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It's going to be awesome. It's been along time coming for me to take this thing to a show. I need to find a photographer to do some better shots when these BBS's are on. Can't wait!
Keep in mind if you buy the pedal box bracket from BMWfab it will knock off about $300 from my total. He wasn't making them at the time when I bought my stuff so I had to wing it. The box with pedals is $225, masters are $75 each X3 (they include the reservoirs and brackets) and the fittings all in all ran about $60.
I will definitely be there in August!!
What part number was the pedal assembly on summit? This version on jegs says it comes with the masters for the same price:
Or am I a tard and reading it wrong? Found at the bottom of overview: " These Easy Kits are designed by the experts at JEGS to ensure quick and easy installation. Includes Pedal and Master Cylinder(s)."
Or am I a tard and reading it wrong? Found at the bottom of overview: " These Easy Kits are designed by the experts at JEGS to ensure quick and easy installation. Includes Pedal and Master Cylinder(s)."
Thats the one. It does not include master cylinders though.
Or am I a tard and reading it wrong? Found at the bottom of overview: " These Easy Kits are designed by the experts at JEGS to ensure quick and easy installation. Includes Pedal and Master Cylinder(s)."
I'd press them to sell you this "kit" at that price. They wrote the copy and have it on their website wrong, it is just the pedal assy. Tell them you want what they are advertising, the pedal assembly and the master cylinders for the price on the page...
I'd press them to sell you this "kit" at that price. They wrote the copy and have it on their website wrong, it is just the pedal assy. Tell them you want what they are advertising, the pedal assembly and the master cylinders for the price on the page...
Garey
Wow I didn't read the overview section. Sure enough it says they are included. Call jegs and see if they'll sell their "kit" for that price like Garey said!
Wow I didn't read the overview section. Sure enough it says they are included. Call jegs and see if they'll sell their "kit" for that price like Garey said!
We should get a bunch of people together to do that so they don't change the price if they sell it as advertised lol.
If you have time, could you list all the fittings you used to make this work? I'm really interested in doing this.
Well Jgood's terrible luck is rubbing off on me. Here's some issues I'm having with the car after about 120 miles:
Alternator is weak. I noticed this when I was driving the 740il the engine was pulled from so I saw this coming. The headlights dim at idle and the battery light flickers.
The infamous 420G shifting problems have come and gone. The trans refuses to be put into any gear at random. I have the lock shaft on order so I'm going to put that in at the end of the week and see what happens.
Ran out of gas. I forgot my gas gauge never reads fully empty. My own stupidity!
Besides that everything is great. Did a little photo shoot I will post when I get a chance.
Does the float work, add the "low fuel" light and make sure it works :)
How is the power band, have you gotten a chance to get on it?
Throttle response? Traction? etc etc details :)
The car runs awesome. With the 3.25 rear it almost hits 60 in second. Haven't really pegged true rev limit yet. If you drop the clutch it will spin through the top of first and second with ease. The torque band is very broad. It pulls up inclines in 6th at low RPM's without breaking a sweat. Acceleration from a stand still through 3rd (closed course naturally) is pretty wild.
The fuel gauge functions just not when its ALMOST empty. I remembered this when it started to sputter yesterday.... then it died. Luckily I wasn't too far from home.
Lock pin wasn't broken like I originally thought but the spring that holds tension on it was. The only possible explanation for the shifter intermittently not going into any gear was since there wasn't enough spring tension on the lock pin it was able to rotate in its orafice causing the relief cuts in the selector shaft to jam on the sides of the lock pin and not "roll" on the bushing like it is designed to do. I took it for a drive and the shift actuation is much for positive. Doesn't feel like I'm crunching it into gear any longer. It has a nice subtle "clunk" when going into gear. Everyone pray to baby jesus or allah or whatever that this fixes it and I don't have to pull this trans out!! What you can't see in the picture is the spiral pattern on the lock pin from it rotating in its orafice and the marks left on the end of it from the selector shaft mashing into it. I also don't usually wear pink nail polish, that's my girlfriends finger nail.
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