ST1G's s52 OBDII Calypsorot

[Zreberlcoe]

Oh shit haha. So first get a straight valence haha don't try to bend yours back like I tried, it sucks. So I bought a new one and for the chip guard we used like an extremely coarse sandpaper on a pneumatic sander, but a flap disk grinder would have been equivalent. But we used some bondo thinly to cover up the scratches the grinding did. Then he, my friend in which is a painter, used automotive primer and out a good three coats on. Then we sanded the primer smooth and he then laid down some paint. I got the paint from napa an gave them the CalypsoRot-Metallic code which is 252/3 and they mixed up a quart of it. Also gave me reducer, hardner, and the last thing I forgot. But he just got through automotive repair and painting school so he kinda guided me through the prep an laid down the paint with a gun. It costed a good ~$120 for it all plus my labor.

[ST1G]

Oh shit haha. So first get a straight valence haha don't try to bend yours back like I tried, it sucks. So I bought a new one and for the chip guard we used like an extremely coarse sandpaper on a pneumatic sander, but a flap disk grinder would have been equivalent. But we used some bondo thinly to cover up the scratches the grinding did. Then he, my friend in which is a painter, used automotive primer and out a good three coats on. Then we sanded the primer smooth and he then laid down some paint. I got the paint from napa an gave them the CalypsoRot-Metallic code which is 252/3 and they mixed up a quart of it. Also gave me reducer, hardner, and the last thing I forgot. But he just got through automotive repair and painting school so he kinda guided me through the prep an laid down the paint with a gun. It costed a good ~$120 for it all plus my labor.

Good to know, I'd like to know how well the paint holds up. I have a friend who paints but doesn't live by me, I'm sure with a little instructions a little trial and error I can do it. I have access to a gun, compressor, and air/electric tools to grind down the valance. I guess step one is find a minty valance. Thanks for outlining the process for me :up:

[Zreberlcoe]

Oh and we put 5 coats of clear on. So it's holding up insanely well. The lip is bashed from being popped off on curbs, etc.

[lambo]

and also smashed my oil pan on day one

haha noob

[Zreberlcoe]

Lemme guess, the calypso is growing on you by now?

[ST1G]

haha noob

It was kinda embarrassing. I'm super new here though....

Lemme guess, the calypso is growing on you by now?

If you don't like calypso's you're not into e30s.

Well, things are starting to speed up again. I've got a surplus of parts to go onto the car, and a deficit of time to put them on.

Parts waiting to go on:

~55 Watt 5000k H1 HID headlights
~Super bright LED reverse lights
~Oil pan :???:
~Timing belt, water pump, accessory belts
~Red46 Skid plate (it's freaking beautiful, it's not just armor, it's a work of art.)




I've also got another little project going on. I had to run out to the parents to get some tools, and I snuck out to my dads wood shop and got some work done on a project I've been wanting to do for a while.







Purple Heart and Oak. I plan on wiping them down with Linseed oil so the rich color is brought out. Then Lacquer them so they are protected from the sun and elements. Purple Heart also has a tendency to darken if not protected from O2 and heat. As I ripped the Purple Heart you can see where I paused, and the blade burned the wood dark.

Trying to decide how I want to arrange them. I think I'm going to actually mount them under the bars with spacers between the slats and the cross bars, so I can actually get some basket action going.

I'm also tempted to get some longer oak pieces to replace the metal load bars. Oak is plenty strong to support whatever I want to put up there. I don't like how the black plastic load bars look with wood and hardware. I'd rather have wood and recess the hardware.

[Zreberlcoe]

Are we about to have the same damn car? Hahahaha. I have a red46 as well.

[ST1G]

Are we about to have the same damn car? Hahahaha. I have a red46 as well.

Do you have a super shitty driver side fender? If so, than yes! #twinners

[Zreberlcoe]

No... No I don't. But my left rear quarter is in not so good of shape.

[ST1G]

No... No I don't. But my left rear quarter is in not so good of shape.

Whoa, I'll take a bad fender. Fenders are replaceable. I also have a huge dent in the rear, it's pretty bad. Either

[Zreberlcoe]

Yours sounds like it had a rough life.

[ST1G]

Yours sounds like it had a rough life.

Surprisingly, I don't think it did. It was hit in the rear, and the car was pushed into the side of car, which crumpled the driver side fender. Besides those two body issues everything else is in really good shape. The motor runs fantastic.

[Zreberlcoe]

Hmm. Well the body is a hard not to deal with because of how ridiculously expensive it is to fix right.

[ST1G]

Got my oil pan off tonight, man is it dirty under there. The gasket has been leaking about 10 years I'm sure.



Smashed it pretty good.




About 5 pounds of build up on the tranny skid. About 20-25mm thick.




Old pan came out without too much trouble. Took an hour from in the air, to pan out.There was some broken off gasket sucked up against the oil pump screen.



Got the gasket scrapped off the block, and razor bladed smooth and degreased. I went to put the pan I got this week on, and noticed the threads were a little buggered. I moved the oil plug over and noticed that the new pan I have has been re-tapped (poorly) to some new magic size :curse:

So now I'm at an impasse, if the threads weren't so poorly tapped I would just go get a new bolt. But, I'm worried that in a year I'm going to fuck the threads up during an oil change and have to go through all this again.

[ajhostetter]

A pan is cheap. Don't be impatient. Get one that's right. I wouldn't, because I do everything the hard way. But of you're smart, you'll wait for a correct pan. Sorry Stiggy.