The complete repair, rebuild, repaint, and v8 swap of my early model sedan

[JGood]

Hmmm well that s just crazy about the o2 sensors... Does it run better when it is cold then hot? because when the car is cold is does not use the o2 sensors. I am really trying to think what would make it do it. They have to be grounding out and causing the ecm to have a huge ground. How many engine grounds do you have? To few could cause a lot of gremlins. I would make sure they are on clean metal and tight.

They aren't grounding out, I've checked continuity from each of the eight o2 wires, and they aren't crossing to each other.

All of my engine ground cables are new, with cleaned surfaces. I added a second main chassis ground, grounded each coilpack, and used new uncoated hardware everywhere.

My thought at this point is that my exhaust leaks in front of the o2 sensors are pulling in air, making the o2's read lean. I don't have enough time on the scanner to know for sure. But my fuel trims aren't being changed, so the DME isn't doing anything to adjust mixture.

I'm going to fix the exhaust this winter, move the o2 sensors closer to the engine, and get it back on the scanner.

[JGood]

Finally finished the subframe bushing replacement, 4 days later. As with the rest of this project, everything that can go wrong, went wrong.

Anyway, she's back on her feet. I didn't put the back bumper or side skirts back on, or the exhaust. I'm going to drive it a few miles, make sure my 'shuddering' is gone, then bring it back in the garage and pull the engine out to fix the headers and a some other things that I rushed through to get the car running for this past summer.

[HawaiianE30]

Insane, just insane... I know your problems were a total PITA for you but having you put it all on R3V is priceless and we all thank you for it... Major kudos to your perseverance and it shows in a total kickass car :up:

Just starting on my proj... I think the m20 might have to find a new home soon :)

[JGood]

Welp, the shuddering isn't gone after doing the subframe bushings, trailing arm bushings, axle replacement, and diff replacement.

So I picked up a set of Revshift 90A m60 engine mounts:



The shuddering feels like it's not as bad, but it's definitely still there. So, it's gotta be the clutch/flywheel. Of course, they were the most expensive parts of this whole swap, so that sucks. I'll be pulling the engine and trans out this winter and check things out.

Also picked up some M3 adjustable swaybar links, so I can add the tabs to the strut housings and get a little more use out of the swaybar.




Also picked up an OEM rear window gasket. The piece of crap Meyle brand that I put in doesn't fit at all, the gasket pulled in over the lip of the body, so water just dumps right in. I can't believe they get away with selling that crap...

[Cinnabar325is]

Where did you pick up the M3 endlinks? I'm searching for a decent quality, reasonably priced set.

[JGood]

They are just Coleman shifter rods with spherical end links. You can get the parts at Jegs and Pegasus, or just buy a pre-assembled set from Ground Control, etc...

[F34R]

or just buy a pre-assembled set from Ground Control, etc...

1+

@the other guy
At GC you can order them to whatever measurements you need. I have complete info in my build thread on how the conversion was done. Mine are shortened to make up for the housings being shortened.

@Jgood, if you need measurements and where to setup the swaybar let me know. I am sure you have it covered though.

IE sells the tabs for OR you can just cut them out of square stock tubing. Then grind the triangles till they fit perfect to the housing. Use a 32mm socket and trace it onto the tabs, then grind away.

[MR 325]

Justin, I have a pair of tabs I never used. Hit me up if you want to buy!

[JGood]

Justin, I have a pair of tabs I never used. Hit me up if you want to buy!

PM sent!

[JGood]

Haven't got the engine pulled yet to redo the manifolds because I've been sidetracked with another project. Picked up this 90 740 turbo wagon. Running on about 8 psi currently. 211k, cut springs, 16" hydra wheels, muffler removed, manual boost controller. Picked it up for $1k. Interior is nice, black leather, heated seats. It's a pretty cool DD!

[ncbrock]

pretty sweet! I just sold my 240 turbo, it was a quick car. Is it manual?

[JGood]

pretty sweet! I just sold my 240 turbo, it was a quick car. Is it manual?

Nice! Yeah, they have some power, especially when you start cranking up the boost!

No, auto :/ I bought it from a friend, who just bought it from a mutual friend of ours last year. That mutual friend is a BMW guy (JHower08 on this forum), and did all the work to the car, including gathering up everything needed for a 5 speed swap. When he sold the car to the guy I eventually bought it from, he didn't want the trans, so everything was thrown away. Ugh, I really wish he still had it all.

Worked out some more bugs tonight, the boost controller was acting up so I cleaned that out, and I replaced a bunch of vacuum hoses, as well as change the oil and got it aligned. It's getting nicer and nicer to drive as I fix things, I really like it!

[JGood]

Finally got the e30 back in the garage and began tearing it down.







I'm gonna let the oil drain overnight, and I'll probably yank the engine out tomorrow.

[JGood]

Yanked the engine this morning:







Then took a break to go do this. Boost is cranked up to 15psi, Firestone Winterforce on all four corners. It gets no better then this!

[BimmerJeff]

Your build with all the problems seems to be how mine has been going (and I've just been trying to get mine on the road). Keep up the awesome work though! The car looks amazing and you've come really far on it. Gives me motivation to keep going on mine.