The complete repair, rebuild, repaint, and v8 swap of my early model sedan
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Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827 -
Awesome! Yours was a pre 9/85?
I started putting some thought into why the hub wouldn't come out. I'm wondering if the part of the puller that is designed to pull on the inner race of the bearing from behind is too large for the early model smaller bearings, and is actually pulling on the outer race, which is held in place by the lock ring on the front? I haven't used the tool on my 85 yet, only my 87.Comment
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Hey, if you don't get that done in a week or 2, shoot me a message and I'd be more than willing to drive up and help.Comment
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Yeah, chassis is 8-10/83 and I used 88+ rear end parts when I converted to 325i disc brakes. Now I remember, I am not using early axles either, threw those away with the early trailing arms and diff.Awesome! Yours was a pre 9/85?
I started putting some thought into why the hub wouldn't come out. I'm wondering if the part of the puller that is designed to pull on the inner race of the bearing from behind is too large for the early model smaller bearings, and is actually pulling on the outer race, which is held in place by the lock ring on the front? I haven't used the tool on my 85 yet, only my 87.Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827Comment
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Actually - you're not supposed to be pulling on the bearing at all.Awesome! Yours was a pre 9/85?
I started putting some thought into why the hub wouldn't come out. I'm wondering if the part of the puller that is designed to pull on the inner race of the bearing from behind is too large for the early model smaller bearings, and is actually pulling on the outer race, which is held in place by the lock ring on the front? I haven't used the tool on my 85 yet, only my 87.
I have the same tool and used the part that fits into the hub so it will only pull on the hub.
Usually the bearing separates anyways since the hub fits so tight within the inner race.
Do you have a picture of the parts from the puller kit that you used?Comment
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Actually - you're not supposed to be pulling on the bearing at all.
I have the same tool and used the part that fits into the hub so it will only pull on the hub.
Usually the bearing separates anyways since the hub fits so tight within the inner race.
Do you have a picture of the parts from the puller kit that you used?
Yep, you're right. I realized this last night. You're just supposed to use the actual nut itself, it's the same size as the hub. I tried it, and it pulled the hub right out, no problem. I was pulling on the outer race of the bearing. So I bent the shit out of the tool for no reason. I was in a rush and didn't pay attention to what I was doing I guess.
I picked up the trailing arms/axles from Ryan last night anyway (thanks man!) as a drop in solution to the problem. The axles are already installed in the hubs, so my axle issue should disappear after this, as there's nothing for me to do wrong, lol.
My theory on the issue is that the first axle had 300k miles, it lived a very abusive life, and finally popped. The second one I don't think was pulled the whole way in, and after a few miles, developed some play, loosened the nut, backed out, and binded the CV joint up, and broke it. Those rebuilt axles come with the splines coated in some shit that you have to file off, I needed to spend some more time filing so it would have slid in easier and pulled in the whole way.Comment
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Less lip, more rip! :pMtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827Comment
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New trailing arm and axle is in. Drove the car around the block, seems good.
I do have an issue which has been getting worse since I took it to the drag strip... a shuddering/vibration while letting the clutch out in first or reverse. I think either the oil pan is hitting the steering rack, or one of the engine or trans mounts is torn. I sure as hell hope it's not a clutch issue. I don't think so, as I think it would slip under load before anything else? It's a UUC lightweight flywheel and ClutchMasters FX100.Comment
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Haha, I'm just so sick of working on it, instead of driving and enjoying it. The whole stalling/idle/jerkiness issue has me fully drained physically, mentally, and financially. I have over 100 hours into troubleshooting and replacing parts. Then when the axles started blowing up, I just lost all hope!Comment
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I totally understand that haha. I'm a bit worried now, because when I had the axles replaced(right after buying it), they seem to have replaced them with early model ones...Comment


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