The complete repair, rebuild, repaint, and v8 swap of my early model sedan

[FunfGan]

So the pump actually senses the pressure and determines if if needs to prime or not? Which pump does that, the one down by the rocker in front of the back wheel, or the in-tank pump? It sounds like the one down by the rocker is the one kicking on. Weird that the m50 never had an issue starting, even though it didn't prime half the time.

I'm honestly not sure, I believe its the tank one. Like, I have a Fuel Pressure Regulator on my car(running a carb on the 5.0) and that thing cuts the pressure from ~30 coming from the tank, to ~6 into the carb, so it only runs for about a second or two(if its totally empty) and then it senses and shuts off.


Also, how much power are you putting out? Sorry if I missed it. I'm just getting worried after reading this:

This thing is violent, it pulls so damn hard. 1st is useless, I may be swapping the 3.25 for a 2.93 or 2.79.

Because my engine is putting out 407ft/lbs(rwhp, not crank) and I'm a bit worried about the 3.73...

[Garageaholic]

Yup! you need to apply RTV to the deeper gouges in the valve covers in the rear. I had the same exact problem, but I'm lucky that I discovered it early.

If you can, try not to start it for a day or two after you re-installed your newly RTV'd covers. Let the RTV harden in its position before oil splashes all over the inside of it.

Glad you are getting a lot of your issues addressed. Looks like you're making some amazing progress.

How is the interior reconstruction coming along?

[FunfGan]

Yeah, RTV needs to set for at least 24 hours before its set completely.

[einstein57]

Don't forget to use the factory upper rear spring pads. I like to glue mine in place. If you still have those blown ix HDs laying around i'll buy them off of you.

[JGood]

Yup! you need to apply RTV to the deeper gouges in the valve covers in the rear. I had the same exact problem, but I'm lucky that I discovered it early.

That's the thing... I did that the first time around. I didn't do anything different this time, so I'm assuming I didn't fix anything and it's still going to be leaking. Hopefully it's not a cracked head or valve cover. The engine sat for 2-3 months after using the RTV, so that wasn't the problem.

How is the interior reconstruction coming along?

It's getting there, just need to throw the door panels and glovebox in, and wire up a radio & speakers.

Don't forget to use the factory upper rear spring pads. I like to glue mine in place. If you still have those blown ix HDs laying around i'll buy them off of you.

I'm not using any upper pads, the springs fall into place when I let the car down. Why do you say that, could that be an issue? I returned those iX HD's to the seller and bought some new ones that I've yet to install.

Also, how much power are you putting out? Sorry if I missed it. I'm just getting worried after reading this:

Because my engine is putting out 407ft/lbs(rwhp, not crank) and I'm a bit worried about the 3.73...

m60's are usually around 260whp/wtq. Honestly, once the tires broke in a bit, it started hooking up a lot better. It actually hooks up enough in 1st to make it useable, but a 2.93 would probably make better use of the torque.

I can't tell you if a 3.73 will work for you without knowing the transmission gearing. Can't figure out one without the other.

[einstein57]

You'd have to do some crazy driving to knock them out. But metal one metal is never good for nvh or rust prevention.

[JGood]

Good point. I'll try to find some pads, pretty sure I trashed them a while ago.

I may have to take the adjusters out to keep the ride height as it is then.

[einstein57]

Just remove the bottom nut and have the top nut all the way down. Its about the same thickness as the upper pad. If you end up needing a stiffer spring up front let me know.

[JGood]

Ugh.

New CPS is in, and now the car starts right up every time, but all my other problems still exist. It has a low 450-500 RPM idle, and it's missing and backfiring a lot with less then 1/4 throttle in the lower RPM's. Basically 90% of the driving I do.

I pulled each coil pack while the engine was running, and each one caused a very noticeable misfire when unplugged, so I think all cylinders are firing properly.

CPS = 550 ohms.
ICV = 12, 12, 23 ohms.
TPS = 3.8k ohms between 1 & 3, variable 1.2k to 3.8k ohms between 1 and 2.
IAT = 2.2k @ 80 degrees.

Now for the questionable ones:

Coolant temp sensor: .220k ohms @ ~180 degrees. Spec is .270-.400k ohms at 176 degrees. I can't imagine that would cause as much of a driveability problem as I'm seeing?
Cam sensor = 1440k ohms. spec is 1280 +/- 10%. I can't imagine being 30k ohms out of spec would cause the car to run like complete ass.


All of this bullshit it not worth the extra power. I spent so much time and money only to have ridiculous problems nobody else has. Every single one of my oil cooler AN lines are leaking. My oil filter housing is leaking (I'm on my third one). My valve cover is leaking. My brand new power steering lines are leaking. My exhaust is leaking. There are multiple clunks in the brand new suspension. The engine doesn't idle, it backfires, and misses. This thing is in worse shape then when I tore it apart. Frustrated doesn't even begin to describe how I feel. I'm a day or two away from canceling the insurance on it and leaving it sit until next year.

[LJ851]

Ugh.

New CPS is in, and now the car starts right up every time, but all my other problems still exist. It has a low 450-500 RPM idle, and it's missing and backfiring a lot with less then 1/4 throttle in the lower RPM's. Basically 90% of the driving I do.

I pulled each coil pack while the engine was running, and each one caused a very noticeable misfire when unplugged, so I think all cylinders are firing properly.

