phenryiv1's 1989 325iC Project - SETA 2.7i Swap Complete and Running!

[phenryiv1]

So it was time for some creative efforts to get the bumper up about 1/4-3/8" across the back. First step was to remove the brackets and determine how far up the brackets could go without major work. I determined that I was going to be able to get about 1/4" of vertical movement at best. This was due to the fact that while the 2 studs could move up a bit more, at the 1/4" mark the cylinder for the bumper shock would contact the top of the channel in which it rests. To get that movement I was going to have to drill new holes (or slot the existing holes) where the studs go and to sand/file/grind away a lip at the top of the opening to the cavity where the cylinder goes.

Next up I needed to drill some pilot holes.



Enlarge the holes:



Use a round file to slot the holes and a rounded (flat on one side, rounded on the other) file to remove as much material from the top of the opening to the channel so that the channel and the (former) lip are now flush:





At that point I taped/masked it and sprayed the raw metal edges to prevent rust, then re-installed the bumper.



I then used the M6x40 tactic and secured the sides.





And installed:



I then took a stab at re-installing the fiberglass no-name rear apron/valance:







And then I added my paint-matched rear "is" spoiler:

[squidmaster]

Nice color!

[95maxrider]

Get that top installed!

[phenryiv1]

Nice color!

Thank you!

[phenryiv1]

Get that top installed!

I would, if only I could find a shop to do it...

[bradnic]

I had read the posts by bradnic about the install and bought the complete parts list from the thread here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...3&postcount=17

Unfortunately, it was not completely as easy as it sounded in the thread due to the vertical placement of the bumper.

So it was time for some creative efforts to get the bumper up about 1/4-3/8" across the back.

Hey Patrick

Interesting that you had to slot the shock mount holes. I did not need to do that to get the proper bumper height on our car. We spent alot of time trial fitting that bumper to get it perfect height wise..

So I don't understand what's different - maybe the bumper shocks used, or how those shocks were mounted to the bumper itself. Either way the height came out exactly like my 318is coupe..



glad you sorted it out regardless. you did seal all the db bumper trim holes across the rear right?

[arthurmdk]

Wow. Wonderful project man. It looks great! Cant wait to see when you put everything back together! I also have a e30 convertible project Im working on (318i) and its in the paint booth as i type this. so im very exited to get it back ans tart working on it! Great work my friend!! :)

[phenryiv1]

No new progress but I got a call Friday from the shop doing the install on the top. They can take the car first thing Monday morning and should be finished Tuesday evening. Not the first shop I had planned to use but reviews on this shop are very good and they seem a little less flighty than my initial selection.

[phenryiv1]

So bad news...I need some parts from a convertible top frame. Just got a call from the upholstery shop telling me that some small fasteners are missing. I am going by after work to check it out but I am laying the groundwork to source the part(s) in the event that there is not a listing on RealOEM.



Somewhat frustrated as I don't even know what is missing but hopefully I will know more tonight.

On the way to the shop:





Towed with my father's truck since it was rainy and cold and I was not comfortable pulling the car with my Jeep...plus the Comanche is way overdue for its annual oil change and I ran out of time to do it yesterday.

[bradnic]

You might consider sourcing another used top frame instead of trying to find missing hardware - unless it's something simple like screws or the usual replacement parts like top straps or seals.

[phenryiv1]

Supposedly it is small screws or pins. The problem is that the car is literally at the shop now and I don't have a spare top frame nearby and the shop won't house the car while I wait for parts (shop is simply too small).

Heading there in a few minutes to look for myself.

[phenryiv1]

So good news...it was a missing screw that can be installed after the top is in place. Additionally there are 2 dampers that are totally destroyed. I'll have to look into sourcing replacements, but again they can be done after the top is in place.

So...the missing screw is the one pictures here (driver's side is missing):



Some other mid-install pictures:

[phenryiv1]

Looks like I need:
2x 54311932751 (strut)
2x 54311943751 (sleeve)

and one of the following (don't yet know which):
Fillister head screw M6X16 54341394318
Fit bolt M6X0.75X12 54311943732
X=4.8 Y=9.2 Z=10H6
Fit bolt M6X0.75X14 54311943753 $6.35
X=6.7 Y=6.3 Z=10H9
Fit bolt M6X0.75X13 54311943733 $29.09
X=14.6 Y=2.8 Z=10G6
Fit bolt M6X0.75X17.5 54311943731 $42.97
X=6.8 Y=10.2 Z=10H9
Fit bolt M6X0.75X17 54311943747 $1.76
X=4.3 Y=45.2 Z=10H9
Fit bolt M8X1X49.5 2 54311943729 $29.09
X=4.3 Y=39.2 Z=10H9
Fit bolt M8X1X43.5 2 54311943728 $27.27
X=7.7 Y=5.3 Z=8.0
Fit bolt M6X0.75X13 54318134533 $19.87

[bradnic]

The first 2 bits are for the boot lid. you don't need them to replace the top.
rest are metric screws or bolts of various lengths and thread pitches (standard and fine), M6 and M8 size.. don't need bmw parts for those..

[phenryiv1]

The first 2 bits are for the boot lid. you don't need them to replace the top.
rest are metric screws or bolts of various lengths and thread pitches (standard and fine), M6 and M8 size.. don't need bmw parts for those..

Yeah, I noticed that the struts (which are actually springs, according to RealOEM, superseding the gas struts) and sleeves are service parts and can be replaced after the top install. These are not the boot lid parts- I already replaced the ones for the boot lid. These are to assist in the folding/opening of the top itself. According to the guru thread on top replacement ( http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=240865 ) they are called the frame shocks. Here is a picture:



(Sleeve visible at the top, cylindrical shock visible at the bottom.)

Even the missing screw can be replaced after the fact but the top won't fold evenly without that bolt as a guide. If you look at the picture below it shows where it goes:



That is the passenger side- driver's side is missing. It has a threaded shank that catches on the pivoting point and an unthreaded portion that sits in the channel to allow articulation, then a wide head that goes outside the channel piece.

For the time being I can POSSIBLY re-create it with a metric slotted machine screw and a flat/fender washer but I don't know how flat the head has to be to allow the top to fold without that head interfering with something during the folding process.

The parts list above contains ALL of those screws (throughout the top assembly) and identifying which one goes in that specific location may be tough. My best bet is to find someone parting a convertible or a top frame and to try to get the fastener that way. The struts and sleeves are about $80 shipped.