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Malik's 87 325is build (DAILY DRIFT E30)

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  • ROLLingKING
    replied
    Originally posted by TimKninja View Post
    Back when the M20 was in my car, I pulled it out and rebuilt it, which meant the exhaust got new hardware (locknuts) . I would dissconnect the exhaust at the manifolds and then dropped it all down in one peice. I had one holder on the subframe and the muffler strap. Last time I took it off it took 10 minutes and the whole thing was off. I strongly suggest new hardware for the exhaust . The old bolts where a bitch to get off, required a set of Harbor Freight bolt outs. Many extentions, a hammer.

    You need a 30mm socket to get that bolt off, but you need to ether shave down a normal one or buy the BMW thin walled 30mm socket. You also need to bend three tabs on the washer behind it, and then use some form of 22mm wrench to put on the front crank to stop it from turning. Then a breaker bar and a shitload of torque will break the nut free. I recommend changing the output shaft seal while your in there. You might loose some fluid from the tranny too. Once you take the nut off the output flange should come off relatively easily. Maybe with some prying . Once you get the output flange off the sheid should come with it. The sheid is pressed on, you just need to separate it.

    Or you might have the later style which I beleave once you get the guibo off , you just rotate it alittle and it'll come off without removing the output flange.
    Yea i have an early model, I didnt even get the guibo fully out..just got to the nut so im still not even sure whats up with it. Its still there covering the guibo tho. Ill let someone worry about it when i do mu clutch.haha or by that time ill have a different exhaust set up and will just be able to drup the CSB lower and pull the driveshaft out..u got any good M20 parts left tho!?lol

    Leave a comment:


  • ROLLingKING
    replied
    Cross-brace fix take 2...not being dumb this time

    So with 3 washers @ the steering rack the bolt reached the top of the steering rack, but just went about 1/3 through the nut...a guy selling race skid cross-braces in the for sale section said put washers at the steering rack. With 3 washers I didnt feel confident with the bolt just barely reaching the nut.

    So i put 2 washers in the rack and the bolt almost reaches all the way through the nut..then for safe measure i put 2 washers in the lollipop bolt holes and lowered the car..but the sway STILL RUBS!
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    Anyone know whats goin on?? ill put up pics of the sway bar up in a minute but i mean, I dont think its hooked up wrong.
    Last edited by ROLLingKING; 09-26-2011, 09:17 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • TimKninja
    replied
    Back when the M20 was in my car, I pulled it out and rebuilt it, which meant the exhaust got new hardware (locknuts) . I would dissconnect the exhaust at the manifolds and then dropped it all down in one peice. I had one holder on the subframe and the muffler strap. Last time I took it off it took 10 minutes and the whole thing was off. I strongly suggest new hardware for the exhaust . The old bolts where a bitch to get off, required a set of Harbor Freight bolt outs. Many extentions, a hammer.

    You need a 30mm socket to get that bolt off, but you need to ether shave down a normal one or buy the BMW thin walled 30mm socket. You also need to bend three tabs on the washer behind it, and then use some form of 22mm wrench to put on the front crank to stop it from turning. Then a breaker bar and a shitload of torque will break the nut free. I recommend changing the output shaft seal while your in there. You might loose some fluid from the tranny too. Once you take the nut off the output flange should come off relatively easily. Maybe with some prying . Once you get the output flange off the sheid should come with it. The sheid is pressed on, you just need to separate it.

    Or you might have the later style which I beleave once you get the guibo off , you just rotate it alittle and it'll come off without removing the output flange.

