loving this thread great work shes gunna look awesome.. are you keeping the wheels gold?
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1991 318is Restoration Project...Now with some Air!
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Another update,
Rear Aftermarket Valence Mounting,
So I used the same brackets that I used for the front mtech valence, but this time I only flattened two of the brackets instead of all four.
Top View
Flattened one,
Fiberglassed,
This one is the middle two brackets, secured from underneath the car,
The side one pops out in the trunk,
Installing sides,
Side skirts are just mounted with some bolts and nuts,
Done for the night, finally everything is actually mounted and not just held in with clamps.
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Originally posted by johnwoo View Postawesome thread do you have close ups of the sides on the front between the bumper and the valence. i want to see if the valence flairs out and the gap
Originally posted by BeemerBuyer View Postwow
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Originally posted by Simon S View PostHa !
Hope that worked out for you - I'm loving how subtle it is..
Shit man - been a while since I checked your thread. You've been busy !!
Holy crap, that's a lot of work. Props.
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Originally posted by johnwoo View Postawesome thread do you have close ups of the sides on the front between the bumper and the valence. i want to see if the valence flairs out and the gap
The flair is pretty bad, I'm not sure at this point what I'm gonna do. I might just leave it or try to fix it later with some sort of adjusting nut/bolt on the back.
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Small update,
I've always wanted one of those illuminated shift knobs but didn't want to fork out the $100 or so for one. So the plan was to make one, I think I saw a write up for one as well some where. But here's how i did mine.
Here's the knob in question, I was quite nervous cause this was a brand new knob that I ordered from BimmerBum.
Popped the top off with my fingernails, pretty much a weak adhesive,
Removed the adhesive pad from the cap,
Here's what I used to scratch out the letters/numbers,
DO NOT SCRATCH OUT THE M like I did, the reason is that the led will be directly below the ///M, and it will show up as a hot spot. The paint on the cap is very thin, enough for the light to shine through.
Next was to put a hold through the knob for the wiring, I used a drill for this,
I taped the whole knob off, just to be safe.
Next you need to carve out the space in the knob, ideally you want this to be the width to be the distance from the R to the 5, and the height to be from the top of the R, 1, 3, 5 and to the bottom of 2 and 4.
The tool that I used was a dremel,
Next up the led, I ordered like a 100 for 4 bucks (although the seller only sent 50),
I had some old resisters lying around so I gave it a shot,
Heat shrunk,
Now this step is important if you want to avoid any hot spots,
I used the dremel and just flattened the top of the led,
I forgot to take a pic of the led in the knob, but try to keep the led as far away from the top, so the lower it is in the knob the better at avoiding hot spots.
I also ended up painting a very thin layer over the M,
End result,
I have this out of the car for now, as the cars going to paint. The plan is to wire it to the light associated with the cigarette lighter. Hope this helps someone.Last edited by Tuee; 06-01-2011, 06:50 PM.
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