Eta-to-M50: Build thread

[pantelones]

If not, it seems like it's a very dense foam or rubber, can I just make a new one?

I just replaced #13 since I am using the AKG DSSR and I had the forethought to order a new #19. When I was putting it in I thought about using a stiff RC car spring and turning down a washer for the pin side. It wont wear or disintegrate like the foam piece, and it will stay firm to help eliminate play. If you got time to waste it might be a worth while project.

[Jand3rson]

#13 is what I'm replacing, I've already replaced the rubber shift carrier bushing with the AKG Delrin bushing, too.

So as was my suspicion, #13 didn't come with a new #19 in it, and I don't have time to order one. The one that was inside my current shift knuckle is still there, and still in one piece, just a little squashed. Can I still use the same one if I put a round piece of something down in there (like a little disc of plastif or something) and flip it over to the side that isn't squashed? I don't know what the thickness of the little piece is supposed to be, but if I can stick something down in there and put the old one in on top of it, shouldn't it theoretically be fine?

If not, it seems like it's a very dense foam or rubber, can I just make a new one?

I pulled it out of the old shift knuckle about 20 minutes ago, and it was soaked in old gear oil, so I've been squishing it in a paper towel to soak up all the oil that it was saturated with, and it's already popped back up to thicker than it was when I pulled it out. Anyone have any ideas?

[Jand3rson]

By the way, I use your thread all the time for info while I get closer to finishing my swap.

Awesome, glad to be of help! Let me know if you have questions on anything that isn't covered.

[hfabricius]

Makes sense. If I had the resources, I would like to fab up my own parts but being a poor college student, its hard to even buy parts that are already made.

By the way, I use your thread all the time for info while I get closer to finishing my swap.

[Jand3rson]

We're making a custom one. I have the resources to have one made, so it will be much cheaper than buying one new, and I like to fab/help fab my own parts when I can.

[hfabricius]

Andrew and I are going to be making a DSSR with the 10 degree angle built in ourselves. Keep posted for updates on that.

Are you making a custom one, or modifying a normal UUC DSSR? They make a DSSR with the 10 degrees fabbed in now, I will be picking when up for my swap.

[Jand3rson]

Today the Postman and FedEx man bringeth me gifts! USPS brought my new rear main, new rear main housing gasket, and new oil pan gasket. FedEx brought me a nifty little thing from SKF called a Speedi-Sleeve that I'll be using on the crankshaft seal surface, check it out here:

http://www.vsm.skf.com/en-US/HeavyDuty/KitsAndTools/SpeediSleeve.aspx

No more leaks from this rear main... :D

[Jand3rson]

Andrew and I are going to be making a DSSR with the 10 degree angle built in ourselves. Keep posted for updates on that.

My Flowmaster Y-pipe came today, dual 2" in/single 2.5" out, $41 from Jegs w/ free shipping.

[shiboujin]

Because race car son. Because race car.

[nando]

Why replace #13? nothing inside of it moves. as long as the rod fits snuggly inside (never seen it not), it shouldn't cause slop. #19 behind it is known to cause slop. It's just a sponge...


The shift carrier, if attached to the trans has to move. Yes. I agree. But if you solid mount the carrier to the chassis, the only movement is in the shift rod itself. Which is designed to move.

#13 definitely wears, especially with the single-shear selector rod. basically the plastic bushing inside ovals out because it's being loaded from one side. It's a cheap plastic bearing that has no lubrication, it wears because of the friction of the selector rod rubbing inside it (and side loading due to the poor single shear design).

the carrier is solid mounted to the trans (if you use delrin bushings). If you also solid mount the carrier to the chassis, but don't solid mount both the engine and trans, the trans will move but the shifter carrier will not. If your engine/trans are solid mounted as well, then it's not a problem. notice AKG says "race only".

if you're using rubber mounts, you're kidding yourself if you don't think that movement isn't being translated somewhere else. more than likely it's just going to wear your linkage out faster. if that matters to you or not, I don't know nor do I care.

Solid mounting the carrier to both the car *and* chassis won't make a lick of difference for shifter tightness, anyway, unless you can move the entire engine/trans with your shift lever..

[Mr.SWISS]

# 13 gets replaced because it does wear, there is a plastic bushing were the shift selector shaft goes through it.

# 19 doesnt remove play but makes it feel tighter and not rattle, the last time i replaced #13 it came with a new #19 in it already.



janderson, also replace #17. That pin wears as well.


..

I just used a peice of fuel line cut to fit and it squared it right up. Ask Jordan, he's does the same thing.

(I do have a DSSR and turner shifter, ZF320)

[LJ851]

Why replace #13? nothing inside of it moves. as long as the rod fits snuggly inside (never seen it not), it shouldn't cause slop. #19 behind it is known to cause slop. It's just a sponge...

# 13 gets replaced because it does wear, there is a plastic bushing were the shift selector shaft goes through it.

# 19 doesnt remove play but makes it feel tighter and not rattle, the last time i replaced #13 it came with a new #19 in it already.



janderson, also replace #17. That pin wears as well.


..

[shiboujin]

The shift carrier (if that's what your referring to as the part the lever ball sits in) is new, the knuckle that it attaches to is what I'm replacing.



#13 is what I'm replacing, I've already replaced the rubber shift carrier bushing with the AKG Delrin bushing, too.

So in regards to #8, what did you do as far as solidly mounting that to the chassis?

Why replace #13? nothing inside of it moves. as long as the rod fits snuggly inside (never seen it not), it shouldn't cause slop. #19 behind it is known to cause slop. It's just a sponge...

I didn't mess with #8. I eliminated it and #1. Basically only the shift rod comes off the trans. nothing else touches the trans. I got an aftermarket shifter and just solid mounted that to a plate then bolted it to the drive tunnel where the shifter hole is.

you don't want to solidly mount that, unless your engine and trans are also solid mounts - if you have a DSSR, delrin carrier bushings, and replace #13, it shouldn't be sloppy at all. the carrier will move with the trans, so if you solid mount the rear of it, there won't be anywhere for the carrier to move when the trans/engine moves. you'll just end up wearing out the linkage faster because that movement has gotta go somewhere.

The shift carrier, if attached to the trans has to move. Yes. I agree. But if you solid mount the carrier to the chassis, the only movement is in the shift rod itself. Which is designed to move.

When I did this mod, many people told me I'd break things or that I'd miss shifts. I still use rubber mounts, do track days, and make over 380whp. Never missed a shift.

Even AKG sells one: http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog...e30%20Shifters

[MR 325]

It's called a selector rod joint FYI. :)

[Jand3rson]

I was more just curious than anything. I don't have a DSSR, but I think it should still be pretty tight when I get the new knuckle in, and replace all of the old washers.