Vivek's Vert.

[F34R]

White is a dirt cap that slides down the strut to rest on the top of the housing nut. I believe the metal ring is a spacer to prop the insert to the correct height for uncut housings using the Koni sports.

I could be wrong on all of that^ lol, I never used any of it, nor got them in my packages. I am guessing because I am running custom valved, shortened housings.

[Vivek]

Well...I didn't install either of them. They fit fine without the metal ring, and the white plastic piece fit really crappily around the strut insert so I didn't put it on. It would be pretty easy to put it on later if someone confirms that it's important.

No pics yet (too lazy right now) but I got the coilovers on front and rear, put on AKG CABs, and an eknight cross brace. I have to say that I literally noticed zero extra vibration or harshness in the steering wheel or otherwise after installing race hardness control arm bushings. I need to upgrade my sway bar end links, I haven't decided whether to go with dodge stratus ones (bolts the sway bar down right by the control arm) or IE adjustable ones. I think the dodge ones may be a bit more effective, but may not allow for enough body roll, which could lead to understeer. Is that logic correct?

These are the dodge links for reference:

[e30 gangsta]

What do you mean may not allow for enough body roll? Are you saying that since the links are soo short it will not allow the swaybar to move as needed? Id say try the dodge ones, it will position the sway bar better than the stock ones. Once an e30 is lowered the link push the sways into an improper position.

[Vivek]

I thought it may cause too much understeer in corners since the front may be too tight. Does that even make sense, or am I misunderstanding it? It seems like the dodge ones could make the front sway MUCH more effective by pulling it down nearly 4 inches.

[e30 gangsta]

I thought it may cause too much understeer in corners since the front may be too tight. Does that even make sense, or am I misunderstanding it? It seems like the dodge ones could make the front sway MUCH more effective by pulling it down nearly 4 inches.

Pulling it down 4 inches will make the sway bar more parallel to the ground, therefore putting it into a better position than with the stock links. As far as making the car under steer because it’s too "tight", I don’t think that will be an issue. Seeing as the stock sways are non adjustable. When running aftermarket adjustable sways you can adjust to make the bar tighter or looser, effectively changing how the car handles. Dropping the front sway bar down from its current height has to be beneficial as long as it allows the stock sway bar to move and isn’t solid.

Please post pics if you decide to go with the dodge links. I’m really interested seeing as my front sway bar is also in the same predicament as yours.

[Vivek]

Would it be possible to pull it down too much? My front isn't low at all, so I don't wanna have any adverse effects. I'll have to look at how the sway sits right now and see if pulling it down that much would make it leaned forward instead of parallel to the ground

[smerfs]

I'm running IE 25mm front and 22mm rear sways and It's a perfect balance. With the setup I have running and the way I adjusted everything I get very very little understeer and a fair bit of oversteer. Front sway is adjusted to be at it's full tension, rear is a little looser. I get practically no body roll (only in a harsh turn) and it really isn't an issue. It's all about how you tune everything. My shocks are the custom valved koni's and I also tightened up the front and left the rear the same.

[///sLothiC]

Just put the Dodge end links on !!! It's working great... and you dont will notice any difference.

[DRTSRFR]

Koni struts--what are these things and where do they go? There's nothing in the instructions or documentation mentioning them.

The white nylon piece is a bumpstop vent. If you don't use it the bumpstop can suck fluid from the damper as it rebounds, and/or damage the wiper seal.

The steel ring, which should be installed around the top of the insert and the inner circumference of the gland nut, is an adapter for stock non-Bilstien gland nuts. If you don't use it, the top of the insert can shift side to side which may allow the shaft to rub the gland nut. Also, if the ring is not used, the insert can rub on the inner walls of the housing. I've seen them wear all the way through, which destroys the insert.

[Vivek]

Thanks for the info ill put them on ASAP. Where exactly does the white nylon piece go, right over the strut shaft? So it basically sits on top of the gland nut?

Also, one of the steel rings is bent to the point that its an oval--that's how it was from the box. Is that normal?

[DRTSRFR]

Yep, exactly.

[Vivek]

Is one of the rings supposed to be oval?

[DRTSRFR]

The steel rings? ...umm no.

[Vivek]

Weird...I guess I'll stick that one in a vice and try to straighten it out. It was pretty bent right out of the box for some reason.

[DRTSRFR]

If you have trouble, call me. I may have some spares here.