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E30 S52 Build + Turbo Install

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  • DrLeadFoot
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    Snap is working his magic!!! #ceramiccoating #insideandout

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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  • DrLeadFoot
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    Originally posted by CorvallisBMW View Post
    Awesome pictures, congrats on your marriage!
    Thanks!!

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  • CorvallisBMW
    replied
    Awesome pictures, congrats on your marriage!

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  • DrLeadFoot
    replied
    Some wedding shots of the E30



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  • DrLeadFoot
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    Turned my attention to the grounds. I might take a different approach by making a separate grounding block that connects at the common chassis ground. I'm fearful that I might be overloading some pins by attaching more than one ground wire. Thoughts?

    I still need to wire the coil drivers so there are 6 more grounds there.







    On to the crank signal wires with the shielding. I cut an old cable wire from the ceiling of my basement and cut/pealed the shielding to re-wrap the signal wires after I soldered them.





    Not too pretty but I'll wrap it in electrical tape to clean it up and secure it.




    I need to get some 18 & 20 gauge wire and solder in my coils. Any input on how to ground all these wires would be great. Thanks for looking!

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  • Northern
    replied
    After I posted, I realized that the pre-made MS3 kits don't already have coil drivers, just the circuits. derp. It makes sense now.

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  • DrLeadFoot
    replied
    Originally posted by Northern View Post
    are you planning to switch the BIP373 coil drivers from the MS3 out for the ones from the old bosch DME?

    I'll be using the BMW coil drivers. I have to solder those in today.

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  • Northern
    replied
    are you planning to switch the BIP373 coil drivers from the MS3 out for the ones from the old bosch DME?

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  • DrLeadFoot
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    And they're off!





    First one done! I think this fuel relay one was supposed to be on a relay. I'll figure it out soon enough.





    Got a good chunk started. Also have a lot of questions.



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  • DrLeadFoot
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    This far. The machine over heated twice on him. It was .050 to .060 off.



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  • Good & Tight
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    Originally posted by DrLeadFoot View Post
    My buddy is helping me out and trying to straighten out the Good & Tight manifold.
    That belt sander will deff get it flat. How far out did it get..?

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  • DrLeadFoot
    replied
    My buddy is helping me out and trying to straighten out the Good & Tight manifold.



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  • DrLeadFoot
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    Did a little bit of work on the ECU.





    BMW coils


    Cutting the bottom row of pins on the ECU






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  • Northern
    replied
    2: AFAIK there shouldn't be loctite on ARPs, just their installation lube: http://arp-bolts.com/p/arpultratorque.php

    Did you re-torque the studs after a few heat cycles? Some people recommend this, others say it's not necessary, but it can't hurt.

    Disclaimer: I've never installed 24v ARPs, only M20 stuff, so there may be differences.

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  • DrLeadFoot
    replied
    Cleaned up the carbon build up on the pistons as well as sanding down some detonation marks.



    Before:


    After:



    I also mic'd the ARP2000 head studs:


    If you can't read my want-to-be (real) doctor handwriting it goes a little something like this:

    All numbers start with 114.xx

    ---Front of motor---
    .33 .32

    .48 .37

    .40 .26

    .44 .35

    .42 .43

    .32 .34

    .41 .30
    ---Rear of Motor---

    I have a couple of theories of why the head gasket was leaking.

    1. The bolts stretched due to the tune running super rich and stretching the bolts over time.

    2. There was some red loc-tite on the threads of some of the block threads. I had Kummrow torque down the head so I'm not too sure about how fast they torqued down the bolts. If there was any significant time lapse between installing the head bolts and actually torquing down them down to spec with the use of loc-tite the loc-tite would have hardened up with the bolts just sitting there having gravity pulling them down. Then torquing them down wouldn't be a true torque due to the loc-tite in between the threads.

    3. Does that red ARP torque lube dry and look like red loc-tite? Then back to theory #1.

    4. The bolts were a pain to take out of the block. I needed to use a small pipe wrench to crack them loose. (See theory #2) It took about 25lbs of force to break them loose. To my theory #4, were the bolts tightened down too much making them slightly cock-eyed and when torqued down the force stretched them from the beginning?

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