Andrew's 1989 325i Project

[AbsorbantNut]

No one will ever see/care about those lil chips dude lol
Nice pix

Sad, but true

And why not just do all the prep in the primer? That mainly is what its for, then you just lay a few coats of trim paint w/out sanding, or maybe a light scuffing. And if you wanted to get rid of some of those deep scratches I would've started out with a rougher grit than 600.

[ck_taft325is]

Deeper scratches should be filled if you're that concerned with them OR take it back down to bare ABS.

[5Toes]

Well its coming along. Ive never really "properly" painted something before

[5Toes]

Sanded down some spots today on my lip, just trying to make it nicer.

[AbsorbantNut]

Well its coming along. Ive never really "properly" painted something before

This is why you do research. But I guess at this level, it doesnt really even matter. Glad to hear that at least you're learning

[Matt-B]

Another reason not to buy a volvo lip, there plastic is cheap so it sands really bad, and gouges bad

[5Toes]

It sands fine. My primer cleaned up the scratches fine.

You cant compare $5 lip to $110 one.

[MR 325]

LOL, cheap plastic... Sure.

[5Toes]

So I have not updated this thread with the other pictures, but I will now.

And my camera's card has dissapeared? WTF. Well Ill find it tomorrow.

Next thing, after lip is mounted and body touched up (cut and buff?), is STEREO!!!

My deck has a faulty connector on the back, and its unfixable really. When Luke and I pulled it out, we wiggled it and speakers randomely started coming on.

So Im thinking a new deck, 3 aux. USB ports, Andrew box made with help from Luke, and some 2 way 5.25s up front. I will run it all off a 4 channel amp with two cahnnels bridged for sub.

Then later I upgrade front speakers to components with door pods, and also I add some midrange to the rear deck. At this time I also add a lovely AudioControl 6XS and a 600 watt or so sub amp. Yummy yummy yummy

[Jparkr]

Another reason not to buy a volvo lip, there plastic is cheap so it sands really bad, and gouges bad

Shut the fuck up, yeah a major automotive manufacturer has cheap plastics... Honestly, Do you think before you type ever? Do everyone here a favor and post less.

So I have not updated this thread with the other pictures, but I will now.

And my camera's card has dissapeared? WTF. Well Ill find it tomorrow.

Next thing, after lip is mounted and body touched up (cut and buff?), is STEREO!!!

My deck has a faulty connector on the back, and its unfixable really. When Luke and I pulled it out, we wiggled it and speakers randomely started coming on.

So Im thinking a new deck, 3 aux. USB ports, Andrew box made with help from Luke, and some 2 way 5.25s up front. I will run it all off a 4 channel amp with two cahnnels bridged for sub.

Then later I upgrade front speakers to components with door pods, and also I add some midrange to the rear deck. At this time I also add a lovely AudioControl 6XS and a 600 watt or so sub amp. Yummy yummy yummy

Sounds like a good plan Andrew. But just buy one of Luke's boxes and enjoy it, don't try and change anything.

[5Toes]

Luke said if I do two full days of work in his shop I can build my own box there with his guidance and materials.

Ive built a home subwoofer before, and speaking with Luke he tells me a 10 in a bigger enclosure would sound better. So Mine will be a LITTLE bit different, still vented through ski pass same way though.

[Jparkr]

Luke said if I do two full days of work in his shop I can build my own box there with his guidance and materials.

Ive built a home subwoofer before, and speaking with Luke he tells me a 10 in a bigger enclosure would sound better. So Mine will be a LITTLE bit different, still vented through ski pass same way though.

Oh ok cool. The reason I said don't change it is because when he first moved up to WA, Luke was first building the prototype 10 box in my parents wood shop. It took him SO much time building it on paper and getting all the dimensions, air flow, and air volume and correct length of the port tubes done That we barely got any building done the first day. But when that box was finished it sounded so damn good. That's why his boxes are the best, they are mathematically built to blow you away.

[5Toes]

Luke says himself, his boxes are designed to work with ANY subwoofer.

Mine I will know what I am using, and make the box fit it better. Most 10" subs like a slightly larger box, and Luke's box is 1.5 gross cubic feet. That means actual volume is around 1.4 cubic feet with ports accounted for, etc.

Im thinking more like 1.8 cubic feet, and a tuning SLIGHTLY lower.

[5Toes]

I replaced my throttle cable.

Van Westervelt recommended a few years ago in old friend to use a vise grip to squeeze the black plastic connector on the firewall... worked like a charm.

I had trouble because first I couldnt get that connector out, then I did.

Next I put the new connector in, and tugged on the end in the engine bay to make sure it was secure, we bad idea. The wire's covering pulled out of the metal connector. I wrapped a 3/8" inch wide strip of duct tape around it, then shoved it back in. Then I used half a width of duct tape to wrap around both the metal connector and the sheath, to make certain it would be fine.

Next problem was the little metal pin in that white (mine was yellow ) connector on the actual throttle. I was wrestling it into place and dropped it under the intake manifold. So I grabbed the old one and tried again... same story. Damn it! So I was fucked. I called it a night... that was yesterday. I was gone all day today, but when I got home at 9:30 I went out and grabbed the flashlight and a magnetic reach tool and retrieved BOTH of the pins! Yay!

This time I just got smart and slid the pin in through the bottom, much easier.

Then the white connector that screws on, well I put mine on with the end with the threads on first. Bad mistake, I couldn't get the cable tight enough to get out the slack. So I took it off and reversed it, much better! Haha I actually overtightened it and started the car, it revved up to like 2200rpm. Way too high!

Then I took the car out around the neighborhood with my Mom riding shotgun, hauled ass through this hairpin, M20 auto shifting at 6500rpm FTW! I let off at 5 over the limit though.

Some clif notes for replacing this part:

- Use vise grips on firewall connector
- Dont yank too hard
- Put the white connector on with the skinny end going on first.
__________________

[5Toes]

Sold my 1966 Honda Trail 90 tonight for $130. A month or two ago I sold the muffler to a friend for $50. I paid $30 for the bike and maybe another $120 or so for parts.

So I cant think of anything my car REALLY needs mechanically.

Sure the front strut mounts are shot, but thats not THAT big of a deal. suspension will come much later.

I am thinking a new stereo deck! A $125 brand spankin new Pioneer.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/CD-Receivers/DEH-6300UB