That sounds like metal rubbing to me. Crank pulley bolts the right size..?
As for the running like crap, might be a timing issue, most likely something simple.
My euro 320i/B6 3.5 Alpina Tribute ( Now with turbo power)
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Have you double checked the cam timing? You can check the seal at the same time, oil in the diz would give it away.
Good luck dude. I'd like to see her run.Leave a comment:
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My euro 320i/B6 3.5 Alpina Tribute the never ending saga
Thats the friggin thing. Ive checked all those and they are tight. Valve cover is tight. Cam seal was installed by VAC, and wouldn't the car be running worse then it is if oil was getting past cam seal? Timing cover was torqued down properly and there is no visible signs of any oil from something that that being loose or not sealed properly.
I was talking with a friend and he suggest I go drive it and see if putting any load on motor will help. He said he's had the vein on afm stick before and cause god awful whistle and that i could of just been feeling air from around the shop when i was feeling by dizzy. We did have doors open and a fan going so its entirely possible i caught a breeze. Should of been thorough and checked it twice though.Leave a comment:
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valve cover gasket?
cam seal?
profile gaskets for the upper timing cover?
there's a pretty limited number of options here. grab your wrenches.Leave a comment:
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This car... Still wont run it refuses to. I got intake boot on while it did seem to idle noticeably smoother. I've realized the whistle is not the air filter its coming from front corner of engine it sounds like and i thoughtI noticed if i held car at 2k the whistle went away. I also could feel air from around the dizzy and cyl 1, but what could be there for vac leak??? . Im so fucking confused with this car. The whistle is 100% the issue it has to be.
Whistle
It also has a tick when i turned it off.
Im about to take this thing to a shop and tell them to fix it. Im tired of messing with this thing.Leave a comment:
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Went and did my smoke test. I got some rubber tubing and poked a hole in a piece of cardboard and then cut the cardboard to the size of the intake boot and then sealed it to the boot with masking tape. Then I lit a swisher and blew in to the hose. What I found is the elbow and hole in the afm boot are cracked/punctured and when putting my hand down to it could feel the air being blown out and see the smoke.
I circled the elbow and boot that are now on order.
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So my TPS was way out of adjustment had zero continuity. I got that down to how it should be and WOW that helped. It idles like a dream now. Still 100rpm high of the 900rpm idle its supposed to have. My only issue now is the original problem has came back. And under light load it dies. I'll let videos do the talking.
And yes i do infact know i have coolant puddle under my car. I didn't get aux fan switch 100% tight. It is now...Last edited by ThatOneEuroE30; 08-03-2016, 06:22 PM.Leave a comment:
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Interesting, hopefully you wont foul the plugs. The surging is usually the ICV kicking open to keep the engine speed from dropping out from too much fuel. I think an O2 would really help you out. Mine ran like shit without it. I'm not entirely familiar with the 1.3 management, but I'm pretty sure it has to be out of open loop to start adapting and adjusting fuel supply.
Just gonna have to wait for my buddy to get his pulled. I bought his Wideband off him since he's parting out his turbo s2k.Leave a comment:
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Interesting, hopefully you wont foul the plugs. The surging is usually the ICV kicking open to keep the engine speed from dropping out from too much fuel. I think an O2 would really help you out. Mine ran like shit without it. I'm not entirely familiar with the 1.3 management, but I'm pretty sure it has to be out of open loop to start adapting and adjusting fuel supply.Its running a little rich because the lack of o2 sensor but m30 in open loop don't really do much. My plugs will look terrible because its only been up to operating temp a couple times. And once the op temp hits the surge came back. But that was before i replace coolant temp sensor. I started it a second time later on and right at beginning it idled perfect but that was only maybe 10 seconds then it surges. Fresh build oil looks great and smell like oil.Leave a comment:
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Def check the TPS. Take a day and test every sensor at ambient and operating temp. When I did all mine I had a bad TPS, coolent temp sensor, O2 sensor, and a dead spot in the AFM.
How's your plugs look? Oil smell like gas? It sounds rich, does the surging go away when it reaches temp?
Its running a little rich because the lack of o2 sensor but m30 in open loop don't really do much. My plugs will look terrible because its only been up to operating temp a couple times. And once the op temp hits the surge came back. But that was before i replace coolant temp sensor. I started it a second time later on and right at beginning it idled perfect but that was only maybe 10 seconds then it surges. Fresh build oil looks great and smell like oil.Leave a comment:

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