the Aluminum Monster. a 318 with a special 24v

[wazzu70]

On some of the exhaust hangars like that I put a ziptie around the outside to help keep them from stretching/breaking. The rubber still insulates vibrations, and the ziptie helps distribute the load.

[CorvallisBMW]

If you have constant hanger failure it makes me think there's something wrong; they should last for 100k miles. If you were running too rich or too lean, it would cause your exhaust temps to skyrocket and could melt the rubber hangers. I had it happen to me once when my O2 sensor died.

[2mAn]

If these ones fail then I will be concerned, but the ones that lasted 100+ miles were some cheap ones that didnt really fit great. I figured they were an improvement over the coat hangers. I was wrong.

I will throw a ziptie around these ones though just to help them last

[2mAn]

went and met up with a guy parting out an E30 and was planning on getting the windshield to replace my cracked one, but sadly that one cracked too!

Good news was that there were a few little parts that I needed to help tidy things up. small victories matter.



My car, originally being a M10 318 had the battery up front and once it was moved to the back was missing the battery junction box, or whatever its called. Now the cable isnt hanging out in mid air, its tucked nicely up against the firewall and soon will be covered with M3 wiring harness cover things... someday in the future...

I also bought a miata battery and will be addressing that soon. Basically it will be mounted just like all the other E30s that have their batteries in the trunk, though being that this one never had the cutout for a normal battery, the miata is a perfect fit, and shaves a few lbs from a normal battery.


edit: Anyone have a tip on how to get that rubber insulator grommet thing in besides shear force? Its pretty big as is, but it tapers down where it actually goes around the hole on the firewall. I gave it a few quick attempts yesterday but I started working late and called it a day.

[Red46]

edit: Anyone have a tip on how to get that rubber insulator grommet thing in besides shear force? Its pretty big as is, but it tapers down where it actually goes around the hole on the firewall. I gave it a few quick attempts yesterday but I started working late and called it a day.

Lots of lube ;)

[2mAn]

Lots of lube ;)

you'd think with how much lube Ive needed with this car, I would have a dispenser in the glovebox.

So, the next step in the "I swear Mom its a good car," this brings us to the brakes. I used an iX booster and master with my swap and I love the brakes. Total OEM feel, nothing funny. well, there is that one thing though. The reservoir on the master and the VAC intake boot wanted to somewhat occupy the same space. Didnt seem like a big deal, I already had the 2002 reservoir, new blue BMW cloth hose and the little nipples. The FAQ sections never seemed to mention that the nipples needed a tighter hole (dont we all need a tighter hole?). So, as most of my projects go, the parts collected dust, I had a plan, I just didnt have time. Andrew over at Ireland Engineering had the right part, but I hadnt had a chance to get out there. Long story short, I finally got the parts I needed to finish the job.

This isnt good...


mmmm tight holes, next to a loose and abused one




and then, as usual I hit a wall. Not literally though. I bought a fancy power bleeder about 3, maybe 4 years ago and used it once. Cleaned the dust off of it, and then... saw that the pump was broken. Hopefully I can get just the pump replaced otherwise this is all garbage.


Then the next hurdle was the nipples. (this update is DIRTY!!) The nipples on the brake calipers are 7mm in size. My flare wrench set I bought only goes down to 8 and my box ends go from 8 -> 6.

Luckily the brakes had been flushed within the last two months so they arent horrible, but obviously Id like to fix this ASAP. I am planning on tracking the car in about two weeks, then driving it up to Washington, driving it on the Maryhill Loops road, spending a week in Seattle for a pair of weddings , then driving it back down. Im sure I will need solid brakes at least one time in this next month.

and the adventure continues....

[wazzu70]

What is the remote reserivor from? Looks clean and gives better access to that area.

[2mAn]

What is the remote reserivor from? Looks clean and gives better access to that area.

Here are the part #s to get the 2002 remote resevoir setup
(1)- 21521163714 = Blue Cloth Hose
(1)- 34321112388 = 2002 Brake Fluid Resevoir
(2)- 34321102282 = Angula Pipe

total was $65 + shipping

I dont have a part # for the rubber pieces though as Andrew from Ireland Engineering got them for me

[The Dark Side of Will]

Here are the part #s to get the 2002 remote resevoir setup
(1)- 21521163714 = Blue Cloth Hose
(1)- 34321112388 = 2002 Brake Fluid Resevoir
(2)- 34321102282 = Angula Pipe

total was $65 + shipping

I dont have a part # for the rubber pieces though as Andrew from Ireland Engineering got them for me

That looks like a very clean setup that could come in very handy for V8 swappers. Thanks for the info!

Can you ask about the rubber thing? (Did you get an invoice or receipt that has it?)

[SkiFree]

I dont have a part # for the rubber pieces though as Andrew from Ireland Engineering got them for me

It was good to meet you on Saturday! The grommet part number is 34 31 1 121 911.

[2mAn]

It was good to meet you on Saturday! The grommet part number is 34 31 1 121 911.

Thanks for the part# Andrew! It was also really nice meeting you the other day. I will be back up to the store one of these days as I need a front swaybar repair kit, BOTH tabs are broken

In other news, I registered for the El Toro Auto-X on the 19th instead of the track day. Its going to be an expensive few months so I figured I could spend money on other things that need to happen instead of having a fun track day and neglecting those other things.

[2mAn]

allrighty...

so one of the next things I needed to do in preparation for abusing the car is fixing the things I think are broken.

first, go spend money on parts that should fix whats broken. trip to Ireland Engineering on tuesday to aquire parts.check.

swaybar_repair1 by 2mAn

inspect old parts. looks broken to me

swaybar_repair2 by 2mAn

swaybar_repair3 by 2mAn


and install new parts

swaybar_repair4 by 2mAn

swaybar_repair5 by 2mAn

I think I did it right It certainly feels better. I also cleaned the bar, so thats some weight savings ;D

Oh and the G260 appears to be leaking. one step forward... two steps back

[digger]

been a while since i did my fronts but the thicker part looks like its on wrong? there is a step in the subframe that the thicker part of the plate mates to the left bolt as viewed in the pic

http://i48.tinypic.com/4jrq8g.jpg

[LJ851]

been a while since i did my fronts but the thicker part looks like its on wrong? there is a step in the subframe that the thicker part of the plate mates to the left bolt as viewed in the pic

I agree with digger. Try not to be too in awe of my photo altering skillz. The steps mate together.

[Farbin Kaiber]

I know it's a while back now, but flex couplings in your exhaust, do you have at least one?