The complete repair, rebuild, repaint, and v8 swap of my early model sedan

[JGood]

I totally understand that haha. I'm a bit worried now, because when I had the axles replaced(right after buying it), they seem to have replaced them with early model ones...

Well, I had 300k miles on my early model axle. And I beat the living shit out of the car for the last 200k and 12 years. I mean that literally, I beat the shit out of it. I put slicks on it and went to the drag strip countless times with the m50 in it. I did more clutch drops, j-hooks, drifts, power shifts, burnouts, and anything else that is generally not recommended, then you could imagine. THEN, I put the V8 in it, and put a few hundred terribly abusive miles on it. I actually commend that axle for it's service life.

[Holland]

I was going to warn you about pre-87 axles, but you already have everything covered.

[FunfGan]

Well, I had 300k miles on my early model axle. And I beat the living shit out of the car for the last 200k and 12 years. I mean that literally, I beat the shit out of it. I put slicks on it and went to the drag strip countless times with the m50 in it. I did more clutch drops, j-hooks, drifts, power shifts, burnouts, and anything else that is generally not recommended, then you could imagine. THEN, I put the V8 in it, and put a few hundred terribly abusive miles on it. I actually commend that axle for it's service life.

What about the last one you replaced it with? Or was that a used axle? Sorry if I missed it :???:

[Garageaholic]

Read the thread. He got a cheap autozone axle

[JGood]

It was an Autozone (Cardone) rebuilt, but after it broke, I pulled the wheel off, and the axle nut was lose. I don't think the splines were fully engaged. The splines on the rebuilts are always banged up and coated with some kind of paint, you have to file them to get them to fit. So the nut got tight, but as I drove it, the axle shifted in further, and caused the nut to loosen, and the CV joint binded up. That's my theory. I think the axle was fine, and probably would have lasted a long time, had I got the splines fully engaged.

[FunfGan]

Ah ok, sorry! Thanks for the info, I feel a bit better now haha.

[aaron.j]

New trailing arm and axle is in. Drove the car around the block, seems good.

I do have an issue which has been getting worse since I took it to the drag strip... a shuddering/vibration while letting the clutch out in first or reverse. I think either the oil pan is hitting the steering rack, or one of the engine or trans mounts is torn. I sure as hell hope it's not a clutch issue. I don't think so, as I think it would slip under load before anything else? It's a UUC lightweight flywheel and ClutchMasters FX100.

Rebleed your clutch. I had this issue on a customers 540i the other day. He did his own slave replacement and brought it in to me with this issue. Not saying this is it but check the easy stuff first.

[JGood]

Rebleed your clutch. I had this issue on a customers 540i the other day. He did his own slave replacement and brought it in to me with this issue. Not saying this is it but check the easy stuff first.

Really? And it was a shuddering clutch?

I'd be surprised, since it was fine for the first 500 or so miles, but I'll definitely give it a shot!

[Cronopoulos]

Usually shuttering is caused by hot spots on the flywheel (over time). Hard to believe on a new clutch you'd already be seeing this. I get shuddering when slipping because I run a 6 puck clutch but it looks like that's not case with your clutch (disk)...

Have you found anything else out in the meantime?

[JGood]

Usually shuttering is caused by hot spots on the flywheel (over time). Hard to believe on a new clutch you'd already be seeing this. I get shuddering when slipping because I run a 6 puck clutch but it looks like that's not case with your clutch (disk)...

Have you found anything else out in the meantime?

Nope, everything seems good. Guibo and CSB are new OEM parts, I checked them last night, great shape still.

I have noticed a vibration while accelerating between 1000-1500 RPM's, it's not horrible, but it's definitely noticeable. It happens at any throttle load.


In other news, back to the stalling/hesitation/backfiring issue. I installed a new ICV last night, and things got... somewhat better. So I plugged back in the o2 sensors. Sure enough, it went back to stalling every time I left off the gas. But, I kept driving it. Last night and the whole 40 mile drive to work today. By the time I got here, it wasn't stalling at all. But it is still popping/backfiring when going on/off throttle sometimes, and hesitates occasionally when going on the throttle after engine braking for a few seconds.

I'm going to get a scanner on it tonight or tomorrow and see what's going on.

[aaron.j]

What's your running/driving fuel pressure. Check volume as well. Swap the MaF with a known good unit. It probably ran OK without the 02 sensors b.c. it was in open loop. Check the above-clear faults and engine adaptations and then try with sensors in. Is it backfiring in the intake or exhaust? Acceleration or.deceleration?

[JGood]

What's your running/driving fuel pressure. Check volume as well. Swap the MaF with a known good unit. It probably ran OK without the 02 sensors b.c. it was in open loop. Check the above-clear faults and engine adaptations and then try with sensors in. Is it backfiring in the intake or exhaust? Acceleration or.deceleration?

Been through all that earlier in the thread. New pump, FPR, filter, etc... Pressure is 3-4 PSI low at idle, it's dumping fuel for whatever reason. Already swapped MAF. Already cleared codes and reset DME. Everything is new/replaced/tested... injectors, coil packs, plugs, boots, CPS, temp sensor, knock sensors, DME, ICV, TPS, ground cables, literally everything. It's been vacuum tested, compression tested, fuel pressure tested. Verified components at DME end of the harness, and verified voltages coming out of the harness at component connectors.

It's backfiring through the exhaust. Not a full out gunshot sounding backfire, but some loud popping. It does it on on/off throttle transitions, and occasionally when engine braking.

Need to get it on a scanner next for some data. I drove it to work today, and it stalled a few times when I left for lunch, and as I pulled back into the parking lot it began shaking pretty bad at idle, like it's missing. Should be a fun 40 mile drive home.

[aaron.j]

What do the plug look like. Have you tpulled apart the wiring harness on the passenger side fuel rail area to make sure none of the wiring melted? I wish you were closer

[aaron.j]

Sorry I haven't read the whole thing I hate to see a project stalled

[aaron.j]

And you have no fault code correct