Eta-to-M50: Build thread

[shiboujin]

Oil filter is a 13 mil bolt and cap combo on the top of the engine. You don't have to get underneath or reach around your headers. The intake mani is held on by 8 bolts easily accessible from the top side of the intake mani. Exposing everything underneath for easy access. Ever tried to take an M20 intake mani off? *shudders*

[nando]

it's all true. I never crawl under my car if I can help it, though. flipped oil filter housing FTW. :)

[Jand3rson]

I love how easy the M50 is to work on in an E30 bay. It makes things 10x easier than on an M20.

Demand pix!

Also, what specifically are you changing on the shift knuckle? I find the most slop comes from the piece that mounts to the chassis behind the shifter. Solid mounting my shifter to the chassis fixed almost all of my problems.

I'm actually replacing the shift knuckle itself, it's never been replaced, and I totally spaced replacing it while it was out. The chassis mount is also brand new, I did replace that!

[shiboujin]

knuckle as in the wobble thing that attaches to the trans? or the thing the main lever ball sits in? The tans part doesn't need to be replaced, just the padding behind it.

[davem]

Oil filter is a 13 mil bolt and cap combo on the top of the engine. You don't have to get underneath or reach around your headers. The intake mani is held on by 8 bolts easily accessible from the top side of the intake mani. Exposing everything underneath for easy access. Ever tried to take an M20 intake mani off? *shudders*

lol ya I've done an m20 intake mani, pita, I don't mind the oil filter location too much tho haha

[Jand3rson]

knuckle as in the wobble thing that attaches to the trans? or the thing the main lever ball sits in? The tans part doesn't need to be replaced, just the padding behind it.

The shift carrier (if that's what your referring to as the part the lever ball sits in) is new, the knuckle that it attaches to is what I'm replacing.



#13 is what I'm replacing, I've already replaced the rubber shift carrier bushing with the AKG Delrin bushing, too.

So in regards to #8, what did you do as far as solidly mounting that to the chassis?

[nando]

you don't want to solidly mount that, unless your engine and trans are also solid mounts - if you have a DSSR, delrin carrier bushings, and replace #13, it shouldn't be sloppy at all. the carrier will move with the trans, so if you solid mount the rear of it, there won't be anywhere for the carrier to move when the trans/engine moves. you'll just end up wearing out the linkage faster because that movement has gotta go somewhere.

[Jand3rson]

I was more just curious than anything. I don't have a DSSR, but I think it should still be pretty tight when I get the new knuckle in, and replace all of the old washers.

[MR 325]

It's called a selector rod joint FYI. :)

[shiboujin]

The shift carrier (if that's what your referring to as the part the lever ball sits in) is new, the knuckle that it attaches to is what I'm replacing.



#13 is what I'm replacing, I've already replaced the rubber shift carrier bushing with the AKG Delrin bushing, too.

So in regards to #8, what did you do as far as solidly mounting that to the chassis?

Why replace #13? nothing inside of it moves. as long as the rod fits snuggly inside (never seen it not), it shouldn't cause slop. #19 behind it is known to cause slop. It's just a sponge...

I didn't mess with #8. I eliminated it and #1. Basically only the shift rod comes off the trans. nothing else touches the trans. I got an aftermarket shifter and just solid mounted that to a plate then bolted it to the drive tunnel where the shifter hole is.

you don't want to solidly mount that, unless your engine and trans are also solid mounts - if you have a DSSR, delrin carrier bushings, and replace #13, it shouldn't be sloppy at all. the carrier will move with the trans, so if you solid mount the rear of it, there won't be anywhere for the carrier to move when the trans/engine moves. you'll just end up wearing out the linkage faster because that movement has gotta go somewhere.

The shift carrier, if attached to the trans has to move. Yes. I agree. But if you solid mount the carrier to the chassis, the only movement is in the shift rod itself. Which is designed to move.

When I did this mod, many people told me I'd break things or that I'd miss shifts. I still use rubber mounts, do track days, and make over 380whp. Never missed a shift.

Even AKG sells one: http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog...e30%20Shifters

[LJ851]

Why replace #13? nothing inside of it moves. as long as the rod fits snuggly inside (never seen it not), it shouldn't cause slop. #19 behind it is known to cause slop. It's just a sponge...

# 13 gets replaced because it does wear, there is a plastic bushing were the shift selector shaft goes through it.

# 19 doesnt remove play but makes it feel tighter and not rattle, the last time i replaced #13 it came with a new #19 in it already.



janderson, also replace #17. That pin wears as well.


..

[Mr.SWISS]

# 13 gets replaced because it does wear, there is a plastic bushing were the shift selector shaft goes through it.

# 19 doesnt remove play but makes it feel tighter and not rattle, the last time i replaced #13 it came with a new #19 in it already.



janderson, also replace #17. That pin wears as well.


..

I just used a peice of fuel line cut to fit and it squared it right up. Ask Jordan, he's does the same thing.

(I do have a DSSR and turner shifter, ZF320)

[nando]

Why replace #13? nothing inside of it moves. as long as the rod fits snuggly inside (never seen it not), it shouldn't cause slop. #19 behind it is known to cause slop. It's just a sponge...


The shift carrier, if attached to the trans has to move. Yes. I agree. But if you solid mount the carrier to the chassis, the only movement is in the shift rod itself. Which is designed to move.

#13 definitely wears, especially with the single-shear selector rod. basically the plastic bushing inside ovals out because it's being loaded from one side. It's a cheap plastic bearing that has no lubrication, it wears because of the friction of the selector rod rubbing inside it (and side loading due to the poor single shear design).

the carrier is solid mounted to the trans (if you use delrin bushings). If you also solid mount the carrier to the chassis, but don't solid mount both the engine and trans, the trans will move but the shifter carrier will not. If your engine/trans are solid mounted as well, then it's not a problem. notice AKG says "race only".

if you're using rubber mounts, you're kidding yourself if you don't think that movement isn't being translated somewhere else. more than likely it's just going to wear your linkage out faster. if that matters to you or not, I don't know nor do I care.

Solid mounting the carrier to both the car *and* chassis won't make a lick of difference for shifter tightness, anyway, unless you can move the entire engine/trans with your shift lever..

[shiboujin]

Because race car son. Because race car.

[Jand3rson]

Andrew and I are going to be making a DSSR with the 10 degree angle built in ourselves. Keep posted for updates on that.

My Flowmaster Y-pipe came today, dual 2" in/single 2.5" out, $41 from Jegs w/ free shipping.