ST1G's s52 OBDII Calypsorot

[e30austin]

The tortoise and the tortoise

Whatever tortoise is yours, is the one that will lose.

[ST1G]

Whatever tortoise is yours, is the one that will lose.

You nailed it mate.

[ArtFoodBMW]

Any updates yet? Picnic is closing in

[ST1G]

First, second start. Thanks ArtFoodBMW for the help. Making progress.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99H_oH7h-J0

EDIT: Is YouTube embedding not working any longer?

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Did know this thing was still around lol

[ST1G]

Did know this thing was still around lol

Haha still a thing. It's just been on the back burner.

[ST1G]

Welp, I drove her for the first time in years.

https://youtu.be/_z1Q8iCdr28

I got her together enough to drive. I found right away that I have a few issues.

First, I am running a e32 booster and rx7 brakes. Apparently the booster is being pressed slightly by the brake pedal. I started driving it and noticed that the car was struggling to go when I got to 4th gear. Turns out the brakes are much stronger than the engine

Second, the car is running hot. I thought that maybe it was due to the extra stress of the car fighting the brakes, but it seemed to persist after I pulled back the brake pedal. The car has new: Water pump, T-stat, BMW coolant, and e30 sensor. The coolant hoses both didn't feel very hot, but when I squeeze them I can see the coolant in the reservoir move.

Third poly bushings are quite rough.


I have been reading up a little about the e32 booster and It seems that no one talks about needing to modify it, so I don't know if I need to shorten the shaft or what. I don't' recall if it's threaded and maybe just needs screwed in more?

As far as the overheating I'm really unsure of where to start. I'm not sure if it's an incorrect reading on the dash, or what. I've never seen a brand new water pump fail, and the radiator was working fine when it was servicing the m20 before. I guess the T-stat could be stuck closed?


Any advice on where to start would be superb.

[ArtFoodBMW]

Welcome back ST1G,

Could the heat issue be air bubbles in the system? If the system wasn't bled, that could be a big problem. I would also turn the heater on and see if you lose coolant to the heater core, and see if using the heater adjusts the temp at all.

Harshness of ride quality can often be correlated with solid trans bushings. I have OE rubber under my trans, but solid in the engine. I like mine.

[e30austin]

Did you bolt the e32 booster directly to the firewall or did you use the shim that should be used? If so, you need to shorten the rod.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Welp, I drove her for the first time in years.

https://youtu.be/_z1Q8iCdr28

I got her together enough to drive. I found right away that I have a few issues.



First, I am running a e32 booster and rx7 brakes. Apparently the booster is being pressed slightly by the brake pedal. I started driving it and noticed that the car was struggling to go when I got to 4th gear. Turns out the brakes are much stronger than the engine



Second, the car is running hot. I thought that maybe it was due to the extra stress of the car fighting the brakes, but it seemed to persist after I pulled back the brake pedal. The car has new: Water pump, T-stat, BMW coolant, and e30 sensor. The coolant hoses both didn't feel very hot, but when I squeeze them I can see the coolant in the reservoir move.



Third poly bushings are quite rough.





I have been reading up a little about the e32 booster and It seems that no one talks about needing to modify it, so I don't know if I need to shorten the shaft or what. I don't' recall if it's threaded and maybe just needs screwed in more?



As far as the overheating I'm really unsure of where to start. I'm not sure if it's an incorrect reading on the dash, or what. I've never seen a brand new water pump fail, and the radiator was working fine when it was servicing the m20 before. I guess the T-stat could be stuck closed?





Any advice on where to start would be superb.

So when I took my car for the first drive my brakes locked up as well. I didn’t get the 944 booster shaft shorted enough and when i was trying to limp home it was over heating. Even though you aren’t pressing the brake pedal it is still creating drag on the rotors causing the engine to work harder. You likely don’t have any issue for overheating its just the engine was working to hard even with the pedal no pressed down. I shortened my shaft and all the issue went away and I’ve put 3-400 miles on the car. Try shimming on shortening you booster shaft and you should be good.

[ST1G]

Sounds like I need to shorten the rod :D Thanks guys.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Sounds like I need to shorten the rod :D Thanks guys.

Its a trial and error process so do a little at a time. And make sure you put a die on it before cutting so you can unthread it off after the cut and straighten out the threads that get buggered from cutting.

[ST1G]

Its a trial and error process so do a little at a time. And make sure you put a die on it before cutting so you can unthread it off after the cut and straighten out the threads that get buggered from cutting.

That's great advice. Any idea how much needs to come off?

[ThatOneEuroE30]

That's great advice. Any idea how much needs to come off?

There is not really a set amount. What i did was measure the stock e30 booster rod and shaved mine down as close as i could to that length.

[ST1G]

There is not really a set amount. What i did was measure the stock e30 booster rod and shaved mine down as close as i could to that length.

Hmmm. I don't have my stock booster anymore. I'll have to find one to measure.