    Leave a comment:


  • ROLLingKING
    replied
    stiilll trying to fix aux fan

    So i got the temp sensor for the aux fan. Its supposed to cut on at 2 different speds I thought. The sensor that came with the car didnt really work. just to recap, cause i think this is posted earlier but:
    1. when i got the car the aux fan wouldnt cut on period..so i tried fising the wiring..nothing
    2. I put in a resistor..then the fan STAYED ON all the time.
    3. now i got a new sensor. i let the car sit on till it started creeping past the 1/2 mark..i got toward the 3/4th and the fan still didnt cut on...WTF

    I did notice on the new plug thing..theres some wiggle room with the plug. Maybe it doesnt fit cause I got the wires from an e36..i cut it from the JY. it should still work though! i even called bavauto before ordering it to make sure it would be the right one.lol
    the part i got is from www.uroparts.com
    and i got pn: 61 31 1 378 073

    *OH and i just tried the other old plugs from an e30 and they kinda have the same wiggle room. so i dont think its the plug i got from the jy..its the sensor..cause it was on low with the last sensor.riight??lol

    **8/27 edit..my friend said the temp sensor should work. i didnt let the car warm up close enough to the 3/4 but its brand new and the proper part number so theres nothing left to fail.lol i just never had it working so i was expecting something else i guess
    Last edited by ROLLingKING; 09-26-2011, 09:16 PM.

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  • ROLLingKING
    replied
    trying to fix front sway & cross-brace issues

    I have the suspension techniques 22mm front sway and the raceskids cross-brace..btw i do love the handling..just not the rubbing
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    I noticed one day lowering the car that my sway bar hits the crossbrace when the car is totally back down. It also explains the metal to metal sound i sometimes get over bumps.
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    Heres how it was installed at the rack. is this wrong?
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    I tried putting some washers up where the steering rack bolts go in. But that made the bolt only reach half way through the nut up top of the rack. I dont really feel confident about that so imma try putting washers at the lollipop's. OH, and it still rubs with the washers anyway...

    Has anyone else had this problem!?
    I dont even understand why im rubbing..this one guy on the for sale thread has a 25mm front sway, cross brace and no rubbing

    Leave a comment:


  • ROLLingKING
    replied
    Originally posted by TimKninja View Post
    Had this sameproblem, wish I saw your thread earlier. I undid three of the bolts that attached the guibo to the Transmission studs, then dropped the CSB, And it was barely enough to fit a wrench behind each of the bolts as I rotated it. Ive since deleted the stupid sheild, makes dropping the Driveshaft a 15 minute job now.
    niiice..that pic u see is as far as i could get the the guibo to pop out without taking the headers out..the resonator and cat were in the way from dropping the csb lower. When u got the guibo out how did u get the shield off?

    Leave a comment:


  • TimKninja
    replied
    Had this sameproblem, wish I saw your thread earlier. I undid three of the bolts that attached the guibo to the Transmission studs, then dropped the CSB, And it was barely enough to fit a wrench behind each of the bolts as I rotated it. Ive since deleted the stupid sheild, makes dropping the Driveshaft a 15 minute job now.

    Leave a comment:


  • ROLLingKING
    replied
    I took my car for the first drive in about 6 days last night, since motor & tranny mounts were put in, and I figured out how to get the guibo bolt that fell out back in, and it had just stopped raining so it was pretty calm out. Now my motor has not been mounted since I got the car in april. Shortly after in about may i noticed the fan was hitting the shroud so i cut the shroud, didnt think much of it. But now i realize that is when it started getting worse.haha But now that its straight and the tranny is straight the car has MORE TOUQUE! i swear it really does. less wasted motor vibrations and a more efficient drivetrain i think makes sense.

    Now that only took me and my friends a day to do. Thanks Chimmy and Drin, I honestly couldnt have done it without u guys. Figuring out how to reach the nuts behind the guibo took me a while. I was too worried that if i touched the nuts to try and take the guibo off of the tranny flange, the bolt in the back, which i already cang reach, would then be just freely spinning. I should have tried it about 4 days ago and woulda fixed the damn thing sooner!