CPS = 550 ohms.
ICV = 12, 12, 23 ohms.
TPS = 3.8k ohms between 1 & 3, variable 1.2k to 3.8k ohms between 1 and 2.
IAT = 2.2k @ 80 degrees.

Now for the questionable ones:

Coolant temp sensor: .220k ohms @ ~180 degrees. Spec is .270-.400k ohms at 176 degrees. I can't imagine that would cause as much of a driveability problem as I'm seeing?
Cam sensor = 1440k ohms. spec is 1280 +/- 10%. I can't imagine being 30k ohms out of spec would cause the car to run like complete ass.


All of this bullshit it not worth the extra power. I spent so much time and money only to have ridiculous problems nobody else has. Every single one of my oil cooler AN lines are leaking. My oil filter housing is leaking (I'm on my third one). My valve cover is leaking. My brand new power steering lines are leaking. My exhaust is leaking. There are multiple clunks in the brand new suspension. The engine doesn't idle, it backfires, and misses. This thing is in worse shape then when I tore it apart. Frustrated doesn't even begin to describe how I feel. I'm a day or two away from canceling the insurance on it and leaving it sit until next year.

You really can't expect 4000 things that you have never done before to all turn out correct, magically. You cannot read enough on the internet to make it work. This is a setback for you but only a learning experience. All of your problems are logical and have a logical solution, mostly your inexperience. i truly mean no disrespect because you have given your all and worked your ass off but that is not good enough. Don't give up, if you have to take a break for a few months then do it. You have come too far to throw it all away. This car will be awesome, don't give up.

[MR 325]

Because my engine is putting out 407ft/lbs(rwhp, not crank)

Dream on dude.

[dirty30]

All of this bullshit it not worth the extra power. I spent so much time and money only to have ridiculous problems nobody else has. Every single one of my oil cooler AN lines are leaking. My oil filter housing is leaking (I'm on my third one). My valve cover is leaking. My brand new power steering lines are leaking. My exhaust is leaking. There are multiple clunks in the brand new suspension. The engine doesn't idle, it backfires, and misses. This thing is in worse shape then when I tore it apart. Frustrated doesn't even begin to describe how I feel. I'm a day or two away from canceling the insurance on it and leaving it sit until next year.

Don't give up! I had ONE coil that was bad when we put my brothers built S52 together make us chase our tails for two weeks. Major misdiagnosis on our part but it taught me a lesson that when you literally have an engine, car or whatever torn down to bags of nuts and bolts, multiple custom parts or engines being assembled by someone else etc. ANYTHING can go wrong. ANYTHING could be at fault. Just take your time, maybe take a few days off of working on it and refresh your mind. Thats about the only advice I can give. Is the trans-dapt one leaking now too?? WTF? Are you able to pull any faults from it?

[dnick]

Dream on dude.

hahahahahah

[FunfGan]

Dream on dude.

It was dyno'd this past winter... So yeah.

If you want, I could find the video on youtube. But you can pm me if you'd like, I'm not going to jack somebody's thread.


And very right about the transmission gearing! I thought of that after I posted it.

[JGood]

Still no luck.

I spent about an hour driving the car tonight, and I think I need to redefine my symptoms. I wouldn't call it a missing or hesitation. It's more so, the engine doesn't react well to small throttle inputs below 3k. If I'm idling, and push in the accelerator, and it goes to 2.5k, and i hold my foot dead steady, it will drop, in steps, back to 1k or so, and make some funny rumbling/miniature backfires as it does so. If I'm driving in 5th at 2k, and am just giving it maintenance throttle, not accelerating or decelerating, it will sound like it's missing ever so slightly, and the RPM's will drop if I hold my foot still, almost as if it thinks I'm giving it less throttle, even though I'm not.

First thing I did was check that both grounding straps were installed, one in each valve cover. furthermore, I ran a 14 gauge wire between each coil pack, to ensure 100% grounding. I checked resistance between a coil pack and as far as my multimeter leads would reach, a door latch, and only had like 1 ohm. So my coil packs are 100% grounded. I also checked my engine harness ground. It's solidly grounded. Engine ground is a brand new cable, and the surfaces were stripped.

Test all 8 coil packs, 1k ohms between outer pins.

Tested all 8 plug boots. 6 were OEM, 2 were "made in spain". All of the OEM read 1.7k-1.8k ohms, the 2 others read 2.0k ohms.

Checked that all 8 injectors were firing with a stethoscope (I didn't know how else to check, lol)

I removed the fuel filter just in case, no change.

I swapped the MAF, no change.

I pinched off the vacuum line on the FPR, didn't make a difference. No idea if that's relevant to anything.

I disconnected the coolant temp sensor and took it for a drive... made things worse, actually shut off a few times.

Checked plugs, all of them basically look like this:






The only other things I can think of:

-CPS (test good when cold, 1290, tests 1440-1470 hot, which is slightly high)

-Fuel pressure regulator (I'll do a fuel pressure test first)

-Coolant sensor (I need to pull this out of the car and test it in water with a thermometer to get an accurate reading, but it seems good when using my infrared temp gauge on the sensor)

TPS - This is supposed to be 1.0k-4.0k ohms (approximately, according to Bentley). Is 1.2k at closed throttle good enough? I put in another TPS that reads 1.4k at closed, and it made no difference at all.

DME - I don't have a spare to try. That seems like a last ditch, throw parts at the car effort, but I'll try it if someone thinks it could be an issue.