E30 #2: 1990 Delphin: RHD ITB M20

[318aye]

fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu I love that sound. I also love the way you document everything. 174whp isnt too shabby.

Thanks! Message boards used to actually be a place where you could get information. I want to contribute to that.

Happy with the power, that was roughly what I was expecting to make. The car lost power with timing increases, so this is where she'll sit until I get into a cam or an airbox.

WOW THAT SOUND. DEAD haha

Haha thanks.

wow that sounds sooo sick. Props dude

Thanks. I scrolled through, but can't find any info on your nitrous setup. Care to share? LQ9 is a great choice.

one of my trumpets came loose as well, also my red coloring has very much faded to pink and silver :(

Sorry to hear that :-(. I think mine have far less hours on them, but they're haven't faded yet. I think gold would look pretty slick in your bay too.

Last numbers I saw you post were 187/170. Is the main difference in our setups the cam? (aside from COP conversion)

both the looks of engine bay and engine sound are tits, that's a good dyno result to and you saw the same thing i saw and "dyno4mance" on e30tech re the socks, time to move to a airbox. im not sure what % of the cross section area gets blocked by those screens

check you haven't over tightened the trumpets yielding them, its not hard to do, ask me how i know...... a smidge of quality silicone type adhesive between the clamp and outer face like sikaflex helps keep things attached if they loosen a bit. ive had them loosen and rattle around in my airbox previously but they have have sweet for ages now

Darn, I was hoping you would have some insight into mesh density so I could get an educated starting point for these screen filters. Still very interested to test my theory on filters farther into the trumpet "path" not disturbing the velocity stack effects.

On your airbox design, how much of the trumpet length do you think you retained by rotating the trumpets? Probably time to revisit your thread.

Good call on the adhesive. I didn't crank that hard (was only a 2" long allen key) but I'll check and make sure they're still happy. Thinking about ordering a spare set just in case, and to replace the #1 trumpet that I nicked into with the hood.

[digger]

both the looks of engine bay and engine sound are tits, that's a good dyno result to and you saw the same thing i saw and "dyno4mance" on e30tech re the socks, time to move to a airbox. im not sure what % of the cross section area gets blocked by those screens

check you haven't over tightened the trumpets yielding them, its not hard to do, ask me how i know...... a smidge of quality silicone type adhesive between the clamp and outer face like sikaflex helps keep things attached if they loosen a bit. ive had them loosen and rattle around in my airbox previously but they have have sweet for ages now

[kamotors]

one of my trumpets came loose as well, also my red coloring has very much faded to pink and silver :(

[bmk]

wow that sounds sooo sick. Props dude

[ncrmtrsprtsE30]

WOW THAT SOUND. DEAD haha

[2mAn]

fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu I love that sound. I also love the way you document everything. 174whp isnt too shabby.

[318aye]

Had fun on the dyno today. Big thanks to the guys at National Speed (Full disclosure, I used to work there). Vlad got the car dialed in quickly, and improved idle quality and driveability significantly. The car made 174 whp / 169 wtq, but here's the kicker: only with the filters off.

With the filters on, power dropped to roughly 152 whp. Back to back pulls, all in 4th gear, similar IAT's. Car was not allowed to cool down excessively. If that isn't a death knell for the Ramair filters, I don't know what is. Currently figuring out how I'm going to go to a screen filter setup. I think the key is to avoid anything that disrupts the effect of the velocity stacks (i.e. flat filter elements across the trumpet mouth). I think this applies to both screens and foam. I also had a trumpet come loose today, found it in the bay after a short drive. I really thought I had tightened everything appropriately, but I guess the clamps expanded after the heating, cooling, expanding, etc of a 4 hour drive and then dyno session. Tighten your trumpet clamps! I'm also super paranoid about backfiring into the filter socks and starting a fire. +1 more reason for screen filters.