    Anyway, to finally get to the nut holding the driveshaft to the guibo I had to lower my muffler all the way, lower the tranny as much as possible, unbolt CSB so the driveshaft could hang down and then unscrew the bolt behind that, compressing the driveshaft just a little bit, but enough for me to get to the back where the nuts were hidden away. This took me about 5hrs by myself.
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    heres a pic of a bolt that snapped on the muffler bracket when i tried taking it off
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    vice grips on the bolt behind the CSB baaarely fit so I would only get a tiny turn, then have to go back out from underneath the car and take it out of gear, then go back underneath the car and rotate the driveshaft to where the vice grips would lock on, then get back out from under the car, put it in gear, crawl back underneath and then get my 1/4 of rotation and start the process over & over & over.lol

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    ^ this is what it looks like when it compresses i guess. i didnt know if the grease buldging out was a sign of it working or what but my boy jeff is very knowledgeable on early models so i just kept going with it.
    Thanks Jeff.

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    What ive learned after all this is I will NEVER touch the damn bolts that attach the driveshaft to the guibo Uness the guibo is already out. The driveshaft is a bitch to get out if the exhaust isnt completely out the way. and to have done that i would have had to taken off my headers..and those bolts probably wont wanna move.
    Last edited by ROLLingKING; 09-24-2011, 10:39 AM.

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  • ROLLingKING
    replied
    so after talking to my boy jeff, the nuts in the pic below, I can take off..The bolts behind these are not meant to turn...according to him!lol so imma go for it. just took the brackets off my exhaust. one of em snapped it was rusted so bad. took off the tranny support bracket and then the stock e30 chassis brace thing in the middle of the car. Gonna undo them bolts now and hope it works

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    Last edited by ROLLingKING; 09-24-2011, 10:35 AM.

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  • ROLLingKING
    replied
    but u cant get rid of the guibo shield without removing the driveshaft..arent there bolts going through it??

    And if there are not bolts going through it..do i just Yank it off..and maybe cut up the sides of the guibo?

    Leave a comment:


  • sweet6e30
    replied
    get rid of the guibo shield, you dont need it, then accessing those bolts will be easy as pie.

    Leave a comment:


  • ROLLingKING
    replied
    after another long day of trying to tighten this bolt, nothing

    my friend got here at around 2pm and left @ 4:45pm. all we tried was to tighten the bolt using various tools, rotating the diff to different positions and trying tools there but still nothing.

    I have the bolt starting to thread through the nut but its impossible to get at it with an open ended wrench. ive been trying for about 4 days now. I am not incompetent, this is just very difficult with my shield in the way. You can ask my friends who have helped and they will tell you its a stupid fucking design

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  • ROLLingKING
    replied
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...=1#post2763901

    Can anyone help me with my guibo problem??

    Leave a comment:


  • ROLLingKING
    replied
    Originally posted by MattAvino View Post
    I think it would have been safer to lift the motor under the AC compressor (steel bracket actually) than under the pan, but it seemed to have been fine. btw how much did those motor mounts set you back?
    only 55. i started the car and it was a very noticeable difference. my friend matt said they wear in and dont vibrate as much as initially tho. but i do like the combo a lot. if u want a stiffer more rumbly ride do it! its not as bad as some other motor mounts ive felt at all. 75D i think is on the softer side of stiff mounts. akg offers 90D's.haha

    it might also be a huge difference cause my motor mounts were trash and the tranny mounts were just holding the motor
    Last edited by ROLLingKING; 09-21-2011, 07:11 PM.

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  • ROLLingKING
    replied
    Contd pics (E21 transmission mount)

    Once the motor was in line and mounted STRAIGHT the transmission bolted up like butter. Yesterday i spent some time drilling out the transmission brace and tranny from 8mm to 10 so that part was easy once i got help with the motor mounts. I lined up the ranny brace bolts to the chassis ones, jacked up the tranny, tightened that up and was then tightened up the motor mounts really good. done with those

    not the best pic but u can see whats goin on
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    Now the guibo bolt...i cant figure out how to tighten it enough. I have the nut on there and used some makeshift tool to tighten it a bit. but i cant torque it. EVERYONE i ask keeps saying use an open ended wrench. with that balancer/shield/p.o.s. guibo cover i cant get to the nut with any wrench. Period. It cant be possible with that damn shield there.

    IF IT IS SOMEONE PLEASE SHARE THE TRICK.lol please tho. for real

    Leave a comment:

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