ST1G's s52 OBDII Calypsorot

[ArtFoodBMW]

You can do it Mike!!

[Northern]

Since I had the secondary emissions stuff removed, and I am going to obdI manifold, I figured that I didn't need the oil separator that connects under the OBDII manifold. Since I'm removing it I just connected the ICV to the m50 manifold and intake boot with the s50 vacuum lines.

1. I don't know how to connect the power of the m3 harness into the power of the car. Not sure what I need and what I don't. I might pull the whole harness and pull everything out I don't need. I'm just not 100% on what I don't need and do need at this point.

Driver side


Passenger side



2. Seems like with the e32 booster that the e34 throttle cable isn't a ideal set up. The 90* bend makes it kinda twist weird.

When you delete the cyclone separator/CCV setup, are you running the OBD1 PCV thing with the two hoses in place of it? (Does it fit on the OBD2 valve cover?) I really don't think running the CCV adds any huge complexity (If you have an OBD1 intake boot lying around and weld an oil drain on the e34 dipstick), I made a bracket to bolt it to the block, ran vacuum to one of the ports on the two port OBD1 intake boot (I have ASC-T TB deleted), and the drain back to the dipstick.

For the harness, It looks like you have the E30 starter wire (Big black fucker ) and the E36 Starter wire (big red one) in there. You can use either/or, but you don't need both. There's also a fairly beefy wire in the harness to power the e36 fuse box iirc, and that's not needed either.

For the throttle cable, I didn't end up using the spacer on the booster because I didn't want to pay and wait for all the remote res stuff, so I can't help you there.

[ST1G]

Michaellll beeeel

Oh oh. All the people I've scammed over the years are going to know who I am now.

If the screw extractors don't work, you could take a dremel with a small cutoff wheel and cut a slit into the top of the bolt so you could take a drive impact with flathead bit to it. That has to get it loose.

One of these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-...Q&gclsrc=aw.ds

Great tip, I have an impact already, and a dremel so that's some good info.

You can do it Mike!!

Thanks Ben!

When you delete the cyclone separator/CCV setup, are you running the OBD1 PCV thing with the two hoses in place of it? (Does it fit on the OBD2 valve cover?) I really don't think running the CCV adds any huge complexity (If you have an OBD1 intake boot lying around and weld an oil drain on the e34 dipstick), I made a bracket to bolt it to the block, ran vacuum to one of the ports on the two port OBD1 intake boot (I have ASC-T TB deleted), and the drain back to the dipstick.

For the harness, It looks like you have the E30 starter wire (Big black fucker ) and the E36 Starter wire (big red one) in there. You can use either/or, but you don't need both. There's also a fairly beefy wire in the harness to power the e36 fuse box iirc, and that's not needed either.

For the throttle cable, I didn't end up using the spacer on the booster because I didn't want to pay and wait for all the remote res stuff, so I can't help you there.

I'm not really opposed to running it. Just seemed like with the m50 manifold that removing it was cheaper than buying the $190 hose kit, and I couldn't get a good feel on how people were running them without the kit. So I just removed it and did the following:

I used the OBDI hoses that connect to the ICV. I ran one to the intake manifold, and the other to the intake boot. There was a small vacuum nipple on the U shaped one that ran to the manifold so I plugged the hole. I am using a two port OBDI intake boot, with the ASC-T TB deleted as well.

I saw that on M50's the hose from the top of the manifold gasket normally runs to the intake boot. However the second hole of my intake boot is being used for air temp sensor so that's not an option. Seems like a lot of people just use a catch can. I might just do that.



Looking through the m3 electrical diagrams it's challenging to know which red wire is which. Was the fuse box on the right or left side in e36s? I would hate to remove one that I need, putting it back in would probably be a bitch. I'm thinking about pulling the harness again and trying to remove everything I don't need.

[ST1G]

Alright, I think I got the harness cut down a little bit. This thread was very helpful.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=311372

I'm trying to figure out how to remove all the SAP stuff. Seems that I can remove the relay and all the wires associated but I need to make sure I get them all or I can short the ground. Or at least that's according to Dave.

[ST1G]

I hate posting over an over again, but it's my thread so what the hell.

So I have everything wired in except for the oil pressure sender unit. I didn't think that would matter for getting the car started.

I put everything together and attempted to start the car. I get lights (and a check engine light) inside the car. I don't get cranking of any kind. I hear the fuel pump run abnormally loud, and squirt fuel from a hard to soft line connection at the rear. This makes me think that I have the fuel lines connected to the fuel rail backwards, but it could be the soft line back there has just deteriorated over the last 9 months of sitting.

As far as not going cranking goes, I am getting 12.5v to the center post of the starter. I don't know if maybe my battery is a bit low and needs charged or not.

I have continuity between the frame of the car and the motor, I checked that and I think I'm good.

Do I need to pull the intake off and verify the connections at the other two terminals of the starter?

[2002jm]

check fuses

Know you have done this, but I would check all the fuses and charge up the battery. Some of the chargers have a 50 amp start mode...I have one if you want to try it:).
Do you have an amp meter in the car?
jm

[bangn]

I also read a torch should help in the tight areas. ST!G, have you tried that? I suppose I'll have some better real world experience and ideas once I actually get started on mine...

can also attest to this, I used a paint scraper and it just falls off. If you let it set hard again it just flicks out with a screwdriver as well.

The pyro in me liked to see how much fire I had the courage to make before I went "shit shit"

[ST1G]

Know you have done this, but I would check all the fuses and charge up the battery. Some of the chargers have a 50 amp start mode...I have one if you want to try it:).
Do you have an amp meter in the car?
jm

The starter should crank even with fuses blown I believe. I don't have a 50 amp start setting on my charger. I'm just charging it over night.

I don't have an amp meter in the car.

[Northern]

I would double check the starter wiring for sure.

[Northern]

and make sure those lines are on the right way. I can't remember which one under the car is the feed and which is the return, but worst case, you could trace the feed from the fuel filter under the car.

[2002jm]

relay

If you have a relay controlling the starter?, check that. Otherwise, I would check all connections to be sure they are tight. I have had connections to the battery do the same thing...full charged battery buy no crank.
jm

[ST1G]

and make sure those lines are on the right way. I can't remember which one under the car is the feed and which is the return, but worst case, you could trace the feed from the fuel filter under the car.

I would double check the starter wiring for sure.

Thanks for all your help. I didn't check the connections, but I charged the battery overnight. It started right up after bolting in the battery and swapping the fuel lines. I did have them backwards. I'll probably have a few more questions here soon.

If you have a relay controlling the starter?, check that. Otherwise, I would check all connections to be sure they are tight. I have had connections to the battery do the same thing...full charged battery buy no crank.
jm

Battery wasn't charged enough.


It started up! Now I have wires to verify what they do and remove if they are indeed not needed, and get all the other shit back onto the car. I doubt I'll have it done before I leave on Thursday. I have finals this week.

[2002jm]

:)

Good work, glad it started for you. Will be looking forward to the next phase at the end of the summer:)
jm

[Northern]

Awesome, looking good. Maybe that first start will be a bit of motivation to work on mine, haha.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

So is this thing doing epic burnouts yet?