almost 100% Sikky kitted but didn’t pull the trigger yet on the Condor steering shaft since my oem bits broke during disassembly and also wasn’t sure on power steering setup (looking at Chase Bays).

Did you mean to be concerned about oil (vice fuel) pressure with the Accusump kit in the trunk? Also which clutch /flywheel combo are you running?

All the best,

Travis