the Aluminum Monster. a 318 with a special 24v

[Sh3rpak!ng]

They do as far as I know. There are 3

EDIT: oops, I could've sworn they were doing all three... just saw it's only the black/yellow

[e30polak]

Prior to that I will have my appt with the BAR referee! November 25th is the big day. Im excited to see if all this BS will allow me to finally get CA plates. Ive been itching to get my custom plates

You'll want a different intake for the BAR inspection.

[JinormusJ]

Hey there sexy

Nice car

[2mAn]

They do as far as I know. There are 3

EDIT: oops, I could've sworn they were doing all three... just saw it's only the black/yellow

yea, pretty lame, but thats fine

You'll want a different intake for the BAR inspection.

I've heard many different opinions on this and ideally I would have an airbox, but Im not shelling out $$$ for a castros box, my friend who was going to give me an E34 one has repeatedly flaked on me (in addition to the M3 firewall piece I bought off him), the M20 airbox didnt work, so Im at a crossroads...

edit: on second though, if they arent that expensive a Castros Box would be an option I would take since i know the BAR has been cool with those boxes

Hey there sexy

Nice car

hai ;D

[2mAn]

Soooo... Here we are. Last piece to the puzzle. The check engine light. Running two wires. I've already pulled the gray wire apart from the rest of the x20 mess so the now I just need to run that wire into the cabin, and hook it up to a light. Then the other wire needs to get a switched 12v source. What's the worst that could happen?



Well, I ran the grey wire into the cabin. *check* Hooked up the wire to an extra light. *check* Now to find a switched 12v source. Figured the easiest place would be from the stereo. Tapped into that. *check* Got that wired up and now.... The light stays on the whole time the car is on. So I guess I have about 3 weeks to figure out why its on ... Joy

[kronus]

stomp test

[2mAn]

yup, thats what today will be. I finished last night and didnt want to deal with it. Im off work at 2pm on Fridays so hopefully the stomp test will actually work and give me some feedback

[kronus]

let's just hope it's not an unsolvable O2 sensor code

[2mAn]

let's just hope it's not an unsolvable O2 sensor code

yea this is definitely the biggest thing I hate about OBD1. My o2 sensor is brand new, so that would be an annoying place to start.

The thing that really drives me crazy with this is that the car runs perfect, so why do I need to check my engine! :(

[pandaboo911]

if you get 1234 you can ignore it, its for the speedometer signal. It'll throw 1234 even if you hooked up VSS correctly but won't trip the light.

Any code like MAF or O2 will be stored until you clear the codes so it could be from a while ago. You can clear them by cycling through all the codes and holding down the pedal for 10 seconds

[2mAn]

if you get 1234 you can ignore it, its for the speedometer signal. It'll throw 1234 even if you hooked up VSS correctly but won't trip the light.

Any code like MAF or O2 will be stored until you clear the codes so it could be from a while ago.

Oh really??? Should I disconnect the battery for ~20 minutes to clean the memory out? Actually, explain this pedal clearing move

[pandaboo911]

Oh really??? Should I disconnect the battery for ~20 minutes to clean the memory out?

check the codes first, then clear them and see if they come back. Some codes usually take about 15-20 minutes of driving in closed loop to trigger again.

I get 1234 every time I clear but I'm assuming that's because the ECU is not getting the signal it's expecting. It'll still work but throw a code for incorrect signal.

The ODB1 codes are so vague they're almost useless. Mine routinely throws codes for MAF and O2 sensor, but there's nothing wrong with either. it'll throw O2, MAF, or mixture for a vacuum leak.

[2mAn]

Im just worried that with a CEL the BAR will tell me to GTFO

check the codes first, then clear them and see if they come back. Some codes usually take about 15-20 minutes of driving in closed loop to trigger again.

I get 1234 every time I clear but I'm assuming that's because the ECU is not getting the signal it's expecting. It'll still work but throw a code for incorrect signal.

The ODB1 codes are so vague they're almost useless. Mine routinely throws codes for MAF and O2 sensor, but there's nothing wrong with either. it'll throw O2, MAF, or mixture for a vacuum leak.

exactly how I feel. Id love to have kept the OBD2 brain, but I definitely dont want to try and BAR the car as an OBD2

[pandaboo911]

Yeah a CEL will for sure fail you at BAR. If you ever decide to say fuck BAR and liberate yourself from the SMOG nazis I can point you in the right direction.

[2mAn]

Well, this stomp test won't work from inside the car. Im going to try manually doing it from the throttle body after I get some food. I'm hungry....my pedal stomping is getting more violent