COKGBLR goes under the knife

[JCarp90]

Your plate cracks my shit up. I'll be watching this thread.

[Cletonius]

Fronts are in!

[Van Westervelt]

Looking good, you will love the handling. Handling>power I would take a proper coilovers eta over any swapped e30 on H&R type springs.

GC coils on my eta with a chipped crate motor and 2.93 lsd = daily perfection in my opinion.

Glad to see you showing this thing some love!

[Cletonius]

.Glad to see you showing this thing some love!

Thanks man! It's love/hate right now though. Seems like this car is fighting tooth and nail to keep the OE stuff.

I've got the brake line to the rears out and am bending up a new one. Once that's done the fuel tank can go in and then the subframe goes up. I'm waiting on some bolts/gaskets that should've been here today to finish it up. Hopefully I can get all the lines done and I'll be sitting pretty for next weekend.

[Cletonius]

Subframe coming together

[Cletonius]

Rest of the assembly coming this weekend. Got my brake splitter so once this is in I can put the fuel tank and subframe back!

It was dealer only, p/n 34 34 1 111 435. Has since been superceeded to 34 33 1 163 566. It's used in the leveling system on the E38 from what the parts guy said, so either number should get you the right piece.

[Van Westervelt]

What was the reason for replacing the hard lines? And why do you need this part? Not sure what you are doing here exactly.

[F34R]

GC coils on my eta with a chipped crate motor and 2.93 lsd = daily perfection in my opinion.

Glad to see you showing this thing some love!

b27i conversion is honestly perfection with coilovers. Pure love <3 This year marks my first e30 that is not powered by an eta since 2003 when I bought my first 325es. The m30 is truly a beast!

What was the reason for replacing the hard lines? And why do you need this part? Not sure what you are doing here exactly.

That is the brass T divider in the rear that goes to the lines. It is a cheap 'while you're in there' thing to replace with the subframe removed. The hardlines rot out, I did not take a good look but they are only 10 bucks a side prefromed. I did it on my Mother's e30 a year ago, new line from the MC to the rear with a new T and pre made lines with new rubber lines.

[Cletonius]

That is the brass T divider in the rear that goes to the lines. It is a cheap 'while you're in there' thing to replace with the subframe removed. The hardlines rot out, I did not take a good look but they are only 10 bucks a side prefromed. I did it on my Mother's e30 a year ago, new line from the MC to the rear with a new T and pre made lines with new rubber lines.

Bingo. I'm a little sad to find out that prebent lines are $10/side after I bought a flare tool, 25' roll of line and a box of fittings. If I'd known I'd have bought the bent ones and one long one for the rear supply line. I found out Levent sells a kit for $60 with all the hard line needed.

I have the ss braided lines instead of rubber, although after cutting the OE lines they looked like they had a metal weave in them already.

[Van Westervelt]

Ah, I always forget about you guys in the rusty parts. I was just trying to figure out why this was being replaced as nothing in this thread that I saw talked about the lines being rotted out.

[Cletonius]

lol yeah, they were pretty bad. I cut the tee out and had to use a torch to heat every fitting where metal connected to rubber.

You can see the carnage here. Everything in this pic required heat. Even then the bolt that the tee is mounted with snapped off in the body. I drilled it larger and tapped it, just have to make sure it fits through the new tee. I'll probably have to enlarge the hole on the outside portion so I don't weaken the fitting.

[Herr Faust Schinken]

damn thats rusty sorry you have to deal with that, did you do revshift bushings in the back?

[Cletonius]

damn thats rusty sorry you have to deal with that, did you do revshift bushings in the back?

It wasn't too bad, no real corrosion on the structure of the car at all. Only one little spot on the fuel tank mount in the driveshaft tunnel. I sprayed most of a can of rust converter from Eastwood down there and used the same stuff to paint the subframe and trailing arms.

I used revshift 80A for the whole back end. GC told me to use stock rubber M3 cabs so I've got those pressed into the lollipops ready to go.

[Cletonius]

Subframe is all together, just need another quart of diff oil.



I picked up this iso flare tool and made 8 flares and this happened. Going into town tomorrow to see if I can warranty it. :(

[Herr Faust Schinken]

It wasn't too bad, no real corrosion on the structure of the car at all. Only one little spot on the fuel tank mount in the driveshaft tunnel. I sprayed most of a can of rust converter from Eastwood down there and used the same stuff to paint the subframe and trailing arms.

I used revshift 80A for the whole back end. GC told me to use stock rubber M3 cabs so I've got those pressed into the lollipops ready to go.

thats what i went for its great for the street too, my car rides no harder and is no louder than with the stock bushings, i think you will be very happy with them