First thing I plan to try will be like the link below. I'll make gaskets with a laser cutter, and use screen inserts. These should be where the flow is already laminar and kill less power. I'm going to get on the same dynojet that I got the baseline numbers from back home to verify the filter tweaks I make before the Vintage. Will document changes and power results. Will also get a baseline vs. final graph overlay from that dyno as well, maybe later in the week.

http://forums.club4ag.com/zerothread?id=65539

1st through 4th gear pull:

https://www.facebook.com/NationalSpeed/videos/vb.142284982525912/835232619897808/?type=2&theater&notif_t=video_comment

[318aye]

Replaced the ECU coolant temp sensor today. Took what were 15 degree temp swings down to 2-3 degree. Enough to stop affecting the fueling. Roughed in the map more. I think we're ready for the dyno (knock on internet). Cranked on the return spring roughly another 20 or 30 degrees. Throttle return can still use work, but it's more consistent now. Couldn't get to the TPS to back off the hardware. May experiment with that more later. Better lighting for the bay shot.

[318aye]

Replied.

[rzerob]

I pm'd you.

[318aye]

New coolant temp sensors on the way. In case anyone's curious:

Motronic 1.1, 1.3
Coolant temperature sender - blue, 2 pin (13621357414) This is the fuel injection ECU sender.
Coolant temperature sender - brown, 1 pin (12621710512) This is the gauge sender.

Pulled from a diagnostic thread. We'll see if this sorts out the erratic temp signal issues. There will be much fiddling with grounds if not.

Going to try and test fit one of the garagistic strut bars here locally in a few days. Hoping to get some measurements if it fits and see if the M3 harness covers will fit too.

[digger]

I assumed this was probably the cause. Good thing the TPS is now buried into the firewall . I'll try backing it off a bit and see if it changes the idle return performance once the motor is hot.

you should try accessing it with an airbox....

i still ended up using a additional return spring but backing it off helped some. the newer TB have a circlip to locate the shaft axially so the problem is lesser

[318aye]

when you slide the TPS on if its a tight fit onto the shaft then as you tighten the bolts the bolts it will impart a tiny bit of axial thrust load into the shaft as the bolts "pull" the TPS hard against the body a fraction compressing the o-ring. this depends on the tps and how snug the D fits and if there is an o-ring. if you loosen the tps bolts a bit usually the friction goes away. sometimes the TPS may not also not be perfectly flat so it trys to bind the shaft in which case you can shim it with a piece of feeler gauge or ultra thin material. i had good success in only tightening the bolts very slightly and using a tiny bit of loctitie

I assumed this was probably the cause. Good thing the TPS is now buried into the firewall . I'll try backing it off a bit and see if it changes the idle return performance once the motor is hot.

[digger]

The only bank that doesn't feel 100% fluid is 5-6. Once the TPS was installed, it felt a little sticky at 98% shut. I'm not sure what else to do about this aside from adding more return force :(

when you slide the TPS on if its a tight fit onto the shaft then as you tighten the bolts the bolts it will impart a tiny bit of axial thrust load into the shaft as the bolts "pull" the TPS hard against the body a fraction compressing the o-ring. this depends on the tps and how snug the D fits and if there is an o-ring. if you loosen the tps bolts a bit usually the friction goes away. sometimes the TPS may not also not be perfectly flat so it trys to bind the shaft in which case you can shim it with a piece of feeler gauge or ultra thin material. i had good success in only tightening the bolts very slightly and using a tiny bit of loctitie

[318aye]

Damn, that engine bay looks sweet.

Thanks! Once I get these sensor issues dealt with, hopefully it will drive as good as it looks.

Check to make sure it is not actually hanging or binding on anything to make sure its just lack of return spring force that is the issue.

i added a linear spring on the main lever that the throttle cable pulls on to give the pedal a nice meaty feel and ensure that the throttles return hard up against the stops. My version didn’t have the torsion spring on the idle shaft though, there was only a torsion spring on the 5&6 body.

The only bank that doesn't feel 100% fluid is 5-6. Once the TPS was installed, it felt a little sticky at 98% shut. I'm not sure what else to do about this aside from adding more return force :(

Looks great Daniel! I cant wait to hear it in a few weeks. Isnt it possible to shave down the intake manifold mount on the valve cover to give you a cleaner look?

Thanks Dan! I believe you can shave that mount, it is solid all the way through. PITA to Reward ratio was too high for me though. I think I wouldn't be able to mill it flat very cleanly, and it might show even after powdercoat. I'll live with it :D