So..... this thing done yet?
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1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
1991 318i 4dr slick top
Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
Mtech 2 turbo restoration
Brilliantrot slick top "build" -
Getting there. I put my two weeks in at work today. Should have a solid three weeks here to get it done. I just got a new clutch slave in. It needed to go in before I move forward with other things. My goal is burn outs before the end of the month.
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When you get her done, I want to see it!!:)
looking good,
jmComment
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use the drill side (left) to drill a hole where it's stripped, then use the reverse threaded side to bite into the head and remove it.AWD > RWDComment
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1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
1991 318i 4dr slick top
Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
Mtech 2 turbo restoration
Brilliantrot slick top "build"Comment
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Woahhh what was up with the drivers seat....
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkComment
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I'll figure out the bolts out later. I don't think I'll have this done before I go to Texas next week. I'm trying to get it to breathe before I leave.
So, lots of stuff happening.
Got the engine and transmission in. Drive line bolted up. Went very smothly, except for not knowing I needed and e30 CSB not a e36 one, so I have to snag one. Luckly a mate had one on hand.
Cut out the m50 manifold fins to clear the brake booster. I think it's a e32 booster?
The harness is a little tricky and over whelming at first, but I did a good job of labeling everything for the most part, and the Electrical diagrams in the e36 Bentley pretty much get you the rest of the way there.
Since I had the secondary emissions stuff removed, and I am going to obdI manifold, I figured that I didn't need the oil separator that connects under the OBDII manifold. Since I'm removing it I just connected the ICV to the m50 manifold and intake boot with the s50 vacuum lines. There isn't any other empty ports on the m50 manifold so I assume that means I'm good as far as vacuum goes (I've got the booster vacuum connection and the fuel rail connection and that's it)?
Now, I have a few specific problems. Northern has been helping me in another thread, but here are the main problems.
1. I don't know how to connect the power of the m3 harness into the power of the car. Not sure what I need and what I don't. I might pull the whole harness and pull everything out I don't need. I'm just not 100% on what I don't need and do need at this point.
Photos of the main power connections:
Driver side
Passenger side
2. Seems like with the e32 booster that the e34 throttle cable isn't a ideal set up. The 90* bend makes it kinda twist weird. Not sure if I don't have it set up right, or if I need to use a different cable with that booster. Seems to work okay, I had a mate press the accelerator pedal and it opens the butterfly all the way, and is closed without pedal pressure.
3. I can probably figure this out, but I'm not sure I have a connector for this. I assume it should be down under the manifold from what I wrote on it. But I don't seem to have any unconnected connectors under the manifold.
4. My headers have two ports for o2 sensors, which is great except one is is not going to work, the o2 sensor is too long and it can't fit in there. Since I assume I really do want a reading from both banks of cylinders I should remove that one and move the o2 bung to a spot where an 02 sensor can actually fit?
Any useful links or personal experience would be great. I've spent hours reading, and searching but being the first time I've done anything this complicated with a car I feel vastly lacking in know how.Comment
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If the screw extractors don't work, you could take a dremel with a small cutoff wheel and cut a slit into the top of the bolt so you could take a drive impact with flathead bit to it. That has to get it loose.
One of these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-...Q&gclsrc=aw.dsComment
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