It has some leverage, yes, but the total pushing-pulling force required to engage a ratio is no bigger. Not worried about the weld, if they break they weren't proper work. The threaded part is from a 10.9 hard bolt. Anyhow, I'm not worried about their strength or stiffness. Not slamming the gears in and breaking the box is what I need to remember.
I used a hole saw to cut approx right size piece of the delrin. When I got it to the right O.D. I pressed it in and drilled the 10mm center hole. I have no lathe.
Thanks again to everyone for the compliments.
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Some serious dedication here sir, good job. The first picture of the yellow startled me but there is a real depth to that color, changes a lot with the lighting and looks pretty BA!
Also, why not fab up a dual shear set up for the shifter? I like the floating spherical but with the arm length you're putting a ton of leverage on that threaded rod/weld.
Interested to see how you make the delrin bushings ;)
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Quick solution for a 2->1 collector. Good enough for my purposes...

Place to bolt on the coil


Exhaust stuff pretty much done



Still haven't figured a practical use for the titanium I have lying around

The shifter... linkage was shown in one of those^^ pics
Stick side of things:

I bought a bar of polyacetal and I'm making the linkage bushes from that. Shitty material to work on but stiff bushes.
Sold the only tyre/rim set I had, from under the car. I ordered a set of semi slicks, hard.

I got the prop shaft back from machine shop, balanced 'n all! They even included a new center bearing, yay!Last edited by petrolhead; 04-22-2016, 07:35 AM.Leave a comment:
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That's the only right way to do it, strip everything before paint shop especially when changing the color. Otherwise it'll look like a trash can. Too many of those circling the neighbourhood.
Removing / installing fuse box equals removing and installing the main wiring harness. Which in the case of a modest 1984 carb model with no options means 8,3 kgs of electrics stuff. You just put the box in the engine bay somewhere and start feeding it's wires through the big oval hole till you come to the big ass grommet.. Idunno.. not a huge undertaking if the car is without it's dash, engine 'n stuff.How much work was pulling/reinstalling the fusebox?
One thing I would do if I were starting again: Mark the wiring/terminals what they do, every_single_one. And mark them so that they stay on when you pull the bunch out through the firewall.
I did that and dropped ~1,3kgs of misc wiring off the car. Couple other reasons for this: Ground points and especially ground distributions are prone to bad connections and corrosion. Got rid of those. Shortening the ground wires minimizes voltage loss (circuitry resistance? I don't know the tech terms..), so your lights may shine a bit brighter. I re-routed so much of the wiring that it's all the same to take wiring sets apart, shorten everything as needed and install with new terminals. I did come across many potential faults and bad repairs by previous owners.I guess you are going through the whole harnes anyways to shave weight.Last edited by petrolhead; 04-18-2016, 06:24 AM.Leave a comment:
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Paint job looks great! I'm a fan of bright colors. I also like that you stripped everything inside and out, so that it all received a proper coat of the new color.
How much work was pulling/reinstalling the fusebox? I guess you are going through the whole harnes anyways to shave weight.Leave a comment:
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Quick 'n dirty solution to make room for the plenum..

If you look closely you'll see the dip stick setup I made. In an old block such as this, the dip stick pipe is with a bolted on flange. So, take the flange, weld a short bit of M40 dip stick tube to it and shorten the stick as needed. I made them real short to save weight, but they might as well be because the inlet side stuff take up a lot of space.Last edited by petrolhead; 04-16-2016, 06:57 AM.Leave a comment:
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DIY shifter. Took me a whole saturdays worth of work..



Feels quite good, and it IS adjustable if need arises. I need to replace a few bits in the linkage to get everything tight. I used what I could from OEM parts. Stick itself is pressed to a spherical bearing. The bearing sits in a weld cup or whatdoyoucallthem.Last edited by petrolhead; 04-09-2016, 02:16 PM.Leave a comment:
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We put in an empty spare block with an E30 oil pan, spare head and the transmission. Just to see what the propshaft length needs to be. I took the prop shaft stuff with measurements to a machine shop today.
I fabricated engine mounting brackets but they're so ugly no one will see pictures of them. They're strong enough and that's it. I made them from random stuff available in the garage corner. Different steels, different thicknesses.. so the welding is not going to be pretty.


Pile of random small stuff that arrived from the dealership

I took the car out to give it a quick wash. The clip shows it's color/shade well http://petrolhead.kuvat.fi/kuvat/198...side+color.MP4Last edited by petrolhead; 04-05-2016, 11:59 AM.Leave a comment:
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As one can see, in every pic the color is different. Yeah, although it shouldn't matter to me, it's nice to hear I'm not the only person who likes it.
My targets will be met and exceeded, given time. :)
Skarpa, kiitos!Leave a comment:
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Im loving this build. The color has really grown on me too. Hope you hit all your goalsLeave a comment:
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All fog lights, switches, and their wiring deleted

..as was the rear window defogger:

Dashboard collides with the modified windscreen frame. I can live with that and come up with a clever solution come winter.

1984 front lip doesn't fit the 1985-> front valance.

Rest of the brake stuff installed and made to fit eachother, brake bleeding done (I think).
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Quite stiff engine mounts, 5,90€ a piece


Lambda's route to the prop shaft tunnel

Wiring sets are quite a lot thinner than stock.
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