I appreciate it! I needed a new project haha.
First track shakedown at Chuckwalla this Friday. Hoping it all stays together. Had a local friend's shop perform a fluid bleed and a nut/bolt check, so I think we are ready to rock.
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Damn Ian, your car was already a great package - talk about cranking it to eleven.
Great work as always.
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The Condor steering shaft seems like a high quality piece. I would just make sure to dimple the shaft for the allen studs as well as use loctite. I would definitely recommend the Holley Terminator ECU and wiring harness. Wiring Specialties sells LS swap harnesses as well that can be customized. The custom driveshaft I had made from Oceanside Driveline was also a high quality piece. I would use a local driveshaft shop to make a custom one with a T56 mating yoke and removable front u-joint with u-bolts. You'll just need to measure from the center of the front yoke to the rear diff mating surface for a total length.
Update for the e30. I just installed the Setrab 19-row cooler with Garagistic mounts. I used 100mm studs to offset the oil cooler down in order to orient the cooler properly with fittings at the top. Crimped -10AN hoses are currently in production and should be finished early next week. I'm still trying to figure out how to route the -10AN hose to the Accusump in the trunk. I may need to route the lines to the Accusump through the interior of the car.
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Yes progress!! Getting closer everyday. The 4” intake is now installed.
The guy who did the alignment couldn’t access the tabs for rear toe or else he would have adjusted it. I have a friend who said he can do it without dropping the rear subframe. Ideally I would like zero toe or 1/8” toe in. You are correct.Leave a comment:
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Progress!
Why did you have rear toe out? Usually you want to shoot for 1/8 in or so.
I always wondered if you could sneak a vette style intake into the kidneys on one of these...
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Another thread update...
1. Decided to keep ABS on the car from several people's recommendations. Wired in an ABS specific light I purchased from AlpineTech which worked great! Wired in series with the existing ABS cluster light.
2. I was having issues with fuel pressure so decided to order and install an Aeromotive fuel filter/regulator combo. Mounted on the existing air filter bracket which worked out pretty well. Now fuel pressure is steady at 60 psi.
3. I also blew out the check valve on the DW300 pump so was having trouble with start-up and maintaining pressure. Ended up ordering and installing a new TRE255 pump and the fuel system is working flawlessly for now.
4. Was absolutely hating the adjustability of the Ireland Engineering adjustable spring perches, so purchased and installed some new GC spring perches (unfortunately along with springs and other items I didn't need). At least I have some extra parts now.
5. The initial tune was absolutely horrendous (won't mention the tuner). The LS was tuned again on a load dyno. Power was decent but seemed a little low, so we decided to pull the 3.5" intake tube. The LS made an additional 15-20WHP with the throttle body only/intake removed. So naturally I immediately started working on a 4" intake with a larger filter for the engine. The aluminum elbow required some massaging, but fits well now. Off to powdercoat and waiting on a filter from AFE.
Pictures of the new fuel pressure regulator, the engine as currently sits, and "trying" to fit the 4" intake tube (hitting the idler pulley).
The goal is to book a track day at Buttonwillow on January 6 for a shake down. I have a few items to address prior to January in a semi-rush
1. Pipe in Accusump with -10AN line from the trunk to the new oil cooler - A Setrab 19-row cooler is being installed along with an Improved Racing sandwich plate that will be installed
2. Change break in oil to a high zinc, 50 weight oil for track use
3. Flush coolant and add distilled water with wetter
4. Adjust rear toe to neutral instead of toe out
5. Overall nut and bolt check for sanity sakeLeave a comment:
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Awesome! Stoked that it's motivating to others and happy to share/answer questions. Sikky definitely has a well put together kit and options, but were just a little expensive in my opinion. I had to scrap a few of their parts due to fitting and custom length issues.
You will definitely need a solid steering shaft. Mine barely clears the headers and required some slight machining/header modification.
Power steering I ended up installing a Volvo power steering pump (PN 36050678) in the trunk and wiring this past weekend. I purchased a Brewington Wiring Systems (BWS) speed controller setup with speed, power, and ground wires. I wired a 12V source to a switch on the dash blank panel as a signal wire then to the pump. The pump power was wired to the battery/ground with 6AWG wires and an 80 amp fuse (probably overkill). The lines are custom -6AN lines (high pressure/return) that will be routed through the bottom of the trunk, over the rear subframe, down the driver's side frame rail, and past the heaters with heat shielding. The fitting adapter from the pump high pressure to -6AN line is Fragola PN 491963 and the -6AN banjo adapters at the rack are high pressure side Fragola M14x1.5 (PN 980659) and return side Fragola M16x1.5 (PN 980664). Hoping to finish the routing this week/weekend.
Also, you are correct about fuel vs. oil (typo on my end and fixed). The Accusump will be tackled after some driving during the next oil change. I need to figure out how to install the T-fitting and Improved Racing -10AN check valve with very limited space in the front of the car. I'll be routing a -10AN line from the rear of the car to the front.
Clutch and flywheel were an LS7 stock setup from Tick Performance (https://www.tickperformance.com/gm-l...-applications/)Leave a comment:
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In the middle of my E30/LS1 build now as well … this is beyond motivating!! Thanks for sharing your experience and the parts used. I’m almost 100% Sikky kitted but didn’t pull the trigger yet on the Condor steering shaft since my oem bits broke during disassembly and also wasn’t sure on power steering setup (looking at Chase Bays).
Did you mean to be concerned about oil (vice fuel) pressure with the Accusump kit in the trunk? Also which clutch /flywheel combo are you running?
All the best,
TravisLeave a comment:
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Well the vent and return fuel lines were 100% connected to the wrong hard lines which explains the high pressure. Had to pull out the fluid reservoirs, the master cylinders, and the top strut bar to be able to reach the lines. Finished late Sunday so wasn't able to start the car to 100% confirm, but primed the fuel pump and pressure was lower which is a good start. Looking from the top of the engine bay, the top line is return, the middle is supply, and the bottom line which is also the smallest is vent to the tank.
I was able to make some relief cuts in the hood this weekend as well to fit the intake piping and the brake reservoirs. Honestly, the hood fit and looked better than I expected. I thought I would need to cut holes through the entire hood which thankfully didn't need to happen.
Here's the current state of the e30...
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E30 is aligned and street tuned! And it’s fast! The fuel pressure was around 80psi which is definitely high. I need to look to see if I accidentally swapped the vent and return fuel lines.
Have a few more items to tackle before a run up to the mountains. Also, still need to hook up the Accusump and Volvo power steering setup but it’s close!Leave a comment:
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Woah! Sick looking build. Following. As one who still enjoys the boost of the s/m5x world, I have said if she ever totally kicks the bucket, I'll venture to the LS arena.Leave a comment:
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