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Removed all the carpet. Found out that somehow there was some water still sitting in the passenger foot area. The water must have been there for at least a year! I decided to wear a respirator just in case.
On the other hand, i could remove the sound deadening with my fingers since the water had weakened it.
Got the subframe primed, and tested my bolt replacing bar to make sure it still fit.
Got the bushings in.
You'll notice there's a bit of a gap between the top bushing and the cup. You see those two indents? The top half of the IE bushing doesn't have an indent to compensate for it. But oddly the bottom half does...? Why would they do that, weird. Anyway, decided to grind out a little bit from the other bushing to see how well it went in...
Presto!
The bottom half of the bushing goes in by hand, but the top half, even with the grounded edge, needs a bit of a tool to push in. You can't just use a regular washer because it has to fit over the center metal spacer. So I used a rather large socket and the washer originally designed to go there.
One of the problems with replacing the bolts with a bar is that the whole assembly (subframe, trailing arms, and maybe diff) have to go in at the same time. There's no room to remove the bar once it's in. Took a while but we finally got the whole thing in there, with the help of my friend John and his dad. We didn't remove the huge subframe knurled bolt, instead we balanced the whole thing when we jacked it up and wiggled it a bit any time it binded. Seems to have worked fine.
This is the method I came up with for testing wheel spacers
Go ahead and laugh, but it worked!
Looks like with a ~15mm I'll be able to get around 10 inches of travel. It looks like only 9" on the ruler, but once I cut off the center of the spring perch it'll go up another inch.
Here you can see where my trailing arm supports contact the spring perch.
Still not entirely sure if regular Fox/King offroad coilovers will fit back there. There appears to be enough room when I used the spacers, but I'll definitely need to cut into the area of the trunk just behind the shock towers. I could roll the fenders and get a 25mm spacer, but honestly I want the bearings to survive more than one outing.
Does anyone have a 15mm spacer in San Diego they wanna sell? :)
very interested to see out it turns out. I have been having a hard time finding a rear set up that works well.
I read your thread about your blown Bilstein HD's...
This is exactly why I'm trying hard to fit some genuine off road shocks on my car. It didn't seem to matter how good the shocks were (I too was originally using Bilstein HD's), they just weren't designed for constant and rapid long travel.
For the rear, if you want to keep your spring and shock separate, it'll be a lot easier than doing a coilover. Go with something like this: http://www.ridefox.com/product.php?m...384&ref=filter . You'll need to find an adapter to fit over the 12mm mount bolt, and you'll need to weld a mounting bracket for the shock tower.... but I guarantee you it'll last a lot longer than those tiny E30 Bilsteins :)
For the front, I'm probably going to be using Bilsteins new "Universal Motorsport Strut". Of course, this is a lot of work too, since you would have to cut the tube off the spindle and weld on the new one.... but again, it'll take a lot more of a beating than those E30 shocks, and give you more travel. It's pretty damn expensive though at about 550 a peice (then you gotta get the tops machined/threaded too). :|
that fox shock is exactly what i have been looking at. I was planning on cutting a small hole and mounting the reservoirs in the trunk. The only thing that has stopped me from getting them is whether or not i could find a spring that worked well. I dont want to get those and then in a month have to ditch them for coilovers. Currently i have a e36 vert spring but the rear end likes to buck. I think that just may be the nature of the short wheel base and no weight in the rear.
that fox shock is exactly what i have been looking at. I was planning on cutting a small hole and mounting the reservoirs in the trunk. The only thing that has stopped me from getting them is whether or not i could find a spring that worked well. I dont want to get those and then in a month have to ditch them for coilovers. Currently i have a e36 vert spring but the rear end likes to buck. I think that just may be the nature of the short wheel base and no weight in the rear.
One of the advantages of going with Fox/King shocks is they are adjustable. If you find that you are bucking too much, or just plain bouncing all over, you can easily get them revalved. Makes a HUGE difference. Can't do that with the Bilsteins :). Though to be fair, Bilstein has a range of off road shocks as well, but I don't know enough about them to comment.
I have no idea what spring you would use, TBH. I think the original spring when I bought this thing was also an e36 vert.
I would actually be more concerned about the damn CV's. They have very little movement, and they are more likely to fail when at extreme angles. My measurements show that they will move roughly 11 inches from one side to the other max. Lower the diff like this, to get more downward movement of those axles: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...34&postcount=7
Loving the build so far, car looks like a ton of fun. Was playing with the idea of doing the sharkface on mine and after seeing yours I'm using it for inspiration (hope you don't mind)
1991 325i - "Scambles" The Daily Driven lightly modded.
1988 Mazda RX-7 TII "Mako" The Free Dorito bacon by Jared Laabs, on Flickr
Loving the build so far, car looks like a ton of fun. Was playing with the idea of doing the sharkface on mine and after seeing yours I'm using it for inspiration (hope you don't mind)
Makes a HUGE difference. Can't do that with the Bilsteins :). Though to be fair, Bilstein has a range of off road shocks as well, but I don't know enough about them to comment.
At least what I have found from Bilstein, they are better for rock crawling, and playing in the mud and dirt trails. Any time you run them at speed they just heat soak too fast and will stop performing as well. I used to run my Yota at high speeds back the fire roads and in dirt fields.
Start looking at pre runners and their bed cages for inspiration for mounting coil overs. Also, head over to Pirate4x4 and look at some of the rock crawling RAV4s and Suzukis to see how they reinforced the unibody.
1990 BMW 325is 5spd Black
2005 Subaru Impreza 5spd
2015 Yamaha FZ-07
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