Kamotors E30-Turbo to ITB M20

[delamaize]

Get that tranny out Bruh! I'm curious if the flywheel came loose.

I talked to a mechanic friend and showed him the death rattle video, he said to check out the slide the throwout bearing rides on, he said that if it's quite a bit smaller than the bearing it will rattle like a motherfucker also, and he also agrees with others that have said it may be a loose flywheel, and it could be a fuckered input shaft also.

I know I'm curious as fuck, that's for sure.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

truth:( buuuuut i may get another E30 this week. so I'll have 5 car, 2 subies and 3 E30's lol

how come your getting another? Should get this one running like top first. Specs on the 3rd one?

[kamotors]

so Delamaize was right!loose flywheel, seems I was missing that load plate


but things got nasty in there



gouged things pretty bad, not sure why the gouge got so deep on each side though? just vibrations and metal particles grinding away I guess.

so going to debrur crank, replace everything else, get missing parts etc and put back together, no way am I replacing the crank.

[LJ851]

I don't see any loctite in there unless the flash is hiding it. I don't care what anyone else says, i red loctite all my flywheel bolts and have had exactly zero flywheels come loose ever.

Make sure all the high spots are off the crank end and you should be good.

[ForcedFirebird]

What did you torque them to? Couldn't tell you how many FW's I have done and never had one come loose, never used Loctite, but always to torque them to factory spec. BMW bolts need sealant to keep the thread from leaking oil, though.

[whodwho]

Blue Loctite works to keep them tight and sealed ;)

[jntar]

I knew that was the problem. Glad you're getting it fixed. Like I said, don't forget the loctite this round since you removed the OEM thread lock.

[kamotors]

I ordered more new hardware so they come with that yellow sealant/lock on them.
120nm was the torque, the thing was the bolts werent that loose, they had just backed off a very slight amount which let the thing pivot side to side.

not sure why this happened, I've done like 5 or 6 flywheels and non have had issues except this one.


ALL hardware was brand new, and the flywheel bolts had the yellow lock on them and was torqued down, not sure how this happened, only thing I can think of is its the missing torque plate, spacer caused this issue

[kamotors]

here is a pic of the clutch, that tcd wouldnt give me info about.

I looked up the number, just seems to be a regular stage 3? part number shows an fx300 yet todd said its good for over 500hp
[IMG]20141206_130230 by kamotors@y, on Flickr[/IMG]

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Wow got nasty in there. Missing load plate will definitely cause that.

[LowR3V'in]

Take pictures of the disc.
segmented kevlar is "stage 3"

good for 500hp unless it's on a diesel 700tq 300hp.

[MatRacer]

Dont remembrer if your flywheel is made of aluminium, but if yes, the load plate is important... Even if its from 6061 T6...

[kamotors]

Dont remembrer if your flywheel is made of aluminium, but if yes, the load plate is important... Even if its from 6061 T6...

It's steel

[Good & Tight]

Good thing you stopped driving it, you wouldn't want that flywheel letting go on WOT pull.
Some liquid teflon sealant on the threads or loctite is all you need. Another thing to check is the correct flywheel bolt length.

[ForcedFirebird]

Another thing to check is the correct flywheel bolt length.

Length is a reason more than one car has come in for "engine is locked". :(



The look on their faces when they see the short invoice to change a few bolts is priceless, though lol.