Ford 5.0 swap into a Bronzit. Update: Now running, VIDEO ADDED.

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    Found that thread. Early 81 280z slave. For $13 its worth a shot.

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    I think I'm going to stick with hydraulic.

    Just need to figure out which slave to use. Looks pretty simple to fabricate a bracket out of some angle iron.

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  • eurotrash
    replied
    Theres a $70 slave setup in one of the swap threads floating around somewhere. DONT i repeat DONT swap to a cable. Mine has a custom cable pully setup and i hate it sooooo much. Its not as bad now that ive got a legit pully inthere but the cable was breaking like every 4-5 drives. Annoying as shit. You also have to do a custom cable legth and have a very very good hand held cable swedge tool or use the shitty cable lock u bolt thingys. I lucked out and my dad had the swedge tool but its a pain in the ass.

    If youve got your heart set up running cable ship me your stock pedal cluster and ill ship u mine.

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    Dropping off the driveshaft in the AM, called the shop and they said it should be OK.

    Got the throttle cable situated! Couldn't have been easier. I took the stock one out of the Mustang, turned the hole that the E30 cable goes through 90*, cut a slice out of it and closed up the hole a bit, fit the Mustang cable perfectly. Perfect length too, I just hope I can keep this EASY momentum up.

    Although, the clutch is bothering me. I was hoping to save money by running the cable clutch setup that is in the Mustang now. It has some crazy pulley on the clutch pedal that makes it feel like a hydraulic. I just don't know if I will have room for the mustang pedal set under the dash. I may just have to fork over the cash that I don't have for a hydraulic slave conversion on the T5.

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  • chance
    replied
    Originally posted by Exodus_2pt0
    It was working fine in the Mustang, no vibrations.

    Upon closer inspection, the gouge is .023in deep. I'm thinking about just asking if the shop can remove that section when they shorten it. Knock out 2 birds with one stone.
    That would work.

    My steel one was 40 to shorten, so I think 100 is pretty good for aluminum

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    It was working fine in the Mustang, no vibrations.

    Upon closer inspection, the gouge is .023in deep. I'm thinking about just asking if the shop can remove that section when they shorten it. Knock out 2 birds with one stone.
    Last edited by Exodus_2pt0; 03-19-2013, 12:56 PM.

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  • IronFreak
    replied
    Run it, if it breaks make a new one!

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    Just measured the damage, its a little less than 1mm difference from the area that rubbed to the rest. I'm hoping that is acceptable, but I have no idea how thick the tubing is.

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    Out of the donor car.

    I need to have it looked at anyway, a little bit of rub damage from something under there. The owner of the Mustang is planning on having a whole new one made.

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  • IronFreak
    replied
    yeah, I have an inland right behind my house. Where did you get the aluminum drive shaft?

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    Fleetpride. I was afraid they wouldn't shorten an aluminum unit, but they didn't flinch when I called.

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  • IronFreak
    replied
    Inland truck parts?

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    Found a place to shorten my driveshaft for $100. Same day turnaround to boot! Oh yes.

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  • Exodus_2pt0
    replied
    Originally posted by IronFreak
    hood clearance issues with the intake at all?
    I'm not sure. It looks like it will be close, but I won't know until everything else is done.

    Won't be installing the hood until after the first drive.

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  • IronFreak
    replied
    hood clearance issues with the intake at all?

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