^ Agree with pretty much all of it.
Unless you're racing some specific class that doesn't allow this, I think the way to go is with one of these DTM replica setups or stiffer stock stuff w/risers.
Nothing in between is worth doing voluntarily.
★ ★ Project Glacier | Make the E30 a Daily Again ★ ★
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Be nice if someone would sell the service for the DTM Adjuster, and just call it it a day.
My PSA is nobody can make a nice slot while doing eccentric's, or the Posi locks. If you make a perfect slot you only have like 30% of the original clamping force and continues to degrade depending on quality of slot.
Next, Most bushings have aluminum sleeve that'll mushroom and causing the hardware to come loose, on the flip side they bind up the bushings from the mushrooming and now the hinged pivot points are off set.., not like most know how to use a torque wrench or get one in there.
And after all this work the eccentrics probably aren't welded in the correct area and can accommodate how much things have shifted over the years on these high production parts..
If you use used parts you have no idea where your baseline is, and no idea where to off set the eccentrics to accommodate.
I recently did a set of group N bushings that I machined off 10mm that made it a riser bushing that got the suspension close, and a previous car I had bend into spec, but had poly.
A perfect street set up would be to do the Group N bushing machined 10MM and then bend the rest into spec with stock trailing arm bushings. These cars a night and day difference with the useless negative camber removed and some decent rear toe in.Last edited by moatilliatta; 02-02-2021, 06:56 AM.Leave a comment:
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I have a friend experimenting with this setup. I'm very curious to see how it goes.
I agree with this, neither seems to be very appealing. Toothed ones seem to have issues with coarseness of adjustment, and the regular ones just slip out of adjustment.
I only run subframe risers and I've been through a few sets of tires with no wear issues in the rear. I think the whole thing is blown a bit out of proportion.
That is quite the dent though

Yeah the dent is unfortunate, luckily I didn't pay much money for this subframe so I'm not too salty about it. Just need to find another one to do up properly.Leave a comment:
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I agree with this, neither seems to be very appealing. Toothed ones seem to have issues with coarseness of adjustment, and the regular ones just slip out of adjustment.
I only run subframe risers and I've been through a few sets of tires with no wear issues in the rear. I think the whole thing is blown a bit out of proportion.
That is quite the dent though
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Well I intended to use the Condor reinforcements (https://www.condorspeedshop.com/coll...-plate-set-e30) and just OEM rubber subframe bushings like I currently have. I'm keeping this an enjoyable street car so I don't want poly/delrin stuff. Also not planning to do adjusters on the subframe, I don't like the tooth style ones and I'm kinda ehh on the eccentric style. I have an idea for rear alignment adjustment but that's gonna be another project.
However, I was tearing apart the subframe yesterday with the intention of cleaning it up to get ready for welding then powder coat... but I found out this subframe has a sizeable dent in the bottom of it. Doesn't look like it affects the geometry much/if at all. The mounting hole center-center measurement checks out according to some old forum post I found. And the trailing arm mounting tab measurements match up on both sides. With that being said, I'm not going to spend the money restoring this specific one, I'll just save the reinforcements for another subframe. Instead, I'm just going to toss this one in as-is (with new bushings) so I can at least get the car back on the road.


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What reinforcements, Adjusters, and bushings are you going to run?Last edited by moatilliatta; 01-28-2021, 09:02 AM.Leave a comment:
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Subframe acquired. Now I just need to get the reinforcements welded in.

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Alright. This time it's for real. The E30 is coming back before the summer. I've got a friend parting an E30 so I'm just waiting for him to do that so I can snag the subframe. Then I'll need to get the reinforcements welded in and we'll be good to go.


In other news, I scored big today and got a ZHP rack which I've always wanted for $80.


No idea when I'll get around to putting that in. Probably when I pull the head to fix the oil leak. At the same time I'll get power steering added on again and hopefully a/c.Leave a comment:
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lmao... I've just been slacking on getting a replacement subframe but I'm working on that now lol
It's hard to work on the E30 when I can just do this instead...

DSC00641 by Phillip Keefe, on FlickrLeave a comment:
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So... some interesting news...
Decided to actually start working on my car today.
Got the car jacked up.
And I found what I expected... my diff bushing is COMPLETELY shot...
And then... with a bit more inspection I found some more interesting stuff...
So yeah... now I need another subframe. Hell yeah.
Luckily I have a friend with one so I'm good on sourcing one. But, this time I'm gonna make sure this is the last subframe I put in it so it's gonna get all the reinforcements and shit.Leave a comment:
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The weather was super nice yesterday so I spent the afternoon cleaning the garage in prep for working on my shitboxes.
I've been driving the E30 around when it hasn't been snowing even with the headgasket leak. It doesn't really leak that much oil so it hasn't been too bad. But earlier this week I noticed I got a bad clunking when accelerating near the top of first gear. Turns out my diff bushing is completely torn... so I have to fix that now. With the garage cleaned up and the warmer weather, I think I'm gonna put the car back on jack stands so I can finally get around to fixing it completely. This means I'll also be able to get A/C and power steering back in. I'll probably also go through the suspension because I think the shocks are pretty shot.
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